Members Bignasty006 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted March 16, 2012 I'd have to see the back baffle to see what ya got. Sometimes you can just cut holes in it to provide more airflow.Or maybe replace it with a piece of heavy screen type material. As long as you have a bit of airflow a fan shouldn't be necessary. Seems like you have some plywood left. Maybe make a new one and cut holes for your fan/s? [ATTACH=CONFIG]343759[/ATTACH]This is what I'm working with. http://likestuff.globat.com/Gateway_i7/fba08a-1%2080mm%20case%20fan%20side%20panel%20cut%20out%20diagram%20dimensions%20cutout%20template.gifThis is the dimensions of the fan I was going to put in. The depth of it is 25.5mm = 1.07in.(or something close to that.) After adding that to the 1/8in. baffle, they would be like maybe another 1/8in. passed the tubes. Is there just a kind of vent I could mount on a cutout in the baffle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted March 16, 2012 Members Share Posted March 16, 2012 The top of the baffel is open, thats all you need. Google up any fender combo and you'll see the same thing. So long as the top is open like that you have a convection air flow up from the speaker area up acrpss the tubes and it vents through that opening thats maybe an inch. If you want more cit to oval openings about 4" long on each end. Take a look at these. http://www.unclespot.com/BackPanels.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bignasty006 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Members Share Posted March 16, 2012 The top of the baffel is open, thats all you need. Google up any fender combo and you'll see the same thing. So long as the top is open like that you have a convection air flow up from the speaker area up acrpss the tubes and it vents through that opening thats maybe an inch. If you want more cit to oval openings about 4" long on each end. Take a look at these. http://www.unclespot.com/BackPanels.html Aight I'll just leave it how it is. if I don't feel safe ill just put a fan on it. off topic, but what can i spray on my reverb tank to stop rust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted March 16, 2012 Members Share Posted March 16, 2012 Wipe it down with WD40. WD 40 was designed by the military as a moisture inhibitor to prevent rust. it was used on weapons a gear for years before being made available to the public. Kuts put a good amount on a rag, wipe it down and let it dry. On the venting, you can buy something like these.http://www.thevintagesound.com/store/cabinet-hardware-grills-c-145_211.htmlyou should be able to find simular vented grll at Home depot in sheets and just cut it to size, or get something like this that could be stapled to the inside http://www.twpinc.com/wire-mesh/TWPCAT_1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Terry Allan Hall Posted March 17, 2012 Members Share Posted March 17, 2012 Thanks man! =) Bought some "python" tolex...one of these days I'm going re-do my Peavey like this dude did his combo. If it goes well, I may cover a couple of guitar cases, next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted March 17, 2012 Members Share Posted March 17, 2012 If you're really concerned about the heat, you could get a 2" hole saw or something close and just cut some holes in it. Makes it a bit difficult to tolex your panel, but it's doable.But I'm with WRG on this one, meaning I wouldn't bother with holes. Cut about 1" off the bottom of that panel and you have plenty of cooling and protection.I must admit some holes would look cool, pun intended. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bignasty006 Posted March 17, 2012 Author Members Share Posted March 17, 2012 Bought some "python" tolex...one of these days I'm going re-do my Peavey like this dude did his combo. If it goes well, I may cover a couple of guitar cases, next. Oh that is sexy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Bignasty006 Posted March 17, 2012 Author Members Share Posted March 17, 2012 If you're really concerned about the heat, you could get a 2" hole saw or something close and just cut some holes in it. Makes it a bit difficult to tolex your panel, but it's doable. But I'm with WRG on this one, meaning I wouldn't bother with holes. Cut about 1" off the bottom of that panel and you have plenty of cooling and protection. I must admit some holes would look cool, pun intended. I played it for about an hour the other day. With the new tubes, not even NEAR as hot as it was, but I'm not concerned anymore because I received some heartbreaking news during the weekend. . . A guy that I'm good friends with and used to play music with(a damn good drummer), his wife has pancreatic cancer that has spread to her liver. I've decided to donate the amp in the auction to raise money for her treatment. I'm going to finish up the grill cloth this coming week, throw some castors on it and say good-bye. Someone else can use it more than I. I hope it raises quite a bit of money for her. I still got my Dual Recto to wank on Off subject...I've created a facebook page that I'm uploading all my project pictures to. Pass by if you have time and look at my pics. I'll be starting a build on a 2x12 cab and a refurbish on 2 4x10 cabs this coming week. Thanks for all the advice on this amp build. https://www.facebook.com/KadesMusicGarage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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