Project: Building a New Snare

Okay, so I'm not building it from scratch, but I thought some of you might be interested if I detailed my new snare build. I've only done one before, and it was a lot loftier (sunrise fade lacquer), so hopefully this goes pretty smooth.

My last snare project, done in under a week!

The plan is a 6x14 10-ply Keller maple snare. I've got a 7x14 8-ply right now, and it's too deep and low-pitched for my tastes. I'll be re-using the hardware (All Star single-point turret lugs, 2.3mm hoops, Trick strainer). Since I'm not thrilled with my current kit, I also figured this would be a good test drive in terms of putting together a new kit.

Current snare drum. I'll be re-using the hardware, including the lugs, which were custom made by All Star.

The shell is coming from Saluda via Drum Gear Online. I've been very happy with them and have used them for the last few years (they drilled and edged my 7x13). Unfortunately their builder left so I will be attempting to drill the drum myself, but they will supply double-45 edges and snare beds.

The finish should be fairly simple. My current kit has a blue fade and while it looks nice, I think I'd be happier with something classic that won't go out of style any time soon. I've picked up some Maloof's poly/oil and oil/wax from Rockler's and will do a satin finish. From what I've seen, though, with a little lemon oil, the wood takes on a wonderful glow that really sets it off. With the chrome hardware, it should really look beautiful.

Example of a Maloof finish...wonder if I can get that same look?

Anyways, the shell comes in today, and I need to make a supply run tonight. I've got the oil and wax and some 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper. I'll be picking up some more sandpaper, although I'm still not sure how many coats I want to do (I'm thinking 400, 800, 1200 with the oil/poly and 1500 and steel wool or 2000 with the oil/wax). I also need a sponge to back the paper for wetsanding, some blue painters tape and a Sharpie marker for layout, a box of t-shirt rags to apply the oil, and a drop cloth so I don't make a mess.

Stay tuned, hopefully I'll have a snare in a couple weeks!

Sounds cool. Did you pick up one of those layout templates to align the holes? Drumfoundry.com has some good tutorials.

Wait wait wait, if you don't like the depth of your 7x14 8-ply, then why are you re-using the lugs that stretch across that depth? Do they adjust?

For the snare I'm just planning on using a hoop and a T-square for the layout. I do have a layout file that I might take to Kinko's for the kick drum layout, but that's a ways out.

Good catch on the lugs! I'll be cutting down the bridges by an inch so they will fit the new snare.

cool man. good luck!

I got the layout mat that Drum Foundry sells. Excellent thing to have laying around if you build drums.

Did you do that sunburst finish on the first drum? Mind sharing how that was done? Looks good!

Yes, I was looking at that mat. There's a version on DrumShed that's free that you can take to Kinko's and get printed for $15 or so. I might go that route for the kick because I don't want to spend $40 + S/H for the mat.

I did do the fade, thanks! Here's what I remember:

1. Wipe down shell with damp cloth and let dry for 30 minutes to raise the grain. Then sand LIGHTLY at 320 grit.

2. Wipe on dye (Transtint water based I believe) with cotton t-shirt rag. Get the shell nice and wet for vibrant color. Let dry for an hour, then wipe on another coat. LOTS of color.

3. Spray fade (more Transtint dye in a different color) with $15 Harbor Freight airbrush and tiny air compressor. Avoid spraying too much with a tiny airbrush because it will spatter dye on your drum, you'll have to use Clorox bleach, then stain again. Start at the bottom and slowly work up, then down, then up a little higher, then down, etc. Don't want to do it all in one step, because that's abrupt and looks cheap.

4. Apply Minwax sanding sealer with cotton t-shirt rag. Try to keep it fairly smooth and level, although the idea is to build a thick coat so no need to do super thin coats. Wait 24 hours.

5. Apply a second thick coat of Minwax sanding sealer. Wait 24 hours.

6. Wetsand with 600 grit paper. Best way was to add a couple drops of dish soap to a bowl of water for lubrication, then soak the paper in it for 30 seconds, then wrap it around a dense foam sponge and sand horizontally with light pressure. The finish should look dull. If you have any shiny pits, wetsand with a lower grit (400). That's why you need a couple thick coats of sealer, so you don't sand through.

7. Spray Deft gloss lacquer out of a rattle can. Very thin coats, a side to side motion, avoid drips and runs. Lacquer melts onto itself, so I waited for a sunny day with no wind and sprayed a very thin coat every couple hours. Probably did eight coats, used two cans or so. Wait 24 hours.

8. Wetsand at 800 grit (might have had to drop to 600) as above, then wetsand at 1000 grit, then 1200, then 1500, then 2000 grit. Eventually it looks like a satin finish.

9. Polish with rubbing compound and a t-shirt rag. This will start to bring back the glossy look. Tiny circles, a fair amount of polish, and try and do them quickly to generate heat. Then buff with a clean soft rag. Then polish again with polishing compound for a high shine, and buff. Optional, wait a couple weeks and apply some carnauba wax.

10. This may have been done earlier, but I wiped a coat of Maloof's oil on the inside and on the edges to seal them. Make sure to mask the rest of the snare beforehand.

Raw Shell

Stained

Sprayed Fade

Sanding Sealer

Sanding Sealer (2nd coat)

Lacquer Sprayed

Lacquer Sanded

FINISHED!

Be sure to measure between your lugs when you're done to make sure they are equally spaced!

That's big fun, Jarick. Keep us apprised!

For sure! My dad's an engineer, so I've had the measure a dozen times, then drill mentality. I'll be double checking the length of all the lugs to make sure they are consistent, then centering them, and probably triple checking again. I did drill extra holes for my strainer on my first snare, so hopefully that keeps me from drilling more speed holes on this one

One more to add to the fire, here's my plan for finishing:

1. Wipe with Maloof oil/poly and t-shirt rag all over drum, then wetsand with 400 grit. Wipe off excess oil. Wait 24 hours.

2. Repeat above with 600 grit

3. Repeat above with 800 grit

4. Repeat above with 1000 grit and oil/wax

5. Repeat above with 1500 grit and oil/wax

6. Wait one week, then wax with 0000 steel wool and lemon oil.

7. For the inside, plan is to wetsand once at 400 grit. I'm also planning on doing the edges with some 0000 steel wool so they are nice and smooth, and once it's sealed and dried, a bit of carnauba wax to make tuning easier.

So hopefully that's fairly foolproof, has no serious polishing or leveling, and it comes out consistent. The shell is officially on my doorstep right now, so hopefully pictures tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks for that breakdown. I've been wanting to do a drum with a fade but I didn't think I could pull it off. Yours looks great though.

Yeah, but get the one from Kinko's laminated and see how much it costs...

I only need it once

I wouldn't say it was easy, but it wasn't hard either. Literally my first time doing any kind of finishing. I honestly have to say it looks a lot nicer than the custom kit I had made...the trickiest part is taking your time through all the steps and of course having the right tools. If I were to do a full kit, I'd need a bigger compressor and a detail gun (less than $40 at Harbor Freight). And an orbital buffer would really get it to have a mirror finish.

Poly is trickier to work with as you need to scuff between coats to get it to stick, and it might be different to sand. I liked the Deft lacquer as it was easy to apply (rattle cans) and came out nice. The oil should be even easier to work with since you don't have to build or level sand.

But it's very rewarding to build something like that and you can save a bunch of money! For anal retentive engineer types like myself who over-analyze every aspect of the instrument, having complete control is a big plus

Oh, one more cool thing with that snare (I need to polish it and take more pics): in dim light, it's almost orange, but it kind of glows. When light hits it, it becomes 3D and turns this golden yellow color. And of course it fades into the red. Very cool! I think it's because it's a dye, not a stain, so it penetrates the grain more fully. And the sealer/lacquer must have some kind of filtering effect on the light.

But it's very rewarding to build something like that and you can save a bunch of money! For anal retentive engineer types like myself who over-analyze every aspect of the instrument, having complete control is a big plus

Sounds like a project for me.... I love to build things and i am an engineer type..oh wait i am an engineer by trade too lol! I would love build a kit and i think i will someday.

Alright, snare is in, shell looks good, edges look good, picked up some stuff...time to roll!

Unfortunately no raw shell photos as the camera wasn't here, but you're not missing much.

Wiped down the shell with Maloof oil...it looks immediately better. Nice depth with the oil, shows the grain and color better, wish it were a bit more amber but that will come with time. The wetsanding was tricky...I think the shell was too smooth to begin with so I didn't get a ton of sawdust for a nice slurry. Anyways, I wetsanded with oil at 400 grit and wiped off the excess oil. Shell has a smooth finish, not yet the very smooth satin look and not enough depth in topcoat, but that's why you do multiple coats. Probably the next two will add a lot of depth, and the last coat will add that smooth texture.

I only need it once

You only gonna build one drum, then quit?

Mine sits against the wall between a couple shelves. I can pull it out tomorrow and build a snare, next year and build a kit, and four years from now to build another snare. It's still gonna be the same, and you still have to put your lugs on center.

You should pick up a router and a router table. Cutting your own edges is not only fun, but rewarding.

Yep, I'm only going to drill one bass drum. The rest have hoops with holes for layout. Of course, if I royally screw up this shell, I'll probably not take the risk, but that's why I'm doing the snare first. If I have trouble with the lug alignment, I'll probably get one of those templates.

The whole reason I'm building this snare and the rest of the kit is because a custom kit I had contracted to be built had poor edges and workmanship. It's frustrating to spend $2000+ and wait 8 months and receive something not up to your standards. Because the edges are so important, I'm going with a company that I know from personal experience does a great job. And they are cutting them for free.

I do have access to a router, have a 45 degree bit, and have cut edges, but because I've already wasted so much time and money trying to get what I want, I really would rather put my trust in someone else's experience.

One more great thing about Saluda: they e-mail you back same day, have great communication, good prices, and quick turnaround. Shell shipped in less than a week after ordering. I've also had positive experiences with Anderson International (the place where almost everyone gets their raw Keller shells) and Drum Foundry.

I believe AIT will sell you cut offs pretty damned cheap. They are useful for practicing edges. Two or three cutoffs, and you'll be ready to do your own.

Who was this?

Not a major builder by any stretch and he went very far out of his way to make up for it so I'd rather not say.