Members Gravity Posted May 29, 2008 Members Share Posted May 29, 2008 I've had these PA cabs for a long time and one of them lost it's full-range capability. I could drive just the 15" woofer fine when I plugged into the low-range input but when plugging into the full range, only the horn(s) would work. So I finally decided to pull it apart to see if there was anything obviously wrong with the crossover. Here's some pics. They're large so I'll link them. Component sidehttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc241/guyatron/xovercomponents.jpgTrace sidehttp://i215.photobucket.com/albums/cc241/guyatron/xovertrace.jpg I ran some contact cleaner through the jacks and worked a plug in and out a few times. I also touched up solder on the jack terminals but the same problem persisted. I then decided to try replacing the 25 uF electrolytic and in doing so found that one the the leads from that large light blue capacitor (stamped T1 10J100V mexico) had broken off right at the capacitor (I'm assuming it's a cap ... a large non-lytic). Maybe I broke it trying to remove the 'lytic .. I don't know. Sadly, after all that, I realized that the lytic in the crossover was bi-polar and I only had polarized caps ... wouldn't know which way to orient it even if I could put a polarized cap in there. This is how we learn ... The power resistor on the other side of the board has obviously seen some heat, but it measured out at about 22 ohms and it looks like it's stamped at 25 ... so I doubt it's bad. Anyway ... any ideas from those who know more about crossovers? I've tried searching for schematics but I've had no luck. I'm assuming that I'll at least have to replace the damaged capacitor. I've tried searching for it too but have had no luck.The different caps are all labeled with T1 ... but it might be TI The broken one is TI 10 J100V mexico (or could be TI IO J100v) TI 4.0J 250VDCTI 6.8K100VDCTI 2.2K250VDCT.I. 1.0 uF/K250 VDC (that one's at least clear) Any idea of the values? I'd really appreciate some help because I'd hate to have to end up parting out the whole thing because it's been a pretty reliable cab for me for a long time and I'd like to save some money if I can. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted May 29, 2008 Members Share Posted May 29, 2008 10uf/100v bipolar. The digits after the TI is the value in uF. the voltage should be self explainatory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members djcgtr Posted May 29, 2008 Members Share Posted May 29, 2008 Thanks. Hope it helps someDeric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted May 29, 2008 Author Members Share Posted May 29, 2008 Fantastic Thank you Agedhorse and Djcgtr both ! And I assume I'm looking at film caps ... like this one ? http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=U7T%2fEnMyvTszkF7JoTPzew%3d%3d http://www.cde.com/catalogs/DME.pdf or even this less expensive one http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=Dgr3QhzC8eR%2fxwYrJAFrBA%3d%3d http://products.nichicon.co.jp/en/pdf/XJA044/e-xk.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members djcgtr Posted May 30, 2008 Members Share Posted May 30, 2008 Perhaps go with Parts Express.This page has decent caps for your requirements. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&WebPage_ID=3&Start=2&Filter=crossover%2Bcaps&searchorderby=1&sm=1&so=1&search_type=main&desc=ASC Part # 027-244 ( 10 @ 250v )The page has other matches for any of the caps you feel the need to replace. I hope the link copied ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted May 30, 2008 Author Members Share Posted May 30, 2008 wow ... them boys are expensive! I don't need to make the thing totally high-fi, don't know if it putting high-performance caps like those into a circa 1985 Peavey would really make a difference. Thanks for the suggestion though. I do have another question though about that bi-polar 25uF 100V 'lytic. I have only been able to find 22uF and 30 - 33uF bipolar lytics that will handle 100v or more. The other alternative is a 25uF 600v film cap that's around $7. Can I get away with a few less or a few more uF's here just to get the thing up and running again? The speakers are only used for vocals and playback during band rehearsal. I don't need anything that's super hi-fi etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members djcgtr Posted May 30, 2008 Members Share Posted May 30, 2008 wow ... them boys are expensive!I don't need to make the thing totally high-fi, don't know if it putting high-performance caps like those into a circa 1985 Peavey would really make a difference.Thanks for the suggestion though.I do have another question though about that bi-polar 25uF 100V 'lytic. I have only been able to find 22uF and 30 - 33uF bipolar lytics that will handle 100v or more. The other alternative is a 25uF 600v film cap that's around $7.Can I get away with a few less or a few more uF's here just to get the thing up and running again? The speakers are only used for vocals and playback during band rehearsal. I don't need anything that's super hi-fi etc. Some of the caps I looked at, on your links, were in similar price range.If you go to partsexpress.com - and search in crossover caps - there may be less expensive alternatives. And - no you wouldn't need the 1% tolerance parts.The ''hi-fi'' statements in their catalog page is because a lot of people use components and parts from them for building stereo speakers for home use. I doubt all the caps are bad in the PC board. Replace the one with the broken lead and check the items I mentioned in an earlier post in this thread. Understood on use for rehearsal etc and on the 25 uF - if it needs replaced - a 22 uF is OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted May 31, 2008 Members Share Posted May 31, 2008 The comments are because SOME HI FI owners and tweakers think they are important enough that they can hear the difference in 1% tol. parts. They will pay more to feel superior to the common folk. It's preposterous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted May 31, 2008 Author Members Share Posted May 31, 2008 understood on all accounts thanks for the information! Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted May 31, 2008 Members Share Posted May 31, 2008 If the drivers are working when you plug into different jacks your problem is not with crossover components. Old Peavey x-overs frequently have problem wit the "bi-amp" jack which should be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted May 31, 2008 Author Members Share Posted May 31, 2008 If the drivers are working when you plug into different jacks your problem is not with crossover components. Old Peavey x-overs frequently have problem wit the "bi-amp" jack which should be replaced. I looked closely at those jacks. They're pretty unique. Do you know if that's a part I need to order directly from Peavey or can I get it elsewhere? Would you have a link by chance? Also, I did continuity tests with a cable plugged in. I checked continuity from the tip and from the sleeve. I got it on all appropriate contacts except for the contacts that seem to be there solely for structural reasons. Thoughts? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted June 1, 2008 Members Share Posted June 1, 2008 There's a switch contact in the jack that is messed up (my best guess) which you could short around if you don't need to run bi-amped. They are a special part and will need to be ordered from Peavey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted June 2, 2008 Author Members Share Posted June 2, 2008 There's a switch contact in the jack that is messed up (my best guess) which you could short around if you don't need to run bi-amped.They are a special part and will need to be ordered from Peavey. cool well, the caps are first, if they don't get it up and running then I know what to look at next thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted July 5, 2008 Author Members Share Posted July 5, 2008 figured I'd update ... Finally got my parts order completed, processed, and shipped to me a few days ago. When I originally started putting together the order, Mouser had some 10uF 600v Film caps for something like $2.75. Well, when I was about to pull the trigger on the order, I was notified that the supply of these caps had become depleted. The next cheapest cap was I think around $6. Me being the cheap-ass that I am, decided to just get a 10uF bi/non-polar lytic for $0.79. So I R/R'd the caps (replaced the 25uF with a 22uF) and now I have a working speaker cab. Booyeah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dboomer Posted July 5, 2008 Members Share Posted July 5, 2008 When I originally started putting together the order, Mouser had some 10uF 600v Film caps for something like $2.75. ...Me being the cheap-ass that I am, decided to just get a 10uF bi/non-polar lytic for $0.79. Too bad. Electrolytic's are sonically inferior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted July 5, 2008 Author Members Share Posted July 5, 2008 Too bad. Electrolytic's are sonically inferior. It sounds fine to me. The cab is only being used for vocals during band practice. And since neither of us can sing very well ... well:thu: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted July 5, 2008 Members Share Posted July 5, 2008 The electrolytics will not last as long under high power conditions. If that was indeed the LF shunt cap that had failed, it may have shorted causing this problem. Get the proper film caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Gravity Posted July 5, 2008 Author Members Share Posted July 5, 2008 The electrolytics will not last as long under high power conditions. If that was indeed the LF shunt cap that had failed, it may have shorted causing this problem.Get the proper film caps. damn ... really? OK ... on the next parts order then Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members agedhorse Posted July 5, 2008 Members Share Posted July 5, 2008 damn ... really? Yup. Your next upgrade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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