Gettin Strung

[Eppito]

I brought my Seagull S12+ to a repairmain to have medium strings put on and a neck adjustment. I'll be playing in low tunings, of course. Given all that, what should I be watchful of in the guitar's care and feeding in the future?

[kwakatak]

I'm not sure what the bracing is like on Seagulls, but if they're at all similar to Martin's bracing I'd watch for:

 

- belly developing on the top between the bridge and the endpin

 

- a crack or obvious separation between the bridge and the top

 

- a crack developing between the heel of the neck and the body

 

- an indentation around the soundhole, either between the bridge and the soundhole or a dip in the fretboard from the 14th fret down to the soundhole

 

My guitar had/has these problems but it took quite some time and neglect on my part to develop, so if you're anticipating problems it's a good bet that none of this will ever get as far along. Keeping your guitar tuned down a half-step, using light gauge strings, keeping it properly hydrated at a comfortable temperature should ensure that many of these problems never happen at all.

[Eppito]

kwakatak, you're giving me the creeps.

 

Seriously, I will be as observant as possible once I get the Gull back. Still, I'd much rather use mediums to enhance the sound of the 12er. A number of my favorite players use mediums in their set up. If I get to be any good on the 12, I might seriously consider an upgrade to a Guild F512, with a double truss rod in the neck it should keep things pretty solid.

[Freeman Keller]

Eppito,

 

What kwakatak says is true - those are the areas most commonly affected on 12 strings, as well as a general change in the neck angle and action. However your Seagull should be designed and braced (and warranted) for concert tuning with lights. From the string tension chart we can see that that is somewhere between 260 and 300 pounds of force on the bridge (different manufactures "lights" have different gauge strings). The tension given for a medium set two half steps down (D) is 291 pounds - right in the middle. My feeling is that your guitar is within specifcations and should be covered by your warranty.

 

If you look inside a 12 string you will see very similar bracing to a six, yet the top has half again as much tension. Is it no wonder there are so many structural problems. My 25 y.o. Martin not only needed a neck set, but had a substantial belly in the lower bout and the bridge was slightly loose. It has been in my care for over 15 of those years and has always had either mediums or lights and almost always tuned down, yet still developed the problems.

 

You are doing what you can and I think you will be fine. I have had good luck tuning down with lights on mine - that would be really safe.

[Eppito]

The devil lurks in the details, always. Thank you both for all this useful info on the 12er. I do have some apprehensions, but I feel compelled to give the mediums a try.

 

I have six guitars and they all have their peculiarities, and I knew once I took on the 12er I would really have a guitar to be concerned about.

 

BTW, the only other acoustic I have is a Gibson Mark 35, which is, for all practical purposes - tonally dead. It's history is interesting and I may post about it at some point.

 

Again, guys, I will take everything you've said very seriously in the care of the Seagull.

[Alumitone]

 

Originally posted by kwakatak I'm not sure what the bracing is like on Seagulls, but if they're at all similar to Martin's bracing

 

More like square Larrivee's. I'd be carefull putting Mediums on a Seagull, the top being rather thin. Maybe the 12-string Seagulls have a thicker top than their 6 string models, but the tension being larger I'd be extra careful and keep an eye out for what ever might happen.

 

I have experience of bridges partly comming lose with time on Seagulls, I'd try and slide a sheet of paper in between the bridge and top at the belly and see how far in I can go as an indicator.

 

The Seagull being made in Canada and mostly from laminates it's very rugged and wheather resistant, but do check the neckjoint should any gap develop.

 

Obviously the Cedar variety is more sensitive than the Spruce one, but in all it's a great guitar!

[ESL94]

I have a M12 - @ the guitar shop where I got it from, they told me that it would be a good idea to stay away from putting on mediums, & stick w/the lights strings. It would be more stress on the neck angle and action - it was made for light strings.

Alumitone, Freeman Keller, & kwakatak - thanks for info. (this being my 1st / 12 string).