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About to start my first build and need advice


colin617

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I have decided to forgo my dream of owning a Fender Starcaster since I actually got to play one. What the hell was I thinking? (This is why you should always try before you buy; just because someone famous uses it does not make it good).

 

I am ready to build!

 

Today being the anniversary of John Lennon's death led me to listen to Beatles albums all day. Following my disappointment with the Starcaster, I decided to pursue my own project. What better way to do this than buy building an exact replica of the guitar of the man that inspired me to play? I want to build "Rocky". So far, I have searched Warmoth and come up with a list of what I need and have concluded that this project will take awhile (I'm a broke student, give me a break).

 

Here we go:

Warmoth 1-piece alder body, SSS, trem -- $240

Warmoth Quarter-sawn maple neck/indian rosewood, boat neck contour, 1 11/16 nut -- $197

Fender Vintage Synchronized Trem (chrome) -- $90

Fender CS '69 Strat Pickups -- $190

Fender Vintage '62 11-hole 3-ply pickquard -- $20

3-way switch -- $14

1 volume, 2 tone knobs (white) -- ~$7

Strat switch knob (white) -- $1.25

Chrome recessed Jack plate -- $5.50

3 250k pots -- $15

wiring -- $8

Standard Strap buttons (chrome) -- $3

Dunlop 6230 fretwire -- $5.50

copper shielding tape -- $6

Graphtech nut -- $10

Gotoh vintage machine heads -- $28

Chrome neck plate -- $4.50

 

I think that is it. I am not wholly satisfied with the neck and will probably try to find a used on from a '62 RI Fender (to cut down on the work). I am trying to make this guitar as accurate a possible, so any information anyone has about Rocky is greatly appreciated!

 

Please advise me on this project! (pics will come, but I anticipate this guitar to take up all extra funding I have for the next year).

 

Also, how do I go about painting this?

 

Thanks guys!

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Well, your parts list roughly totals what you can get a MIA strat for, so I'm assuming you are doing this more for the Rocky thing than to save money. You've picked out some top quality parts. There are a lot cheaper ways of building a Rocky clone, particularly since the paint pretty much covers everything up. As for painting it, make friends with someone who is an art major at the college where you're going (preferably an attractive female) and have him/her paint it for you. Finish it with clear lacquer.

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I have little to offer but questions... but...


You're paying $197 for a Warmoth neck without nut or frets? Why?


I bought one recently for $135, my choice of frets, 1 3/4" nut, paid another $30 for graphite nut installation. No finish. And that's a "pro" model. Probably not quarter-sawn, but I'll bet "Rocky's" wasn't either, and it for sure didn't have all the extras of Warmoth's pro line.


IMHO, you probably don't want to do the fretting on your first build. Seriously. That's WHY people buy Warmoth necks.


If you're going to paint it anyway, you could save a chunk buy going with a used body that has finish problems. That, and pick up a lot of the bits and pieces (guitar giblets) from eBay.

 

 

^this^

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Well, your parts list roughly totals what you can get a MIA strat for, so I'm assuming you are doing this more for the Rocky thing than to save money. You've picked out some top quality parts. There are a lot cheaper ways of building a Rocky clone, particularly since the paint pretty much covers everything up. As for painting it, make friends with someone who is an art major at the college where you're going (preferably an attractive female) and have him/her paint it for you. Finish it with clear lacquer.

 

 

Yeah, it is more for the Rocky thing.

 

John and George got me into guitar and music in general, so I want this guitar to be something personal -- something that I oversaw every step of the way and put blood, sweat, and tears into-- not a mass produced thing that I paid someone to paint.

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I have little to offer but questions... but...


You're paying $197 for a Warmoth neck without nut or frets? Why?


I bought one recently for $135, my choice of frets, 1 3/4" nut, paid another $30 for graphite nut installation. No finish. And that's a "pro" model. Probably not quarter-sawn, but I'll bet "Rocky's" wasn't either, and it for sure didn't have all the extras of Warmoth's pro line.


IMHO, you probably don't want to do the fretting on your first build. Seriously. That's WHY people buy Warmoth necks.


If you're going to paint it anyway, you could save a chunk buy going with a used body that has finish problems. That, and pick up a lot of the bits and pieces (guitar giblets) from eBay.

 

 

True. Thanks! I do want this to be as historically accurate as possible. Plus, the thought of fretting terrifies me (and so does paying someone to do this, thus setting the completion back even further).

 

Can I get a link?

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Make those CTS 250k pots switchcraft switch and jack..

Youll need some caps.

Get SS frets (Stainless Steel)

Like said I would just get one of the Warmoth Pro necks with SS frets, RW $177

I would also get just a standard Swamp ash strat body $170.

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Sure! Ah... to what?


The neck? I happened to spot it for sale on Warmoth's "Screamin Hot Deals" list, a LOT passes through there, it's worth keeping an eye out.




Be aware that Warmoth uses a compound-radius fingerboard by default, that won't be entirely accurate. My reference says the neck was dated 1961, so it might be a soft "V", but others here will know more about that than I would. Apparently the body was originally Sonic Blue.

 

 

Yeah, the neck link. Sorry, I should have specified. Haha.

 

Thanks for that!

 

To the guy above me, I am pretty sure Rocky was an alder body, but the rest of your tips have been noted.

 

Does anyone have any links to info on the guitar?

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That's almost a frightening statement, considering that you're talking about a pre-CBS Strat.


I think maybe one of your first steps should be to decide exactly what you mean by that, what parts of "historically accurate" are important to you, and what parts you're willing to compromise on. It's going to affect every single decision from that point forward- neck, frets, wire, finish, Patti Boyd's green glitter nail polish`.. everything. Some steps toward authenticity that may or may not matter to you are going to add a lot of expense, and some may actually compromise playability a bit.


I foresee interesting challenges, but it seems like a fun project. Hope you'll keep us in the loop as it progresses.

 

 

Some good points ,For sure if your going to drop this kind of cash take your time and think things through.

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That's almost a frightening statement, considering that you're talking about a pre-CBS Strat.


I think maybe one of your first steps should be to decide exactly what you mean by that, what parts of "historically accurate" are important to you, and what parts you're willing to compromise on. It's going to affect every single decision from that point forward- neck, frets, wire, finish, Patti Boyd's green glitter nail polish`.. everything. Some steps toward authenticity that may or may not matter to you are going to add a lot of expense, and some may actually compromise playability a bit.


I foresee interesting challenges, but it seems like a fun project. Hope you'll keep us in the loop as it progresses.

 

 

I plan to order the body and various other parts directly after christmas. Then I will keep updating this thread as the build progresses.

 

As far historically accurate goes: I should have put "within reason". I'm not going to track down an actual set of '61 strat tuners, but I also will not be using locking tuners. Things along those lines...

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A whole lot more comes to mind...


Apparently the original had no hole and no plug in the headstock for the truss rod end. In that period, I'm pretty certain that means no "skunk stripe" either, the back of the neck would have been solid maple, the truss rod adjustment from the body end of the neck only. This:




... might come close, but of course, the original would have had only 21 frets. Would the marker dots have been "cream" or "mother of plastic"? I'm guessing the latter, but not sure.


Looks like most of the back, maybe all of it, the edges and a little of the front were still the original Sonic Blue, probably a lot glossier and shinier than the "hand painted" parts. Nitro finish only? Your call.


It sort of goes on and on that way...

 

 

Yeah, I am starting to see some things I am going to need to put some serious thought into first. Do you have any more info on rocky or pre-cbs strats in general? I am pretty noobish when it comes to these sorts of things and you are being most helpful. I greatly appreciate it!

 

To the guy suggesting Lennon: I want a guitar I can build and devote time to; an instrument I can be extremely proud to say I own. I feel like I would mess up trying to mod casino, and the Les Paul, Ric, and Gibson Acoustic are too expensive. Plus, I was more influenced by Harrison's playing and Lennon's songwriting, so owning a replica of Rocky would make more sense to me. Now if I can just get my hands on a rosewood tele...

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I suggest you practice the paintjob on a squier bullet before buying anything else.


Then sell the bullet to me for half what you paid.

 

 

I like the idea of getting a hot art major to do the painting for me better....

 

Sorry:wave:

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The thing about that first "dream guitar" build is that after you've spent a fortune and imagined this tone beast you'll end up with you start to realize that it can be the luck of the draw finding that exact right combo of parts that really works well together. Which is why I suggest trying and buying a standard. Or keeping your first build simple and the expectations reasonable.

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I suggest a MIM standard and then paint it if you must.

 

 

Its not so much a strat that I want, it is THIS strat I want. Its more of a tribute to my idol than an instrument. If I wanted to buy a Beatles guitar just for the sake of having the name attached, I would have bought Lennon's casino ages ago.

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The thing about that first "dream guitar" build is that after you've spent a fortune and imagined this tone beast you'll end up with you start to realize that it can be the luck of the draw finding that exact right combo of parts that really works well together. Which is why I suggest trying and buying a standard. Or keeping your first build simple and the expectations reasonable.

 

 

This will probably rarely be played

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I understand, I just think it's a bad idea and advise against it.

 

 

I see your concern, but I have to start somewhere. I figured a strat would be a pretty easy guitar to start with. I am not too worried; I have the combined knowledge of HCEG and a local guitar tech looking over my shoulder.

 

I've changed pickups and done electrical work before, so that will be no problem. My biggest issue will be researching Rocky and then getting the correct pieces (and making sure they fit together).

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