Trem system newbie asks...

[Duncan113]

To set the scene...During the 80s, when I first picked up a guitar, while every other guitarist was overdosing on tremolo abuse, I was going in the opposite direction. Being principally inspired by Steve Morse, I had decided to pick every note and use a standard bridge. I did this, developing my alternate picking pretty darn well. Now, as I pick up the guitar again seriously for the first time in years, and wanting now to develop legato technique including the use of a trem, I find myself a rank amateur in this department. So me start with these two questions:

 

1) Since I never used a locking trem system before, I am still having great trouble figuring out how to manage the tuning of the strings. For example, the fine tuners only have a certain range, and I find that sometimes after locking down the strings at the nut, I run out of range, as it were, when trying to tune the strings.

 

2) I have a Chinese N4, which is nice, but I find it goes out of tune every two seconds, and I keep wondering if there is a way to "lock down" the bridge perhaps by adding in more of the springs in the back. If the bridge floated around less, I wonder, would the tuning be more stable.

 

Thanks all

[poolshark]

Regarding the first problem, make sure your fine tuners are set in the middle of their range when you unlock the nut and tune your strings. Before you lock anything down, make sure your strings are well stretched - for a Floyded guitar, I generally just tune up, work the tremolo hard, tune up again, maybe pull on the strings some, tune up again, etc. At that point, you should be able to lock the strings at the nut and stay pretty well in tune with the fine tuners; I don't think I've had to unlock the nut on my Charvel since I changed the strings last. If the fine tuners do happen to run out of range, unlock the nut, set your fine tuners in the middle of their range and tune again.

 

On the second problem, I don't really know anything about the N4. If it has a recessed cavity below the tremolo, you likely won't be able to lock it without extra hardware, such as a tremol-no. If it's a non-recessed guitar, you should be able to 'deck' the tremolo by tightening the spring claw in the back of the guitar; you may need to add springs for this, depending on what string gauge you run.

[skibob]

There are certain techniques for setting up a Floyd. You need to balance out the string tension and the spring tension. It's especially important to set them up correctly if you're using it full float (you can pull up or down).

 

The basic technique I use is

1. Remove the back plate and block the trem between the back of the trem block and the wall of the cavity so the bridge is level with the body.

2. Unhook the center spring.

3. Set the fine tuners in the middle of their range.

4. Change your strings, stretch them and get them in tune with the headstock tuners.

5. When the tuning is stable lock the nut.

6. Check the tuning with the fine tuners, adjust if necessary.

7. Hook up the trem spring and unblock the trem.

8. Check the tuning of the A string. Adjust with the spring claw screws. When the A string is in tune the rest should also be pretty close and the trem should be level. Your trem is now set up and tuning should be stable.

 

There are a bunch of variations on this technique but that's the way I do it and it works for me.

 

There are various ways to block the trem so that it only dives. You basically have to install either a shim or "trem stop" in front of the trem block. That way if you break a string it will stay in tune.

[Floyd Rosenbomb]

First, please do not lock the floyd trem down. The Floyd Rose system is an incredibly stable one, once the user understands how to set the system up. It's normal for them to stay in perfect tune for months at a time with hard use, the key is simply setting it up right from the get go.

 

 

Things you must understand about the system.

1. Spring tension must equal string tension. You can visually check this by looking at the guitar from the side, you'll see the angle of the trem base. This angle needs to be parallel to the top surface of the guitar body.

This is achieved by adjusting the screws on the claw at the under the guitar, and by adjusting the string tension at the tuners. You simply chase it down. This seems to be the hardest part for new floyd owners, but it is what sets up the system. Again, you'll be adjusting the spring tension with the screws at the claw, and balancing string tension at the headstock tuners, by doing both, and making the tensions equal, you get the bridge, and the knife edges on the bridge, to sit nice and flat against the 2 posts. If you get this right, which is not too hard, you'll have really reliable tuning. It might need some fine adjustment as new strings stretch out down the road, but once it settles in you will be good.

 

Once you have the bridge flat and in line with the body, and you also have the guitar in perfect tune with the set screws to a mid point position, then you can lock down the nut clamps. You will then fine tune as needed, should take just a little bit of adjusting.

 

2. Never adjust the 2 main posts on your Floyd with the trem under string and spring tension. This will blunt the knife edges at the point where the system rests on the 2 posts. There are a couple ways to handle this. They way I like is to simply remove the springs from the claw with needle nose pliers. Once you have these 3 springs off, the tension is off the posts and you can go at adjusting height. This is also the easiest way to remove the whole trem from the body.

 

3. Once you have the angle of the trem set you go about doing the final tuning. You what to press the trem arm down and let it return to neutral for each string as you tune.

 

Hope that was clear, I'll follow up if need be.

[Floyd Rosenbomb]

1. Remove the back plate and block the trem between the back of the trem block and the wall of the cavity so the bridge is level with the body.

 

 

I agree with your post, just wanted to pass along that blocking to get the bridge level is not a necessary step. The key really is just looking at the system form the side. It is very easy to make adjustments by simply reading the trem. For example, if the trem is pointing up, the claw needs to be tightened down and the tension at the headstock tuners needs to be lessened.

 

The only reason I bring this up is that the effort that goes into blocking the block in a perfectly level way is extra. One just needs to adjust it in the direction that it needs to go. Your eye will see when it is level and then you can go about really fine tuning it.

 

I just see that the blocking is a harmless, but unnecessary step. And I post that not to pick on your post, but that perhaps it will help the OP more clearly understand what we are talking about.

[skibob]

I agree with your post, just wanted to pass along that blocking to get the bridge level is not a necessary step. The key really is just looking at the system form the side. It is very easy to make adjustments by simply reading the trem. For example, if the trem is pointing up, the claw needs to be tightened down and the tension at the headstock tuners needs to be lessened. The only reason I bring this up is that the effort that goes into blocking the block in a perfectly level way is extra. One just needs to adjust it in the direction that it needs to go. Your eye will see when it is level and then you can go about really fine tuning it. I just see that the blocking is a harmless, but unnecessary step. And I post that not to pick on your post, but that perhaps it will help the OP more clearly understand what we are talking about.

 

We cool. Like I said, many variations on the technique.

 

The reason I prefer to block it is just to make the initial stretching and tuning process easier. That way it's like working with a hardtail. I have a block of wood made up that is the correct size to just pop in there so it really doesn't take me any more time.

[bubkus_jones]

We cool. Like I said, many variations on the technique. The reason I prefer to block it is just to make the initial stretching and tuning process easier. That way it's like working with a hardtail. I have a block of wood made up that is the correct size to just pop in there so it really doesn't take me any more time.

 

This is how I do it, too. So much simpler, especially for someone not all that familiar with Floyds and similar systems.