How to fix stripped strap button...

[lefort_1]

We could talk a lot of science about wood types and density, resitance to splitting, use of grain, diameter/shape/fill of the void.
For the glue there's a lot to be said about shear strength, compressive strength, weakness in volume,

But that would be boring. So let's go with flames and incindiary statesments instead.
After all, it's the HC Way.


First off: $#!%^% Dan @ StewMac.
Sorry Dan, but you've created a generation of 'luthiers' who think its ok to use epoxy and superglue, and having to work on such a guitar is a true nightmare. There's no such thing as "the last fix"...for anything. Just stop saying it. Recall all those $20 videos, and print a retraction in the WSJ. It doesn't matter if it's a cheapo guitar which you have no respect for...those happen to be the BEST ones to learn PROPER technique on.

Second:
Tooth picks are the basswood of repair materials. In almost all cases, the lack of compressive strength (ie softness) makes them a {censored} solution for areas which need strength. (jeebus, almost an entire sentence w/o swearing...this is NOT your typical HC rant).
More things that make toothpicks suck:
- round or square, both have a continuously changing crossectional area, and that rate of change INCREASES near the tip. This means you get more glue and less wood unless you cut off that last 20% of the tip. This is more important for round vs sqr toothpicks. The problem is, your fill material becomes > 50% glue, which has lousy resistance to being cut by little sharp objects ....like a strap screw. So down deep under the surface, while you Townsend-around like a ... like a .... like a Townsend.... well, the laws of physics demands that the instantaeous g-force of the guitar being stopped by the strap is transmitted thru the screw (and threads) to the surrounding structure. You're far better off with the screw-to-wood interface than you are with a screw-to-glue...glue is more brittle.

Oh, yeah (oops, I mean "{censored} yeah", but I'm too deep in minutae to worry about swearing any more).
How about "what happens to a toothpick when you put a screw into it....in essence, you've Ronco'd the poor thing.
It's been sliced, diced, and chopped into tiny bits...and all those bits are held together by glue.
Personally, I'd rather my sliced wood be held together by MORE WOOD...especially DENSE WOOD... like maple, or ash, or some other low-resin wood...with a nice tight grain (so I usually eliminate oak here) but cripes I'd even take a solid pine dowel over toothpicks any day. The bottom line is: the tight, microscopic, intracellular bonds of cellulose are much better than that of glue....folks, this is why nature made trees out of wood, and not aliphatic resins or cross-linked polyvinyl acetates.

Bottom line:
For a stripped strapscrew without cracked surrounding wood:
Remove the debris from the hole by gently scraping.
Find a dowel that fits firmly. If no dowel fits, drill out the hole to the next size-up dowel.
Glue with something like one of the Titebonds (as thin a layer of glue as possible, since glues lack shear-strength in crossectional volume)
Let it stand for 24 hours.
Pre-drill a hole for the new strap screw.
Screw it in without cracking/splitting the dowel.
Yer done and it should last longer than the basswood body that the cheapass manufacturers are using nowadays.





Now, where's my morning coffee?

[GREC]

Wood matchsticks & wood glue. The wood is a bit softer than toothpicks -squashes & bonds nicely.

I renovate old houses & it's a technique used for stripped wood holes on massive old door hinges.

[goodhonk]

drill a new hole directly under/or above, your choice really, the original hole. use old hole as toothpick holder.

/thread

[lefort_1]

drill a new hole directly under/or above, your choice really, the original hole. use old hole as toothpick holder. /thread

 

 

 

Quit trying to be the peacemaker, choirboy!

 

:luveyes:

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOW SPLIT THAT BASSWOOD BABBY WITH A SWORD AND GIVE HALF TO ME!!!!

[goodhonk]

you sound like a guy i used to float down the mighty missisip with.

[lefort_1]

you sound like a guy i used to float down the mighty missisip with.

 

 

Sorry, wrong river.

I'm in deNile.

[Pewtershmit]

 

We could talk a lot of science about wood types and density, resitance to splitting, use of grain, diameter/shape/fill of the void. For the glue there's a lot to be said about shear strength, compressive strength, weakness in volume, But that would be boring. So let's go with flames and incindiary statesments instead. After all, it's the HC Way. First off: $#!%^% Dan @ StewMac. Sorry Dan, but you've created a generation of 'luthiers' who think its ok to use epoxy and superglue, and having to work on such a guitar is a true nightmare. There's no such thing as "the last fix"...for anything. Just stop saying it. Recall all those $20 videos, and print a retraction in the WSJ. It doesn't matter if it's a cheapo guitar which you have no respect for...those happen to be the BEST ones to learn PROPER technique on. Second: Tooth picks are the basswood of repair materials. In almost all cases, the lack of compressive strength (ie softness) makes them a {censored} solution for areas which need strength. (jeebus, almost an entire sentence w/o swearing...this is NOT your typical HC rant). More things that make toothpicks suck: - round or square, both have a continuously changing crossectional area, and that rate of change INCREASES near the tip. This means you get more glue and less wood unless you cut off that last 20% of the tip. This is more important for round vs sqr toothpicks. The problem is, your fill material becomes > 50% glue, which has lousy resistance to being cut by little sharp objects ....like a strap screw. So down deep under the surface, while you Townsend-around like a ... like a .... like a Townsend.... well, the laws of physics demands that the instantaeous g-force of the guitar being stopped by the strap is transmitted thru the screw (and threads) to the surrounding structure. You're far better off with the screw-to-wood interface than you are with a screw-to-glue...glue is more brittle. Oh, yeah (oops, I mean "{censored} yeah", but I'm too deep in minutae to worry about swearing any more). How about "what happens to a toothpick when you put a screw into it....in essence, you've Ronco'd the poor thing. It's been sliced, diced, and chopped into tiny bits...and all those bits are held together by glue. Personally, I'd rather my sliced wood be held together by MORE WOOD...especially DENSE WOOD... like maple, or ash, or some other low-resin wood...with a nice tight grain (so I usually eliminate oak here) but cripes I'd even take a solid pine dowel over toothpicks any day. The bottom line is: the tight, microscopic, intracellular bonds of cellulose are much better than that of glue....folks, this is why nature made trees out of wood, and not aliphatic resins or cross-linked polyvinyl acetates. Bottom line: For a stripped strapscrew without cracked surrounding wood: Remove the debris from the hole by gently scraping. Find a dowel that fits firmly. If no dowel fits, drill out the hole to the next size-up dowel. Glue with something like one of the Titebonds (as thin a layer of glue as possible, since glues lack shear-strength in crossectional volume) Let it stand for 24 hours. Pre-drill a hole for the new strap screw. Screw it in without cracking/splitting the dowel. Yer done and it should last longer than the basswood body that the cheapass manufacturers are using nowadays. Now, where's my morning coffee?

 

 

I use boutique toothpicks your argument is invalid.