Members WolfBoy Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 Hi, I'm relatively new at guitars in general so I apologize if this is a stupid question.... So I've found a new, nice budget acoustic (Samick OM-7) that I like and am pretty close to pulling the trigger on it. But I had noticed that the bridge pins on several of these guitars were quite high. I asked the salesman about it and he simply pushed them back in, saying that they might have just lifted due to pressure. So, first question, is this indicative of anything else? Or maybe the guy that set them up just didn't push 'em down all the way? Second, I also noticed that the strings are biting into the bridge as they break toward the saddle. This is not even happening on my super-cheap, plastic-backed acoustic. So, again, is this a problem as well? Or also a setup issue? Any thoughts? I like this guitar a lot but don't want to pick it up if it's already got issues Thanks in advance for any advice! Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 Hi Steve and welcome Two good questions - here are a couple of quick answers. First, bridge pins are tapered and have a slot in the side for the string to come out. Properly done, the bridge will also be tapered and the pin will fit snugly in the hole. It does not have to be pushed down hard to be seated, it is the wedging action of the ball of the string that holds the pin in. It is not uncommon for pins to stand a little tall in the hole and a good repair person can lightly ream the hole (with the correct reamer) to make it fit better. I consider this part of a good setup, but it needs to be done carefully - if the hole is made too big the pin will be loose. Note that new Martins ship from the factory with their pins standing a little tall so your guitar is in good company. It is possible that the balls of the string did pull the pins up as the guitar was tuned, I don't think this is a problem unless the salesman really crammed them into their holes. The second part of your question is that as the string exits the pin hole it needs to have the correct angle as it goes over the saddle. The saddle is acting as a fulcrum for the string to pull (actually kind of rock) the top - it needs some leverage to do this. The bridge should have a little ramp cut in the wood to make this happen, here is a well ramped bridge If yours looks like this it has no problems at all. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members denvertrakker Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 Freeman: I'm trying to grasp what he's asking, and what your answer is. I looked at your picture and can't quite see what you're demonstrating. Are we talking about a ramp cut into the bridge between the pins and the saddle? I think that's the question and answer, but I looked at mine and can't really see where the strings bite into the wood - they just kind of exit the hole and head right for the saddle. Admittedly, my saddle is a bit high (planning on tackling that after I do the classical), but still...are there tiny impressions in the wood adjacent to the pins that I just can't see because the strings are in the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarist21 Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 I think that's the question and answer, but I looked at mine and can't really see where the strings bite into the wood - they just kind of exit the hole and head right for the saddle. I think that some guitars have this issue and some don't. My guitars are spilt about 50/50, it seems. Some strings go right through the bridge (this is true on some of my lower-action Gibson LG-) and others go nowhere near the bridge (like on the higher action of my Epi Masterbilt). Ellen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members DeepEnd Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 . . . Are we talking about a ramp cut into the bridge between the pins and the saddle? I think that's the question and answer, but I looked at mine and can't really see where the strings bite into the wood - they just kind of exit the hole and head right for the saddle. . . . The bridge in Freeman's photo is indeed ramped. Most guitar bridges, especially on new guitars, aren't. Still, it's not that uncommon, in my admittedly limited experience, to see the strings "biting into the bridge" a bit. I've never considered it a problem, just "the way it is" with guitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 I didn't really understand the question either, but thought I would show a picture of what most ramped bridges look like. Maybe if Wolf comes back he can clarify his question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members denvertrakker Posted July 30, 2007 Members Share Posted July 30, 2007 I didn't really understand the question either, Good, now I don't feel so bad. So, here's a picture of the bridge on my Cort. Am I properly ramped? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WolfBoy Posted July 31, 2007 Author Members Share Posted July 31, 2007 Thanks for all the replies! Sorry I wasn't clear the first time. So, yes, I was definitely referring to the string biting into the bridge between the pins and the saddle. OK, so if "ramped" refers to the notches cut into the pin holes, the guitar I am looking at is not ramped. The holes just appear as plain round holes. I guess the ramping is occurring naturally In any case, it doesn't sound like a huge problem so I will probably pick up the guitar after all. I'll be taking it to a local tech for a setup anyway so I will see what he says as well. Again, thanks for the replies, much appreciated. Maybe I'll snap a pic or two when I get it as a follow-up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted July 31, 2007 Members Share Posted July 31, 2007 Denver, yours looks good, and Wolf, you should be just fine too. The whole idea of ramping the bridge (which means intensionally cutting the slots, the strings don't do it by them self) is so they exit at about 45 degrees. On an acoustic guitar the vibration of the string is really stretching and relaxing, which pulls and releases the bridge behind the saddle (the top doesn't vibrate up and down, it is torqued by the saddle). The optimum angle for the strings to be pulling is about 45 degrees, but a little more or less doesn't matter. I cut the little slots with a small burr on a Dremel tool and some little jewlers files, kind of following the advice give here (notice that there is a difference between the terms "ramped" and "slotted" - I do both to my bridges) http://www.bryankimsey.com/bridges/slotted.htm And here is a little more theory at the bottom of the page http://www.lutherie.net/saddle_angle.html And please do post a picture, Wolfboy, I'd like to see the guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WolfBoy Posted October 21, 2007 Author Members Share Posted October 21, 2007 Wow, nothing like resurrecting a 3-month old thread Anyway, I had let that particular guitar that I asked about go a while back, then popped into the same store just the other day. I had decided if they had another OM-7 in stock, I'd grab one. And.... they did! So I picked it up. Long story short: this one does not have the issue that the previous one did at all. Perhaps the other guitar had an abnormally low saddle which was causing the strings to break at a low angle and really chew into the bridge. In any case, it's a great little guitar for the price! Thanks again for all the replies! Now to find a well-fitting case (new thread on the way)... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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