Replacement reverb tank for Fender Champion 110

The reverb in my Fender Champion 110 died. I was playing loud and I heard a clanging springy noise and now it just gives static.

Does anyone know where to get a new one? I've tried Google and writing to Accutronics. The Fender site doesn't have a contact number or email... seems they're worried about liability or something.

The tank looks like a cardboard rectangular tube with a clip-style connector, not RCA jacks. I couldn't find markings on it but didn't look very carefully.

I tried avoiding all this and getting a digital reverb pedal but I think I prefer the sound of the spring.

If you can I'd go with a good accutronics unit (now owned by belton so search under both names), something like the type 8 if you need a short one. 4 springs generally sound richer than two. You need to find out the proper input/output impedances and grounding scheme though. Basically you need to fill in the accutronics part number with values specific your amps requirements and then search for that unit. Best way to find what your amp needs is to contact fender.

from the accutronics site...

PART NUMBERING SPECIFICATIONS FOR TYPE 8

EXAMPLE: 8EB2C1B

DIGIT #1 - REVERB TYPE

8 for Type 8 or 9 for Type 9

DIGIT #2 - INPUT IMPEDANCE

A = 10 Ohm

B = 190 Ohm

C = 240 Ohm

D = 310 Ohm

E = 800 Ohm

F = 1925 Ohm

DIGIT #3 - OUTPUT IMPEDANCE

A = 600 Ohm

B = 2575 Ohm

C = 12000 Ohm

DIGIT #4 - DECAY TIME

1 = Short (1.2 to 2.0 sec)

2 = Medium (1.75 to 3.0 sec)

3 = Long (2.75 to 4.0 sec)

DIGIT #5 - CONNECTORS

A = Input Grounded / Output Grounded

B = Input Grounded / Output Insulated

C = Input Insulated / Output Grounded

D = Input Insulated / Output Insulated

E = No Outer Channel

DIGIT #6 - LOCKING DEVICES

1 = No Lock

DIGIT #7 - MOUNTING PLANE

A = Horizontal Open Side Up

B = Horizontal Open Side Down

C = Vertical Connectors Up

D = Vertical Connectors Down

E = On End Input Up

F = On End Output Up

Thanks for the reply. I can't seem to find an email or ticket system on the Fender site, but I'll try calling their phone number. The part looks really easy to swap out for a new one... I just need to find out what to order.

It is easy once you get the right one, though you'll probably have to swap the connectors to RCA type if you go with an accutronics unit. No biggie there though.

The hard part is figuring out what part to order. Fender customer service has never let me down. Call the number and they should be able to forward you to the right place, just might take some persistance on your part to push through the system.

Good luck.

I called Fender and they said the Accutronics number was 1BB2E4A. They didn't know where I could get one.

I looked online and there is an Accutronics 1BB2D1B. The only major difference seems to be the fifth digit, i.e. how the connectors are grounded. Digits 6 and 7 seem to be about how it's mounted.

I was also able to track down a MOD 4BB3C1B. This is the full size tank like is found in the '63 Reverb. I'm tempted to try it. There's plenty of room in the amp, the impedences are the same, but I'm concerned about the grounding situation. If it's just about noise, well the old one was pretty noisy anyway when turned up. I just would like not to fry myself or the amp.

You need to check the impediance of the reverb tank against your current tank. Its like buying a replacements speaker. The elements inside act like speaker and microphone that send the sound through a spring and the elements are rated in ohms from say 8 to 10,000 ohms

All you need to know is the physical size so it fits in your cab, and then the ohms of the original. I wouldnt get bogged down over part numbers when buying a replacement, just the size and impediance and you're good to go. The connection is a relatively minor point. Most replacements will have RCA connectors. Adding RCA connectors to your existing wires or hard wiring is a fairly simple task with a soldering iron. When I get to work I'll dind you an exact replacement.

Thanks. I can solder, but I don't really understand what's going on with the grounding here. There should be plenty of room for a large tank. Fender was generous with the cabinet size for this amp. The ohms between the original and the two examples I found match exactly.

Then you're good to go. Theres basically three connections for a reverb tank. A hot input, a hot output and a ground. The same ground is used for the input and output and it also connects to the metal frame of the tank to prevent hum. Its the same ground as the amp chassis frame and the sleeve of your guitar cord. Anything that needs to be shielded from hum will use the same common ground. The two wires that connect the tank will have a hot wire and ground. Both grounds will connect to the chassis as a safety factor. In reality only one needs to connect from the amp chassis and the reverb tank, but both should be connected to prevent ground loops and to act as a backup if one or the other isnt as conductive as it should be.

The main item is not to mix up the input and output wires. Theres usually a marking stamped on the tank, for the in and out and the wires are usually different colors. Use a magic marker to mark the input wire just in case.

It sounds like maybe then I'm better off with both of them being grounded, just in case. I didn't mention, but I also found a 4BB2A1B. This has both the inputs and outputs grounded, but the decay time is medium as opposed to long for the 4BB3C1B. I kind of wanted the long decay time though.

edit: Nevermind. Turns out the amp is only 15.5" wide inside. Seemed much bigger before. I put in a 10" speaker and there was plenty of room to spare on both sides. Looks like I have to go with the type 1.