Members Markee Posted November 5, 2005 Members Share Posted November 5, 2005 Hey Zen, try reversing the wires on the speaker. Check with a nine volt battery to make sure your speakers push out instead of suck in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted November 5, 2005 Members Share Posted November 5, 2005 Originally posted by Crescent Seven Pull one out and see what model they are. Peavey has the parameters on their website. C7 good call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zenfascist Posted November 5, 2005 Members Share Posted November 5, 2005 Okay, here's what the wiring in my cab looks like: I think someone did something wrong. Is that how it's supposed to look? I know very little about speaker wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 Originally posted by zenfascist Okay, here's what the wiring in my cab looks like: I think someone did something wrong. Is that how it's supposed to look? I know very little about speaker wiring. Is that a 2x or a 4x cab? It's really quite simple to wire them in cleanly and correctly, and I recommend it, because it's not wired right and it looks like they used telephone wire for the lead to the plug. Burdizzos, I think a set of wiring schematics for 1x, 2x, 4x, and 8x cabs would fit fabulously in this thread. I'll try to find some later tonite... C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 I drew these up. If they're wrong let me know. C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted November 6, 2005 Author Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 From Avatar Speakers: Series 2 x 4 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load 2 x 8 Ohm speaker = 16 Ohm load 2 x 16 Ohm speaker = 32 Ohm load Parallel 2 x 4 Ohm speaker = 2 Ohm load 2 x 8 Ohm speaker = 4 Ohm load 2 x 16 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load Series / Parallel 4 x 8 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load 4 x 16 Ohm speaker = 16 Ohm load Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zenfascist Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 Where can I find the wire to properly connect this stuff? Is there going to be soldering involved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 Originally posted by zenfascist Where can I find the wire to properly connect this stuff? Is there going to be soldering involved? Regular speaker wire works good, but get the single strand stuff. If you try to do it with the double-strand wire you'll probably get your wires crossed. Make sure you use 2 different colors, also, it help alot.As far as soldering, you should do it on the speakers if you can; if not, get some blade terminal connectors, crimp 'em on the wire, and slide them on the terminal. The input jack should definitely be soldered. Some people aren't comfortable soldering on their speakers, but if you slide a dry cloth under the carriage to protect the cone, you'll be fine.C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zenfascist Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 That's what my jack looks like. I know the pics aren't great, but I'm confused as to which part is positive and which part is negative (where's the tip and the ring?). There are two little prong things, as you can see, and one is sandwiched in between two other pieces of metal, and one isn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 HHAHA! That's telephone wire! Ok, take a regular guitar cable, and plug it into the jack. The tip of the plug is insulated from the body of the plug; the tip is positive, the body is negative. You'll see that there are 2 places where the jack contacts the plug; each of those pieces is insulated from the other. The part that contacts the tip leads to the positive terminal, and vice versa. Please, please rewire your cab! You'll be so much happier; you might even notice a difference in the sound not using that telephone wire... C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zenfascist Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 Oh, don't worry, I'll be doing it today. And I'll be emailing that stupid bastage that sold it to me to stop wiring his {censored} with phone wire. He seems to be upgrading and selling lots of cabinets and whatnot on ebay, so he deserves to be bitched at. EDIT: And thanks for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 6, 2005 Members Share Posted November 6, 2005 Originally posted by zenfascist Oh, don't worry, I'll be doing it today. And I'll be emailing that stupid bastage that sold it to me to stop wiring his {censored} with phone wire. He seems to be upgrading and selling lots of cabinets and whatnot on ebay, so he deserves to be bitched at. EDIT: And thanks for the help. Always. Send him my cheezy wiring diagrams while you're at it. It looks like he wired it in series, so if those are 16ohm speakers in a 2x10 you've been playing through a 32ohm cab. Even if they're 8ohm speakers you'd have a 16ohm cab... Wire it in parallel and you'll have either a 4 or 8 ohm cab, unless they're 4 ohm speakers, in which case you'd have a 2ohm cab and would want to wire in in series to get to 8ohms. C7 C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted November 7, 2005 Author Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Here's a quick reference on speaker wire and load handling ability. Wire Gauge---- Current Capacity Based on 60C rated cable.10----------------3012----------------2014----------------1516----------------1018-----------------720-----------------522-----------------324-----------------Don't even think about it The quick formula for your amp would be P = (I^2)*R I = sqrt(P/R) Where: I is Current P is PowerR is Speaker impedance So, if you've got a 250 watt amp driving an 8 ohm cab, your amp is putting out 5.5 Amps. The electrical rule of thumb is to go 30% more than you need. This is probably a good idea with speakers and amplifiers as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Where did you get the current vs. AWG chart? I suspect that this will apply only for very short wireruns, and heating might be an issue at that, especially atthe terminations. For longer runs, voltage drop will need to be accounted for, as it will affect damping factor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted November 7, 2005 Author Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Yeah, I thought those looked a bit high. Upon further review, those were for semi rigid cables rated to 80C. I'll change them to the standard 60C rated stuff that most of us are going to be using. Most of us are using less than 6 foot runs for speaker cable, so I don't think voltage drops and damping really need to be considered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 80 degrees C is indeed pretty toasty:D Most certainly, for 6 feet, voltage drop isn't an issue, but for someone thinking the recommendations are universal while building speaker cables for a PA for example, might be surprised at the results;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted November 7, 2005 Author Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Originally posted by agedhorse 80 degrees C is indeed pretty toasty:D Most certainly, for 6 feet, voltage drop isn't an issue, but for someone thinking the recommendations are universal while building speaker cables for a PA for example, might be surprised at the results;) Anyone pushing 1000+ watts over 50 feet on 20 gauge wire gets what they deserve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos Anyone pushing 1000+ watts over 50 feet on 20 gauge wire gets what they deserve. Lines burned across their floor and hands? What's the big deal?? It only hurts for a few seconds. C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members J. Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Series / Parallel 4 x 8 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load 4 x 16 Ohm speaker = 16 Ohm load This is the exact same wiring scheme only a bit cleaner in my opinion: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Originally posted by burdizzos Anyone pushing 1000+ watts over 50 feet on 20 gauge wire gets what they deserve. Absolutely:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Originally posted by Crescent Seven Lines burned across their floor and hands? What's the big deal?? It only hurts for a few seconds. C7 And it feels so good when it stops:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted November 7, 2005 Members Share Posted November 7, 2005 Originally posted by agedhorse And it feels so good when it stops:D It feels even better when you get done picking the melted plastic out of your burns. I had some wires catch fire in my car when I wired my CB straight out of my fuse panel (I was 16 and stupid), so I reached down and grabbed the wire and pulled. I still have a scar on the inside of my left hand from that. C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zenfascist Posted November 8, 2005 Members Share Posted November 8, 2005 Well, I rewired it. I haven't had to solder anything since metal shop, so they ended up a little messy. No biggie, though, everything works fine. I still have a farting cabinet though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted November 11, 2005 Members Share Posted November 11, 2005 just wondering...since i'm fairly worthless with a soldering iron... would the new improved avatar crossover setup work well with the burdizzos mod? i've ordered one of dave's new jack plate assemblies before, to reload into an avatar cab (mostly for the speakon jack), but i left the stock tweeter in it. i'm thinking of doing the burd mod on my peavey 4x12 and possibly on an avatar 1x12 that i might be picking up too... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted November 11, 2005 Author Members Share Posted November 11, 2005 I' imagine that the new Avatar crossover would work fine with a galaxy driver, the downside is that hte crossover point is probably around 2kHz. One of the benefits of using a galaxy driver is that it has frequency response down to 100 Hz. If it is crossed over at 500 Hz, you get to enjoy the smooth midrange that the driver offers. If it is crossed over at 2kHz, it will sound better than the stock horn, but its full potential will not be realized. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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