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daddymack

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Posts posted by daddymack


  1. it really isn't so simple as a 'best' selection, as many cover the same 'tricks' well...it is the exceptions that make some models stand out...and what you want the pedal to do that matters. I own no less than 5 delays, each with its own 'quirk' that sets them apart...one is just better at long decay, one is better at slapback without artifacts, one is just able to give me up to 2 seconds of delay time...one has a more lush sound when the delays overlap...one interacts better with one of the other pedals.


  2. Fuses are a must for the 'any eventuality kit' for guitarists...along with duct tape, electrical tape, spare tubes, pens, wire strippers, wire cutters, scissors, spare cables for everything, spare batteries for clip on tuner, Phillips and straight blade screwdrivers in two sizes [or an electric on with backup battery], back up tuner, cana tuner fizz...and optionally, a 105mm Howitzer.


  3. I hear less than that, maybe 2 or 3 a year, now, and he no longer goes by Howard [I forgot about that...he changed his first name to 'Alex']. To the best of my knowledge he is still doing refurbs and repairs for free, even if you are not the original owner, but a new amp from him runs in the 6 figures....and he is booked out several years. An old friend [now deceased] had one of his early modded Fenders from the late 70s...great amp. Not sure what happened to that amp after he passed, but I'm sure he still had it to the day he died, but he didn't gig it anymore, just for recording. I hope his wife knew what it was, because from the front, it just looked like an old Tweed Fender Deluxe...but it sounded like heaven 😉

    Dumble was a legend here [L.A.] in the late 70s, when he was producing the modded Fenders, similar to what Randall Smith was doing, 'boogie-izing' old Fenders.  I guess David Lindley and Jackson Browne were close friends of Dumble, because I had seen both using the 'Overdrive Specials' live long before the word was out on the Dumble 'magic'.

    DOD_150_Front.jpg

     

    There is no one 'standard' of any of his amps, apparently,  as he builds to suit the buyer, so some OD specials are 50W, 100W. or switchable, and some are EL34, some are 6L6 powered, some are the black look pictured above, some are tweed cased....


  4. I might go with a 1.25 or 1.5 amp standard, maybe a slo-blo, it is okay in a tube amp, but for a SS amp it can allow more damage...

    but I can't read that fuzzy schematic to see what the current draw would be.


  5. 2 hours ago, Mikeo said:

    Rule of thumb with Gibson Les Pauls and Gibson SG's. If if they are in the case, don't know the case over. My luthier has made a  fine living repairing Gibson head stocks. The Customs with 3 piece maple necks might be a bit more forgiving.

    I have never had and issue, but a J185 I own I had laying against the bed and dented the top of the head stock. My luthier steamed out the dent  and ever polished the top of the headstock, better than Gibson ever though of doing. I still have the J185 that was purchased in 1993. It has a lovely flamed back on it, better what I have seen on many J185. It's in a very sweet Cali Girl styled case.

    I own a lot of Gibson gear I have collected over 4 decades, and it's all in really fine shape.

    what does this have to do with the topic, amigo?:freak:

    • Haha 2

  6. yes an all through January, until he had no other way out, our President said it was a hoax, that it would go away, that only a few people had it...all the while the CDC and WHO were telling him and leaders elsewhere it was a potentially deadly pandemic. South Korea beat it. New Zealand beat it. The yare far closer to China than we are...but their leadeship took the advice of the experts. Ours didn't and we have 150,000 people dead, that is like a small city of dead people. 

    I get it, your state, for whatever reason, likely lack of tourism, may not be seeing the numbers that Florida, NY, Texas, California and others are seeing, but mark my words, you are not impervious. No one is, no place in this country is safe from it. I blame politicians because had the Feds and Trump given a unified view from the start, without all the hyperbole and lies, yes lies, Trump foisted on the ignorant, things would be better now.


  7. On 7/8/2020 at 3:10 PM, Samperson said:

    You haters should knock it off with trash talking one of the greatest designers of all time. If you knew 1/10th of what howard dumble knows you'd keep your big yappers shut.

    well, you are 8 years admonishing these hooligans...and yes, Howard Dumble made amps that no one can beat, he is a legend, as are his amps.:thu:


  8. late to the party, but I would never even plug in an amp that didn't have a fuse on the AC in line. Grant is correct, risk of fire, electrocution and damage to the amp is why amps have fuses.

    Back in the late 1940s and into the late 1950s, these kinds of designs were on the market, because they were cheap and 'functional', but little consideration was given to end user safety..caveat emptor was the rule of the era.

    The AC part of an amp is basic electrical stuff, like wiring a wall socket or a wall switch, except that what you plug into the socket or turn on with the switch should be UL approved. Looking at some of the projects you are working on, I shake my head all too frequently. There is a reason you are finding these old project amps ,and probably cheaply purchased, and that is they need to be upgraded on several levels.

    Many years ago, when I was a computer system bench assembler/jr tech, I watched a coworker decide to cut the lead of a capacitor without discharging it first...his dykes missed me by an inch when they flew out of his hand. We picked him up off the floor, but he couldn't stand up, and we had to call an ambulance. He couldn't talk or control his muscles. He suffered mild but permanent brain damage, and lost dexterity in his right hand. Couldn't work on the bench, so we transferred him to the expediting department. He resigned shortly thereafter.

    Sadly, Kenny, you remind me of his incident when I look at the things you are doing...


  9. no, but unfortunately it was politicians who allowed this situation to get where it is by not listening to the experts. Other countries recognized the pandemic early on and made the right choices, and they are in a far better position now than we are...which includes the fact that we don't have gigs. Can't fly to Europe, either...

    As an aside, please have a look here...https://www.saveourstages.com/

    Independent venues are failing, they need help, ours, fans...everybody.


  10. On 7/20/2020 at 9:59 PM, Emory said:

    Where the heck did the user reviews go? I admit I'm a brain addled geezer.... but I can't find them

    User reviews are what made me come here first and now..... they're gone?

    Googled "Harmony central user reviews guitars"

    All the links (except for expert reviews) were posters complaining on other sites about the purge of reviews

    And they were mostly dated 2010 to 2013ish

    Killed the golden goose

    I'll have to remove HC from my quick links

    Sad

    unfotunately, in the last platform changeover, there apparently was no way to retrieve it all.

    All we have now are the 'Pro' reviews...and I have no idea who is doing anything with that now that Phil is gone, and they wouldn't print my pro reviews...:facepalm:

    I think we lost a lot of 'cred' losing that stuff; they were not all honest, many were through the 'new owner' kaleidoscope, but after reading enough reviews you could sort out most of the fly specks and get to the pepper.

    But I came here for the OLGA back around 1998/9 looking for material that was already charted. I have a number of the user reviews under my name, so I was not pleased to learn it was largely irretrievable.

    But I'm still here, and no, I'm not a moderator due to attrition as someone asked awhile back...nobody wanted the job years ago...silly me, I volunteered.


  11. 11 hours ago, joshhpmusic said:

    Those 275 lb capacity units could work, the capacity would be 'overkill', but also, my experience that type of 'flip-back' wheels is that they stop working correctly very quickly [the plastic housing for the mechanism is not up to the task, I know because I use these for moving my gear]. As long as you leave the wheels in the 'out' position, they are fine. Depending on the wall thickness of the aluminum tubing, drilling through them may cause an issue as well.

    Do a google search for 'custom ATA road case manufacturers', you'll find plenty of them, just try to find one that is local to you to save on the shipping costs.

    There are simple ways to make the upper case detachable [like where I said 'bolt it on'], and complicated ways [slip-on studs/keyholes, latches].


  12. 2 hours ago, joshhpmusic said:

    Any examples of what a qualified road case company would be? I'd love to be able to find what some options are.

    I do not have access to a machine shop or a welder. Would hope to use a different method to build if possible, as I've seen a few rough guides out there on. Does not need to be the toughest case, won't be using on flights or anything and I won't be performing out traveling very often. Mostly for personal use.

    The equipment itself on the upper level at current (what you see) is less than 15 pounds all together, if not 10. A power strip and any other accessories may bump it up to 15.

    The telescoping suitcase handle thing is exactly what I'm going for here, albeit sturdy, and able to mount a case on. Any ideas for how the connection between case and handle/frame could work?

    sure, you bolt it on. Depending on the structure of the upper box, you might be able to rivet it to the frame. all you need for that is a hand drill and a hand riveter.

    Pretty much any case company could do this kind of thing for you, but they will charge $$$ for it. You have a stability issue to overcome, so your bottom section must be heavy and large enough to counter the 15# you have above it. I would suggest not rigging this for standing up, because of the stability.


  13. Before we get too far into this, I would suggest you take this to a qualified roadcase company.

    I used to do this, many years ago, but I'm not here to design for free. But I will ask some questions that may help you think this through, if you haven't already.

    Do you have access to a machine shop, and a welder?

    What is the estimated weight of the upper level with all the equipment?

    what height do you want to be able to fix the upper level to? How many, two, plus a fully retracted/collapsed lock point?

    This could be done similar to a pull-along suitcase, with a telescoping handle, but depending on the weight of the top unit, you might have to build your own, or have it custom done.  [sorry can't seem to remove the strikethough...wth?]


  14. 1 hour ago, Notes_Norton said:

    ...but our leaders need to choose the lesser of the evils for the population, not the best solution for their bank accounts (which is what too many of them are doing).

    Insights and incites by Notes.

    and their re-election campaign coffers...

    I was surprised that Trump actually is finally agreeing that wearing a mask is a good idea, four months later...but the damage he already has done can not be undone.


  15. Can be done for less than that...SD, Lindy and Lollar P90s can be got for about 200-225 a pair, CTS pots another $6 each=$24, I'd put a better switch in, too, about $20 [Switchcraft or Stewmac Golden Age], and a new orange drop cap $2, so under $300 in upgrades and voila, a good semi hollowbody rockabilly beast.

    I would also add a roller bridge[$50-65, the Stew Mac Golden Age is okay, and only ~$35] and a tuning stabilizer [$65], and a Tusq nut [$17]...adding those, rather than change out the licensed Bigsby, which is fine on that guitar with those changes made, so I'd leave it...and this would give you a GREAT guitar.

    If you are not handy, then you need to add the cost of a guitar tech to do these, but if you can solder and use hand tools, and know the tricks about wiring hollowbody guitars [the Kat is almost a true hollowbody, there is a block only under the bridge] these are all simple mods. I do nearly all my own work, but I hate refretting😜

    The Epi case is $120; you might find one used for less, but I have not seen a 'generic' that fits correctly.

    I have a 2001 AlleyKat [MiK by Samick], which was my #1 guitar for almost a decade; I play it more than my ES135, it just feels better to me, and sounds very close, but with it's own je ne sais quoi. Even my old associate from Cerwin Vega, Dan Armstrong, was impressed with the sound and playability of my Alley Kat [he stopped by a band rehearsal one night, turned out he also knew our bassist].

    I can't attest to the quality of the newer 'Kats', but a few minor tweaks was all it needed, and I have it out on a stand behind me as I type. I put a roller bridge on it [even without a Bigsby, because I had one just lying around], did a minor fix on the switch, and replaced the nut. Solid axe!

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