Members morpha2 Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 I'm work on a parts p-bass. Drilled the neck last night, but I'm not sure if I'm happy with the fit yet. In case I want to try again, what's the best way to fill the drill holes on the heel? Wood glue and some toothpicks? I figure there's gotta be a more sophisticated way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mike42 Posted June 22, 2009 Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 Never had that issue, but I wouldn't use toothpicks on a neck mount hole. You'll probably need to drill the holes and dowel them. Unfortunately drilling an accurate hole in a dowel is much more difficult than drilling in neck wood. I think the real solution is to be very careful in the first place on this job. I would try to use at least 2 or 3 of the holes your already have. Somebody else may have a better answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members morpha2 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Members Share Posted June 22, 2009 Just thinking out loud--I wonder if it would be smarter/easier to dowel the holes in the pocket of the body and re-drill there using the neck holes as a guide? The neck is on there nice and straight, but there's maybe and 1/8th inch gap between the heel of the neck and the back of the pocket...maybe it's not even a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mike42 Posted June 23, 2009 Members Share Posted June 23, 2009 I'd probably be inclined to work with the body holes, especially if you're using a fender type back plate that will distribute the pressure. If fact, assuming you're using a backing plate and the neck is straight, you may not need to do anything but ream the body holes enough to drop the neck back to where it needs to be. Worst case, you might have to put a piece of sandpaper or something under the plate to lock it in place. String tension is going to keep the neck pulled down into the body. edit: if you do it this way I would use a small round rasp, or something similar, to just elongate the holes. If you drill them out to drop the neck down you're going to have to take out a whole bunch of wood - you don't want to remove any more than you have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members RockStringBendr Posted June 23, 2009 Members Share Posted June 23, 2009 I would seriously consider opening the holes up and doweling them with hardwood (maple if you can find it in sticks) and premium wood glue. I've had to dowel a few necks over the years when assembling mutts and you really don't want to alter the body and plate orientation. When you go to set it up after the repair get a large c-clamp and some paint stir sticks for protecting the fretboard and plate and clamp the neck into position and then string the top and bottom strings on so you can adjust the neck set before re-drilling. The strings will guide you to exactly where you want those holes. Also put a piece of tape or mark the drill bit with some paint to give yourself a depth gauge on the pilot holes. I went through the fretboard on one years ago and I would have strangled myself for being so stupid if I wasn't such a forgiving person Good luck on the project. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted June 23, 2009 Members Share Posted June 23, 2009 My vote goes with string bendr. You can get hardwood dowels at Lowe's, Homeboy's, Harbor Freight or just about anywhere. You just have to be careful when cutting them flush. Opening up the body holes is much easier though. Put the outside strings on before you do anything. If you have a side to side alignment issue, neck hole doweling is about the only option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members morpha2 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Members Share Posted June 23, 2009 About doweling the neck holes, what diameter would you recommend for maximum stability in case I end up re-drilling right next to or over them? Also, I did some googling last night and read that too much glue can cause cracks in the neck when it dries and expands? Is that possible with a maple neck, or more like a rare case of really excessive over-gluing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members morpha2 Posted June 26, 2009 Author Members Share Posted June 26, 2009 ^^^bump for additional opinions? I'm probably going to attempt the fix Friday or Saturday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted June 26, 2009 Members Share Posted June 26, 2009 I wouldnt mess with the doweling crap unless the holes are way off. Heres a better solution. You can use threaded wood inserts like these. http://www.ezlok.com/InsertsWood/hardWood.html or these. http://www.woodworkingparts.com/parts/brass_inserts.html You can actually pick up them up at Home Depot and other hardware stores and size up the machine screws thet will be used at the same time. The hole that is drilled for the anchor will usually remove the bad hole unless the bad holes are off a whole lot. The neck winds up being held in place much better than wood screws do and you can get it tighter because machine screw threads that fit inside these anchors tighten more gradually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted June 27, 2009 Members Share Posted June 27, 2009 If you do go with inserts, go with stainless as the brass inserts can be tough to screw in without phucking them up. I also prefer to drill the hole one size bigger than recommended & glue them in place. With maple, 2 things can happen if you don't do this. 1) you split the wood. 2) you spread the wood around the insert and the neck won't fit back into the neck pocket of the guitar/bass. But done right this is the best way to go. I just find it to be too much of a pain in the arse. BTW they're available @ Ace Hardware & other fine establishments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members morpha2 Posted July 10, 2009 Author Members Share Posted July 10, 2009 Okay, I've finally got some time to attempt this fix. Thanks for your suggestions, I'm going to try to locate some stainless steel inserts this afternoon. How long should the insert be for a stable connection to the neck? 1/2" More? Thanks again, guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lUserName Posted July 10, 2009 Members Share Posted July 10, 2009 Mighty Putty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted July 10, 2009 Members Share Posted July 10, 2009 I think the inserts are a standard length. You'll need machine screws as well. I recommend taking one of your neck wood screws with you and go to a true value or do it best store. They almost always have someone that can help you. Lowe's & Home Depot it's a crap shoot in that respect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bvr775 Posted July 14, 2009 Members Share Posted July 14, 2009 as someone whos dealt with the threaders before all i can say use a dowel rod. they can and usually do split the wood at the bottom holes when you start threading them. i bad about bending the necks because i didnt learn with a tremolo so ive had to do the repair quite a few times because i strip the bottom screws out of a neck on maple necks..they just dont make em like they ust to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members tedmich Posted July 16, 2009 Members Share Posted July 16, 2009 +1 on not liking the threaded inserts, unless you are set up for production on these the chances of splitting the neck, putting it in crooked or breaking them in the neck are too great, and you have to drill out a huge hole to install them. I'd carefully drill out with a forstner (flat bottomed) bit in a drill press and tap in good quality hardwood dowel (not a dowel pin, I like hardrock maple) lubed with titebond 2 wood glue, or a urethane glue (gorilla) if you like cleaning up when it dries. I install the dowel completely and leave it protruding. I then cut it flush with a flex saw and plane or a Wagner Safe-T-Planer if I am in a hurry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members reesord Posted July 18, 2009 Members Share Posted July 18, 2009 I'm not necessarily supporting or suggesting this route for filling in the holes in the neck, but I've actually filled some by taking golf tees, putting them in, cutting them flush, and then redrilling holes that lined up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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