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PV2600 bridge to 4 ohm load


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I think I've finally made up my mind for upgrading my subs. I'm planning on going with a pair of used Sonic 18's, loaded with RCF L18-851KN drivers. These are 8 ohm speakers rated at 1000W program.

 

I'm also going to pick up a PV2600 to power them. Is there anything wrong with running the PV2600 in bridged mono and daisy chaining the speakers for a 4 ohm load? The manual only shows specs for 8 ohm bridged.

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There are different versions of the PDF manual online. The most recent appears to be dated 2004. However all the ones I saw seem to say the same thing. In the paragraph portions they make reference to either 4 or 8 ohms bridged mode. They do say 8 ohms is preferred. In the specification table at the back they only list 8 ohms in the bridged options.

 

This is the raw text data from the spec portion, which appears to be the same in all versions of the manual I saw:

 

Specifications PV

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The PV2600 in question is an older version; found used at a local music store for $400, which is about all we can afford right now with the purchase of the subs. (I should say all the others are WILLING to spend - band purchase...)

 

Is there a better way to get 1000W a peice to these subs without spending $1000 for an amp, or am I asking too much for the budget?

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The PV2600 in question is an older version; found used at a local music store for $400, which is about all we can afford right now with the purchase of the subs. (I should say all the others are WILLING to spend - band purchase...)


Is there a better way to get 1000W apiece to these subs without spending $1000 for an amp, or am I asking too much for the budget?

 

 

I'm not sure $400 is a great price for an older used 2600, as they sell new for about $600. Maybe you can bargain it down a little. For example I paid $450 a few years ago for a new but demo RMX2450 which sells for the the same price as the 2600.

 

IMO all of the major brand amps in this price and output range would be about the same. I like QSC's features and warranty, but that's about all that differentiates them.

 

On a side note, be careful about ''band" purchases...bands break up and then dispersing the goods becomes an issue. It's usually best for one person to own each specific item. I've seen a lot of good friendships dissolve along with the band over gear ownership.

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Our experience with Peavey amps has been very good. I believe we have 5 of them right now. It seems hard to destroy one. They tend to keep on ticking regardless.

 

The specs show 900W at 4 ohms per channel. Hook'um up and see how it sounds.

 

Ed

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I've ran 2ohm loads on each side of my Peavey 2600.

 

I also asked on the Peavey forum about this. They (Aubrey and others) said it was OK. They just do not have a UL rating to advertise it. It will not harm your amp. It would just shut down for a few seconds while it cooled. Maybe long term it would be hard on the amp though.

 

I've been tempted to bridge it into 4ohm to power something like a QW218. But I realize my current little Peavey TLS subs are enough for the kind of shows I do. I'll just rent more subs and amps for the occasional larger show.

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On a side note, be careful about ''band" purchases...bands break up and then dispersing the goods becomes an issue. It's usually best for one person to own each specific item. I've seen a lot of good friendships dissolve along with the band over gear ownership.

 

 

Shared gear gets complicated. One approach is to agree that when one leaves, the others will buy out his share. The other approach, as Craig suggested, it to avoid this entirely and buy by person. We took the Craig approach.

 

Ed

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Shared gear gets complicated. One approach is to agree that when one leaves, the others will buy out his share. The other approach, as Craig suggested, it to avoid this entirely and buy by person. We took the Craig approach.


Ed

 

 

 

In my experience the share-buyout approach never worked. Invariably there's one person who doesn't pay up, and the battle begins, someone either gets screwed or feels that he was, and nobody walks away happy. Plus these situations tend to snowball...one guy leaves, gets paid then another leaves, and the cost to buy out his share is much higher, and again...trouble.

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I know the dreaded band breakup and dividing equipment can be a real pain - I've been through it before. The problem we ran into with this band is that I always owned all the equipment, but at the end of the night they wanted equal pay. So now we buy upgrades as a band -- if things go sour, I'll likely end up with the equipment and just pay them their share in it.

 

Can you point me to the amp on Ebay you're referring to?

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In my experience the share-buyout approach never worked. Invariably there's one person who doesn't pay up, and the battle begins, someone either gets screwed or feels that he was, and nobody walks away happy.

 

 

I've seen it work once, but only once. That's why we took the other approach of individual ownership.

 

Ed

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I know the dreaded band breakup and dividing equipment can be a real pain - I've been through it before. The problem we ran into with this band is that I always owned all the equipment, but at the end of the night they wanted equal pay. So now we buy upgrades as a band -- if things go sour, I'll likely end up with the equipment and just pay them their share in it.


Can you point me to the amp on Ebay you're referring to?

 

 

I solved the equal pay issue by dividing 'jobs' into pay shares. Playing is a share, providing PA is a share, booking is a share, etc. Whomever performed a given service is paid a share of the gig money. If nobody wants to pay to have booking or production handled by someone else, they are given the option of hiring out those services. Seeing how much *that* costs ends any debate.

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I don't know enough about differences in Peavey gear to comment. The one I have works well, takes abuse, and keeps on ticking. However very very very heavy...

 

Peavey makes lots of other newer models. EBay is a good source, but shipping can sometimes be higher due to size and weight.

 

Ed

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Would this really be a better option then? It looks older - I'm not familiar with it at all.

 

 

 

I'd pass. It weighs about 65lb. You can get amps with more power that weigh 20lb. But for not a lot more the 2600 you found is a little lighter and has better features, and is only 2u high instead of 3 or 4u.

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Instead of spending $400 on a used Peavey amp, you could spend $500 and get a new QSC RMX-1850HD which is built to be bridged into 4 ohms or run in 2 ohms stereo. The HD on the end means that it is built to withstand constant bridging. The 1850HD amp bridges 1800 watts @ 4 ohms, which would give each sub around 900 watts.

 

And QSC builds their gear to last! Just watch the video of them throwing gear off a building - you will see how tough that stuff is! And they give you a 6 year warranty right now that will keep you fairly worry free!

 

Just a thought. :thu:

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That RXM1850HD option doesn't sound too bad. A little less power, 900 vs. 1200 per speaker... that wouldn't be a whole lot of difference, would it?

 

No it probably wouldn't make too much of an audible difference... i believe you need to supply 4x the wattage to double the sound output of a speaker. That would mean you would need to supply 3600 watts to each sub to double their output! Supplying 300 watts less shouldn't make too much of a difference in sound level. Plus your speakers will love you and their lives will be most likely lengthened! That's always a plus!

 

However, be careful to not run your amp into hard clipping (i.e. the clip light is solid red all the time) because that will supply a distorted signal to the subs and make them sound awful and most likely blow or harm them.

 

If you need more sound that those 1800 watts will deliver, then you most likely are going to need more subwoofers or bigger more efficient subwoofers. In that case, you are better off either buying another pair of subs and another amp or renting another amp and more subwoofers. Either case, it would be better to spend some more money upfront then to face a recone job on all your speakers, which can be very costly.

 

:thu:

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Ugh, look, those subs are 1000w program, right? that means they're 500w RMS. Why not just buy the PV2600 and give them 550w @ 8ohms each? You dont HAVE to power at 2x the RMS rating. I'm sure I've read that those amps dont really sound nice at 2ohms/4ohms bridge.

Powering at 8ohms stereo will keep the amp nice and happy.

All you're missing is maybe 3dB of headroom at the expense of running your amp hotter, reduced damping factor and more signal loss through cable (yes I know those last two factors are relatively insignificant...but so is 3dB of headroom imho).

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