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Just starting--


Plan_G

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http://www.dmxsoft.com/manuals/index.php?oem=SUNLITE&na=MPf&langman=en

Seems like if you follow these instructions you'll get the job done.

The 3d vizualizer isn't very accurate as far as representing what lights will look like live.

I would say to use a LED par fixture that is in there from Chauvet or American DJ to get an 'idea' of how the program works.

Learning the basics of the program in virtual mode will get you around the headaches of real time programing when you pull the trigger and get some lights of your own.

I'm getting ready to pull out my laptop and set up my lights for a show in 2weeks so I will have some stuff ready to go.Set up my floor board and Rock Out!

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thanks for the tips. I FINALLY got freestyler to interface with the visualizer... I hadn't turned the fader up. :facepalm: I did and then, wow, the fixture on the visualizer lit up :)

The Puck RGBA has a file for Freestyler that I downloaded, but not for the visualizer. I'm unsure how to make one of those, or how to choose a fixture that would react the same way - if anyone knows, please share :)

I'm going to pull the trigger on the lights, hopefully today... and get the controller... Anyone know if the auto programs built in with the Pucks run through the software?

I need to do a lot more studying on the software.

thank you~
-g

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Hi again -

Cables--- It looks like 5 foot DMX cables are the shortest out there, those I need for the trees, correct? So with 2 Pucks on each tree, 2 short cables. Now... depending on the situation, do you guys always chain one tree to the next? or can you route the cables separately to the dmx controller if it's less distance? (then I guess there'd have to be a "Y" connector of some kind.) Do the data cables get less accurate with length? I know in other applications I always use the shortest runs of computer cables for less of a chance of errors. And are 2 25' cables as safe as 1 50' cable as far as data goes?

I don't want the light to get here and not be able to plug them in :) I know BLACK power cords. (guy I'm replacing is using the dreaded orange). He's also running full length extension cords to his dimmer packs (regular par cans). I don't need to do that, correct? No dimmer packs to control at this point. Is there any reason to not use 'Y' connecting power cords from the stand and then running just one cord to the nearest outlet?

If anybody knows where to get the best deal on the cords my ears (eyes?) are open as well :)

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Yup theres a learning curve.I posted above how to build a fixture file for your 3d visualizer, just follow the instructions provided.
I haven't seen a manual for the Pucks yet so I can't tell you how the auto programs in them will work.

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Unless you purchase a DMX splitter, the data stream must run down one continious cable run.


Controller - to first tree - to second tree - etc.



that makes sense when you put it like that :facepalm:

thoughts on multiple 25' cords put together for applications needing that?

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It would be well worth your time to learn how to solder cables if you're going to be working with DMX. You can make custom length cables very easily and much cheaper than you would buy them in stock lengths. I bought bulk DMX cable and saved even more. Since I went wireless DMX I've been cannibalizing the 25 footers I've made, though. At least when I finish a cable, I know that it's passed my inspection... never had a problem yet.

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I have 8 chinese LED RBG par cans and I really wish I had waited for the LED Pucks or the RBGA pucks. The cans are big and bulky and the pucks look so nice and neat.
The cans are essentially REAL par can bodies with LED guts. No need for the package to be that big.
I highly recommend going to the pucks.
The cans are also not very durable, drop one off the stage and they are at minimum dented and at worst the components have broken off in side and they are done. My feeling is the pucks would be no worse, and more versative for positioning.
No I don't have any, YET!

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I know I've bought 18" and 24" DMX cables somewhere. I use them from light to light on the trees. Keep looking, they are out there. I run around 100' of DMX cable total in a typical show. No problems at all. My guess is most run well more then 100' of it with no issues.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Get the Enttec Pro. It's worth the little bit of extra money as it's more stable. You'll wish you had, if you start experiencing flaky lighting with the base version of the Enttec. I feel the little bit of extra cost in trade for stability is well worth it to have less to worry about during a show.

 

Ok, just got back after a week and a half trip... my 4 pucks, all my cords, and interface are here. I spent some time getting to know the lights in stand-alone mode.

 

why does the ENTTEC Pro take 5-pin cable???!!!

 

I don't know what to do now, I didn't see this mentioned anywhere before :( My cords are 3-pin DMX cable, as are the lamps. Please help!

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Ok, just got back after a week and a half trip... my 4 pucks, all my cords, and interface are here. I spent some time getting to know the lights in stand-alone mode.


why does the ENTTEC Pro take 5-pin cable???!!!


I don't know what to do now, I didn't see this mentioned anywhere before
:(
My lights are 3-pin DMX cable, as are the lamps. Please help!

 

The world of professional lighting uses 5pin cable for most things. You need a 5pin male to 3pin female adapter. This is something that you might be able to pick up at Geetar Center, but not many stores stock it: http://www.guitarcenter.com/American-DJ-5-Pin-Male-XLR-to-3-Pin-Female-XLR-Turnaround-331773-i1371307.gc

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XLR is the type of connector. Also, if this cable is in fact mic cable, it's only 6" or so which won't really make a difference.

 

Thanks guys, I just didn't want to compromise anything. I know I'm not supposed to use mic cables :) (still think it's dumb they use the same connectors if the cables are different...:) )

 

Well, since I can't use Freestyler with the lights yet, I got familiar with the digital display and buttons on the back of the PUCk lights. Then I hooked up one as master and one as slave and used a DMX cable to sync them. Pretty cool so far!

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You can get away with good quality mic cables for short stuff ,but if it's real important use DMX cable.AND if for some reason your having problems with "flickering" in your lights try a DMX terminator,pretty in-expensive but in some of the places I play I gotta have it .

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Give me shout when you get your adapter if you have any questions on freestyler.

Thank you very much! I was wondering about a terminator, kinda had it on the back burner with only 4 lights, but maybe I'll pop for one where ever I buy the adapter. I'll keep working on my freestyler stuff in the meantime, but I know it will be easier to program the lights with, well, the lights ;) I'll hit ya up when I'm set.

already got a question from the 'gallery'... "I know those aren't mic cables, but will the work if we need a mic cable?" :rolleyes: My guess is the answer is "yes"... but now I know what I can do with this new label maker I got :facepalm:

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  • 3 weeks later...
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Well, I went to practice yesterday and did a test run. Last night I programmed some more sequences. I can't get everything in Freestyler to work just right, but I was able to quickly react and get things onto a different track. Tonight's the night... I can't wait till I can afford a couple more lights!

 

and I want to thank everyone for your awesome help and advice~~

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