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I'm going to try to do my own set-up. Is there a specific order to follow?


apostrophe

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Im going to be going up a guage on my Dot, from 10-46 to 11- 49 with a wound G. I have never done a set-up myself, and this guitar has never had a pro set-up either.

 

To be honest it plays like a damn dream with perfect action and an incredibly fast neck!

 

After I put the new strings on, what should I do next? Adjust the height first, and then tackle the intonation?

 

Also, how do I know if there is something wrong, like if it needs a truss rod adjustment or something? If it plays well and sounds good, then am I in the clear?

 

Thanks guys!

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never try that at home! at least not without the proper tools. you can get the set on MF for about $225 i think.

 

the last guy that tried it here with regular tools not made for setups spent the night in the ER with a slashed wrist. (string flew and cut him)

 

seriously, i wouldnt recommend it alone. but, if your that adventurous, the tool set is on MF, good luck and godspeed if there is a god.

 

now that my evil ass is clean, i will be good from now on. :thu:

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Put on your string.

 

Adjust the neck relief (truss rod).

 

Adjust your action.

 

Tune to pitch, make sure your action is where you want it.

 

Once tuned to pitch, adjust your low E intonation....retune all strings. Intonate the next string..retune all strings.

 

Repeat for the remaining stings.

 

Done.

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here's what I do when setting up a guitar

 

Put new strings on

 

Tune to pitch

 

Adjust truss rod until neck is fairly straight with a small amount of bow

 

Tune to pitch

 

Lower action almost all the way. Raise it until you get desired amount of fretbuzz

 

TUne to pitch

 

Check neck to make sure truss rod doesn't need adjusting

 

Intonate

 

Tune to pitch

 

You don't need a $225 set of tools to set up a guitar, just an allen wrench and a screwdriver

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Originally posted by seaofstrings

never try that at home! at least not without the proper tools. you can get the set on MF for about $225 i think.


the last guy that tried it here with regular tools not made for setups spent the night in the ER with a slashed wrist. (string flew and cut him)


seriously, i wouldnt recommend it alone. but, if your that adventurous, the tool set is on MF, good luck and godspeed if there is a god.


now that my evil ass is clean, i will be good from now on.
:thu:

WTF? :confused:

:rolleyes:

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going up to that gauge you probably will need to adjust the truss rod. i would do it thusly:

 

1. put new strings on

2. tune to pitch

3. check neck relief

4. detune strings a bit

5. tighten truss rod

6. back to step 2 until the neck relief is how you like it

7. set action at the bridge

8. tune

9. intonate

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Originally posted by sunset_gun

Put on your string.


Adjust the neck relief (truss rod).


Adjust your action.


Tune to pitch, make sure your action is where you want it.


Once tuned to pitch, adjust your low E intonation....retune all strings. Intonate the next string..retune all strings.


Repeat for the remaining stings.


Done.

 

I think you want to tune to pitch before adjusting your truss rod (may not be necessary) and adjusting your action.

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Originally posted by sunset_gun

Put on your string.


Adjust the neck relief (truss rod).


Adjust your action.


Tune to pitch, make sure your action is where you want it.


Once tuned to pitch, adjust your low E intonation....retune all strings. Intonate the next string..retune all strings.


Repeat for the remaining stings.


Done.

He doesn't have to adjust the truss rod unless it needs it.

 

Just change your stings. If the action is a little high lower the bridge. If the action is ok, then adjust the intonation. That is if you want to. The intonation is the last thing you should adjust.

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Originally posted by air guitar

He doesn't have to adjust the truss rod unless it needs it.


Just change your stings. If the action is a little high lower the bridge. If the action is ok, then adjust the intonation. That is if you want to. The intonation is the last thing you should adjust.

 

 

 

How does one know if the truss needs adjusting?

 

Thanks!

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Originally posted by seaofstrings

never try that at home! at least not without the proper tools. you can get the set on MF for about $225 i think.


the last guy that tried it here with regular tools not made for setups spent the night in the ER with a slashed wrist. (string flew and cut him)


seriously, i wouldnt recommend it alone. but, if your that adventurous, the tool set is on MF, good luck and godspeed if there is a god.


now that my evil ass is clean, i will be good from now on.
:thu:

 

I think its worth saying again.

 

WHAT THE {censored} IS THIS?

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Originally posted by apostrophe




How does one know if the truss needs adjusting?


Thanks!

 

 

That is a good question.....I know all the steps involved in setting my own guitars up but I still send it out because I'm a little iffy on neck tweakage. I'd like to hear y'alls answer too.

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Does anyone throw a straight edge (like a 2 foot carpenter's square) on the neck to figure out what flat is? I've never done my own setup, but I always wonder if you need to find '0' first or just start cranking. Just sighting flat would be kind of hard, no?

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Originally posted by apostrophe




How does one know if the truss needs adjusting?


Thanks!

 

 

The truss rod adjusts the amount of relief, or bow, in the neck. How much you want is really a presonal preference but, most people shoot for as little as possible without getting any string buzz.

 

The way I chesk relief is I hold down the low E at the first and last frets at the same time, then chcek the distance between the string and the 8th or 9th fret. You should be able the just fit somthing the thickness of a business card in there.

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Originally posted by apostrophe




How does one know if the truss needs adjusting?


Thanks!

 

 

Truss rod adjustment is dependent on whether you need it........OK......you restring, tune close and then check if the action is OK all the way along the neck. I would guess the neck will take on some relief from the change in strings. If it does then you will need to tweak the TR, maybe 1/8 - 1/4 turn from high E to low EFor fine adjustments you will need to tweak it at night and then leave it to settle. Once the neck is the shape you want it, check the action again and adjust if neccesary. Then once the action and neck relief is to your liking tune and intonate

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I'm amazed at the bad infol. Here's how I do my killer setups.

 

1. Change Strings.

2. Tune.

3. STRETCH THE STRINGS OUT.

4. Tune and repeat 2-3 until they stay in tune after stretching.

5. Without using one of those neck cradles, retune and adjust the

action. Make sure the neck is not supported for this part.

6. Adjust truss rod if necessary.

7. Intonate. Once again, no support under the neck.

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Actually it's worth doing this.

 

You say at the moment it plays beautifull and you love the action and set up.

 

I would measure the most important dimensions that make it what you like.

 

Sight from the bridge down the neck

1. Is the neck flat

2. Does it have relief

3. What is the relative height of the bridge

4. Look at some of the stup pages and decide which one you can follow and look at the procedures for measuring the bow/relief....it's useful to have a set of feeler gauges.

 

This is a nice page:

 

http://www.icepoint.com/guitar/Setting%20up%20your%20electric%20guitar/

 

What I'm saying is measure as much as you can, so that when you change those strings you can get it as close to where it was before....the wound G will probably change things a tad. so measure the High and low Es above the pups...neck and bridge, measure them at the 21/22 fret....take as many measurements as you can...and then compare your setup to what it is now. You'll find out so much about how your guitar reacts to adjustments as well:thu:

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Originally posted by 1esotericguy

Does anyone throw a straight edge (like a 2 foot carpenter's square) on the neck to figure out what flat is? I've never done my own setup, but I always wonder if you need to find '0' first or just start cranking. Just sighting flat would be kind of hard, no?

 

It is difficult to separate dead flat from slight relief by just sighting, and its always subject to a tad of parallax error

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I always adjust the TR by sight. You can tell when you get it right, because it will intonate without much fussing about, or, put another way, when you {censored} up the Truss Rod, the intonation will {censored} with you.

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Wow thanks for all the great replies!

 

I think I'm going to take some time this weekend to really sit down, and take my time, and do the best I can!

 

Just me, my guitar, and a bottle of beer. Makes for a good Satuday afternoon!

 

Thanks again for all the tips, I really appreciate it!

 

My biggest concern is doing something to it that I can't take back. Like a permanant screw- up or something...

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Originally posted by apostrophe

Wow thanks for all the great replies!


I think I'm going to take some time this weekend to really sit down, and take my time, and do the best I can!


Just me, my guitar, and a bottle of beer. Makes for a good Satuday afternoon!


Thanks again for all the tips, I really appreciate it!


My biggest concern is doing something to it that I can't take back. Like a permanant screw- up or something...

 

 

Good idea.......try n make sure no bitches disturb you either:cry:

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Quick Trussrod troubleshooter:

 

While seated with guitar in playing position

1.use right arm elbow to push all strings down onto pickups

2.lefthand presses strings at first fret

3.look at space between low e string and fretboard at 12 fret

4.use right hand thumb to push low e at 12 fret to judge amount of relief

5.if there is no space your neck is flat .if there is a space you have some bow.

6. adjust as necessary.

 

I always intonate in playing position as well.Never use a table w/neck rest. If neck is rested or touching anything while adjusting results will change as soon as you strap it on.trust me

good luck:thu:

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