Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Members

I have a little dilemma. I went and read the specs for my speakers and it tells me that the cup for mounting is 1 3/8 inches. I want to get a pole mount that is a little less wobbly than the one that we currently have. So, I huff it down to the Home Depot and buy a 1 3/8 inch pole...............It's too small. Same deal............the speaker sways back and forth and looks like crap when it on sitting on it. I know that most people here have probably been through this and are laughing right now. I can see the humor in it. I have certain pet peeves. I'm a stickler for a neat stage. I hate cords under my feet or all balled up around the stage. I try to keep the band area visually respectable. So, a crooked speaker is annoying to me also. The problem is that I don't want to drop $120 for 2-30 inch poles. Seems a little excessive to me. What do I do......... short of duct taping these things? I thought about buying some shrink tube and seeing if that snugs them up a bit but I figured that I'd throw it your way and see what you guys came up with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I have this problem also.

 

1 1/2 inch poles are too big and won't go in the slots, but the 1 3/8 " poles are like he says wobbly... the speaker sits on there all kitty wampass... no good at all. isn't there a cheap acceptable fix for this??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

OH Yeah. TBone........You Rock !!!! 12. 50 each? I book marked the site too. I wanna call the guy that quoted me $120 and tell him to go F himself. I knew something was rotten in Denmark !!!! Ironically enough......Penn Fabricators is the company that makes the part that is on the Parts Express web site. So, it was a good call, Mark. Thanks again for the help fellas.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I actually have a related question, so I won't start a new topic for it.

 

I have had a couple of 15" pole mountable speakers for a couple of years and have never had stands for them (not something I can afford at the moment). The other day I had a thought that I could probably use a couple of our lighting stands for them (we have 5 and don't use more than 2 - small shows).

 

The stands 'almost' fit (they fit but aren't snug), a bit of tape around the end and they will. However, based on the photo, will they be safe?

 

How high would I be able to go while still being safe? I know I'll have to cut of the stands lower than they are at present.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by Audiopile


Penn Fab part numbers:


1 3/8" x 26" tube: M154306

1 3/8" x 48" tube: M154312


1 1/2" x 26" tube: M154406

1 1/2" x 48" tube: M154412


OD of a 1 3/8" tube is 1.375"

OD of a 1 1/2" tube is 1.50"


Now, it may be that you need new hats (pole mounts sockets).


It's a fact of life that some products on the market are copies of copies of copies. If your hats are cast aluminum, that could be the problem (the copy of the copy thing). One way to make a copy is take an existing product and cut it in half (along the parting line) and use the cut in half origional to make the new casting mold. The only problem is that aluminum shrinks something like 14% from the liquid state to the solid state... so the copy of the origional will be 14% smaller... and a few cycles through the off shore copy machine, and a 1 1/2" hat might be just a bit too small to fit an 1 1/2" tube in it, but too big for a 1 3/8" tube to fit snugly.

 

 

 

 

so,,, what are ya sayin'? that MADE IN CHINA products are still crappy assed fakes of the real thing? you know it,, and I know it,, but it doesn't stop Wall Mart from loading up their entire inventory with imported Chineese wares,,, they are making lots of money, and their customers WANT it cheaper...

 

who cares if in another 10 years, American made manufacturing will be a part of American History class in school.... so long as one can save a buck or two in the short term..

 

I wonder if a person with an MBA and 25 years of experience in manufacturing can even get hired by McDonalds to flip burgers... don't they hire school age teenagers because they are exempt from Federal Minimum wage rules?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • CMS Author

The most obvious solution: Mount your speakers on top of a stack of subs:D .

 

Is there any reason you can't wrap the poles with some thin sheet plastic to shim the diameter to the correct size? Once you find the ideal amount, fix it in place with contact cement. Total cost should be under $15 for plastic and glue.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • CMS Author

 

Originally posted by moody


The stands 'almost' fit (they fit but aren't snug), a bit of tape around the end and they will. However, based on the photo, will they be safe?


How high would I be able to go while still being safe? I know I'll have to cut of the stands lower than they are at present.

 

 

If the stands are rated for the weight, you should be okay. Frankly those tripods don't look as if they'd be very rigid, but you'll have tobe the judge.

 

For height, just go high enough to get the speakers above the crowd's heads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

I've had the same problem. I've gone through all the pipe at Home Depot...plumbing, electrical conduit, fencing, and when you put calipers on them, they come out 1 5/16" (1/16" short). Nothing works... a tape wrap on the ends just gums up after awhile. The pipe has to be an outside diameter of EXACTLY 1 3/8" to fit properly, and I don't know where stand fabricators get it, but I continue to look. Right now I'm using the pipe from old stands, but I eventually want two or three different lengths.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • CMS Author

 

Originally posted by mrcpro

Nothing works... a tape wrap on the ends just gums up after awhile.

 

 

Hence my suggestion to use plastic sheeting as a wrap/shim. I know I've seen sheets of Teflon-coated plastic for woodworking jigs, and I'm searching for it. I'l post a source when I find it or something else as suitable.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Here's what I did...

 

I bought aluminum wiring conduit slightly large for the holes, then took them to a local muffler shop. They had a tool that "shrinks" tubing (actually, it puts a little longitudinal kink in it and compresses the rest). Anyway, it looks factory and fits perfectly. A machine shop might also have the dies to do that. Shouldn't cost you much, if anything at all (sometimes, you can talk them into doing little tasks like that for free). Anyway, something to consider...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members
By Audiopile

cockeyed speakers on a pole will never look right.

Mark hit the nail on the head. That's the point that I was trying to make. That's what led me to post this in the first place. Functionally, the poles are ok. Visually, (to me) they look like a bad car wreck. To me, I want everything in a show to be professional. I want to be able to jump around like a maniac without stopming on cables. Visually, I want the stage to look neat. Not like a morter just went off next to me. A crooked speaker is just another thing to make me cringe. I can't necessarily control how it sounds (short of playing all the notes right and singing on key) but I can definitely control how it looks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by Craigv

If the stands are rated for the weight, you should be okay. Frankly those tripods don't look as if they'd be very rigid, but you'll have tobe the judge.


For height, just go high enough to get the speakers above the crowd's heads.

 

 

The tripods are rigid alright - I wouldn't be worried about putting my own full weight on them, however, they were designed as lighting stands so they don't have a rated weight as such.

 

What I'm worried about is if the tripod is big enough for the size of the speakers, and how high I should go before I start worrying about people knocking them over accidently.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • CMS Author

 

Originally posted by moody



The tripods are rigid alright - I wouldn't be worried about putting my own full weight on them, however, they were designed as lighting stands so they don't have a rated weight as such.


What I'm worried about is if the tripod is big enough for the size of the speakers, and how high I should go before I start worrying about people knocking them over accidently.

 

 

That's why I said what I did...the legs on those things rely solely on the pivot point for strength. Most speaker stands have a more robust leg construction that relies upon triangulated brackets and have a somewhat wider stance. While not drunk-proof, they usually will still stand if hit moderately.

 

There's no need to go higher than 6-7 feet. But if you can't get them that high and feel safe with what you've got, then don't use them for speakers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

What I'm worried about is if the tripod is big enough for the size of the speakers, and how high I should go before I start worrying about people knocking them over accidently.

 

Use caution tape? LOL. Just kiddin.........I think that the suggested hight is 7 ft. Don't quote me on that though. I usually don't mount our mains any higher than 7 ft, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

One more quick question....has anyone ever bought these pole mounts that are specifically designed for this application and had them not fit? The cups in the subs are aluminum but the cups in the speaker (main) is some type of plastic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

More and more of the 'hats' and poles are sourced offshore and are closer to 35mm...which should be the same as 1 3/8"...but is often not. I have cut up plastic milk jugs and used the strips as shims with good luck...but, honestly, it is a PITA. The suggestion to get oversized tubing and have it swaged to fit is a wonderful idea.

 

Kim

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

 

Originally posted by Audiopile

It's a fact of life that some products on the market are copies of copies of copies. If your hats are cast aluminum, that could be the problem (the copy of the copy thing). One way to make a copy is take an existing product and cut it in half (along the parting line) and use the cut in half origional to make the new casting mold. The only problem is that aluminum shrinks something like 14% from the liquid state to the solid state... so the copy of the origional will be 14% smaller... and a few cycles through the off shore copy machine, and a 1 1/2" hat might be just a bit too small to fit an 1 1/2" tube in it, but too big for a 1 3/8" tube to fit snugly.

 

 

That's the way my JBL SF15 cabs are.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Members

Rbts has now ordered posts and tripods through the parts express place mentioned here. I am looking forward to getting them. I read an article somewhere saying that to avoid phase cancelation problems, it is best to put all the subs together somewhere (the middle??) and so tripods for the mid highs on my small little PA are probably the way for me to go so I can lift them up without having to stick them on sticks out of the sub cabinets... which as mentioned the fencing poles from Lowes just made them be all cockeyed...

 

I thought audiophile's comments were the best though about how if you listen to something long enough, it begins to sound OK ... I notice that when I listen to recordings of MY band, it sounds a little "different", but if I listen to them over and over again long enough... they begin to sound a little more normal? Only problem left is how to get OTHER people to listen to our recordings over and over again enough times.

 

But seriously, thank you for all the comments, SR

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...