Members noodles4pres Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 I'm making a neck from scratch. Will really strong 2 part epoxy mixed with that special powder bond strengthener work well?(shop teacher showed me it today, can't remember what the powder's name was) It's just to hold the wood blanks together, this should do the trick right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members LaXu Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 On the other hand you should also consider the possibility that the neck has to be removed. Wrong neck angle for example. I think generally luthiers don't use any superstrong stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jjpistols Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by LaXu On the other hand you should also consider the possibility that the neck has to be removed. Wrong neck angle for example.I think generally luthiers don't use any superstrong stuff. Usually hide glue, innit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members noodles4pres Posted May 4, 2005 Author Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by LaXu On the other hand you should also consider the possibility that the neck has to be removed. Wrong neck angle for example.I think generally luthiers don't use any superstrong stuff. This isn't for the neck pocket, I am never sticking glue in a bolt on pocket. This is just to laminate together the maple planks I'm using so that I can start cutting and shaping. That bond needs to be really strong cause you don't want the neck seperating at all, it's is a 3-piece bass neck designed like this guys guitar neck http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/neck.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members jrfan Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 I would think standard Titebond will do fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members noodles4pres Posted May 4, 2005 Author Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by jrfan I would think standard Titebond will do fine. There's no problem with access or use of epoxy, and hide glue just appears to be weaker, I think I might simply go with what is technically a stronger bond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members k4df4l Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by noodles4pres There's no problem with access or use of epoxy, and hide glue just appears to be weaker, I think I might simply go with what is technically a stronger bond. No offense intended but that is a common thought when you are first starting out....the strongest bond available has to be the best to use! My 2 cents...When I choose an adhesive for a specific task it is all about what is going to provide the strength/bond I need along with the results I want (long term thought here too) and be the easiest to work on the joint with the least amount of prep and clean up task on the piece and work area involved. I have a bunch of different glues at my disposal but rarely need to use expoy adhesives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members air guitar Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 I'm not familiar with the epoxy you're describing. But yes epoxy will work fine for that. Because you don't want this to ever come apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members noodles4pres Posted May 4, 2005 Author Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by k4df4l No offense intended but that is a common thought when you are first starting out....the strongest bond available has to be the best to use! My 2 cents...When I choose an adhesive for a specific task it is all about what is going to provide the strength/bond I need along with the results I want (long term thought here too) and be the easiest to work on the joint with the least amount of prep and clean up task on the piece and work area involved. I have a bunch of different glues at my disposal but rarely need to use expoy adhesives. Yea, I suppose your right, but epoxy wont be inconvenient to work with and this is such rough work (laminating flat plank and not a neck pocket or something that may need resetting at a later time). Besides I want as little chance of warping or twisting so I'd think the epoxy would be a good idea? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members k4df4l Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by noodles4pres Yea, I suppose your right, but epoxy wont be inconvenient to work with and this is such rough work (laminating flat plank and not a neck pocket or something that may need resetting at a later time). Besides I want as little chance of warping or twisting so I'd think the epoxy would be a good idea? It is prb well beyond the strength needed. Figure that the majority of your wood specific glues/adhesives exceed the sheer strength of the material itself so warping and twisting should not be a factor...not to mention that you are laminating. With the expoy in question, are you going to be able to aply it and wind up with a minimally visible glue joint or a substantial glue joint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members noodles4pres Posted May 4, 2005 Author Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by k4df4l It is prb well beyond the strength needed. Figure that the majority of your wood specific glues/adhesives exceed the sheer strength of the material itself so warping and twisting should not be a factor...not to mention that you are laminating. With the expoy in question, are you going to be able to aply it and wind up with a minimally visible glue joint or a substantial glue joint? I'm using five 10ish lb clamps, I'm gonna make sure I've thouroughly degreased the surfaces, and most of the glue will be squeezed out, the remaining glue SHOULD set in a very strong and quite fine join. Shouldn't be more obvious than any other really... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members k4df4l Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Originally posted by noodles4pres I'm using five 10ish lb clamps, I'm gonna make sure I've thouroughly degreased the surfaces, and most of the glue will be squeezed out, the remaining glue SHOULD set in a very strong and quite fine join. Shouldn't be more obvious than any other really... Well..it is a bit like taking a bazoka to a knife fight but it is your project. Good luck with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Tundra_Man Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Assuming your mating surfaces are true, standard yellow wood glue (i.e. Titebond) will be stronger than the wood fibers themselves, so going with a stronger glue doesn't bring any strength benefits. Also, some epoxy glues leave a more visible glue line (because they're thicker) than wood glue, so that's another thing to keep in mind. And some luthiers feel that epoxy dampens vibrations (and therefore tone) but I don't necessarily agree with that opinion unless maybe you're slathering the whole instrument in epoxy. As far as warp resistance, that should come from the wood laminates themselves rather than the type of glue. But there's no reason you can't use epoxy if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Paul Buerk Posted May 4, 2005 Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Anything but Gorilla Glue. I've laid up necks with Titebond, Hot Hide Glue (not the liquid crud), and epoxy, all of which work just fine. Hot Hide Glue is harder to work with, so I usually don't recommend it to somebody who's building just one or two guitars. If your joinery isn't up to snuff, you don't want to deal with hide glue - but I love the stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members noodles4pres Posted May 4, 2005 Author Members Share Posted May 4, 2005 Well I mixed up the 2-part epoxy and even added the powder resin strengthener stuff. I acetoned all the joining faces, applied the epoxy, and put it in the clamps. I'll check tomorrow to see if it's set. I'm worried about how much wood I have to work with around the heel though, I hope I don't have to put it through the joiner too many more times or I'll go under 2-9/16" width at the 20th fret... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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