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Framus Cobra Versions?


freehandarson

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to my knowledge there are only two versions

 

the original one, where you have to take the chassis out of the head shell (which is no easy task for one person) to re-bias it...then the newest one (which has been out for a few years now) with the bias points on the outside so they you can leave the head in one piece to retube & bias

 

i've seen inside shots where they moved some things around when they went to the newer version, i've only played the older one which i own, so i can't say how they compare

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to my knowledge there are only two versions


the original one, where you have to take the chassis out of the head shell (which is no easy task for one person) to re-bias it...then the newest one (which has been out for a few years now) with the bias points on the outside so they you can leave the head in one piece to retube & bias


i've seen inside shots where they moved some things around when they went to the newer version, i've only played the older one which i own, so i can't say how they compare

 

+1 only two versions exist. The main changes I remember are adding the external bias and putting the tube sockets on pcb in the newer versions. I only played newer versions so no comparison from me either but I'm pretty sure guitarman put his experiences in a couple threads, just search for cobra, pick the longer threads and filter out the bs :D

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There are at least 3 versions. The last one is V5 so that could mean there are actually 5, I don't know for sure. I have schematics dated V1-2001, V2-2003, and V5-2006. I haven't looked real close to know every change, but I think there were some EQ circit changes. The newer amps have connectors to unplug the circuit board instead of having to unsolder all the wires. The external bias too, which doesn't affect the tone at all.

Jerry

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thanks for the info guys.

 

and in regards to this...

 

 

to my knowledge there are only two versions


the original one, where you have to take the chassis out of the head shell (which is no easy task for one person)
to re-bias it...then the newest one (which has been out for a few years now) with the bias points on the outside so they you can leave the head in one piece to retube & bias


i've seen inside shots where they moved some things around when they went to the newer version, i've only played the older one which i own, so i can't say how they compare

 

 

I've got a question. I'm going to pull the chassis out of the headshell later tonight to change some preamp tubes. I have no idea how the LED's are hooked up to be powered on. It seems like they are mounted into the headshell. Is there something I should watch out for when pulling out the chassis? I just don't want to disconnect anything that might be connecting the chassis to the LED's.

 

Thanks

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they're connected to the face plate, which is permanently connected to the chassis, you have to pull the entire thing out from the back...it's a real pain to do

 

honestly you don't need to do all of that just to swap preamp tubes tho, just remove the rear panel

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they're connected to the face plate, which is permanently connected to the chassis, you have to pull the entire thing out from the back...it's a real pain to do


honestly you don't need to do all of that just to swap preamp tubes tho, just remove the rear panel

 

 

Oh jeez, so thats why it's a pain. so the whole damn thing comes out, haha.

 

I have the backplate out...but I figured that i'd take the whole thing out, because being inside the headshell, it's a really small area to try to unscrew the v1 and v2 covers. I might be remembering wrong though since i'm sitting in class....those covers might be twist off.

 

And just to let you guys know, I appreciate all the help in the past few weeks from you guys. I'm loving this cobra and i'm learning a lot about it from you guys. So thanks, cobrahead, guitarman, and chrisjd, and everyone else.

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Oh jeez, so thats why it's a pain. so the whole damn thing comes out, haha.


I have the backplate out...but I figured that i'd take the whole thing out, because being inside the headshell, it's a really small area to try to unscrew the v1 and v2 covers. I might be remembering wrong though since i'm sitting in class....those covers might be twist off.


And just to let you guys know, I appreciate all the help in the past few weeks from you guys. I'm loving this cobra and i'm learning a lot about it from you guys. So thanks, cobrahead, guitarman, and chrisjd, and everyone else.

 

 

Yeah, I wouldn't take the amp out of the shell for preamp tubes. No way in hell..

Just remove the back panel. I keep mine off unless I'm gigging it.

You'll get better at swapping tubes with some experience.

Once you know which way the pin pattern in the socket sits, it's a piece of cake.

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the original one, where you have to take the chassis out of the head shell (which is no easy task for one person)

 

I've never had any problem taking it out of the headshell like this:

 

cobra.jpg

 

Grab the transformers from the back and lift the back of the chassis. Then pull (or just let the headshell drop by hanging the chassis by the transformers).

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Late chime in.

 

Going by the later schems from Framus' site, these have a DC heater supply, regulated on v1 (could be v2 as well). Seems to still use the original transformers and power supply, the DC gets pulled from the same supply as the midi card (without me digging thru my amp schem collection).

 

That's a pretty major change, as well as V3 and later version using a more common optocoupler, rather then the HBD (the mob who make the amps for Warrick/Framus?) "home made" LDR/LED deals in the v1/v2 ones. PCB designs will reflect those changes.

 

Happy v2 Dragon owner here, but it is a noisey SOB with the channel volumes dimed (the way I like to use it-more like a real amp then).

 

The DC in a multi amp like this would make it quiter, not sure about the difference in optocoupler, but it is in ths signal path, so yeah, could make a sonic difference.

 

C.......

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Late chime in.


Going by the later schems from Framus' site, these have a DC heater supply, regulated on v1 (could be v2 as well). Seems to still use the original transformers and power supply, the DC gets pulled from the same supply as the midi card (without me digging thru my amp schem collection).


That's a pretty major change, as well as V3 and later version using a more common optocoupler, rather then the HBD (the mob who make the amps for Warrick/Framus?) "home made" LDR/LED deals in the v1/v2 ones. PCB designs will reflect those changes.


Happy v2 Dragon owner here, but it is a noisey SOB with the channel volumes dimed (the way I like to use it-more like a real amp then).


The DC in a multi amp like this would make it quiter, not sure about the difference in optocoupler, but it is in ths signal path, so yeah, could make a sonic difference.


C.......

 

 

how is it not a real amp?

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how is it not a real amp?

 

 

Sorry Fella,

 

Guess I should of said I crank all of the volumes (master1 too, I don't use the switchable master volume function) and I find the amp opens up a lot more, like the JMP I used to have and my GH50L.

 

Aside from the clean channel addition and those wierdo tone stacks, the amp is a SLO100 clone.

 

I attenuate with a Hotplate to save hearing.

 

It's a nice amp.

 

C.....

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