Members WRGKMC Posted October 6, 2011 Members Share Posted October 6, 2011 Yes I do the height thing as well, I just didnt mention it. It too depends on the guitar type and getting its intonation set up.I dont always gap it though. Its another thing I often do by eye and feel. I'll start heigher and make sure when you look across the strings at the nut, the string tops are even and gradually taper down to the high E. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted October 6, 2011 Members Share Posted October 6, 2011 How are you liking the stewmac one? I could use a few different sizes (in addition to what i already have) and they have the sizes I'm after. Well they were in the mailbox when I got home. I thought they forgot to stick them in the box because it was so light. I used them to smooth up some grooves in a brass nut and it was like wow, they cut like butter. They are double edgedsteel blades that are smooth on the sides. The one ends has the gauge marked. It would have been nice if there was a hole on one end so you could screw them together like feeler gauges. The .009 is pretty thin and cutting with it requires holding onto both ends so it remains straight. Didnt notice any binding or chatter. The slots were cut already so I didnt get a chance to do a whole nut from scratch. Not sure what kind of steel. Its kind of dark like a hack saw blade so I'm thinking its a carbonized steel. Would be nice if they had handels and had a thicker center for stiffness. What do you want for $12 though. They will last the rest of my lifetime for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members freedlebeatle Posted October 19, 2011 Author Members Share Posted October 19, 2011 whoa whoa whoa guys. sorry havent been on in a while to check. i was pretty much set on just having it done (semi) locally, but mr wrgkmc, about how much did you pay for your files? also, when i pulled my figure of $200+ for a set, i was talking about fretting files (i saw a video tutorial on defrets and refrets, then looked up all the tools). I dont know how i got the two jobs mixed up, other than im an idiot. BUT, thats what i was talking about, even though i didn't mean to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted October 19, 2011 Members Share Posted October 19, 2011 A set of files is around a hundred bucks at Stuart McDonalds. As I mentioned before, I bought three files a a few weeks ago and bought the other three this weekend so I should see them in the mail today. For bass you would only need four so the coust would be less. If its an 8 string bass with octave strings, you'll have to check the string gaugesfrom the packs of strings you buy and see what files you'll need. I doubt you'll need8 different files because some will be used twice for the different octaves vs lower strings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Belva Posted October 19, 2011 Members Share Posted October 19, 2011 My history of nut files: first I made some out of feeler gages. I had to use torch tip cleaners to make the bottom of the slot round with those. Then I got a Norman file set. These are very similar to the home made saws described above but with a round bottom. This kit also included a handy string spacing guide which I still use. Then I got a set of regular files from Warmoth. Best price I found at the time. I find myself using the Norman set to do 90% of the job and the Warmoth set to finish it up. The Norman set cuts really fast and if your not careful, you can end up going too deep which means filling the slot with baking soda and super glue or making a new nut.If I was starting out again, I'd just get the Norman set and stay with that. The price is pretty reasonable on Fleabay. I think I paid around 60 bucks for the whole shebang. At that price, if you use them twice you're money ahead compared to having your nuts done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted October 19, 2011 Members Share Posted October 19, 2011 Yes as I mentioned before, the Stuart files cut very fast. (I like the speed and its actually a blessing to get the chore done fast) This is why you want to use feeler gauges in front of the nut so theres no possible way of cutting too deep. The trick is to get enough gauges so its higher than your first fret. Then when you cut down, you stop when you start to hit the gauges. The only thing you have to worry about is the break away angle from the nut to the tuners. I usually cut nuts with strings on and when looking from the side down at the headstock like you would see when you're playing, you cut at the same angle as the strings breaks away.(again depending on the nut type, thickness, headstock type etc.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members WRGKMC Posted October 20, 2011 Members Share Posted October 20, 2011 Got them in last night and have a full set now. Did some touch up work on several guitars and itreally did make a difference on the instruments playability. No more string binding made guitars keep their tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members freedlebeatle Posted October 25, 2011 Author Members Share Posted October 25, 2011 cool deal, ill be looking for a norman set and then ill supplement whatever i dont get in that from stumac or some other source. thanks for the info guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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