Members rememberduane Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 If so, how did it turn out? I'm thinking about a Musikraft or Warmoth Tele build, but finishing it with several coats of Tung or Linseed Oil for that "gun oil" finish look/feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bowlingshirt Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 I finished an alder body with tung oil a couple of years back, with about 6 or 7 coats. Turned out looking just fine and was easy to do. Keep in mind that it isn't the most durable finish, but it is easy to repair dings if you get any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members baimun Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 When I nabbed my US made Koa Charvel from a pawn shop, it was in pretty rough shape... the wood was dull and had some good scratches in it. I took the whole thing apart and sanded it down to the bare wood... then I slowly started building up layers of tung oil. First coat: I'd let each coat dry overnight, then I'd lightly buff it with some steel wool, wipe it down with a clean, dry cloth, and apply the next coat. I built up 4 or 5 coats on the neck (remaining satin to the touch) and about 8 coats on the body (building to a gloss... note the reflections) Finished Guitar: It's got a warm, open, resonant feel when playing it... much better than sticky poly... but the wood just looks fantastic... looks like WOOD, not plastic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members KLeeneX Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 That Koa guitar is super nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members prauny Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 This is finished in tung-oil (antique oil) It had hardeners and resins in it. I think that pure tung oil isnt good for guitars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dman11 Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 I got an Deep Orange flametop strat and an Amber Flamed tele in Tru-oilClick "myspace" in my sig for a slide show. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 Tru Oil is a modified linseed oil. It drys a little quicker and harder than tung and is as easy to work with. Here are some Tru Oil pics. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Sheraton Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 Never done a guitar in either but I've done a few shotguns in both Tru-Oil and straight linseed oil. The biggest difference between linseed and Tru-Oil is that, as was previously mentioned, Tru-Oil is modified with hardeners and drying agents giving the finish a glossy lacquer like look that mostly sits "on" the wood. A linseed oil finish is a long slow process and is a finish that is "in" the wood. It penetrates the pores, usually darkens the wood somewhat, dries slowly and leaves that "oil finished gunstock" look. It is less glossy and over time it builds up to a warm glow. That said, if you don't let it soak in and dry sufficiently between coats it will be tacky (as in sticky) for a while. Gunstocks are usually walnut and the rule of thumb for a linseed oil finish is one coat a day for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat a month for a year, one coat a year for life. Too much information, I know. But I love the idea. Let me know if you go the linseep oil route. I'd love to see pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Burningleaves Posted August 24, 2007 Members Share Posted August 24, 2007 When I nabbed my US made Koa Charvel from a pawn shop, it was in pretty rough shape... the wood was dull and had some good scratches in it. I took the whole thing apart and sanded it down to the bare wood... then I slowly started building up layers of tung oil. First coat: I'd let each coat dry overnight, then I'd lightly buff it with some steel wool, wipe it down with a clean, dry cloth, and apply the next coat. I built up 4 or 5 coats on the neck (remaining satin to the touch) and about 8 coats on the body (building to a gloss... note the reflections) Finished Guitar: It's got a warm, open, resonant feel when playing it... much better than sticky poly... but the wood just looks fantastic... looks like WOOD, not plastic. Looks great:thu: Did you use the steel wool for the final gloss finish or something else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rememberduane Posted August 25, 2007 Author Members Share Posted August 25, 2007 Thanks for posting guys! Those lapsteels are GAS-inducing and that koa guitar looks great. I'm thinking a one piece swamp ash body with a quartersawn maple neck and pau ferro fingerboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted August 25, 2007 Members Share Posted August 25, 2007 FYI, Linseed Oil never dries. It soaks into the wood. Get the wood warm enough and it will come right back out. It's {censored} for a finish unless you your guitar greasy. What is referred to as tung oil is not tung oil. It is varnish using tung oil as a base instead of pine resin. Same goes for Birchwood Casey's TruOil finish. It is a varnish based on a boiled (reduced down to a varnish) linseed oil with driers and hardeners (polyesters) added. We used to call it linspeed oil as it dried very quickly to a hard finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members rememberduane Posted August 25, 2007 Author Members Share Posted August 25, 2007 FYI, Linseed Oil never dries. It soaks into the wood. Get the wood warm enough and it will come right back out. It's {censored} for a finish unless you your guitar greasy. What is referred to as tung oil is not tung oil. It is varnish using tung oil as a base instead of pine resin. Same goes for Birchwood Casey's TruOil finish. It is a varnish based on a boiled (reduced down to a varnish) linseed oil with driers and hardeners (polyesters) added. We used to call it linspeed oil as it dried very quickly to a hard finish. Great, thanks for the info! So I should check out TruOil finish if I don't want a greasy guitar? I'm looking for as little finish as possible without leaving the wood dangerously bare. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thrill74 Posted August 25, 2007 Members Share Posted August 25, 2007 2 coats Linseed oil on Basswood about 7 years ago. Totally non greasy. Here it is today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bluzkat Posted August 25, 2007 Members Share Posted August 25, 2007 I did my guitar (mahogany) with tung oil over 20 years ago... still looks great. Sorry my scanner's dead or I would post a pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted August 25, 2007 Members Share Posted August 25, 2007 Tung oil is great for natural finish and leaves the wood pores looking more open. TruOil fills the pores and can be buffed like glass with a mild polishing compound. I use the palm of my hand to apply it and rub until my hand just starts to Stick or "shudder" over the finish, then move on the next area. Neat thing about the TruOil is if you decide the high gloss isn't what you want, 0000 steel wool will dull it perfectly to a satin "hand rubbed" finish. I like them both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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