Everything seems fine with guitar but action is still high

[PoppyPoo]

Hi, I bought a Taylor 314ce about a month ago and I feel like the action is too high for my taste. Right now it's at about 9/64" for the low E at the 12th fret. I'd like to get it around to about 5/64" or 3/32". I checked out Freeman Keller's sticky thread (awesome thread!) and checked out everything: neck angle is fine, saddle height is good, nut is on straight. . .

 

 

It seems like shaving the saddle is the best way to lower action. Comparing the action of my Taylor to the action of a cheap Rogue acoustic I have - which has perfect action - I found some interesting comparisons:

 

1) Neck angles on both are straight

2) Action is lower on Rogue, but saddle is about same if not higher

3) The strings were grooved in just a little bit more in the nut on the Rogue than the strings in the Taylor.

 

 

 

I'm having second thoughts about shaving my Taylor's saddle now. What's the difference between the Taylor and the Rogue that could make such a difference in the action? From my observations, the only difference I could find was the depth of the nut grooves. Does the nut have that drastic of an impact of action?

 

I'm thinking of just taking it to a shop for a setup but I would love to do it myself with help and any suggestions. Thanks!

[Hudman]

 

Hi, I bought a Taylor 314ce about a month ago and I feel like the action is too high for my taste. Right now it's at about 9/64" for the low E at the 12th fret. I'd like to get it around to about 5/64" or 3/32". I checked out Freeman Keller's sticky thread (awesome thread!) and checked out everything: neck angle is fine, saddle height is good, nut is on straight. . . It seems like shaving the saddle is the best way to lower action. Comparing the action of my Taylor to the action of a cheap Rogue acoustic I have - which has perfect action - I found some interesting comparisons: 1) Neck angles on both are straight 2) Action is lower on Rogue, but saddle is about same if not higher 3) The strings were grooved in just a little bit more in the nut on the Rogue than the strings in the Taylor. I'm having second thoughts about shaving my Taylor's saddle now. What's the difference between the Taylor and the Rogue that could make such a difference in the action? From my observations, the only difference I could find was the depth of the nut grooves. Does the nut have that drastic of an impact of action? I'm thinking of just taking it to a shop for a setup but I would love to do it myself with help and any suggestions. Thanks!

 

 

You can't compare saddle heights on the Rogue and the Taylor because they have different bridges. The slot may be deeper on one or the bridge may be thicker on one.

 

Assuming your neck relief is good, it sounds like your saddle is too tall. I would sand a bit off the bottom of the saddle. Tape a sheet of sandpaper to a flat, smooth surface and sand a bit off at a time while concentrating on holding the saddle 90 degrees to the sanding surface. This will insure that you do not remove too much material and that the bottom remains flat. It is best to test fit the saddle as you work to insure you get it down to the proper height.

[Cripes]

 

You can't compare saddle heights on the Rogue and the Taylor because they have different bridges. The slot may be deeper on one or the bridge may be thicker on one. Assuming your neck relief is good, it sounds like your saddle is too tall. I would sand a bit off the bottom of the saddle. Tape a sheet of sandpaper to a flat, smooth surface and sand a bit off at a time while concentrating on holding the saddle 90 degrees to the sanding surface. This will insure that you do not remove too much material and that the bottom remains flat. It is best to test fit the saddle as you work to insure you get it down to the proper height.

 

 

+1. I'd add one thing - patience. Sand a little, check a little, and so on until you are happy with it. Also, keep in mind that the saddle may be near to where you want it on one side yet higher on the other. I had this problem with a guitar recently and the tech I had do the work didn't notice it. He just sanded without paying attention to the differential and I ended up with action too low on the treble side. After a new saddle blank and lots of sanding/checking I got it right myself. Patience.

[Freeman Keller]

Poppy, I'll chime in but what Hud and Cripes have said is right on. First, thanks for your comments on the Sick sticky - I really do hope it helps people and minor setup work should be within reach of most of us.

 

Second, Taylors seem particularly sensitive to humidity, altho HIGH action is not normally a characteristic of a dry guitar. But before you take it to a tech or try to do anything yourself make sure it is stable.

 

String height at the nut does have a small effect on action down the fretboard, but mostly it is a matter of playability. If it is too high the first few frets will be hard to push the strings down, too low and you can get buzzing. It should be the second thing you check (after relief), but most of the time it will never need to be changed.

 

Relief does affect action, and some people feel you can adjust the truss rod to change it. In reality you adjust the T/R to get a nice flat neck with minimum relief, then leave it alone. It's really easy to check - use the strings as a straightedge by capoing at one and fretting at 12 - you should have only about one business card of clearance at 6.

 

The neck angle check in the Sick sticky is only for reference (and mostly for older guitars). If the neck angle is bad you probably won't be able to lower the saddle enough, but on a new guitar it shouldn't be a problem.

 

After getting the relief right and checking the nut, measure the action at 12. Take it down slowly by sanding the bottom of the saddle - I make a pencil line parallel to the bottom of the saddle so I can make sure I'm sanding evenly. I leave the strings on, loosen them, pull the saddle out, sand a little, put it back in, tune up and try it. By the time I'm done the strings are pretty shot, but by doing a little at a time I can bring it down slowly. The theory says that you take twice as much off at the saddle as you want to lower it at 12 (and that is where I draw my line) but I like to just take it slow.

 

If you decide to take it to a tech, ask if you can watch what she does. That way you will learn and be able to do it yourself next time. Good luck and enjoy your 314.