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Need help with strat buzz.


zephyr

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This is a Standard, right? So is it a twin-pivot bridge? I think there must be some way of dampening this.

 

 

Yep. That's why I was thinking about the Teflon tape. Wrap it around each stud so it fills in the gaps between the threading.

Or, perhaps a better made after market set of studs that might fit tighter.

Either way, I'll see when I go in.

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It just might need to be tightened/lowered (and the saddles raised to compensate). Maybe the bushing is loose and needs a bit of glue. Otherwise, it's a great bridge, though. I have three guitars with that bridge. They're all fully floating and they all hold tuning well and offer a smoother trem performance than any of the vintage style Strats I have.

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I've got a Squire Std. Strat that is giving me buzzing problems.

Took it to a tech (a highly recommended one in the southeast Detroit area) and have gone through several tweaking sessions. There seems to be more neck relief than normal and the action seems higher than normal, but I'm still getting considerable buzz on the 5th and 6th strings. Even through the amp. Checked the hardware and neck and everything seems tight. The buzz is indiscriminate of fret position up and down the neck.

Whe I put my ear at various points along the neck, it seems to sound loudest near the nut and near the bridge, but it's hard to pick and listen at the same time.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

 

Get a Tele. It is guaranteed 100% to cure and Strat buzz.

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Well, looks like I'm out of luck. Tech recommended I get one with a rosewood fingerboard instead.

I even tried the teflon tape in the mounting studs. Didn't help at all.

Can't think of anyone else to take it too.

I sent an email to Fender to see if they can help me.

Probably not much chance of that happening though...

I'll have to save up for another one and hope it turns out better.

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I've been talking with Eric at Fender customer relations.

He advised me to take it back to the tech (he is Fender authorized),

and have him look it over again, and possibly contact Fender about warranty options.

This all seems like a lot of work for a $229 guitar...

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Well, I tried another one.

Does the same thing. Maybe even worse.

I remember playing a couple MIM ones and having similar problems.

Although they also had frets popping out and one had a bridge that wasn't mounted correctly.

I'm thinking that there actually might be some incompatibility between maple fingerboards and my particular playing mojo.

I've tried other Strats with rosewood boards that didn't give me this problem, including an HSS version of this same guitar that was really nice. Should have bought it.

I'm gonna try the rosewood version and see how it goes.

Too bad, the maple version was pretty sexy.

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Before I jump to the rosewood fingerboard,

I'm gonna give the GHS Nickel Rockers a try.

Maybe the little bit of extra tension, compressed surface, and darker sounding nickel wrap will be the ticket.

Was thinking about the Daddario half rounds, but figured that they would be a bit too dark.

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Rosewood does not cure buzz issues unfortunately. I have a Squier Strat that I love, and I've owned some expensive guitars over the years (and still do)...I really think it is simply the quality of the bridge, and the saddles specifically.

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Rosewood does not cure buzz issues unfortunately. I have a Squier Strat that I love, and I've owned some expensive guitars over the years (and still do)...I really think it is simply the quality of the bridge, and the saddles specifically.

 

 

Well, it had this issue out of the box (as did the other one I tried a few days ago), and the only things on the bridge that are original at this point are the baseplate, and the mounting studs/bushings, and the mounting studs have teflon tape in the threads, so I want to say it's not them. In addition to different strings, I'm thinking of shimming the neck to get a different break angle over the saddles. After that, I'm at a total loss.

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Well, it had this issue out of the box (as did the other one I tried a few days ago), and the only things on the bridge that are original at this point are the baseplate, and the mounting studs/bushings, and the mounting studs have teflon tape in the threads, so I want to say it's not them. In addition to different strings, I'm thinking of shimming the neck to get a different break angle over the saddles. After that, I'm at a total loss.

 

 

I missed the part about the bridge parts being changed, I have found that the mass of the block does make a difference.....but if changed that certainly is not the problem. The break angle over the saddles being a problem seems unlikely, after all a string through the body guitar has plenty of break angle inherently. Do you still have the string trees attached on the headstock? I have seen this being a problem over the years. I have replaced tuners with graduated height tuners thinking I could get rid of the string trees (as the advertising says), but usually end up putting them back because the sound is deadened if not enough tension. I've also replaced the original string trees with rolling trees, but they were a little higher than the originals and again....not enough tension. Good luck with yours.

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I missed the part about the bridge parts being changed, I have found that the mass of the block does make a difference.....but if changed that certainly is not the problem. The break angle over the saddles being a problem seems unlikely, after all a string through the body guitar has plenty of break angle inherently. Do you still have the string trees attached on the headstock? I have seen this being a problem over the years. I have replaced tuners with graduated height tuners thinking I could get rid of the string trees (as the advertising says), but usually end up putting them back because the sound is deadened if not enough tension. I've also replaced the original string trees with rolling trees, but they were a little higher than the originals and again....not enough tension. Good luck with yours.

 

 

Thanks.

The tuning machines are factory, but it has the upgraded Fender roller string trees.

They actually appear to pull the string down lower than the original bent steel trees.

I only really get the buzz when I pick a wound string somewhere between the middle pickup and the bridge pickup. Only thing I've got left to go on is hope that a different string will have a smaller elliptical movement when played and tame this buzzy rattle.

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Well,

I put the GHS Nickel Rockers on just a few minutes ago.

So far, seems like they have tamed the buzz quite noticeably.

I'm gonna let the neck settle overnight and tweak the truss rod and action tomorrow,

but so far so good.

One thing I noticed is that these strings seem significantly less magnetic.

When I took off the Daddarios, the pickups sucked them down like black holes.

But they don't seem to grab on to these nickel wound strings as much.

I imagine that's part of the reason why these seem to work thus far.

I'll report back after making some adjustments.

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After tweaking it with the GHS 9-42 Nickel Rockers, they were definitely and improvement.

...but still not where I'd like to be.

I just put on a set of the 9-46 Nickel Rockers and so far they seem even better.

A little stiff on the wound strings, but as long as the plain strings keep some elasticity, I don't think I'll mind too much.

Have to let it settle and tweak it a bit more.

I'll report back when I've finished tinkering.

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Pretty much have it set!

Took out some relief, lowered the pickups a touch, and tweaked the intonation.

Action is a little high, but still manageable.

I just finished practicing my "pain face" for the last hour!

Woo Hoo!

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