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gonna build myself an archtop


meandi

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No prob. I'm actually doing a project starting soon on a leslie-type guitar cabinet. I can't believe the props I've gotten already... To be honest it's made me a bit scared. Anyway, Something like this would get way more attention and praise then I could ever give ya for it there. As I said before, this needs to be shared.


I'm in about a million percent electric, mostly because I currently don't own any kind of acoustic, closest thing being a semi-hollow. But I'm also a very CLEAN electric player, but a warm overdrive, that fullness can't be beat, IMO.

 

 

any way a post could be shown on two pages at the same time?

i still am into the sound of a sweet crunchy overdrive...it's just as a player that i'm so deep into the acoustic thing...can't explain it...don't try to...just follow my muse.

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had to add re-enforcement to the clamping on the ends of the split mold...the center press form was spreading them out of shape with only very moderate pressure.
instead of wood screws i drilled through the mold & bolted it all together...much better now.
linings are a bit of a slow go...16 clamps in what you see here...so it's glue a couple of sections, give it a half hour & move on to the next sections.
it'll all be done today.
clamps were only .99 each, but i need several other items that i'm saving for, so couldn't justify buying a hundred of them at this time.
at205.jpg

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shaping on up!
:thu:



yes, it is.
this is an exciting time...after a year of preparation/study it's cool to actually have the pieces in my hand...to experience the subtle nuances of the build that the dialogue in the videos/books just can't convey...the strength that has been imparted to the sides with the addition of the linings/braces, for example...the feel of the way it responds to slight flexing now vs earlier.

at206.jpg

at207.jpg

back in the main mold for the final leveling of the sides with the long sanding stick, this time loaded with 80 grit.
with the new additional strength holding the shape, it actually fits into the mold with less wrestling now than was required before this step.
the sound it makes while inserting it into the mold is slightly remeniscant to me of the squeak of the leather when stepping up into a nice leather saddle.
the final leveling is the last step in the preparation of the sides for taking glue-up with the top/back plates...sides are ready.
at208.jpg

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This IS getting exciting. Amazed how this one process has made the sides look.. well.. ready.




ready seems to have it's own look, reguardless of what you're doing.


_______


well i'm getting ready to measure the thickness of of the back plate for final thinning & shaping before gluing to the body sides & realized that with the top plate coming up pretty quick i'm going to have to decide whether i'm going to install x bracing or parallel in the top plate.
here are my options in a nutshell:
parallel bracing is stronger & can support a top that has been carved thinner, thus increasing the projection of the voice of the guitar.
the x braced top is thicker & projects a softer, mellower sound.
he keeps coming back to the light/heavier aspect of the instrument as a direct influence on the acoustic properties...the lighter the better.
not only that, but, the different bracings use top plates that are laid out differently reguarding the tapering from thickest to thinest.


any of the archtop owners reading this...i would be interested in knowing which bracing pattern was used on your instruments, & your thoughts reguarding the tonality of the guitar acoustically...would you order it differently if doing it again etc.
at209.jpg

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Not an archtop owner but, my vote is parallel. If I were making an instrument and wanted it softer and mellower, I wouldn't bother making it hollow at all. You would have been finished long ago. It would have been a neck bolted to a solid body and it would sound like a camping guitar.....;-)

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Not an archtop owner but, my vote is parallel. If I were making an instrument and wanted it softer and mellower, I wouldn't bother making it hollow at all. You would have been finished long ago. It would have been a neck bolted to a solid body and it would sound like a camping guitar.....;-)

 

 

i've been leaning towards the parallel.

i play with kind of a soft touch at times & a guitar that projects well is going to be a joy.

i've got another mahogany back plate blank already glued up...i've been considering building them just the opposite as far as the the braces go.

an a/b test of two guitars built from the same woods...just braced differently.

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Just based on the 'bracing theory' that I read about and discussed with my builder, I went with parallel. Supposedly x-bracing decreases volume and increases sustain, which seems to move closer to the flattop sound. I wanted my acoustic archtop to have its own personality.


I'm happy with the results, even though I don't really have any basis for comparison. My guitar has plenty of power. When played hard it out-projects my carbon fiber RainSong jumbo, which is a very loud guitar. I only use mediums or higher on my archtop though.


I think there is also a difference between symmetrical parallel braces and asymmetrical parallel braces. I think the asymmetrically positioned braces are supposed to help balance the tone / volume. Mine appear to be mostly symmetrical but I'm happy with the balance (my builder told me that certain modifications related to body size and shape would help with the bass - treble balance, so I went with his ideas).

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Quote Originally Posted by meandi

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i've got another mahogany back plate blank already glued up...i've been considering building them just the opposite as far as the the braces go.

an a/b test of two guitars built from the same woods...just braced differently.

 

Great Idea! Being the voyeur on the project I second that idea.
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Quote Originally Posted by reachjkh

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I vote go with strength on this first one. Either way it's going to sound fantastic.

 

good advice from you, as always.


 

Quote Originally Posted by brahmz118

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Just based on the 'bracing theory' that I read about and discussed with my builder, I went with parallel. Supposedly x-bracing decreases volume and increases sustain, which seems to move closer to the flattop sound. I wanted my acoustic archtop to have its own personality.


I'm happy with the results, even though I don't really have any basis for comparison. My guitar has plenty of power. When played hard it out-projects my carbon fiber RainSong jumbo, which is a very loud guitar. I only use mediums or higher on my archtop though.


I think there is also a difference between symmetrical parallel braces and asymmetrical parallel braces. I think the asymmetrically positioned braces are supposed to help balance the tone / volume. Mine appear to be mostly symmetrical but I'm happy with the balance (my builder told me that certain modifications related to body size and shape would help with the bass - treble balance, so I went with his ideas).

 

thanks for the insights.

benedetto goes into the symmetrical/asymmetrical thing on the bracing as well as body shape variations...slightly higher vs slightly flater arching on the plates for tone shaping/balancing.

i think what he's presenting in his instructional material is probably the "middle of the road" configuration that presents the overall best blend of the archtops capabilities.


 

Quote Originally Posted by mjuenem

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Great Idea! Being the voyeur on the project I second that idea.

 

nothing like doing things via the scientific method.

quantifiable characteristics from each for comparison.

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nothing much of visual excitement right now...scraper shavings & templates...work a while...pull it out of the carving cradle & measure...back in the cradle more scraping...sometimes on the inside...sometimes on the outer profile.

it's right at 3/16" overall, which is my final target dimension.

light as a feather in my hand.

it's getting real flexy to thumb pressure when in the cradle & when gentle twists are applied out of the cradle.

tap tones are strong & bell like...i'm excited here.

at210.jpg

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this is my dry run prior to gluing the back to the sides.

built a clamping caul for the top side of the mold which has a plug, 1/2" thick, that fits snugly into the top side of the mold.

at211.jpg


the sides are inserted & are held accurately 1/2" high by the plug, allowing access for aligning the back plate to the sides while installing clamps.

interior press is in place, locking everything, assuring vertical placement of the sides under clamping pressures.

at212.jpg


back plate is laid in place.

at213.jpg


clamping caul for the back plate is the carving cradle which has been removed from it's pedistal.

all of the clamping pressures are directed only to the rim of the plate assuring good contact as the glue cures.

at214.jpg

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Quote Originally Posted by iansmitchell

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I love it!!!

 

icon_lol.gif


______



i re-engineered my plate measuring device...way toooo much overkill with the dial indicator...too sensitive & jittery acting for what i'm doing.

want to read it at a glance & move on.

at215.jpg


ah, the absolute understated elegance of simplicity!

markings are 1/4" & 1/8" with 3/16" in between...that's all i need to know with this.

at216.jpg

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been meaning to post this...this is the shot posted previously with the white bone nut blank.

at165.jpg


same piece of bone after soaking in the full strength rit fabric dye.

color is in the bone...i can't scratch it off with my thumbnail.

the look of ebony...the hardness of bone for longevity.

the light speck at upper right of nut is a speck of sawdust...i spotted it & went to check.

at217.jpg

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Quote Originally Posted by meandi

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been meaning to post this...this is the shot posted previously with the white bone nut blank.

at165.jpg


same piece of bone after soaking in the full strength rit fabric dye.

color is in the bone...i can't scratch it off with my thumbnail.

the look of ebony...the hardness of bone for longevity.

the light speck at upper right of nut is a speck of sawdust...i spotted it & went to check.

at217.jpg

 

Do you expect any white to show when you file the slots?


If so, will you be able to get some more dye in there after they are cut?

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i still don't know how deeply the dye has penetrated the bone.

if it's deep enough, i can just cut/shape the nut/saddle & install...if not the dye process would have to occur after fitting.

stew mac has an ebony stain for blacking fingerboards, i'm going to try it for this as well.

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overhang on the plate has been flushed with the sides, giving a finished appearance.

at221.jpg


interior of the body has been given a coat of varnish to seal from moisture.

finish really makes the grain pattern of the wood come alive.

at222.jpg

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Quote Originally Posted by meandi

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icon_lol.gif


______



i re-engineered my plate measuring device...way toooo much overkill with the dial indicator...too sensitive & jittery acting for what i'm doing.

want to read it at a glance & move on.

at215.jpg


ah, the absolute understated elegance of simplicity!

markings are 1/4" & 1/8" with 3/16" in between...that's all i need to know with this.

at216.jpg

 

Alright, enough! Even the jigs you build for yourself are worth admiring. I'm starting to feel inadequate. I'll never try to build another birdhouse for as long as I live.
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