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  • Best Spray Paint for Guitars?

    Whats the best non-nitro spray can paint for guitar bodies? Like what brands? Ive been trying to refiinish some guitars with the Reranch nitro and its not coming out real good. Im thinking nitro is just to hard to use in a spray can. So I wanna try using something else. Also, can I spray another kind of paint over nitro or do I have to strip it first? Thanks!
    Originally Posted by guitarmandp


    But I really don't give ****************, I have money to make and I'm wasting my time playing on a message board.

  • #2
    The nitro from Reranch isn't hard to use. That said I prefer the Duplicolor acrylic lacquer available at most good auto parts stores. Large selection of colors and they have clear too. I've done quite a few with it and had great results. Another advantage is WHEN the guitar is dinged. Really easy to get a match.
    There can never be a perfect plan. What's perfect for one human bean ain't perfect for the next one. Cuz he's a lentil.

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    • #3
      What exactly is the problem you're having? One of the keys to any finish is the surface prep. Years ago, before I switched to a compressor and gun, I was using the SM spray cans of clear nitro. I found you had to spray quite a few cans of the stuff before the levels became useful. Spray gun does a much better job. Are you spraying over a color coat or???

      A&H GL2800 console, BagEnd Crystals over D-18's, 12"and 15" BagEnd and EAW wedges powered and processed by QSC, Klark, BSS, Symetrix, Valley, Sabine, Peavey and BagEnd INFRA.

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      • #4
        Well mainly a lot of orange peel. Also the surface just looks a little uneven. How many cans of clear should I use? I used 2 whole cans on it.
        Originally Posted by guitarmandp


        But I really don't give ****************, I have money to make and I'm wasting my time playing on a message board.

        Comment


        • #5
          You won't get away from orange peel even with the best spray equipment and the best technique. Read Reranch refinishing 101. I always go very light coats. 3 coats, 3 hours apart. 3 super light passes is one coat. Then I'll wait 3 days before going over it with a green scotchbrite pad to knock down the high spots. I do this at least 3 times. I only do this with the clear. The color coat I just use enough to make it evenly colored. Once I've done the clear I wait at least 3 weeks before polishing begins. This is called the rule of threes for good reason.
          There can never be a perfect plan. What's perfect for one human bean ain't perfect for the next one. Cuz he's a lentil.

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          • #6
            If you want a better finish you need to go to a sprayer. A can only has one dencity. When a factory sprays, they gradually thin the laquer with laquer thinner till its nearly 70~80% thinner on the last few coats. This gives a glassy coating. You can try to get a thinner coat by ghosting very thin layers on, but its just not the same. The one good thing about laquer is you can buff out flaws to a mirror finish even if you havent applyed it as well as you should have or taken care of flaws as you go.

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            • #7
              If you want a better finish you need to go to a sprayer. A can only has one dencity. When a factory sprays, they gradually thin the laquer with laquer thinner till its nearly 70~80% thinner on the last few coats. This gives a glassy coating. You can try to get a thinner coat by ghosting very thin layers on, but its just not the same. The one good thing about laquer is you can buff out flaws to a mirror finish even if you havent applyed it as well as you should have or taken care of flaws as you go.


              Exactly. I moved to a touch up gun for my clear just because my father pulled it out of his pack rat stash (yes, it runs in the family). It's a Devilbiss that's older than I am and I was still able to get a repack kit. It does make for way faster work because of the super thin coats toward the end. But lacquer can be made to shine like a new dime on a goat's ass even if you brush it on.
              There can never be a perfect plan. What's perfect for one human bean ain't perfect for the next one. Cuz he's a lentil.

              Comment


              • #8
                OK heres another qustion. Can I spray like an acrylic over the nitro if I wanted a thicker clear coat?
                Originally Posted by guitarmandp


                But I really don't give ****************, I have money to make and I'm wasting my time playing on a message board.

                Comment


                • #9
                  You can. I suggest misting the first few coats on and allow the new finish to acclimate to the old. I prefer to use clear nitro on nitro, but the acrylic has the advantage of not yellowing and shrinking with age. Nitro uses cotton to give it its hardness, Acrylic uses acrylic resins called polymers or thermoplastics. Both use lacquer thinner as a dryer and acrylic should melt into the nitro finish fine.

                  I'm not sure the difference in feel, but you shouldnt have a problem using one over the other. Some say the Acrylic has a more plastic look like polyuerothans, whereas the Nitro has a softer sheen to it which is why its a favorite on instruments. many will use acrylic first then use the nitro over because it will yellow with time giving a more vintage look.

                  Where you get into problems might be with using a water based lacquer, Oils, or polyuerothanes over a laquer based finish. You want to stick with the same chemical grouping and in your case, it should contain the same lacquer thinner. Lacquer is different than other finishes that create a new skin with each layer applied. Each new coat of Lacquer melts into the old making one thick coating. I dont think water based Lacquers will melt into a Nitro finish. It may work the other way around having nitro melt into a water base, I dont know. I wouldnt waste my time experimenting on a work in progress. Those cans are expensive enough and its a bitch to strip it down and start over if it fails.

                  Anyway the short answer is yes it will work but it is a clearer more plastic looking clearcoat is thats what you want.

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                  • #10
                    I've used acrylic over nitro and nitro over acrylic. Let it dry for at least 3 days and go real light mist coats at first. One beauty of lacquer is you can go heavier coats after the first one sets up. The melting action keeps sags from happening. But, just to be safe, it's always a good idea to go mist coats at first when changing types of lacquer. And NEVER, EVER spray lacquer over non baked enamel. Unless you're a big fan of Salvador Dali.
                    There can never be a perfect plan. What's perfect for one human bean ain't perfect for the next one. Cuz he's a lentil.

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                    • #11
                      Yes I've only done one guitar in enamil and it was a huge mistake. It grows a skin and remains liquid below the surface for a long time. I was still getting stand rash 6 months after the paint was on there. Enamil is for painting your metal patio furniture or maybe wood surfaces where you want an eggshell finish to resist dirt and grime. Its not a good instrument paint unless you want to wait 6 months to a year for it to fully cure.

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                      • #12
                        Hmmm in that case maybe Ill just get another can of nitro satin clear. Might as well get another can of black as well ... .. my hanger broke and i dropped the body onto the floor putting some more "relicing" on it. .
                        Originally Posted by guitarmandp


                        But I really don't give ****************, I have money to make and I'm wasting my time playing on a message board.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Just sand the rash smooth then repaint over it. Buff the new finish into the old if needed. Apply the clear coat last after the patch is done.

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                          • #14
                            Just sand the rash smooth then repaint over it. Buff the new finish into the old if needed. Apply the clear coat last after the patch is done.

                            This is the beauty of lacquer. More paint, some clear and some elbow grease. Bye bye dings.
                            Not quite that simple, but damn near.
                            There can never be a perfect plan. What's perfect for one human bean ain't perfect for the next one. Cuz he's a lentil.

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                            • #15
                              I've had great results with Krylon rattle cans--even withe their new formula. Here's the latest refinish:

                              I've also had great results with Duplicolor--just did an Iceman in purple chrome:
                              Just another Ibanez junkie, and my favorite flavor is purple!

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