Epiphone Masterbilt AJ-500M(warning, guitar content)

[revive]

So AJ500MS is the Vintage Sunburst in a satin finish, thanks, I didn't know that. I do know different manufactures have different codes and stuff they use to tell ya' what their guitars are. Like with Tak, if it has an S after the number it's a solid top, i.e. EG340"S" would have a solid top.

Correction...

AJ-500MN = natural
AJ-500MNS = natural satin (like mine... see avatar)
AJ-500MS = sunburst

Masterbilts do not need any designation for "solid" because the whole Masterbilt line is all-solids.

[TN.Frank]

Ok, that was it, it's the sunburst hence the "S". I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a 'B' stock or something. There is a small scratch on the binding along the side of the neck about 3/4" long but it's no big deal, really. What can I look for to make sure it's NOT a factor 2nd or a 'B' Stock guitar? I'd rather deal with MF and have em' knock some off the price of a good guitar then take a chance with a 2nd.

[Oldskool Texas]

What can I look for to make sure it's NOT a factor 2nd or a 'B' Stock guitar? .

 

 

Bonafide Epiphone factory B stocks and seconds have a "2nd" or "Used" imprint below the serial number.

[Fred Fartboski]

But you have to pay to ship it back.

I've returned and exchanged lots of guitars to/with MF. Never had to pay return shipping.

[Galabar]

I've returned and exchanged lots of guitars to/with MF. Never had to pay return shipping.

 

 

Interesting. I've only asked them to pay return shipping when something was wrong with the guitar. Will they give you a return shipping label if you just don't want the guitar?

[Sangemon]

Ok, that was it, it's the sunburst hence the "S". I just wanted to make sure it wasn't a 'B' stock or something. There is a small scratch on the binding along the side of the neck about 3/4" long but it's no big deal, really. What can I look for to make sure it's NOT a factor 2nd or a 'B' Stock guitar? I'd rather deal with MF and have em' knock some off the price of a good guitar then take a chance with a 2nd.

 

 

Frank, you found a guitar that you love the sound of, and it's within reach. Why are you trying to talk yourself out of it? You've been told that Masterbilts can be inconsistent and you've found a good one, grab it if you can. You probably won't see a Masterbilt for that price again.

 

If I didn't know any better, I'd think that you didn't really want a guitar, you really just want our attention.

[owlshead]

Frank, you found a guitar that you love the sound of, and it's within reach. Why are you trying to talk yourself out of it? You've been told that Masterbilts can be inconsistent and you've found a good one, grab it if you can. You probably won't see a Masterbilt for that price again. If I didn't know any better, I'd think that you didn't really want a guitar, you really just want our attention.

[Fred Fartboski]

Will they give you a return shipping label if you just don't want the guitar?

 

 

I don't know. I would think not.

[TN.Frank]

Like I said in my other thread, guess I need to just be more pacient or something. I just hate waiting for something that I want, that's all. I really love the way the slope shoulder Dread(aka Advanced Jumbo) look, heck, Morgan Monroe has one that's pretty decent looking for about $370 so it's not really about "which" guitar as it is about "which style" of guitar. As long as it fits the mold and has at least a solid top I'd be happy. Just need to save up until the time is right I guess.

[Oldskool Texas]

Three easy ways to screw up buying a guitar:

 

1. Buy one based on the color

2. Buy one based on the shape

3. Buy one based on the price

[Galabar]

I don't know. I would think not.

 

 

So, how did you avoid shipping? Was there something wrong with each guitar?

[Oldskool Texas]

 

I really love the way the slope shoulder Dread (aka Advanced Jumbo) look

 

 

Here's a little Gibson nomenclature trivia, courtesy of Gruhn's:

 

"Advanced" referred to the body sizes of Gibson's archtop models, which were all "advanced" or increased by one inch in 1934. "Jumbo" was the new mahogany-bodied flat-top model, with 16-inch width and "round shouldered" dreadnought shape.

 

Late in 1936 "advanced" took on a different meaning with the debut of Gibson's Advanced Jumbo. This time the advancement was in the performance of the guitar. With the dreadnought shape, a Brazilian rosewood body and a 25 1/2-inch scale, the Advanced Jumbo was a powerful, booming flat-top - referred to in later Gibson literature as "the original acoustic cannon."

 

The Advanced Jumbo didn't even make it to World War II - only an estimated 300 were produced. They were rediscovered by bluegrass musicians in the 1970s and soon gained a reputation as "bonecrushers," able to stand toe-to-toe with Martin's legendary prewar herringbone D-28.

[TN.Frank]

They were rediscovered by bluegrass musicians in the 1970s and soon gained a reputation as "bonecrushers," able to stand toe-to-toe with Martin's legendary prewar herringbone D-28

 

Sounds just what I'm looking for, a "bonecrusher". Now to just get the funds to get one.

In fact when(notice I said WHEN) I do get one I think I'll name it "Crusher".

Not only does Epi make a slope shoulder but Morgan Monroe has one out too and for quite a bit less.

http://www.instrumentalley.com/Morgan-Monroe-M-00-TBV-Blues-32-Vintage-Reissue-Ac-p/m-55v.htm

Sent em' an e-mail and I can get it for $357 bucks so if I can't get the local guy to come down a bit on the Epi I can always order one of the MM's.

[Oldskool Texas]

 

Sounds just what I'm looking for, a "bonecrusher". In fact when I do get one I think I'll name it "Crusher".

 

 

Um... I'm not sure the current Epiphones are quite the same as the 1936 Gibsons they were describing. That solid Brazilian Rosewood might make a difference, for one thing.

 

Morgan Monroe? Whuzzat?

[Fred Fartboski]

So, how did you avoid shipping? Was there something wrong with each guitar?

 

You just call customer service and explain the problem and they issue you an RMA and return shipping label via email. Each one I returned or sent back had a structural issue or was damaged. Minor cosmetic issues I'll overlook when I'm getting a really great price on something.

[rjoxyz]

Sounds just what I'm looking for, a "bonecrusher". Now to just get the funds to get one. In fact when(notice I said WHEN) I do get one I think I'll name it "Crusher". Not only does Epi make a slope shoulder but Morgan Monroe has one out too and for quite a bit less. http://www.instrumentalley.com/Morgan-Monroe-M-00-TBV-Blues-32-Vintage-Reissue-Ac-p/m-55v.htm Sent em' an e-mail and I can get it for $357 bucks so if I can't get the local guy to come down a bit on the Epi I can always order one of the MM's.

I'm having a hard time keeping up with the frenzy, but I think the MM you reference is laminated back and sides. I am confident it will not come close to the Masterbilt in tone---I'm sure of it. Any resemblence is cosmetic.

[TN.Frank]

I thought as long as a guitar had a solid top it was "good to go", that the top was the important part for making all the tone. The sides add very little to tone and the back might add a bit but nothing like the top. The top is the important part, the rest just supports the top. Did I miss something here?

[Sangemon]

I thought as long as a guitar had a solid top it was "good to go", that the top was the important part for making all the tone. The sides add very little to tone and the back might add a bit but nothing like the top. The top is the important part, the rest just supports the top. Did I miss something here?

 

 

No, Frank. Solid back and sides make a difference.

[TN.Frank]

Can't remember where I read it but IIRC it said that a solid top was the key to a good sounding guitar. The back was 2nd since it reflected the sound and the sides pretty much did nothing for the sound, just there to support the top and back. Man, I wish I could remember where I read that. Oh well, if I can afford and all solid guitar that's what I'll go with but if funds are tight then I may just be able to get a solid top. Got to go with what I can afford.

[rjoxyz]

I thought as long as a guitar had a solid top it was "good to go", that the top was the important part for making all the tone. The sides add very little to tone and the back might add a bit but nothing like the top. The top is the important part, the rest just supports the top. Did I miss something here?

 

 

Huge difference in resonance. I am not convinced the sides are as important, but every time I see someone claim the back does not contribute a significant amount to tone, I cringe. Not my experience at all. I have heard high quality lam side/back guitar sound as good as a poorly made all solid, but all things being equal (or close), it's no contest.

[TN.Frank]

Yep, I'm thinking that the top is probably 75%, the back is 20% and the sides are probably 5% of the overall tone of a guitar. Top is were the strings are attached so it does more of the vibrating, the back reflects that sound and the sides just kind of go along for the ride.

 

P.S.

I just know someone is going to ask "So, do you want a guitar that sounds 75% good or 95% good or 100% good?" Well, if there's a huge difference in price 75% will have to do, won't it.

[Oldskool Texas]

The top is the most important part. But everything else is important, too, and all the variables contribute. I think few would disagree that, all things being equal, an all solid wood guitar is preferable to anything laminated, especially if the guitar is going to be kept for a long time. A 20-year-old laminate will sound just like it did the day it was born. A 20-year-old solid-wood guitar has the potential to become a thing of rare tonal beauty.

[Sangemon]

I just know someone is going to ask "So, do you want a guitar that sounds 75% good or 95% good or 100% good?" Well, if there's a huge difference in price 75% will have to do, won't it.

Yeah, except what you are talking about doing is passing up an all solid wood guitar that you've played and you know you like, for one you've only seen pictures of, that's a laminate, and that's going to cost you about the same as the all-solid guitar. Now Frank, does that really make sense to you?

[TN.Frank]

No, it doesn't make sense. I WANT the all solid guitar but if he won't come down from the $399 then what choice do I have but to go for something I can afford. Heck, I love Sam Adams but I drink Milwakiees Best because it's what I can afford. I really hope that I can get into the Masterbilt for about $350 or that he'll have something used in good shape for even less. All I know is that I'd like a J-45 style guitar with at least a solid top(all solid would be better) and that's in my price range.

[owlshead]

No, it doesn't make sense. I WANT the all solid guitar but if he won't come down from the $399 then what choice do I have but to go for something I can afford. Heck, I love Sam Adams but I drink Milwakiees Best because it's what I can afford . I really hope that I can get into the Masterbilt for about $350 or that he'll have something used in good shape for even less. All I know is that I'd like a J-45 style guitar with at least a solid top(all solid would be better) and that's in my price range.

i drink Natty Light... but that is more to watch me waist...