Members BeeTL Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 Damn...I should have known I should give citations, background and qualifications... For what it's worth, I'm 42 and have been wearing suits for 20 years, and usually have 3-5 in the closet, depending on how often I'm in the field, and how much my weight has changed. I usually find a men's clothier in the town where I live, and stick with that one. I have bought the last 7-10 suits at Jos. A Banks. I have worn 2-button pleated and cuffed suits up until now, usually with button-down shirts. I have recently switched to 3 button (so '90's) and since this was a change, I asked the Manager's advice. That is what I parroted above. My comments were meant as guidelines, so I'll edit the post to minimize confusion and concede my ignorance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members King Kashue Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 For what it's worth, I'm 42 and have been wearing suits for 20 years, and usually have 3-5 in the closet, depending on how often I'm in the field, and how much my weight has changed. I usually find a men's clothier in the town where I live, and stick with that one. I have bought the last 7-10 suits at Jos. A Banks. I have worn 2-button pleated and cuffed suits up until now, usually with button-down shirts. I have recently switched to 3 button (so '90's) and since this was a change, I asked the Manager's advice. That is what I parroted above. My comments were meant as guidelines, so I'll edit the post to minimize confusion and concede my ignorance... I like Jos A. Banks, and have several suits from there (I've purchased probably 3 suits and 3 or 4 more jackets from them this year alone). What's funny is that I know for a fact that their suits don't follow that rule. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members King Kashue Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 I heard a rumor once that was probably completely wrong: I feel that three button might be the way to go, but I'm an ignorant monkey who doesn't know any better. Mate, they were questions...just questions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BeeTL Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 Mate, they were questions...just questions... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Brother Mango Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 The people who are stating these rules about suits, how many do you own? What settings establish these rules? Again, I've spent more than a decade in suits and have never seen a set connection between pleats, cuffs, and the number of buttons on the suit... Most suits (i.e., any nice suit) will come with the pants unhemmed and it's a choice of the purchaser... They are, but there are styles for which they are appropriate. The only suit for which there is a "cuff rule" is the Tux, which requires un-cuffed pant hems. In general, cuffs will look "normal", no cuffs are far more likely to look "odd"... Unfortunately, to many folks, a black dude + a bow tie = Farrakhan associations... At the very least you're likely to get a "wow, dork with a bow tie" reaction...You've got to be a styling mofo to pull off a bow tie outside of black/white tie... Here's another piece of advice for folks who only want one suit and want it to be nice (and are likely to stay the same size): Go to a bespoke tailor and have a suit made for you. It will cost more, but the difference between off-the-rack then tailored and custom-made can be significant... 1. How much might a custom suit cost? 2. You said what I was getting around to saying: I certainly have to be careful about wearing a bowtie, or risk being tied to the Nation of Islam. Still, I think there's a definite place for more bowties. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Brother Mango Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 You may be correct, I bought separates because the suits didn't have enough (drop?) between the jackets and slacks. Hallelujah! You mentioned something I haven't had to deal with in a long time because I haven't purchased a suit in a while. Back then, I needed a 38" jacket and 30" waist. Buying a suit was a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 11, 2008 CMS Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 Rergarding the 2-button/3-button, pleats & cuffs vs no debate; these decisions are typically made based on your height and body type, not on some sort of suit rule. The more portly among us don't look as good in a 3-button as a 2. Someone who's very thin generally looks a little better in a 3-button, and with pleated pants. Cuffs or no is generally dependent upon how how conservative a look you want to portray. But all of these are generalisms and quite flexible. It is much more important that a suit fit well and be comfortable. Nothing sucks worse than being stuck with the bag on all day and being uncomfortable. To that end, King Kashue's advice to have your suit made by a tailer, or at the very least extensively altered off the rack, is quite sound. When I was wearing suits 5 days a week, I favored the custom tailored to the point I just donated the others to Goodwill, as I wasn't wearing them enough. Oh.....and if you are going to wear suits as your day-to-day workwear, get two pair or pants for each suit. You'll wear the pants out much faster than the jacket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CMS Author Craig Vecchione Posted August 11, 2008 CMS Author Share Posted August 11, 2008 1. How much might a custom suit cost?2. You said what I was getting around to saying: I certainly have to be careful about wearing a bowtie, or risk being tied to the Nation of Islam.Still, I think there's a definite place for more bowties. If they look good on you, wear 'em! A custom suit is priced according to fabric. Something with some really nice wool from Scotland or Italy will set you back a couple grand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members King Kashue Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 1. How much might a custom suit cost? Like Craig said, it's by fabric. You're likely to be spending near a grand, minimum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members brotherbass Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 I have a huge problem in purchasing suites...I am a 52 jacket and a 38 in pants. When and why are pleats not in style? I have always loved a crisp pleat in my pants and a nice starched shirt. I will admit that I wear a suit at least twice a week and own several, but I am not much into fashion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members L-1329 Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 I have a huge problem in purchasing suites...I am a 52 jacket and a 38 in pants. When and why are pleats not in style? I have always loved a crisp pleat in my pants and a nice starched shirt. I will admit that I wear a suit at least twice a week and own several, but I am not much into fashion. Pleats are absolutely in style, as are the three button jackets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ChuckyB Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 The correct: Charcoal. Goes for any occassion. Depending on your build you may have wider or narrower lapels. Flat front, 2button. If you have a broader chest than you should opt for a 2.5 in. Lapel. If more narrow then go with a 2in notch or 2 1/4 Peak lapel. If you feel a bit ritzy look for one with a second ticket pocket on the right hand side above the besommed flap pockets. Too much break is the enemy. Little to no break is preferred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ec437 Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 Like Craig said, it's by fabric. You're likely to be spending near a grand, minimum. Unless you're in Hong Kong or Vietnam, in which occasion you can get it done for a few hundred. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members King Kashue Posted August 11, 2008 Members Share Posted August 11, 2008 Unless you're in Hong Kong or Vietnam, in which occasion you can get it done for a few hundred. Yeah, I've got friends who have amazing suits from Hong Kong, India, etc...If they hadn't told me I'd never have guessed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.