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Ibanez TS7 - KILLER PEDAL


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Originally posted by Klisk

........ I just wish the switch worked reliably.....
:freak:

 

 

:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

 

Originally posted by Klisk

The DE7 isn't a big problem if you do what I do:

 

I crazy glued a piece of thick foam on the part of the pedal that contacts the switch, hence applying more pressure onto the switch.

 

My pedal went from turning on 20% of the time to reliably 100% of the time. I no longer have a problem with hitting it, and the light just flickering on and off. It seems to me that the only problem those switches ever had was that they weren't getting enough contact.

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Originally posted by tintotz

is the picture that the threadstarter put was the plastic one?im intrested on this pedal..torn between ts7 and a ts5 moded to ts808..which one is better?

 

 

there are no plastic -7 series pedals.

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Originally posted by L6Sguy



there are no plastic -7 series pedals.

 

Yeah, I think it's hilarious when people stay away from the 7-series because they think they're plastic.

 

They're ugly and gray, but they're big hunks of metal.

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Originally posted by MrSage


Yeah, I think it's hilarious when people stay away from the 7-series because they think they're plastic.


They're ugly and gray, but they're big hunks of metal.

 

 

to be fair, there is something about the paint job that makes it look like plastic. sorta. but yeah, solid as a rock, and the retractable knobs area great piece of design.

 

 

even if they were plastic, would that be so bad?

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Originally posted by IAmAScientist

I bought a TS7 recently for 40 bucks, bought a mod for 20 off of
www.monteallums.com,
and for about 3 hours of soldering work, I'll have myself a tubescreamer with 808 specs. Now that's a bargain.

 

Yeah, I did that too. Actually, the Monte Allums mod goes beyond a TS808. To turn a TS7 into a TS808, you literally only need to swap out two resistors, costing maybe 50 cents and taking at most 15 minutes (and only that long because the two resistors aren't on the main board, but on a smaller one behind the main board. Observe:

 

http://www.dominocs.com/ToneWorks/ts7808.html

 

The Monte Allums mod goes further and changes a couple of caps for extra bass, exchanges a few more caps for more expensive ones for more clarity, and swaps out the stock JRC4558D for a JRC4558D. Both of these chips were actually used in the original TS808, so as far as authenticity goes, either works, depending on your preference. I haven't decided which one I prefer.

 

After doing the Monte Allums mod, I put back in some of the original parts and a/b'd it with a reissue 808, and they sounded identical to me.

 

Clean vs TS808 vs TS7/808 mod

 

Note that the sound clip is not into a tube amp, but a computer simulation. It's not overdriving anything. I'm just comparing the sound of the two pedals by themselves. I think that's the best way to guage what they sound like, even if this isn't the way you'd actually use them ideally.

 

I like the sound of the Monte Allums Mod as well as the straight-up TS808 mod. I'm going to install a few extra toggle switches on my TS7 so I can switch between the two, as well as another mod. I also want to try replacing one of the stock sillicon diodes with a germanium -- the voltage difference, I'm told, should make for asymmetrical clipping. Or maybe I'll put in a few extra germaniums in series. We'll see.

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Originally posted by grob-bucket

I just sold mine. The Tonelock feature is pretty cool but I wasn't impressed by the build quality. It has a plastic case and no nuts on the sockets so that any movement is transferred to the PCB (same as the much cheaper Dano and Behringer models).


The biggest problem, however, was the switch - it was extremely unreliable. You simply couldn't guarantee it would switch on or off when you stomped it.

 

 

In the case of the switch you're right. If they had taken more care in selecting the quality there woudn't be a problem with that.

 

Otherwise,

- They're not plastic as has been said in this thread already.

- If you would have taken te opportunity of opening the thing you would have noticed that the jacks have their own mounting plate on which they're mounted with a nut in place, meaning that there's no transferring of force to the PCB whatsoever. This very clearly illustrates that the designers have learned from previous mistakes.

- Personally I think by far the best but never mentioned detail is the fact that there's two threaded holes in the bottom plate enabling to screw the thing on a pedal board without having to drill holes or resort to Velcro or something similar.

- Regardless of the model all internal connectors have either different size or colour meaning that an ape can put the right connector in the right slot.

- That together with more obvious stuff like the sunken knobs still makes me think that the 7's are by far the best thought over bulk build pedals in existence.

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:eek::love::freak:

 

this was the first pedal i ever bought, back when i was 15 and playing through a crate 2x12. ha. i used to use it as my main overdrive, but i was also playing punk then, so not much matter as far as tone.

 

HOWEVER, i still have it to this day, and surprisingly, it makes my tsl100 sound more like a tube amp than the amp itself can. it's ridiculous. the switch sucks dick, and i really need to try what L6Sguy mentioned.

 

i use my dd-6 set on moderate length, then i use the ts7 right before my digiverb pedal [set on reverse] in order to warm up the signal, fix the volume drop, and get a kick-ass voice-esque effect. literally my most used combination on my board. here's a clip demonstrating it:

 

soundclick player [dd-6, digiverb and ts7 clip].

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