Members bluesboy Posted October 12, 2008 Members Share Posted October 12, 2008 Hi all. I'm finally starting to get things moving on rewiring my Epi LP, and i've run into a problem i know lots of other people have. I can't get solder to stick to the back of the pots. I cleaned the backs, and roughed them up with the sandpaper attachment of my dremel tool. I tried and i tried and i tried. I have a 25 watt soldering iron that works great for everything else. Any further advice on that? I was also thinking of some alternate route, like connecting all of my ground wires together at the ends, and running a wire from there to the ground connection of the output jack. this will probably look messy. Could I put a screw into the cavity somewhere and put attach all my ground wires to there (and then run a wire to the output)? Just curious what some other people have done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members PlinytheWelder Posted October 12, 2008 Members Share Posted October 12, 2008 Here's a site on shielding that goes into grounding too:http://www.guitarnuts.com/wiring/shielding/shield3.php Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members pezguy Posted October 12, 2008 Members Share Posted October 12, 2008 I can't get solder to stick to the back of the pots.I have a 25 watt soldering iron that works great for everything else.Any further advice on that? Your iron is not getting the back of the pot hot enough to melt and flow the solder. In my experience you need a 40w iron to do this. With the proper wattage it will make this job a snap. Take care to not heat up the back of the pot for too long a time or you will damage it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bluesboy Posted October 12, 2008 Author Members Share Posted October 12, 2008 Your iron is not getting the back of the pot hot enough to melt and flow the solder. In my experience you need a 40w iron to do this. With the proper wattage it will make this job a snap. Take care to not heat up the back of the pot for too long a time or you will damage it. cool, thanks for the input. im going to radioshack for more solder and wire, so maybe ill pickup a stronger iron. do you think 40 watts is too strong for regular wiring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members ComingApart Posted October 12, 2008 Members Share Posted October 12, 2008 get some flux paste as well. it will prep the metal of the pot for proper bonding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members bluesboy Posted October 13, 2008 Author Members Share Posted October 13, 2008 the flux paste and 40 watt iron worked like a charm i got the whole thing wired up fairly quickly and everything works the way it should (yay for me).This guitar sounds quite different now... it sounds much more lively for sure.These are the mods i made for those who may be interested at some time:removed all the old electronics. new toggle switch, switchcraft output jack, 500K CTS audio taper pots, sprague orange drop caps, wired like typical LP or SG wiring (at least according to stewmac's diagram). My pickups are seymour duncan phatcats.I also changed the plastic nut for a TUSQ nut. The string height at the nut is slightly higher than i think it should be, especially on the g,b,e. The string height at the first fret to the bottom of the string is at about .02" across the board. Ill deal with that later, or more than likely just leave it alone.this guitar ROCKS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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