Members bnyswonger Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 Tell me that those are bolts and not screws attaching the speakers to the board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bassman1956 Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 Just went through this with the GK MB150S I got for a song. The friend who fixed the amp found 2 of the speaker mounting holes stripped, and several others nearly so. From the factory, they were just drilled and tapped into the 1/8" aluminum. The speaker was mounted from the front, with only machine screws into the aluminum plate. Schleppin' and rockin' had taken their toll. So he clocked the driver 20 degrees, drilled and tapped new holes, and then ran machine screws through the holes from the back side, with loc-tite, and then mounted the speaker from the front with washers and nuts. Man, it sounds tight! SOME kind of T-bolt or bolt/nut setup is preferrable. My guess is that's why they cringed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Renfield Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 It looks great, but the OCD in me is twitching at how all of the mounting screws for the drivers are not lined up symmetrically. If I did it I would have wired the quads vertically in rows of 4 to keep it all neat and easier to locate/troubleshoot, with the last 4 filling the bottom-most 4 holes.But I fully admit to my neuroticisms. I'm a symmetry freak, don't take my opinion personally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bnyswonger Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 T-nuts or plain nuts and bolts on anything that gets shook hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted March 19, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2008 But I fully admit to my neuroticisms. I'm a symmetry freak, don't take my opinion personally.Me too! Me too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted March 19, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2008 T-nuts or plain nuts and bolts on anything that gets shook hard. Right. It is the difference between making something that works well in new condition and making something that works well for decades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Rowka Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 It looks great, but the OCD in me is twitching at how all of the mounting screws for the drivers are not lined up symmetrically. If I did it I would have wired the quads vertically in rows of 4 to keep it all neat and easier to locate/troubleshoot, with the last 4 filling the bottom-most 4 holes. +1 and +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted March 19, 2008 Author Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 If I did it I would have wired the quads vertically in rows of 4 to keep it all neat and easier to locate/troubleshoot, with the last 4 filling the bottom-most 4 holes. meh. it happened like it happened. if i wanted to unsolder one driver, i could use your idea (inverted) but it really doesn't matter that much to me. YMMV. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 Right. It is the difference between making something that works well in new condition and making something that works well for decades. I'm built countless sub boxes for cars and never once used T-nuts. #6 coarse thread screws with a pilot hole and a drop of glue work amazingly well. Given the tight quarters for these speakers, using T-nuts would make a difficult task an outright pain in the ass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 the problem with that is that, while burdi did an awesome job on the cab, the driver holes are not perfectly round. i've had to adjust screw hole placement to get the screws into good wood... I had a feeling that would happen. That's the drawback of me building the cab without the speakers on hand. I cut the speaker holes a bit over sized to ensure that they would drop in and give you some mounting wiggle room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Renfield Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 I'm built countless sub boxes for cars and never once used T-nuts. #6 coarse thread screws with a pilot hole and a drop of glue work amazingly well.Given the tight quarters for these speakers, using T-nuts would make a difficult task an outright pain in the ass. Very true. Nothing wrong with just wood screws at all. Done it enough myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted March 19, 2008 Author Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 I'm built countless sub boxes for cars and never once used T-nuts. #6 coarse thread screws with a pilot hole and a drop of glue work amazingly well. Given the tight quarters for these speakers, using T-nuts would make a difficult task an outright pain in the ass. glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted March 19, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2008 I'm built countless sub boxes for cars and never once used T-nuts. #6 coarse thread screws with a pilot hole and a drop of glue work amazingly well.I spent last night repairing a pair of speakers made in 1965. If they would have been glued into the baffle board I would have been swearing at them a lot more than I was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 glue? You've only got four in, right? Honestly, I wouldn't worry too much about it. The glue is optional. I didn't put glue in the screw holes for my 2x12 that's been rocking for several years without a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 I spent last night repairing a pair of speakers made in 1965. If they would have been glued into the baffle board I would have been swearing at them a lot more than I was. Uh no, glue in the pilot hole. It helps to lock the screw in place and it shatters when you put a screwdriver on it after it sets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bnyswonger Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 Given the tight quarters for these speakers, using T-nuts would make a difficult task an outright pain in the ass. No argument there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted March 19, 2008 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2008 Uh no, glue in the pilot hole. It helps to lock the screw in place and it shatters when you put a screwdriver on it after it sets. Remounting the speakers after pulling them off the baffle was made significantly easier thanks to the mounting bolts and nuts. I'm not saying the concept of screwing them in isn't fine, it just isn't my optimal choice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 Remounting the speakers after pulling them off the baffle was made significantly easier thanks to the mounting bolts and nuts. I'm not saying the concept of screwing them in isn't fine, it just isn't my optimal choice. I agree, but since MLW must put 64 screws in that baffle, he wouldn't get to hear the cab until Memorial Day if he attempted to use T-nuts. On my upcoming 2x18 PA sub cab, I will be using either #10 or 1/4 bolts with t-nuts and lock washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted March 19, 2008 Author Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 something else burdi - and i'm not trying to be an ass, but if you/we are going to do more of these cabs with these itty bitty drivers, one of us ought to look into a hole saw. i think making the driver holes perfectly round would be much easier that way, and then i'd be able to perfectly align the screw holes for each driver...:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 As a result of this project, I purchased a higher quality circle cutting jig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bnyswonger Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 The heavier drivers do really need the 2 part fasteners. The more I thought about those little fellers, the less it seemed essential. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members burdizzos Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 The heavier drivers do really need the 2 part fasteners. The more I thought about those little fellers, the less it seemed essential. Yep, there's a significant difference between those 2 pound drivers and an E140. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members skiscem Posted March 19, 2008 Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 im sorry for being a lil out of the topic but what kind of drivers are you using? where did you get them? i am planing to make a really small cab and these spakers seem perfect thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted March 19, 2008 Author Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 im sorry for being a lil out of the topic but what kind of drivers are you using? where did you get them?i am planing to make a really small cab and these spakers seem perfectthanks dayton audio 5" aluminum cones from partsexpress.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mlwarriner Posted March 19, 2008 Author Members Share Posted March 19, 2008 if this box doesn't go low enough, how many 7" drivers could you stuff into an identical box efficiently?:poke: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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