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Stupid question alert: Does low action necessarily mean fret buzz?


Eye_Of_The_Liger

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What guitar? String guage? 11-50 is as light as I'd go, 12-54 is even better. If you're used to playing super-easy electrics with .009s and close action, then yes acoustic will take some getting used to.

It certainly IS a different instrument from electric. Best to approach it as such.

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Art & Lutherie. I don't know if you remember that thread I posted a few weeks earlier, but I ended up taking it in for the free set up at the guitar store. He straightened out the neck, but he left the action super low, so I can't really play too hard without the strings buzzing. I'm pretty sure my technique has a lot to do with it...

I don't know what the string gauge is, but I'm guessing, judging by the extra set they threw in when I bought it, that they're 12-53's. Would a higher string gauge help with the buzzing?

Thansk. :)

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I guess it really depends on what you mean by "really low action". Right now my Martin 6 and 12 strings are both set at 6/64" at the low E and 5/64 at the hight E measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the 12th fret. I consider that pretty low with light gauge strings, yet I can play clean slide and can tune both guitars down (in fact the 12 is aways tuned to D).

 

I think one of the secrets of low action and lack of fret buzzing is to get the neck relief right before you start lowering. Bryan Kimsey did a detailed study and found that adding relief does not necessarily reduce buzzing, in fact it can cause buzzing when playing on middle and upper frets (relief is between the 1st and 12th or 14th fret since the neck is basically flat where it is attached to the body. If you have a lot of relief you pull the string down into a hole and it is closer to frets up the neck when you play at say the 7th or 8th. The string actually is closer to the next fret than if the neck is flat).

 

Kimsey recommends 0.004 to 0.008 neck relief, then getting the nut right (0.022 low E and 0.016 high). Then bring the saddle down to get the 12th fret where you want it - he actually goes lower than my figures above but mine is compromized slightly for slide.

 

Obviously your fret heights need to be perfect - level them with a 10 inch bastard file before you start and recrown if necessary. Most new guitars should have pretty good frets from the factory.

 

Here is the link to Bryan's page. By the way, he was the one that set up my Martins - when he did he asked me how I play (fingerstyle and slide, all over the neck), what gauge strings I like. Since then I have used his numbers myself with perfect results. Go to Lutherie, read both the section on Neck Relief and Setup. Remember that he primarily is setting up for bluegrassers (who do moderate to heavy strumming) who usually use medium gauge strings.

 

Bryan Kimsey lutherie

 

Last little recommendation is to measure everything and write it down before you start, then only change one thing at time. Both Bryan and Frank Ford have great descriptions of how to measure your action. Don't just start cranking the old truss rod. Once you have sanded your saddle too low it is pretty hard to raise it back up.

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From a trouble-shooting point of view, while low action may cause fret buzz, not all fret buzz is caused by low action.

Years ago, I developed a fret buzz at the 10-12th frets of a mandolin. Turned out the dry winter air in my apartment was shrinking the wood in the body, warping the shape. A damp sponge cured that.

Just sayin' check all angles.

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