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Question: Lava Solder-Free Mini ELC Cable Kit


Rgkchile

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I am about to begin to build my own pedalboard, and in order to do so I would like to purchase a DIY cable kit. I prefer to be in control of the patch cable length as well as jack alignment/placement. Currently I am interested in the Lava Solder-Free DIY Cable Kit (10' Mini ELC Cable + 10 Lava Plugs + Stripping Tool). I was wondering if anyone has had any experience using this product, and if so, how did everything turn out? Any feedback or reviews, negative or positive, will be greatly appreciated. Better yet, if anyone has used this product and has a picture of their pedalboard please post it! Thanks.

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I've heard good things about it, but only a few reports. You should post in the Effects forum - a bunch of the guys there have used that kit. I have the "regular" ELC minis on my board (almost done w/ every cable). I'm happy w/ 'em, but that solderless looks nice and easy!

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I My buddy bought a solder free guitar cable, one of the expensive ones. We didnt get through a song before it started giving him issues.

 

For guitar chords and jumpers I use the Dayton right angle plugs that are one piece. They cant separate and give you ground problems, zero issues with 25 patch bay and guitar chords for the past 5 years.

 

For pedals I just use the double ended jacks if the ins and outs match in height, for the rest I just use the cheapo bag o plastic molded jumpers. I have a bunch from my patch bay setup I'm not using. They've lasted 15 years with no issues. There again all my boxes are mounted and they arent being unplugged constantly so they dont wear out.

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I've used the Planet Waves custom-length pedalboard kit. All solder-free connections, and it works wonderfully. I've no complaints and I've been using the stuff at every gig.

 

The only time a cable fails you, is because you overstressed it. If your cable fails in the middle, it's because you creased or bent it too harsh, or you rolled one too many guitar cabinets over it breaking the wires inside. If it fails at the plugs, you've yanked on that cable too hard. This goes for soldered or solder-free connections, PERIOD.

 

There's a simple solution for this.

 

Once you've wired all your pedals together, you've gotta run it back to the amp. And you've also gotta run a signal from your guitar to your pedals. And you've gotta supply power for those pedals. That means a minimum of three cable runs going to your pedalboard.

 

If you yank your guitar, you're putting stress on that cable at your first pedal. If you trip on your cable running from the pedalboard to your amp, it can stress that cable plus the pedals they're directly connected to. So if you're yanking cables, you have to have some stress relief to protect those cables.

 

Use these guys:

 

076.jpg248314_300.jpgpipe-clamp.jpg

 

Any of these are easy to find in a hardware store.

 

You have your cables anchored to your pedalboard. So if they get yanked, the stress goes to the clamp, not to your pedals' jacks or to the cables' plugs. Less time spent repairing beaten pedals or loose connections in jacks.

 

Then you go get yourself either a keyboard bag or a pedalboard case, and keep those cables attached to your pedalboard. You get on stage and locate your pedalboard, you run out your cables to your amp, plug in, go. Gig's done, just wrap up the cables and drop everything inside the bag and get off stage lickety-split.

 

If you need to power your pedalboard, you should wrap your amp cable and your power cable together with this stuff:

 

Cable_Ezee_Wrap.jpg

 

Dead-simple, easy to replace, takes abrasion damage instead of your cables, easy to pull-out a shorter cable and keep the longer ones still wrapped up.

 

I've built both my guitarists' pedalboards this way, and they're down to 5-minute stage setups. So damn easy.

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I use black tape every 8" for multiple cable runs. That thing of yours looks like snag city.

 

Back to topic - All guitar players eventually learn basic soldering skills. How much money you throw away between then and now is up to you.

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I use wire ties. The glue on black tape liquifies over time making the cables a stickey mess. Masking tape would be better cause it only dries out over time.

 

You can get a bag tie wraps at dollar stores for a buck or at any electronics store and they work fine. Clip off easily too if you need to replace cords or reconfigure. They can make neat work coiling up extra wire on a pedal board too.

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I use wire ties. The glue on black tape liquifies over time making the cables a stickey mess. Masking tape would be better cause it only dries out over time.

 

I prefer zip ties, too. I keep a bottle of Goo Gone around the house for removing sticky residue, like that from electrician's tape, masking tape can leave a worse mess when exposed to heat over time (like in a storage shed or gear trailer). The tape itself dries out and flakes off, leaving a brown, flaky, hard residue that's a bitch to remove. The only thing I use masking tape for these days is temporary holding items or for masking.

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I replace the tape on mine every couple years. I'm sure there is a better solution then black tape however I know for sure plastic ties WILL cut you.

 

If the part that sticks out is trimmed at an angle, I'm sure it can.

 

What about velcro wraps? I bought a bunch of them on eBay not long ago for a really good price. They're around 3/4-1" wide with tabs for pulling to loosen/remove them. Great stuff.

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I replace the tape on mine every couple years. I'm sure there is a better solution then black tape however I know for sure plastic ties WILL cut you.

 

http://www.action-electronics.com/expandablesleeving.htm

 

jt4111f.jpgjt411x.jpg

 

 

If you really want the most professional stuff to use, this looks and performs wonderfully. A little pricey, but compared to the durability and considering the time saved from re-taping and dealing with the sticky mess....

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