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[FAQ]Speaker building


burdizzos

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Originally posted by zenfascist

Okay, here's what the wiring in my cab looks like:


DSCN0389.jpg

DSCN0390.jpg

I think someone did something wrong.
:confused:
Is that how it's supposed to look? I know very little about speaker wiring.

 

Is that a 2x or a 4x cab? It's really quite simple to wire them in cleanly and correctly, and I recommend it, because it's not wired right and it looks like they used telephone wire for the lead to the plug.

 

Burdizzos, I think a set of wiring schematics for 1x, 2x, 4x, and 8x cabs would fit fabulously in this thread. :thu:

I'll try to find some later tonite...

C7

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From Avatar Speakers:

 

Series

 

2 x 4 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load

2 x 8 Ohm speaker = 16 Ohm load

2 x 16 Ohm speaker = 32 Ohm load

 

wirserie2.gif

 

 

Parallel

 

2 x 4 Ohm speaker = 2 Ohm load

2 x 8 Ohm speaker = 4 Ohm load

2 x 16 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load

 

wirpara2.gif

 

 

 

 

Series / Parallel

 

4 x 8 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load

4 x 16 Ohm speaker = 16 Ohm load

 

 

wirserpa2.gif

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Originally posted by zenfascist

Where can I find the wire to properly connect this stuff? Is there going to be soldering involved?

 

 

Regular speaker wire works good, but get the single strand stuff. If you try to do it with the double-strand wire you'll probably get your wires crossed. Make sure you use 2 different colors, also, it help alot.

As far as soldering, you should do it on the speakers if you can; if not, get some blade terminal connectors, crimp 'em on the wire, and slide them on the terminal. The input jack should definitely be soldered. Some people aren't comfortable soldering on their speakers, but if you slide a dry cloth under the carriage to protect the cone, you'll be fine.

C7

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DSCN0394.jpg

 

jack.jpg

 

That's what my jack looks like. I know the pics aren't great, but I'm confused as to which part is positive and which part is negative (where's the tip and the ring?). There are two little prong things, as you can see, and one is sandwiched in between two other pieces of metal, and one isn't. :confused:

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HHAHA! That's telephone wire!:D

 

Ok, take a regular guitar cable, and plug it into the jack. The tip of the plug is insulated from the body of the plug; the tip is positive, the body is negative. You'll see that there are 2 places where the jack contacts the plug; each of those pieces is insulated from the other. The part that contacts the tip leads to the positive terminal, and vice versa.

Please, please rewire your cab! You'll be so much happier; you might even notice a difference in the sound not using that telephone wire...:D

C7

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Oh, don't worry, I'll be doing it today. And I'll be emailing that stupid bastage that sold it to me to stop wiring his {censored} with phone wire. He seems to be upgrading and selling lots of cabinets and whatnot on ebay, so he deserves to be bitched at. :)

 

EDIT: And thanks for the help. :thu:

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Originally posted by zenfascist

Oh, don't worry, I'll be doing it today. And I'll be emailing that stupid bastage that sold it to me to stop wiring his {censored} with phone wire. He seems to be upgrading and selling lots of cabinets and whatnot on ebay, so he deserves to be bitched at.
:)

EDIT: And thanks for the help.
:thu:

 

Always.

Send him my cheezy wiring diagrams while you're at it. It looks like he wired it in series, so if those are 16ohm speakers in a 2x10 you've been playing through a 32ohm cab.:mad: Even if they're 8ohm speakers you'd have a 16ohm cab...

Wire it in parallel and you'll have either a 4 or 8 ohm cab, unless they're 4 ohm speakers, in which case you'd have a 2ohm cab and would want to wire in in series to get to 8ohms.

C7

C7

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Here's a quick reference on speaker wire and load handling ability.

 

 

Wire Gauge---- Current Capacity Based on 60C rated cable.

10----------------30

12----------------20

14----------------15

16----------------10

18-----------------7

20-----------------5

22-----------------3

24-----------------Don't even think about it

 

 

The quick formula for your amp would be P = (I^2)*R

 

I = sqrt(P/R)

 

Where:

I is Current

P is Power

R is Speaker impedance

 

 

So, if you've got a 250 watt amp driving an 8 ohm cab, your amp is putting out 5.5 Amps.

 

 

The electrical rule of thumb is to go 30% more than you need. This is probably a good idea with speakers and amplifiers as well.

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Where did you get the current vs. AWG chart? I suspect that this will apply only for very short wireruns, and heating might be an issue at that, especially atthe terminations. For longer runs, voltage drop will need to be accounted for, as it will affect damping factor.

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Yeah, I thought those looked a bit high. Upon further review, those were for semi rigid cables rated to 80C.

 

I'll change them to the standard 60C rated stuff that most of us are going to be using.

 

Most of us are using less than 6 foot runs for speaker cable, so I don't think voltage drops and damping really need to be considered.

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80 degrees C is indeed pretty toasty:D

 

Most certainly, for 6 feet, voltage drop isn't an issue, but for someone thinking the recommendations are universal while building speaker cables for a PA for example, might be surprised at the results;)

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Originally posted by agedhorse

80 degrees C is indeed pretty toasty:D


Most certainly, for 6 feet, voltage drop isn't an issue, but for someone thinking the recommendations are universal while building speaker cables for a PA for example, might be surprised at the results;)

 

 

Anyone pushing 1000+ watts over 50 feet on 20 gauge wire gets what they deserve. ;)

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Series / Parallel

 

4 x 8 Ohm speaker = 8 Ohm load

4 x 16 Ohm speaker = 16 Ohm load

wirserpa2.gif

 

 

This is the exact same wiring scheme only a bit cleaner in my opinion:

247series_parallel.GIF

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Originally posted by agedhorse


And it feels so good when it stops:D

 

It feels even better when you get done picking the melted plastic out of your burns.

I had some wires catch fire in my car when I wired my CB straight out of my fuse panel (I was 16 and stupid), so I reached down and grabbed the wire and pulled.

I still have a scar on the inside of my left hand from that.:mad:

C7

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just wondering...since i'm fairly worthless with a soldering iron...

 

 

would the new improved avatar crossover setup work well with the burdizzos mod? i've ordered one of dave's new jack plate assemblies before, to reload into an avatar cab (mostly for the speakon jack), but i left the stock tweeter in it.

 

i'm thinking of doing the burd mod on my peavey 4x12 and possibly on an avatar 1x12 that i might be picking up too...

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I' imagine that the new Avatar crossover would work fine with a galaxy driver, the downside is that hte crossover point is probably around 2kHz.

 

One of the benefits of using a galaxy driver is that it has frequency response down to 100 Hz. If it is crossed over at 500 Hz, you get to enjoy the smooth midrange that the driver offers. If it is crossed over at 2kHz, it will sound better than the stock horn, but its full potential will not be realized.

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