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Questions regarding building a wooden pedalboard


tlchase68

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I have been on a mission to build my own board, and I am planning to use some pre-finished oak flooring slats (2 1/4" wide x 3/4" thick)...This is scrap flooring material that was just collecting dust.

 

It is solid oak, has a durable finish on the top side which should take velcro nicely, and is extremely rigid (no flex when stepped on).

 

Since each slat is so well constructed and strong, I can easily space the top pieces to resemble a Pedaltrain...I was going to bolt five horizontal slats to three vertical slats (no frame) with 3/4" or 1" spacing on top to route cables and wires...A couple of handles and some rubber feet, and I should be set...Right?

 

_______________

l_______l_______l

l_______l_______l

l_______l_______l

l_______l_______l

 

Board Size = 28" x 15"

 

Do you think the bolts, as opposed to screws, will hold-up over time, or should I build a frame? There will already be a decent amount of weight due to the oak, so I was not planning to build a frame.

 

I'd like to get this right the first time, because I have a limited supply of the flooring material...Any suggestions and/or ideas to upgrade will be greatly appreciated!

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I like the idea and using the oak flooring strips... That will have a good look to it. As per the design, if I were going to be doing this i would change the design slightly.... When I am dealing with pedals i always like them to be on a small slant facing me... that is just me though... If you don't like that so much i think your design is great and you should be good just how you are. If you do want a slant, maybe putting a few of the planks under the top side so that it sits just a bit higher....

 

________________

|________________| - This would be your top plank

|__|___|__|___|__| - This is the layer of 3 braces

|________________| - This layer is the first of 2 layers making the slant

|________________| - This is the 2nd slant layer....

 

Yea sorry for the horrible diagram... Hope you get what I mean

 

As per the bolts vs. screw decision I think you are better for going with the bolts just make sure the fit of the bolt to the hole is tight and you countersink the bolt holes on top and bottom so that you don't have the heads of sticking up on each side....

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Most guys cover the base with carpet so the velcro sticks right to it.

My suggestion is use a lighter material and make a cover for it so it can easily be transported without dammage.

 

If you do use the oak and they're tung and groove, I'd just wood glue them together and put clamps on it. Wont need screws or bolts that way.

 

The way I did mine with a rear tier that was higher and tilted forward. It allows me to keep my power strip and power supplies under it. Then I have 5 boxes on the top tier, 7 on the bottom front and a morley volume wah on the right. The upper tier isnt quite as wide as the bottom so the pedal fits flat on the right front to back.

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Very true about the gluing... The only other plus I would see to putting it on the small frame type structure like I suggested is that you could get one of those 9 in 1 pedal transformers under there and only have 1 power cord to worry about and run it up through that opening you were talking about having.

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Some of that gold alluminum edging you can buy at home depot would look nice around the edges of oak. Pick up a gold handel or two for carying too.

 

Rubber feet so it doesnt scratch the floor and doesnt rock on uneven surfaces as much? A littel nite light or LED lights so you can see the pedals in the dark?

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If this stuff is super smooth I'd rough it up before gluing. And use some screws as well as glue. Don't really need them but I build stuff to handle falling out of the bed of my truck @ 60mph.

Back in my drinking days I left the tailgate down more than once.:facepalm:

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And so you don't chase it around the floor.

 

:facepalm:

 

Just picture this with me... You are jamming and step out to hit a pedal, just then the board slides and in the heat of the moment your balance is slightly off and there goes your foot and you are left doing a modified Chuck Berry duck-walk that ends in tragedy... the full split.....

 

Im sorry as you can tell I have a lot of caffeine in me....

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Splits bad...caffeine good!

 

 

My father-in-law was pulling his fifth-wheel camper with a fishing boat behind it on the highway...About an hour into the trip, he realized the boat trailer had worked itself loose. He figured they had driven about half hour without the boat.

 

He found the boat and trailer in tact several miles back, and installed a video camera/monitor for future trips.

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I'm leaning toward keeping the design of the board as simple as possible (no frame). That said, I know that countersinking the bolts will provide a nicer (more polished) look, but I'm wondering if not countersinking and using washers will help ensure stability/longevity of the board...Plus it will make it easier to assemble.

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You're using 3/4" flooring, correct? Unless you go with 5/16" or bigger hardware you won't see a difference in strength. 10-32 bolts are overkill in this case. So your countersinks aren't gonna weaken the structure enough to worry about.

I'd go countersink just for the cool factor. More work though.

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Hey customtele,


Thanks for the specifics, that is the type of information I needed!

This doesn't need a bunch of strength. All your loading is compression type rather than tension. IE pushing rather than pulling. Glue & #6 wood screws would be more than enough as long as you make small enough pilot holes. If your can notch your pieces the screws will basically hold the thing together long enough for the glue to dry. Then if it does go cartwheeling past your truck & end up in the bushes:facepalm::lol: the thing will still be in one piece.

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I made this with:

-2"x4" (middle rail)

-2"x3" (top and bottom rail)

-15/32" thick plywood

-Drywall screws 3/4"

 

30" wide, 12" deep, 4" tall

 

Handle on one side for carrying, 4 rubber feet to keep it in place, bicycle chain links and zip ties to hold down pedals.

 

Rattle can paint job.

 

Works good so far.......

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I wish I had my camera. Mine is 1/4" ply with strips of scrap wood at the front & back. I covered it with this stuff called veltex which is a velcro friendly fabric. I ordered jacks & plugs from Small Bear & wired it up so I can change stuff around & not have power wires phucking up the looks.

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