Nut Removal? (verbose content)

[rjoxyz]

I recently acquired a Walden G730. Cedar over rosewood. Wonderful tone for fingerstyle. I love the guitar, with one glaring exception. The 1 1/16" nut has ridiculously tight string spacing with plenty of room outside both E strings. I have difficulty fretting cleanly near the nut and get a lot of string buzz from adjacent fingers. I don't have as much of a problem with other nuts of the same width.

 

I bought a 1 23/32 TUSQ nut with wider string spacing. It will fit with minimal sanding of the ends. I know it doesn't seem like much, but the string spacing is very close to my J-45, which does not cause my stubby/chubby fingers to get in the way of each other. I have been told on this forum, that the string spacing makes no difference and that my technique is deficient. No argument on the latter, but I find the spacing at the nut makes a difference to me.

 

The current nut is in a deep valley between a thick headstock overlay and the fretboard (maybe 1/8"?). I will probably have to build up the bottom a bit with veneer or wood filler to make the new nut ride at the correct height as it is a touch shorter.

 

I am not sure if there is a trick to get the old nut out without damaging the headstock veneer. I was thinking of drilling into the ends and then trying to break it into pieces, working from the outside, to the center. I don't think I can just knock it loose, the way it is in there.

 

Any tips or suggestions?

[Freeman Keller]

I score along side of it with a razor knife just to make sure it is free of the fretboard and headstock overlay. I then put a wide flat piece of steel against in from the fretboard side (laying on the fretboard) and give it a little tap with a mallet (little, you just want to loosen any glue that might be holding it). I then tap in from one end with a plastic mallet and it usually will pop right out. Normal procedure is to use one or two very small drops of CA or white glue to just hold it in place but still make it easy to remove.

I don't know how the shim will work - I have alway felt it was pretty important to get it seated tightly against the neck.

There is a great article at Kimsey's site about making a nut, particularly how he spaces the strings (you can do equal centers but most have equal space between the outsides of the strings). It doesn't matter here since you have a precut nut, but usually you start with the two E strings and space the others inbetween.

Good luck, let us know how it goes

[Queequeg]

using a wooden block laid down on the fingerboard, up against the fret side of the nut and tap the block with a small mallet toward the headstock.

 

edit: yeah, Freeman beat me to it.

ya know... like he said

[Selsaral]

The advice given may seem wierd, and when you first try it it may feel wierd, but it works great and is tried and true.

[rjoxyz]

Thanks gents. Freeman raises a good issue with having to build up the area below the new nut. I don't want to affect the tone or sustain (though I've never felt the nut was that crucial--may be wrong on that).

I have some adhesive oak veneer tape used for shelf edging. I wonder if I could stack a couple layers of that under the new nut? Or would bedding it in wood filler be better? Assuming it is tight and solid against the fretboard, is the mating to the neck/headstock as important?

[Freeman Keller]

Thanks gents. Freeman raises a good issue with having to build up the area below the new nut. I don't want to affect the tone or sustain (though I've never felt the nut was that crucial--may be wrong on that). I have some adhesive oak veneer tape used for shelf edging. I wonder if I could stack a couple layers of that under the new nut? Or would bedding it in wood filler be better? Assuming it is tight and solid against the fretboard, is the mating to the neck/headstock as important?

 

 

When I make one it fits snuggly in the slot - my first step is to get the width sanded down so its fits right. Any looseness and you run the risk of it being pulled over by the bending of the strings. Normally the slot needs to be at least as deep as the headstock veneer on one side and the fretboard on the other - you can certainly try shimming it without any glue while you do the setup - the strings will hold it in place. If you like it use one or two drops of white (elmers) to hold both the shim and the nut in place.

[boxorox]

I'd say no on the self adhesive veneer. Even if it's real wood, the adhesive is not formulated to 'set up'. Contact cement. Rubber doesn't transmit vibration. If the replacement nut is too low, a shim of maple or mahogany, attached to the nut (not the neck) would be the better alternative. Better yet would be to fashion a nut that fits well out of the material of your choice.