Newb wants to build valveking footswitch

So I just purchased a valveking 100 head and I need a footswitch for it. I have a Crate 3 button one lying around not being used so I'd like to convert it into a proper footswitch for my new head. I came upon an old thread here in my research but unfortunately, as I am pretty unexperienced, the schematic I found might as well be in latin even though it looks simple enough.

So I guess I am asking for possible visuals or anything to help guide me in my quest?

I attached the found schematic. I can describe my crate footswitch if it will help:

The input Jack has 6 prongs which I am assuming (as a newb) goes: tip-ring-sleeve each having 2 on either side.

The push button has three prongs more or less in a line.

I am also assuming I don't need to describe the other input and button as my peavey, in order to replicate the already manufactures ones, only has two buttons.

So yeah any help would be greatly appreciated guys! Thanks!

Ryan

and woah sorry about the big size.

The crate uses the 6 pin (as does PV in the Ultra/XXX/JSX) to activate 3 or 4 functions by connecting a voltage to ground with the foot switches. You only need 2 circuits so you can chop off the 6 pin connector and strip the wire ends to figure out how to wire it. A voltage meter works best; check for continuity (low resistance) between two wires when a switch is punched. There should be several wires which conduct to a common wire when a switch is punched, say a red and a green which both conduct to a black wire when different switches are punched. The black wire (or whatever color you find!) is the "common" wire. That wire gets soldered to the "sleeve" of a 3 conductor (stereo) 1/4 phone plug you can buy at Radioshack or online. The two wires which switch are then soldered to the tip and ring conductors. The "TRS" plug looks like this:

remember to seal off the other unused wires, or they could short out, heat shrink tubing works best for this. If you can't swing a voltage meter a flashlight bulb and battery could be used too!

Have you tried the Crate f/s yet? It may work & just have a 3rd redundant switch. No you won't cook the new amp. If not, open up your f/s. Them 2 doo hickeys at the top of your schematic represent your switches. Now you can probably see the relationship to the switches in your Crate f/s.

On your 1/4" jack you can see that sleeve is ground. That's what tip, ring, sleeve represents. Where the 2 wires have that black dot thingy, that means they are joined together. The remaining wires in the cable go to each switch respectively. If your Crate switch doesn't work you may be better off buying one. A universal 2 button switch will work fine. I've seen them on Evilbay for around 25 bucks. If I didn't have the stuff to make a couple in my shop that's what I'd do as you almost can't build one for that price. And I'd avoid phucking with the Crate switch. Never know. Someone might need it.

Hey guys thanks for the responses! In response first to Customs question: Yeah I tried it expecting it to work and it did not. The LEDs were activated but it did nothing in the way of switching channels or activating the boosts. That's when I got to doing some research and found out that Peavey does something weird with the footswitches. What that thing is I don't remember exactly. So I did some experimenting and some more research, found the above schematic etc. I tried resoldering some of the connections based on what a few of those old threads said but I haven't had any real luck. And being a guy who is not super knowledgeable about the subject (or prepared, I pretty much don't have any of the tools necessary to do what Ted suggested) I decided it would probably be best to ask the people who are experienced in reading schematics etc.

So! below is a crudely drawn in paint version of basically what my crate footswitch looks like without anything wired in save for the LEDs. I guess when it comes to this stuff I'm a visual learner. But according to the schematic above...how do I hook that up to the switch and input jack?

[ATTACH]308721[/ATTACH]

again, thanks guys!

Just an fyi the little diagram I drew is the view from underneath I guess.

So I took a stab at illustrating my diagram according to as much of the schematic as I can understand/guess. Let me know, how far off I am in my guesses...

I feel like the middle switch is most definitely wrong haha so I don't know. Any help is appreciated!

[ATTACH]308732[/ATTACH]

I'd be tempted to get some 2 wire plus shield cable @ Radio Shack. Also get the 1/4" stereo jack while you're there. If your switches are 2 conductor you can wire it up using those. If not I've used the heavy duty lamp switches available at Ace Hardware. They work great. Get some wire nuts while your there. Just make a diagram of the existing wiring in case you ever want to return it to stock. Look closely at you 1/4" jack to determine which conductor is ring, tip & sleeve. Make sure the shield goes to sleeve & to one conductor on each switch. Run one remaining wire to one switch & the other to the other. Done. And it doesn't matter which conductor on the switch you use.