Members zoinghun Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 is this doable without a spray booth and a nice gun? sorry for the terse post, but i've been lookinig everywhere for some instructions but haven't been able to find anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BootRoots Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 www.reranch.com your search is over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zoinghun Posted July 19, 2008 Author Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 that's nitro? i was specifically asking about poly finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Electric Blues Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 that's nitro? i was specifically asking about poly finish. Since you're so "specific" smartass... What exactly do you want?Polyester or Polyurethane? :poke: What the hell... let's help the noob out.What you want is Polyurethane paint. Rust Oleum or even some hobby paints are Polyurethane. You can get it in spray cans so you won't need special equipment, although you will NEED to use a good breathing mask. One of those cheap material ones won't cut it. I guess you'll have to borrow a good one, thay are expensive. Practice and a lot of spare wood first until you get the hang of it. A mirror shine comes from sanding not polishing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members cavpilot Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tutorial5.htm... this will give you a place to start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members milosch Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 Dude, he did say poly at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members thick_mike Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 Just to be clear, 2 component polyurethane finishes are very hazardous. They contain polyisocyanates that are sensitising. This means that they can bring on a potentially fatal asthma attack at very low concentrations (after the first, or 50th exposure). Industrial users of these finishes use positive pressure air fed masks, although cartridge masks can be used (you should make sure the particular cartridge you are sing is the correct one and that it is within its use by date). I know some people will say they spray these finishes in their back yards with no precautions and they're OK, but they have just been lucy (so far). Sorry to go on... Cheers Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members HanSolo Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 Forget poly. It's a one-shot finish, That is, one-shot at getting it right when you apply. Blow it and you have to recoat it. Doesn't wet sand or buff worth a damn for a high gloss finish. OK for satin finsh because you can dull it down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members axegrinder Posted July 19, 2008 Members Share Posted July 19, 2008 I've had good luck with Rustoleum topped with DEFT (nitro). Why does the OP prefer poly? The Deft spray cans produce an awesome spray pattern and particle sizes that flow out nicely and evenly. The pay off is it buffs out to a glossy sheen and the body still remarkably feels and resonates like wood. Just let it cure a week or two or four depending on your climate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members zoinghun Posted July 20, 2008 Author Members Share Posted July 20, 2008 i wanted poly because i didn't want yellowing and as far as i can tell, lacquer takes many many finishes and longer time between coats. (more work?) i just wanted something durable. i haven't been able to tell the sound difference between poly and nitro. i know it's a controversial subject, but it's subjective in the sense that if i can't tell the difference, it doesn't matter. when my ears get good enough to be able to tell the difference, i'll get nitro and all will be well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Townshend Posted July 20, 2008 Members Share Posted July 20, 2008 i wanted poly because i didn't want yellowing and as far as i can tell, lacquer takes many many finishes and longer time between coats. (more work?) i just wanted something durable.i haven't been able to tell the sound difference between poly and nitro. i know it's a controversial subject, but it's subjective in the sense that if i can't tell the difference, it doesn't matter. when my ears get good enough to be able to tell the difference, i'll get nitro and all will be well. FWIW, Deft won't yellow, and it's readily available and easy to apply. Might not be as durable as Poly, but it sure looks nicer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members badone07 Posted July 20, 2008 Members Share Posted July 20, 2008 Here's a non-spraying poly option for you. This may be get similar results to Minwax's wipe-on poly. Haven't ruled out an acrylic lacquer yet, but I may try this on one my projects as well. http://www.joewoodworker.com/spitcoating.htm edit... You could paint it first, then do the procedure above. Depending on how thick you want the finish, gloss paint underneath will thicken up quicker. I was experimenting with poly last week & prefer flat underneath. A thin coat of gloss poly makes it look glossy without the plastic feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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