Members mildbill Posted November 16, 2009 Members Share Posted November 16, 2009 Actually depulse - I think that'd be cool too. I've got some heavy duty slides I'd like to use for that, but am still in the planning stages. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mildbill Posted November 16, 2009 Members Share Posted November 16, 2009 Paolo's got a 7 foot width (84 inches). Two bottom spaces that are probably account for between 20 and 21 inches each side. So far that leaves 44 to 42 inches. Then you have to take into account the width of the slides and the mounting hardware. There'd definitely be room there to squeeze in a short 61 key board. Then there'd still need to be a smaller slide for an actual computer keyboard. Now you're running into knee bumping territory. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members carbon111 Posted November 16, 2009 Members Share Posted November 16, 2009 Paolo, that's looking good! However, I'd recommend some sort of lateral bracing - either a board screwed and glued across the top 1/4 of the back of the lower desk-supporting rack boxes or, at a bare minimum, some wooden right triangles glued and nailed on the back of the corners. As it is, all the lateral stress is on your metal angle irons. When all loaded up, your squares are going to want to turn into parallelograms. (I was a cabinet maker for 18 years before I became a CNC machinist and I.T. guru...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ElectricPuppy Posted November 16, 2009 Members Share Posted November 16, 2009 +100 Carbon. That's a lot of leverage against the relatively short angle irons. You're going to put more shearing stress on that desk than you might think. Also, screws short enough not to poke out the other side won't give you very much holding power in plywood and might rip out. Particularly in the crap plywood they pass off as "cabinet grade" at the Big Box stores lately. Some wood triangles in the corners in those boxes would do a lot of good. I'd also use some bracing under the top between the boxes to stiffen it up. Yeah, I know, it's 3/4 ply, but still... you'll notice it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members eric Posted November 17, 2009 Members Share Posted November 17, 2009 Nice work! Kinda reminds me of Mark's studio where we hung out a few weeks ago. For covering the edges, the iron-on veneer or opposing color trim pieces would look great. Can't wait to see it installed with gear! Regards,Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members evildragon Posted November 17, 2009 Members Share Posted November 17, 2009 Awesome work, Paolo! Did it really come out cheaper than buying one? And great advice, Carbon. The know-how is evident! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Fuzzlabs Posted November 17, 2009 Members Share Posted November 17, 2009 Looks a lot like my experience making the big and small racks some years ago. I do like the look of the plywood and stain you chose. If you have your design all planned out (go go CAD programs) you can tell Lowe's or Home Depot how you want to cut up your plywood when you buy it, at least for basic straight cuts. They'll do it for free (or at least used to). It sure saved me a lot of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members idiotboy Posted November 17, 2009 Members Share Posted November 17, 2009 This thread is very inspiring. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Don Solaris Posted November 17, 2009 Members Share Posted November 17, 2009 Nice work! Kinda reminds me of Mark's studio where we hung out a few weeks ago.Oh Hai Eric! Who is Mark? Thanks! OT: I played psalter two days ago. I'm getting one. That's all i know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mildbill Posted November 17, 2009 Members Share Posted November 17, 2009 Come on Paolo - quit goofing off. More pics, please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Markyboard Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 Oh Hai Eric! Who is Mark? Thanks! That would be me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members idiotboy Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Markyboard Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 Thanks. Looking good Paolo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Paolo Di Nicolantonio Posted November 18, 2009 Author Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 Thanks. Looking good Paolo! My inspiration, thank you, Mark! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ElectricPuppy Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 Thanks! I actually had Home Depot cut a couple of pieces for me, but the edges were all frazzled... to do precision cuts you need a very thin blade Some more plywood tips, for what is't worth (or for anyone searching later): If you're cutting plywood with a portable circular saw or a saber saw (jigsaw), place the material good face down. That'll minimize tear-out of the veneer. The teeth will be pulling the veneer into the plywood as they enter instead of pulling it away as the teeth exit. To further avoid tearout, use a plywood blade. They're labeled for this purpose. Not only are the blades thinner, they have more, finer teeth and are ground for the purpose. They will cut slower, though. Using a saber saw won't produce a very smooth cut, especially if you freehand it. Use a circular saw, preferably along with a straightedge clamped to the plywood so you can use glide the saw against it as you cut. Perfectly straight and smooth-enough cuts. This is important if you plan to glue anything on the cut edge, like edging tape and don't want to spend the rest of your life sanding. I guarantee that if you have to sand the edge that the edge will no longer be straight, no matter how hard you try. Extra bonus for fuzzless cuts: Use a sharp knife and score along the cut line before using the saw. Score on the edge of the kerf of the cut, not down the center. Fastening: Don't try to screw into the edge of plywood; The plys won't hold the screw. At a minimum, use the angle irons like Paolo did, and don't be stingy with them if this is all you're going to use. Gluing: All edges must be straight and gluing surfaces must mate flush with no gaps. Use clamps. No, really, that's not optional: Use clamps. DON'T butt joint a plywood edge alone, it won't hold! Add brackets or glue blocks for reinforcement. If you make a box, give it a back to support it, else it will turn into a parallelagram like Carbon said. If the back needs to be open, glue and screw some blocks into the inside corners. Finish: Stain as desired. For protection, use a water-base polyurethane, it's easier to clean-up after. Don't stop at just one coat! Coat, dry, sand lightly, coat, dry, sand lightly, then coat once more. Let the stuff dry very thoroughly before sanding! If it gums up the sand paper, you're sanding too hard or it's not dry enough yet. Sanding will help keep the final finish smooth. Oh, and always remember, the most imporant safety rule is to wear these: *tap tap* Safety glasses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mate_stubb Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 This is birch plywood with the birch iron-on edges, stained red oak and with a polyurethane topcoat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Plink Floyd Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 That there would be a beauty if it was sided with old doghouse shingles. Excellent woodwork, though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mildbill Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 That would be me. Looks like you replaced your MidiBoard with a later version Kurzweil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mediterranean Posted November 18, 2009 Members Share Posted November 18, 2009 Outstanding work, Paolo. You just saved yourself at least 900 bucks if not more [minus the cost of the project]. What a handy man:thu: That would be me. It weren't a little blurry, one of the best pics I've seen on here. Everything about that room is perfect:love: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Don Solaris Posted November 20, 2009 Members Share Posted November 20, 2009 That would be me. Thanks for info! I'm still wondering about Eric. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members girevik Posted November 20, 2009 Members Share Posted November 20, 2009 Someday, I too shall possess a pimped out basement music room like Paolo and Markyboard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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