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  1. The Milkman Cometh - The Tale of Milkman Sound Steel players are sold ... can he win the six-string crowd? by Gearphoria's Blake Wright (adapted by Team HC) TIM MARCUS knew what he was doing, and that might make the tale of Milkman Sound that much more perplexing. A touring pedal steel player and audio/video tech, he decided in 2010, after years of tinkering with guitar amplifiers, that he would attempt a kit build. After assembling a MojoTone Tweed Princeton, figuring out what worked and what didn’t… what he liked and didn’t like, there was still little hint of things to come. Pedal steel players have historically not been spendy types when it comes to amplification. It would not be unusual to spot an aging Peavey nearby. Undeterred, Marcus decided that a boutique amp voiced specifically for pedal steel was something he wanted to pursue, if only for himself. Working for BBI Engineering in San Francisco, Marcus cut his teeth on large-scale audio/video builds for museums, conference centers… even churches. It was with BBI he learned the importance of building things to last. If you’re going to build an A/V system for a museum exhibit that could see tens of thousands of children pawing, scratching, and pulling at it, you’d better make it solid, and up to the challenge. “I started building amps for steel guitar,” recalls Marcus. “There was no boutique option for pedal steel at the time. Now there is a lot (Quilter, Dr. Z, etc…). I got laughed out of the room several times because when there is no boutique market, there are no boutique prices. So when you come in at that price point, people are like ‘What?! My Peavey was $500! I’ve had it since 1978!’ Then those guys buy one of my amps and they’re like ‘Ohmigod! I had no idea this guitar sounded like that.’” Milkman really began while Marcus was still at BBI, running it out of his bedroom, having stuff shipped to the office, and also shipping from there. He sold an early prototype to steel veteran Greg Leisz. It was the company’s first true sale and what really kicked off the business. Leisz heard about Marcus’ amps when he was on tour with Ray LaMontagne in support of the Pariah Dogs album through a guitar-playing friend. Leisz did send the amp back four or five times before it was "perfect," then subsequently, took it out on the road with Eric Clapton and Jackson Browne. Sticker shock aside, the steel community started paying more attention to Milkman, and by the end of 2013, Marcus had left BBI and prepared to go full time with his fledgling amp brand. He kept busy that first year, 2014, but Milkman was still somewhat of a mystery in conventional electric guitar player circles. That all changed in November 2014. The JM Bump. Guitarist John Mayer got hold of an 85-watt Milkman and reached out to Marcus. Mayer said it was one of the best new guitar amps he had heard in a long time. That has to mean something coming from a guy who has an arsenal of amps, Dumbles included, at his disposal. So impressed was Mayer, than he decided to help Marcus spread the word about Milkman. In November 2014, Mayer posted a ‘selfie’ on social media platform Instagram (inset) singing the praises of the small amp builder and his product. Mayer has roughly 1.4 million "followers" on Instagram. “He warned me,” recalls Marcus. “He called to tell me he was going to do that. They call it the ‘JM bump’... ‘Just so you know… you’re going to get busy… but I love the stuff so I’m going to give you guys a bump.'” No one knew who I was. People knew in the steel guitar community, but guitar players didn’t know what Milkman was.” Marcus’ inbox was flooded. Some were just tire-kickers, and several dealers from across the globe tested interest. “I kicked a lot of cans down the road, but then the orders did start coming,” says Marcus. “That’s around the same time I got picked up by my first dealer. I don’t know if he was part of the Mayer thing or if it was just a coincidence.” Today, Milkman, still a one-man operation, has about a half-dozen dealers. A shared booth at the 2016 Winter NAMM show netted a few new ones. Dealer orders have started to overtake direct orders now. “It used to be about 30% to dealers, but now… I went to NAMM with less than a dozen orders and I came back with over 70,” says Marcus. But it’s just s Princeton, right? Before you hear a Milkman for yourself, you'll probably assume that it's a high-end clone of Fender’s Princeton. The aesthetics, size, and overall appearance are strikingly similar, but that does some injustice to what Marcus is producing. Amps favoring the Fender look are nothing new. Most people, including gear heads, gravitate towards the familiar, so it can have its benefits. Milkman isn’t alone; Headstrong, Tyler and others have also adopted Fender’s cosmetic vibe, but there are other reasons for it as well. For Milkman, one chief factor was the abundant availability of parts. “It was easy to get parts to start out… and I’m used to Fender stuff,” confesses Marcus. “I like when you’re playing, sitting at your steel or playing your guitar, you can reach back and the knobs are there. I don’t like it when they're in the back or on top. Some Fender stuff was top-loaded like that, but I never used it. It looks classy and nice… and if you ask a six year old to draw a guitar amp, that is probably what they are going to draw. I’ve noticed also, after five or six years, if you go too crazy and make things look out there, nobody wants it. It doesn’t really make sense but it has to look familiar. You don’t want it to look like the Homer Simpson car.” While the classic Princeton and Milkman’s signature Creamer amp do look similar, once you get them side-by-side there are differences. The angles are different on the Creamer, and it’s more rounded. However, besides the appearance, folks also believe that the guts of the two amps are similar. “Ninety-nine percent of the people think I’m just building Princeton clones and they have no idea that it couldn’t be more different,” explains Marcus. “The bias of the amplifier is cathode bias on mine, which completely changes the sound and the feel…and the tremolo circuit won’t work because on a Princeton the tremolo modulates the bias, but when you don’t have a bias to modulate you have to do it a different way. It’s not a Princeton copy. It’s got way more compression than a Princeton has. It feels a lot more like a tweed amp, but it’s got the mid range dip like the later Fenders had. I’ve been fighting that Princeton thing from the beginning. Six knobs and a 12-inch speaker. It’s got to be a Princeton. Well, the Princeton had a 10-inch speaker. And it’s 12 watts versus 20. Princeton plates are getting maybe 300 to 350 volts. This, they’re running much, much higher than that. You can’t put a 6L6 in a Princeton. You can put one in this. They start to diverge after the ‘they both have six knobs’.” The Shop Out of his bedroom, today Marcus’ Milkman Sound is located in a cozy 200-plus square foot shop that is part of a studio/rehearsal space about 15 minutes north of the San Francisco airport. The day of our visit, the space was filling up fast with amps, pieces of amps and miscellaneous amp parts as Marcus continued working his way through the NAMM-driven backlog of builds. Marcus’s father-in-law was on hand assembling additional shelving units to hold completed and partially completed builds. The new rack was along the main wall across from the entrance and joined others filled with miscellaneous parts, transformers, etc. Along the shop’s far wall sat the "office," meaning a desk with a computer; directly to the right upon entry is Marcus’ workspace, which if you looked carefully revealed space for a potential hired hand to join the ranks in the future, which could be in the cards. However, another thing that could happen is an exodus from the Bay Area. As Milkman grows, it's not difficult to see a time (and possibly soon) when Marcus is squeezed for space. Given the real estate market in San Francisco, and the fact that it's fast becoming the most expensive city in the country, these could be an issue when attempting to upgrade locally. “San Francisco is done,” says Marcus. “It is the butt of the cigarette here. It’s been chewed up and spit out. There is nothing for creative people here. A lot of the venues have closed. There was a trend where they would build these expensive condos near the clubs. Residents would complain about the noise and [the city]would shut down the clubs, even though they had been there for 20+ years. It’s a mess. There are just not a lot of places to play. No musicians can afford to live here.” So what does that mean for Milkman? Relocation to the midwest has not been ruled out, and at least one prominent gear house has been courting them to head east. “I was talking with Josh Scott (JHS Pedals) recently and he’s trying to entice me to come to Kansas City,” reveals Marcus. “That’s where my wife is from. I’ve been very stubborn, but they are starting to wear me down. I have friends there. That’s where my father-in-law is. I’ve talked to my wife and a few more years and she’s probably done (here). I’ve been in the same place since 2009; it’s rent controlled so it’s not crazy, but it’s not cheap. I’d like to have a bigger shop with a roll-up door like Salvage (Custom near San Diego), but you’re not getting that here.” The Menu’s Expanding Since the beginning, Marcus has let his clientele dictate the research and development direction for Milkman. It is how the flagship Creamer came to be. It is also how the Half Pint sprang to life. (Trivia side note: It was the same customer.) So when clients bring their ideas to the table, if the concept has legs, Marcus will integrate it into the line. “I like to let my customers do my development,” explains Marcus. “Can you do this? Sure! So I build it and…there’s a new model. My whole business…my friend Max has been 'you should try this…do this.' I have a lot of models now… eight or nine.” Marcus is dabbling with a 10-watt version of the Half Pint, which would give him 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 85, and 300-watt amps on offer. He also is working on a 700-watter. The line diversity is one thing, but Marcus also has a variety of off-menu items, such as a bass amplifier. “It’s like In-And-Out Burger,” he says. “If you want a two-channel Creamer, I can do that. I’ve built a bunch of those. I’m open to ideas. I need the custom stuff for my sanity. How many Creamers in blonde can I build? I like doing the custom stuff. "I just did a custom two-channel version of my 300-watt amp for a guy in Portland. Definitely off-menu, but it’s pretty great. I’m thinking about doing something in the future that is kind of like a version of my 300-watt amp that's more for guitar players. I bought a head to NAMM, and we had it on a 2x12 cabinet and everybody that plugged into it loved it. I just brought it so steel players could check it out, but guitar players were loving it. So maybe I need to do a version with tremolo that’s voiced for guitar?” There are under 500 Milkman amps in the wild as of this writing. Marcus built just over 200 of those during 2015, with 60 of those shipping in the first quarter. The year before that he’d built 75. “I’m way behind that this year,” he confesses. “I was like ‘What the hell was going on last year?!’ And I’m like… oh yeah, John Mayer. I also had a new model out and all of the steel players were buying them." It takes Marcus anywhere from four to five hours to build out a Creamer. The number lands on the low side if he’s building more than one. For a single amp, it takes longer. “With dealers now, it’s much easier,” he says. “Someone orders six Creamers and four Half Pints, I just line them up and do them all at once.” As for the immediate future, beyond the possibility of a relocation further out, Marcus says he has no interest in joining the raft of amp makers that have started building and selling effects pedals. The only pedal he has in his line up is the channel switcher, and while he used to make those himself, those have since been farmed out to JHS. He also has no real plans to grow Milkman to dizzying heights, and he’s comfortable with that. “I’m not going to be building a thousand of these things a day,” he says. “I don’t think that will ever happen.” —G— Resources Republished with the expressed permission - www.gearphoria.com ____________________________________________ Blake and Holly Wright are Gearphoria. They travel full-time in their 25 foot Airstream while writing about cool guitars and guitar accessories. Gearphoria is a bi-monthly free-to-read online publication. You can visit their website by going to www.gearphoria.com and while you are there, sign up for their free e-zine.
  2. The Inside Story: Building the Masterbilt Century Guitars So, exactly what goes into making a modern archtop? by Team HC The new Epiphone Masterbilt Century Collection is--in many ways--a continuation of founder Epi Stathopoulo's dream to build a guitar that was elegant, timeless, groundbreaking and affordable. Though it might sound strange to call a new archtop with Art Deco-era design features "groundbreaking," the Masterbilt Century Collection is actually a futuristic guitar with the "look and feel" of its historic ancestors. Just as the original Masterbilt archtops were built to project over a big band and be heard in large dancehalls, the Masterbilt Century archtops are designed to hold their own with any rock band without sacrificing tone, thanks to the custom eSonic HD system. After all, great tone was what made the archtop the most desirable acoustic guitar of its era, so not being able to preserve that tone would have made the new models non-starters. The original Masterbilt Collection was created in a moment of inspiration and practicality. In the early 1930s, with banjo sales plummeting and fretted instrument sales rising, Epi Stathopoulo directed his staff to design a big, beautiful, and loud acoustic guitar. Launched at the dawn of the dance band era, Epiphone archtops were an instant hit, and for the next 15 years Epiphone acoustic archtops were revered by the best players along with brands like Stromberg, D'Angelico, and Gibson. But when rock n' roll arrived, acoustic archtop guitars virtually disappeared. The new era of popular music demanded volume. And though the profile remained, archtops went from being primarily acoustic guitars to electric guitars with an electric guitar magnetic pickup, effectively removing any tone from the "top." And for almost 50 years, as acoustic players turned instead to flattops, few realized that there was more than one kind of acoustic guitar sound. Building A 21st Century Archtop But bringing the classic Epiphone archtop tone into the 21st century required looking at the original designs with a critical eye to see what made them tick. Luckily, most of those answers could be found in the Epiphone Historic Collection at Epiphone's headquarters in Nashville, TN. "We've managed to build a collection of 50 pre-Gibson ownership instruments dating back to the early 1900's," said Gibson President Dave Berryman. "That era was very rich and we've tried to build a collection that's representative of all those key models. And we've been building on that slowly, so it's been a labor of love." When Richard Akers and Scott Harrison from Epiphone's R&D team were tasked with creating a new archtop for the 21st century, they were already familiar with the various designs of the Masterbilt era. "The longitudinal bracing was key to keeping that Epiphone tone," said Scott Harrison. "Every year was slightly different so we tried to put together the best qualities from that era, especially the bracing methods and solid wood tops." Epiphone archtops are renowned for their unique body shape--slightly different than Gibson (their main competitor at the time) as well as for their elegant hardware like the traditional tailpiece and machine heads. The new Masterbilt Century machine heads recreate the unique look of the originals but with a vastly improved tuning ratio. "We were able to maintain the retro vibe and art deco appearance of the historic tuners while improving the functionality." said Richard Akers. "With an 18:1 tuning ratio, you have greater accuracy and stability." Another inspiration for the Masterbilt Century Collection was the realization that many younger guitar players had never played a properly constructed archtop. "For many guitarists, playing an archtop will be an entirely new experience," said Harrison. "Most players haven't had an affordable alternative to a flattop guitar since Epiphone made the originals. Even pros have had a hard time finding vintage Epiphones--no one wants to let go of them." So what's so special about an archtop? For many, an archtop produces not only a slightly more focused sound without as many overtones as a flattop, but a more true expression of the player. For over twenty years, Grammy winner Dave Rawlings has performed practically all of his concerts and recording dates with Gillian Welch with an original 1935 Epiphone Olympic, precisely because it doesn't sound like a flattop guitar. Rawlings was impressed that the new Masterbilt Century Olympic will provide players the same unique tonal palette as his original. "A fiddle or a mandolin--anything else will destroy a bluegrass guitar unless you're Clarence White or Brian Sutton or someone who can jam that soundhole into a microphone and make it roar. My '35 Olympic is the kind of guitar that you could give to a dozen different people and they would find a way to make their living. It's just that right combination that makes for a magical box." Not just the sound, but the design matters too--so the new Masterbilt Collection features the iconic headstock banner--with its combination of elegant script with black and gold typeface--found on the rare, early 30s-era Epiphones. In addition to the sound quality, it's important to pay attention to the visual details that also made these guitars coveted . Size Meets Sound There are a variety of sizes available to players in the new Masterbilt Century Collection, a nod to the era of healthy competition when archtops went from small to big to bigger! And no matter what your style, a player will find their "voice" in a Masterbilt Century Guitar. The De Luxe and De Luxe Classic feature the 17" size body preferred by players who want maximum power and tone. The Zenith and Zenith Classic have a 16" body with a more focused tone, while the Olympic's smaller body and unique midrange make it a perfect lead instrument next to traditional acoustic guitars and mandolins. "Listening to people like the Delmore Brothers--where there was a tenor guitar and an acoustic--or the Blue Sky Boys where there was a mandolin and a guitar--that's what pushed me into wanting to hear something that was in that world," recalled Dave Rawlings on choosing his vintage Olympic. Unlike vintage budget archtops currently on the market (and often coming apart at the seams), the new Masterbilt Century Collection not only features solid wood tops but quality Ebony and Rosewood fingerboards. "These guitars will be so useful to players," said studio ace and rising Americana star Chris Scruggs. "They're made to last. And they're beautiful, too! It's great to see the vintage style headstock and the binding in a new guitar." - HC - Article adapted with the express written permission of Resources Visit Masterbilt Century Collection site for details and also visit the Epiphone History Page for more info on the original Epiphone Masterbilts. _______________________________________________________
  3. Eureka! Ronin is a Guitar Company Among Giants ... Literally by Gearphoria (adapted by Team HC) A HULKING, yet relatively unassuming building, backs up to North Channel Bay off Highway 101 in Eureka, California. Back in the 1970s, it was the home to shipbuilders who painted ship hulls and did other maritime construction tasks. Today, it's the unlikely home of Ronin Guitars — one of the world’s only guitar makers to use reclaimed old-growth redwood for electric and acoustic guitars. Ronin's roots also trace back as far as the ‘70s, when Jack Reed dabbled in recording and band management. But it was his son John who got him building guitars. The younger Reed was in New York at the time playing bass for a gigging band and turned to his father, who had been a hobbyist woodworker for several years, to build him an acoustic guitar on which he could compose music. ACOUSTICS TOO: John's father Jack spends most of his time building acoustics, including the recently-released Georgia Lee parlor plus pickup guitar. “I went and took my chainsaw…and what limited the size of the guitar is that the chainsaw didn’t have a very big bar on it… and went out to a redwood stump,” recalls the elder Reed. “We had 13 acres of redwoods on our property there (Humboldt County). I cut a block of wood and made this funny looking little guitar. All redwood. That’s how it started… nine years ago.” BIG TREES: 1,500-year old Redwoods in California - photo courtesy Redwoodhikes.com Not long after John received the guitar his father made, he met Izzy Lugo, known throughout the New York region as an ace guitar tech. The pair really hit it off. Later, John told Izzy that he was toying with the idea of building guitars out of old growth redwood, and handed him the redwood acoustic Jack had made. “He had no idea what it was… and later on said it wouldn’t work,” jokes the younger Reed. “You just don’t start building electric guitars out of something that no one has ever used, especially in such a fickle business. Then he played it… and he was like “Oh! What’s the deal here?!” So we flew him out to California and showed him this stump half the size of this room and told him that’s where this came from.” Soon, John and Izzy moved into a two-bedroom apartment in Midtown East in New York City and turned it into a guitar showroom and repair shop. They slept on the floor for about five years. The pair would fly back and forth from the Big Apple to the little Northern California shop, which at the time was on the Reed’s property. They would build in Humboldt County and bring the new guitars back to East Coast. “The back and forth just got too insane,” recalls John. “It was a secret shop. We knew a ton of musicians who would come over at all hours of the night. You could come by, have a beer, get your guitar worked on and play Street Fighter II on Nintendo. It was a musician’s dream! That’s the kind of shop it turned into after a while. It just got to the point where we had too many orders. New York itself was on a downward spiral. Studios were shutting down. Venues were shutting down. It got bad.” John and Izzy returned to California for good and continued to grow the brand, but it wasn’t always smooth sailing. The guitar business can be particular, as can many who play and collect guitars. There are familiar models — Les Pauls, Strats and Teles — and specific tone woods people gravitate towards. Plus the idea of a redwood guitar was off-putting to some simply due to the sheer majesty of the trees in question. “We got in so much trouble when we first came out and said we were making old growth redwood guitars because no one would finish reading the paragraph and realize that we weren’t cutting down these trees,” explains Lugo. “Do you realize that if you cut down an old growth redwood and want to dry it out organically so you can turn it into a guitar you have to wait 70 years to get it to that point?!” The Ronin crew freely admits they have pigeonholed their business. It is finite. Once the salvaged redwood runs out, so does Ronin’s run. This point was hammered home back in New York, when the company did build mahogany, swamp ash, alder and maple guitars… and couldn’t sell them after each stood against the all-redwood models. “We still have them all,” says John Reed regarding the non-redwood Ronins. “The are just carcasses. We disassembled them because nobody would buy them. We cannot sell a mahogany Ronin. It’s impossible now.” Redwood also is notoriously difficult to work with. It chips, splinters and is wholly unforgiving when mistakes are made. WOOD STORAGE: Ronan has an envious allotment of old growth redwood harvested from such unique places as a 20,000 gallon wine storage barrel. “The one thing about the redwood is that every process compared to any other wood takes twice as long when working with it. If you wick any Super Glue anywhere near redwood it soaks it up instantly,” says John Reed. “You do that with swamp ash, mahogany or maple and you can just sand it right off. That alone… it’ll take me a week straight just to prep of a finished guitar to go to paint, to make it look perfect. It is all quarter-sawn, so every time you sand over grain like this. When you switch to end grain, all of these little ripples do not want to flatten out. So if the customer wants the guitar to be perfectly flat with a thin nitro lacquer, it ain’t happening. We have to tell people that they are getting something that is not designed to sand perfectly. We get it 95% close, but if run your finger over thin nitro lacquer over end grain you are going to feel it.” The good news for Ronin is that while there is an end game, it remains years away. The partners have been diligent about sourcing reclaimed redwood, including harvesting useable wood from a dismantled 20,000 gallon wine storage barrel. Most of that wood resides in the dry room in the rear of the current Ronin shop. The front part of the ground floor is dominated by workbenches, saws and other tools of the trade… and space — lots and lots of space. The guitar builder actually shares the building with a nearby restauranteur. There is a large walled-off area to the right side of the room that the crew says was used in the past as a spray booth for automobiles. They plan to transform it into a spray booth for Ronins in the future. Upstairs is another workshop/jam room as well as the shop space Jack utilizes to build Ronin’s acoustics. This year marks one of change for Ronin. They have closed in on a complete revamp of the brand’s guitar range, eschewing many of the conventional guitar ‘shapes’ in favor of its own models. According to John Reed, “People want Teles, Les Paul style guitars, Firebirds, Juniors, all kinds of stuff… so we would make them, however we had a pretty great twist on those classics to the point where we never got a letter from a manufacturer, but I know a lot of folks who have because they got way too close. Ours were just far enough out, different head stocks and the like. "We decided to actually discontinue all of those as of about a month ago because we’re coming out with three new models this year plus this really cool electrified parlor acoustic with a pickup in it. So that will be nine completely unique designs by the end of this year. Right now there are five. And we make a ‘50s-style top-loading Tele-style. That’s not an original design, but we keep it because it’s popular.” Included in the revamp is a small hollow body dubbed Bad Moon and the aforementioned parlor plus pickup called the Georgia Lee. Pickups are a whole other side of Ronin, but it’s one you don’t get to experience unless you buy one of their guitars. FOIL BUCKERS: Ronin's new Foil Bucker pickups are coming soon. Partner Izzy Lugo graced us with a tasty demo. Earlier in the company’s life, they populated some of their guitars with original ’67 DeArmond Gold Foil pickups. These were acquired from a source that was able to obtain them after the DeArmond factory was shuttered, but that supply dried up quickly. “Back in 2008, the whole Gold Foil thing… Jack White had just started to do some stuff with it,” recalls John Reed. “We started putting these original ’67 DeArmonds in our Songbird model, which is like a two-pickup hardtail. It was our best selling guitar. We ran out of them within a year. Our supplier decided to keep the rest he had, so he told us we had better redesign it, because we weren’t getting any more.” So Ronin started the task of reengineering the classic pickup. In the process, they were urged by guitarist David Torn to create a hum-bucking version. A year and a life savings later, Ronin had their Foil Bucker. “In the process of creating that version, we re-did the single foil,” recalls John Reed. “The Foil Bucker… the reason why it's so big is because inside there are two completely uncompromised versions of this… the only difference is you have lower output when you tap the coil, but it’s not like trying to tap a humbucker and get a great Tele bridge pickup… that’s never going to happen. But we engineered it to where if you go into ‘single foil’ mode with this, it sounds like an old Gold Foil. Once these started to get out there, the sales went through the roof. The sales for the other… people were like why would I get a Kingbird (model) with three singles, when I can get the best of both worlds with the Foil Bucker? Sales for the Kingbird and the Songbird started to go way down, and we were like ‘What did we do!? We totally shot ourselves in the foot with this pickup.’” BAD MOON RISIN': John Reed shows off a pair of in-progress Bad Moons. It's unclear if Ronin will ever sell its new pickups without them being wrapped in a new Ronin guitar, but for now they are content to keep them exclusive to the brand. As for the future, that’s anybody’s guess, but the younger Reed does offer some insight on what could be in store — and it likely won’t include outside investors. “In five years, hopefully we’re in a shop that we own that is smaller… and not out of wood,” he says. “By next year we might start building an arch top. We have some people asking about it. We did have a couple of people trying to throw a bunch of money at us when we started. It was some real Crossroads crap. It was the Wayne’s World contract.” Republished with the expressed permission - www.gearphoria.com ____________________________________________ Blake and Holly Wright are Gearphoria. They travel full-time in their 25 foot Airstream while writing about cool guitars and guitar accessories. Gearphoria is a bi-monthly free-to-read online publication. You can visit their website by going to www.gearphoria.com and while you are there, sign up for their free e-zine.
  4. Guitar Tap Technique for Beginners Incorporate this legato technique into your playing by Kathy Dickson, GuitarTricks.com (adapted by Team HC) You've probably noticed by now that if you strike a string hard enough against the fretboard with the fingers of your fretting hand, you can sound notes without having to pick them. But did you know you can create the same effect using the fingers of your picking hand? It's called tapping, and if you want to seriously amp up the speed and coolness factor of your sound, then you need to try it. Tapping is a legato technique, meaning it incorporates hammer-ons and pull-offs to produce tone. Tap technique involves using the tips of your picking hand fingers on the fingerboard to hammer on and pull off strings in the same way you do with your fretting hand. By using both hands on the neck instead of having one hand fret notes while the other hand picks them, you can play two independent parts at the same time, much like playing a piano. A BRIEF HISTORY OF TAPPING Tapping on various stringed instruments has existed in some form or another for centuries. Jimmie Webster is often credited for having invented the technique. Webster recorded in the 1950s using a two-handed tapping method he described in a book called Touch System, which was published in 1952. Webster, however, credited electric pickup designer Harry DeArmond, Webster's teacher, for having developed the two-handed method as a way of demonstrating the sensitivity of his pickups. Guitarists such as Emmett Chapman, Randy Resnick, Chet Atkins, Stanley Jordan, Randy Rhoads, Steve Vai, Joe Satriani and others have pioneered two-handed tapping, but it was Eddie Van Halen who created a tapping craze in the late 1970s when he turned the guitar playing world on its tail with his dazzling fretwork on "Eruption." The song became a big part of Eddie's early sound and has gone down in music history as one of the most famous rock guitar solos of all time. TAPPING BASICS Learning to tap is easy enough to do. In fact, if you know how to execute a hammer-on and a pull-off, you already know the basics of tapping. Just like it is with your fretting hand, if you're hammering on a note with your picking hand, the force of your hammering dictates its volume: the harder you tap, the louder the note. If you're pulling off a note with your picking hand, how far you flick the string will determine its volume. To get the best sound with tap technique, it's important that your picking hand attack be accurate and done with force. Volume needs to be near that of a picked note, and all notes must sound even in volume and clarity. Tapping is most often done on electric guitar. It can also be performed on an acoustic or almost any stringed instrument, though it'll require a little more effort to get your hammer-ons and pull-offs to sound. The single most important factor for ease of tapping is the guitar's action. You want it low. Normal action can result in a weak, dull tone because a large portion of the attack will be the sound of your finger hitting the string. With low action, a very light tap will produce a crisp tone. Tapping is more effective on new strings as older ones weaken your sound. As for string gauge, lighter strings make it easier to tap, but the sound is less full and the dynamic range is reduced. Use your own discretion when choosing string gauge. And don't forget to trim your fingernails before playing so they don't get in the way. FINGERS VS. PICK VS. BOTH You can use any finger of your picking hand to tap, though most guitarists use either the index or middle finger, depending on whether or not they're holding a pick. If you're using a pick, an easy way to get into and out of tapping phrases is to hold the pick between your thumb and index finger and tap with the middle finger, which would be the closest available finger. Then, when it's time to resume normal picking, the plectrum will already be in position and ready to go. Some players will momentarily tuck the pick into their palm or cradle it in the crook of one of their knuckles when they go to tap and maneuver it back into its normal position (typically between the thumb and index finger) when they go to pick again. This might take some practice to pull off fluently. Eddie Van Halen holds his pick between his thumb and middle finger and taps with his index finger, while Randy Rhoads tapped with the edge of his pick. Experiment to see what technique works best for you. Tap speed and proficiency will increase if you minimize your movements and keep all relevant fingertips close to the strings when not in use so that they never have far to go at any given time. You may find that resting, or "anchoring," the thumb of your picking hand to the top side of the fretboard helps stabilize and steady the hand and increases the accuracy of your tapping movements. For added support, you can also hold on to the bottom of the neck with your ring and pinky fingers. Some players rest the heel of their hand on the guitar to tap, while others tap with their fingers completely unmoored and floating above the strings. Again, play around to see what feels right for you. TIME TO START TAPPING To learn to tap, begin by first practicing to sound notes with just your picking hand. Sound the note by hitting your finger straight down between the frets, tapping the string against the fret and holding it there for as long as you want the note to last. To cut off the note, lightly pull your finger straight off the string with as little side-to-side motion as possible. Sticking with your picking hand, now add in some hammer-ons and pull-offs. Generally, the fingers of your picking hand pull off upward toward the sixth string, while the fingers of your fretting hand pull off downward toward the first string. Be careful not to hit adjacent strings. When you're comfortable tapping with your picking hand, it's time to add in your fretting hand. When you're first learning to tap, start off nice and slow. Keep your tapping rhythm constant and focus on getting the technique down right. Only then concern yourself with speed. As with every technique you've learned to perform on the guitar, speed will come with mastery. And do tap on strings other than just the high E and B strings. Don't limit yourself. Try tapping on all six strings to see what you come up with. Tapping may make your fingers sore at first, so if you're brand new to the technique, don't practice too long at first. Give the fingertips of your picking hand time to adapt to their new task. You'll need to build up callouses on them in the same way you did your fretting hand fingers when you learned notes and chords as a beginner. Once you notice the fingertips becoming less and less tender, you can steadily increase the time spent on tap practice. This is an introduction into the world of tap technique. Use it as a springboard to find out more about tapping and how you can incorporate it into your playing. Know that it takes time and perseverance to be able to tap with both hands synchronized, so don't give in to frustration and give up. Remember back when you couldn't fret a single note without it buzzing. A breakthrough is always just around the next bend. Published with expressed permission - Guitar Tricks ________________________________________________ Kathy Dickson is a highly published and respected guitarists. She is a writer for Guitar Tricks and is from Pittsburgh. Guitar Tricks has the best and easiest method to learn to play guitar.
  5. ROLI's Seaboard Rise Keyboard A different kind of MIDI controller for a different kind of musician may lead to composing outside the box…and outside the studio. by Matthew Mann A different kind of MIDI controller for a different kind of musician may lead to composing outside the box…and outside the studio. Since Dave Smith and Roland went public with the MIDI specification back in 1983, MIDI controllers of various shapes, sizes, and interface types have been released to varying reactions from musicians and spectators alike. From the studio workhorse Yamaha KX88 - released in 1983 - to the Tenori-On in 2005 and the many guitar, wind, alternate and pad controllers (like the Launchpad Pro), MIDI controllers have graced stages and studios all over the world and have become a mainstay for all kinds of musicians. In 2009, a small company called ROLI announced a new take on the keyboard controller called the Seaboard Grand. Its silicon surface “keywaves” provided a new playing field in the MIDI controller arena. Instead of just note on and off like traditional keyboard controllers, these keywaves allowed the performer to use 5D touch to slide, tap, dig and wiggle their fingers over the Seaboard’s surface - controlling functions like vibrato, filter, resonance and more. The result was a much more expressive instrument than previously possible. Additionally, the Grand featured Equator – a custom-designed, onboard software synthesizer – that exploited the Grand’s multidimensional interface to create fantastically expressive sounds. However, at nearly $9,000 the Grand was, unfortunately, out of the financial reach of most musicians. In response, ROLI released the 25-key Seaboard Rise – a much less expensive keyboard controller without the onboard sound engine, but still including Equator as a computer-based virtual synth. Of course, it only had 25 keywaves, so for those wanting a full-fledged performance controller, it might not have been enough. At NAMM 2016, ROLI announced the release of the RISE 49, which expanded the original Seaboard RISE to 49 keys. Let’s take a look at what makes the Seaboard so special, and see how the RISE 49 could change the way keyboard players make music. Really. WHO HAS MY 5D GLASSES? First off, the Seaboard RISE 49 is definitely sexy! It features an all-black anodized aluminum body that’s very solid. I was surprised at the weight considering that it’s only 23mm thick. Of course while heavy, it weighs much less than my Roland Fantom G6…so, it’s still a win. The keywaves are dark gray and the whole thing begs to be touched. The Seaboard is a polyphonic multidimensional instrument. According to ROLI, the five dimensions of touch are: Strike – The velocity and force of your finger making contact with the keywaveSends MIDI note-on and velocity (0-127) messages Press – The continue pressure applied to the keywave after the initial strikeSends poly or channel pressure (aftertouch) Glide – Horizontal movements from side to side on a keywave, and along the ribbonsSends pitch bend Slide – Vertical movements up and down the keywaveSends MIDI CC 74 (brightness/cutoff frequency) Lift – The speed of liftoff from a keywaveSends note-off and release velocity (0-127) messages Each of the dimensions is assigned as listed above, but Glide and Lift can both be assigned freely to any parameters. The keywaves are of a unique design. Each keywave is a “peak” and between each peak is a “valley.” The valleys delineate one keywave from the next. The white keys are black; and what would be the black keys are black with a white stripe down the middle. The whole surface is squishy and allows you to dig in with your fingers. The surface is smooth and slick and allows your fingers to glide across the keywaves and the pitch strips above and below the keywaves. These pitch strips are similar to the ribbon controllers found on certain other synths and allow you to slide notes up or down into other notes using your fingers. It’s like a pitch bend wheel, but much more expressive and natural. In addition to the 5D touch of the keywaves, there are three backlit Touch Faders (Glide Touch, Slide Touch, Press Touch) that tailor the responsiveness of the keywaves. These work in real time, and create an even more expressive environment. You can adjust the depth of the generated sound through sideways movements on the keywaves (Glide Touch), movements up and down each keywave (Slide Touch), and pressure on the keywaves (Press Touch). Modifying these faders during performance completely transforms the sounds you can make on the Seaboard. There’s also a backlit X-Y pad so you can add more modulation possibilities to your performance. What’s cool here is that, not only can you use the 5D touch of the RISE, but there’s also a MIDI mode which transforms the three faders and X-Y pad into MIDI performance controls. You can assign each of them to any MIDI CC controllers to customize your experience. I found this mode especially useful with other virtual instruments, including the ones built into various DAWs. The RISE’s power button doubles as the Mode button and lights in a different color depending on the chosen mode. You might have noticed that the Seaboard RISE 49 has only 49 keywaves. I’ve never been a big fan of anything having less than 61 keys…so I never found myself buying a 25 or 49 key controller (other than my trusty Yamaha KX5 keytar). I think ROLI must have known there are dinosaurs (err…people) like me out there, because they included Octave +/- buttons on the front panel. Yay! On the Seaboard’s left side is an assignable ¼-inch pedal input. You’ll also find USB A and C connections for carrying power, MIDI data, and connecting to mobile devices. Finally, there’s a power adapter input. The RISE 49 does not come with an adapter. This is strictly for third party power adapters; however, it DOES operate on rechargeable batteries! The batteries last up to 8 hours on a charge and – here’s the best part – can be recharged from your computer. This was a nice surprise, but it does take about seven hours to get a full charge, so plan ahead if you opt not to buy an adapter. BEHIND THE DASHBOARD AND UNDER THE HOOD ROLI’s Dashboard for RISE is a software application that helps manage RISE settings, such as: Channel Mode: MPE (Multidimensional Polyphonic Expression) “On” or “Off,” Single, or Multi Channel Range: 1-10 for Multi-Channel Mode MIDI Channel: 1-16 for Single-Channel Mode Settings for five dimensions of touch: Strike, Press, Glide, Slide and Lift MIDI Mode Settings: Assignable MIDI CCs for Touch Faders and X-Y Touchpad Pedal Settings: Assignable MIDI CC Connection Status Indicator: USB or Bluetooth The Dashboard also allows you to download and send firmware and software updates to the Seaboard. Yes, I did say the Seaboard RISE 49 has Bluetooth…so you can connect to any computer or smartphone that features Bluetooth connectivity. And why would you want to connect to a smartphone with the Seaboard? ROLI released NOISE – a free app for the iPhone 6s that takes advantage of its 3D touch to give you a multidimensional synth you can carry in your pocket. It’s based on Equator and sounds fantastic! And because the Seaboard RISE 49 sends MIDI over Bluetooth, you can connect wirelessly and play NOISE from the Seaboard. NOISE also works with the iPhone 5 and 6, but it’s been optimized to work with the 6s. At the moment, NOISE supports only OSX…a sad thing indeed for Windows and Android users. Hopefully, ROLI will fix that soon. I also had luck connecting to a couple of other music-making apps on my iPhone 6, so there’s potential for much more portability and versatility from this combination. In addition to Dashboard, after registering on ROLI’s website you can receive Seaboard’s driver package, which includes Equator. This is a big download (2.5 GB), but is fairly quick and painless to install and comes in three flavors: OS X, 64-bit Windows, and 32-bit Windows. Equator is ROLI’s cross-platform, multidimensional, hybrid synth and sound engine specially designed for RISE. It takes full advantage of the RISE’s 5D touch surface and “unlocks the full expressive potential of the Seaboard,” says Roland Lamb – creator of the Seaboard and founder of ROLI. I can tell you that Equator is a beast of a synth that includes several forms of sound creation from wavetable oscillators to FM synthesis to sample playback. It sounds amazing – especially when paired with the Seaboard, because performance nuances translate so well to the sounds. I admit I was a bit giddy as I played through the presets for the first time…they sound incredible! My only complaint is that Equator is pretty heavy on the processor, so using it in your DAW will put some strain on your system. In recording with Equator, I often had to render tracks in Studio One 3 to maintain the DAW’s performance. Oh, and I almost forgot to mention there are Left/Right buttons on the RISE 49 that allow you to scroll up down through the Equator presets without having to touch your computer. This is a very nice addition that keeps you focused on what’s important…your performance. IN USE I must admit that using a Seaboard takes a little practice. Adjusting the sensitivity with the touch sliders becomes a necessity as you get used to the feel of the RISE. I thought I was just a lousy keyboard player, but I had my good friend, Angelo (www.angelorapan.com) try it out, too…and even he struggled with it at first. Once you get used to it, though, it’s really fun to play. Experimentation is the key to unlocking RISE’s potential and establishing your relationship with it. Yes, it’s a relationship. Once you get a feel for how it operates and how your movements translate through the keywaves and pitch strips, you get really close to the RISE very quickly. It’s sometimes tricky to make it do what you want in terms of slides and vibrato wiggles, but with practice these techniques are very satisfying. I do have one performance-related complaint. I said earlier that the Seaboard is sexy, and it is; however, the black keys are difficult to see on a dark stage. I found myself struggling to find my place on more than one occasion. I imagine once you know the RISE intimately, it’s probably easier to find your way around by feel. Until then, I have a little LED clip-on lamp that solves that issue for me. It would be nice if there was some way to light the keys, but I’m assuming it isn’t possible due to the nature and/or placement of the sensors in the keys. Anyway, it’s a minor complaint. The RISE garners lots of attention from people who want to know “what the heck” I’m playing and, of course when people see it, everyone wants to touch the keys. It’s fun to see their reactions, but it’s rough when you have only a couple of minutes to get a drink and take a bathroom break between sets. STAND AND DELIVER…A CASE One thing I recommend, whether you plan to use the Seaboard RISE outside the studio or not, is the Flip Case. This accessory encases the RISE’s body in a tough shell while leaving the ports open for connectivity. The lid of the case is foldable and, when open, makes a great stand for your mobile phone or even your laptop…or even for the RISE itself if you need a little more angle. This case isn’t an absolute necessity, but it’s certainly worth considering to protect your investment from dust and possible spills. They also come in different colors to attract attention to you and your RISE (as if it needed any help attracting attention). Pros: * Expressive surface lends itself to experimentation. * Rechargeable batteries and Bluetooth connection for on-the-go, wireless play. * Customizable control faders and XY pad for endless expressiveness. * Fun! Cons: * Black keys make it hard to see on a dark stage. * No Windows/Android version of NOISE app. Not sure if it’s a Pro or Con: Incredibly, extremely addictive! Resources: ROLI Seaboard RISE 49 $1199.99 www.roli.com Buy from: B & H Sweetwater Musician's Friend Guitar Center Amazon ________________________________________ Matthew Mann (Editor, Studio-One Expert) graduated Berklee College of Music with a Master Certificate, Music Production. Matt has been in bands and run studios for over a decade. He had a 3 year stint as a Sales Associate at GC Pro and has more recently been working in technical writing. As the picture shows, Matt rarely takes himself too seriously.
  6. Expanding Drum Kits with Percussion More than Cowbell! by Percussion Play and Koozai (adapted by Team HC) When you hear a great drummer play, it’s easy to forget that they’re actually playing multiple instruments at once. Bringing all those separate elements together into one whole is a pretty amazing feat. Expanding the palette of sounds beyond the usual suspects might seem a bit self-indulgent, but if it’s fun and it sounds good, nobody can tell you to stop (it never stopped Neil Peart!). So how can you build your tones without ending up with a kit the size of a spaceship? Wood Blocks Scoff all you like; the humble block is one of the coolest-sounding alternatives to the cowbell you’ll find. Cheap and cheerful, wood blocks project well and add a beautiful character to grooves, similar to playing the rim on snares and tom toms, but with a character all of their own. Plastic variants are available, too, with wackier shapes and tonal possibilities. You can mount them just about anywhere on your kit and they take up next to no space. It’s hard to think of a downside. You might as well take the plunge if you’re feeling experimental. Additional Hand Drums Bongos are like rhythmic honey. They encourage exploration of the feel of a groove with their sound alone and work great in funkier arrangements. They’re small and easy to mount around the kit for easy access. Employ a couple of floor-standing congas for Cuban-inspired rhythms or just to add a broader spectrum of sounds. They’re traditionally played with the hands, but bongos and congas can also be played with sticks for extra attack and volume. Just be careful not to beat them up too badly: the edges can be dented quite easily, damaging the skin and eventually the sound of the drum. You could switch to percussion mallets to prevent this, but this will change the character of the attack (that’s not necessarily a bad thing, just something to keep in mind). Improvised and DIY Instruments You can have some crazy creative fun when you make your own percussion instruments. Some people wince at the thought of not having a pristine, lovingly made and branded instrument, but if you’re prepared to open your mind you’ll be the exclusive owner of a one-off gem. That doesn’t mean you have to make anything, though. There’s enough so-called junk out there to make finding a new instrument one of the easiest things you can do: you’ve just got to know what to look for. , famed for his incredible outdoor street performances, uses a stand-mounted water cooler as a drum – check him out if you need inspiration to expand your moves too! Mallet Instruments Xylophone, marimba, vibraphone and chime instruments are bigger, heavier and trickier to place, but they offer an opportunity to explore melody and rhythmic tonality in really interesting, pleasing ways. If nothing else, it’ll keep your musical peers from making those “stupid drummer” jokes about how you’re just thumping things – well, if you’re lucky. It helps to have musical scale knowledge, or at least a sense of what you’re doing melodically. No, there’s no such thing as right and wrong, but if you’re playing with a group, you can’t really just mash in some glockenspiel and hope for the best: your fellow musicians probably won’t appreciate it. Play with the group, not against it. If you’re up to it, you can begin to paint extraordinary percussive notes over the top of your grooves. You’ll find it especially helpful in small ensembles, where a bit of added variety can go a long way. Hi-Hat Mounted Percussion Ah yes, the old tambourine on the hi-hat stand trick. So obvious, so clichéd – so what? One of the oldest tricks in the book is still one of the best. The hi-hat takes the role of master of meter and time, the expressive metronome that makes a groove sizzle and pop. Its absence is often more noticeable than its presence. It’s the unsung hero of the drum kit. Adorning the stand the hats sit on is an easy way to give it the praise and attention it deserves. Playing the hi-hat with your foot as a count suddenly becomes extra spicy with a tambourine mounted on top. Each motion you make on the hats becomes accentuated. It’s not always right – it brings a looser feel that won’t fit every piece of music you play – but when it is right, you’ll love what it does to your sound. The hi-hat stand offers more than just a place to drape a tambourine, though. Using clamps and booms, you can fit pretty much any small percussion instrument here comfortably. Oh, and cowbells go quite well here too, if you were wondering. But we’re not talking about those… Electronic Triggers Get ready to blow some minds with this one. Players like are bringing trigger pads into their regular arsenal of gear to add a previously impossible dimension to their sound. Sure, it’s not traditional percussion, but it can emulate those sounds (and so many more). If you want to keep your rig small but expand your sounds beyond anything you’ve ever imagined, this is the way to do it.There are some cons. For a start, it’s fiendishly expensive compared to traditional percussion, especially when you consider the need for amplification. Cheaper triggers can misfire. Storage and playback options can be limited too. And the limitless possibilities of zany sounds can leave you overwhelmed with choice. But if you’re desperate to get more creative, or even considering a solo project with your drums, there’s a galaxy of limitless potential open to you. ________________________________________ This article was brought to you with express written permission of Percussion Play, manufacturers of custom-built outdoor musical instruments for playgrounds, schools and public spaces all over the world.
  7. Ten Reasons Marching In Band Makes You A Better Person Perseverance in the face of adversity...and polyester by Ms. Kruse 1. You become a doer. While most of your other classes just involve listening or observing, band teaches you to do. You learn how to perform, how to be flexible, and how to communicate and cooperate with others across groups: Exactly what you need to succeed in any company or organization. 2. Your brain grows. Learning music helps develop the areas of the brain involved in language and reasoning, but it also teaches students how to think creatively and solve problems. Studies also show a link between music and spatial intelligence, which is vital for solving all types of things—from mathematics to how to efficiently pack up a moving van. It’s no wonder that students who study the arts are more successful on standardized tests and also achieve higher grades. 3. You develop self-esteem through self-expression. giphy.com Ah, expressing oneself in high school…So much black lipstick. So many chain wallets. No, learning music doesn’t mean you bypass all the crimes against fashion, but it does give you a more meaningful outlet to express yourself—through music. You can learn sad songs, you can learn ‘80s pop songs, you can play Phantom of the Opera tunes alone in your room ad nauseam. Self-expression builds self-esteem at a time in one’s life when you really need it. Entering adulthood with healthy self-esteem benefits you in every way possible and sets you up for future success. 4. You learn the value of community. Regardless of their dorky reputation, it’s obvious to high school creatures of every stripe that band kids are having more fun than you. The way they congregate in the halls….their wacky inside jokes…the ruckus of the band room just before class. Band kids STICK TOGETHER and definitely seem a little bit kinder than the other cliques. This closeness and sense of community may be the first kids experience outside of their families. It’s a powerful feeling that sets them up for building and being a part of other communities throughout the rest of their lives. 5. You appreciate music. Studying music isn’t just about learning how to play scales and memorize notes. It’s also a lesson in history, culture, and art movements that you wouldn’t otherwise receive from regular curriculum, or at least not this hands-on. Band turns kids into well-rounded adults who have a richer worldview, are more interesting to talk to at parties, and always have the best classical music playlists. 6. You learn how to be a part of something bigger than yourself. giphy.com There’s no “I” in “BAND”! Being a member of the band teaches you how to work within a group to achieve a higher goal. You learn the value of teamwork and how your contribution matters as much as everyone else’s. Not practicing just might let your section down. You must pull your own weight for the good of the group. Perfect training for the workplace, or being part of a family. 7. You’re more humble. Because marching band uniforms. Everyone from the hotties in percussion to the flute section ladies look like hell in that much polyester. This levels the playing field for teens during a very self-conscious time in their lives. 8. You learn how to work hard and persevere. Band directors don’t tolerate tomfoolery in the band room, nor will let you hide out and let the rest of your section cover up the fact that you never practice. You have to behave; you have to buckle down; and you have to practice to really learn the music. Band teaches you to stay focused despite distractions in order to achieve your goals. 9. You have stamina. giphy.com There’s something about marching in those uniforms that absolutely don’t breathe, while lugging a large piece of metal in the sweltering early September heat, that requires some serious stamina. It’s all about that sustained effort in the face of adversity. It ain’t easy, but hanging out after the game sure can be fun. Marching band proves that the rewards of hard work are undeniable, but only if you’ve got what it takes. 10. You’re no stranger to sacrifice. Back in band, you gave up basically every Friday night to play at sporting events. You sacrificed after school shenanigans to go practice or take private lessons. You gave up crucial locker space (and coolness points) to your giant instrument case. You gave up weekends to attend regional music competitions on the road. Band turns kids into adults who don’t balk at giving up small comforts for a larger prize. Marching Band members past and present: How have you grown from being in band? Share on Harmony Central. Reprinted with express written permission of the author and Retale Perspectives ________________________________________ Ms. Kruse is the senior creative content writer at Retale Perspectives and brings more than a decade of copywriting and journalism experience to the blog. Her primary curiosities include women in the workplace, technology, and cats in sweaters.
  8. Guitar Lesson - Play Like Prince Tribute to a Music Legend by Jonathan B. (adapted by Team HC) The world was stunned on the morning of Thursday, April 21st, 2016, when news broke that music legend Prince had died at the age of 57. Fans, celebrities, and fellow musicians took to Twitter to share their reactions, memories, and condolences. Shortly after, various tributes sprung up all over the internet, as the world mourned the music icon. One of the best ways to honor the late star is to share his (many) talents. Celebrate Prince and learn to play his famous guitar licks in this video from Jonathan B… ____________________________________________________ Video Lesson: Guitar - Play Like Prince _______________________________________________________________________ Want to see these guitar licks and techniques in action? Check out Prince’s Super Bowl XLI performance here! We’ll never forget Prince and his contributions to music and the world. What’s your favorite Prince song? What will you remember most about the legendary musician? Used with the express written permission of takelessons.com Special thanks to Take Lessons, Maile Proctor. Take Lessons to learn Guitar __________________________________ Author: Jonathan B. Jonathan B. is a guitar instructor, Temple University Music Theory graduate, and YouTube creator living in State College, PA. Learn more about Jonathan here! Photo by Sound Opinions
  9. Miroslav Philharmonik 2 Orchestral Sample Library With 58 GB and 2,700 instruments, it's big - but how does it sound? by Matthew A. Mann IK Multimedia have established themselves as purveyors of excellent guitar-based products like AmpliTube and their iRig interfaces. They’re also known for their T-Racks mixing/mastering plug-ins, and their outstanding ARC room correction software. They also make a range of quality virtual instruments, including the Miroslav Philharmonik orchestral collection. Several years ago, I saw a great deal on Miroslav Philharmonik CE (Classic Edition), a “lite” version of this instrument collection. I had been looking to add orchestral elements to some my compositions, but stock strings and brass in most DAWs never sounded very good to me. Well, the deal was too good to pass up, so I bought Philharmonik CE. It had quite a few instruments including sections (strings, brass, woodwinds) and individual solo instruments that sounded great compared to what I’d been using. My only real complaint was that the instruments were a little noisy, in the sense that you could hear hiss in the samples. For a collection based on Miroslav Vitous’ now famous sample library (previously costing thousands of dollars and only available for hardware samplers), this was surprising. I used it anyway, because the samples worked well with my rock/pop/electronic compositions and the noise couldn’t be heard in the mix. Enter the Philharmonik 2 With that said, I just picked up Miroslav Philharmonik 2, a complete rework of the collection. It comes in at a hefty 58GB and features over 2,700 instruments, including: • 868 strings • 349 brass • 393 woodwinds • 119 choirs • 774 percussion • 96 chromatic instruments • 8 grand pianos • 48 other classical instruments These instruments offers sections of instruments and different articulations of those sections, as well as solo instruments and multiple articulations. You get standard legatos, pizzicatos, spiccatos and staccatos… as well as many other useful articulations and dynamics…all sampled in beautiful detail. Each articulation is available from within the instrument itself (to keep the creative flow going) or as a stand-alone instrument. This new version also includes the original Philharmonik samples as well…and…they’ve been “enhanced.” I’m guessing “enhanced” means they got rid of the hiss that many people have complained about. It seems there are some performance enhancements as well. However the MP1 collection includes many instruments not found in MP2, so you'll enjoy plenty of variety if you have both. MP2 includes several new instruments including a concert grand piano, glockenspiel, orchestral chimes, harpsichord, marimba and vibraphone. They put lots of thought into these instruments when sampling them in order to create rich and varied tones. The marimbas, for example, were recorded with different types of mallets (hard/soft) so you have a number of different tonal options. The piano was meticulously sampled and sounds great, but they went a step further and modeled the soundboard in order to provide the options for achieving different tonal characteristics and sounds, like in a real piano. The result is an excellent piano that fits beautifully with the rest of the MP instruments. It seems to work well with pop and rock in most instances, too. MP2 also includes 30+ effects (5 EQs, 4 compressors, 7 filters/specialty processors, 9 modulation effects, 9 reverb/delay effects) from SampleTank 3. Additionally, MP2 includes their new ConvoRoom reverb so you can change the space your orchestra inhabits. This is a welcome added touch since it makes it easy to move the orchestra into different "rooms." Easy and powerful. Add to this the fact that all the instruments were recorded in the same space (the world famous CNSO Orchestra Studios in Prague), so they "gel" well. It also comes with 4 mastering-grade effects processors from T-RackS, so you can tailor the sound just the way you want before you ever leave the MP2 interface. It’s In The Tank Miroslav Philharmonik 2 is powered by the SampleTank 3 engine. This means you can perform, mix and edit…just like in SampleTank. The “Play” page gives you 16 parts for composition. Each part can contain one instrument with 5 insert effects per part. You can also assign the MIDI channel for each part, which makes layering possible by assigning the same MIDI channel to more than one part. You can also create splits and set key ranges for different parts, which makes for some interesting performance setups. 8 macro knobs provide quick access to the most common instrument parameters like expression, attack, release, cutoff and EQ. It was pretty easy to assign these macro knobs to my keyboard controller for ease of use. I was especially impressed with the number of parameters offered by the “Edit” page. There are several different filters, pitch-shifting and time stretching, resampling, velocity scaling, an LFO with 5 different oscillator types, and AHDSR envelope editing. It’s ridiculous the things you can do with the controls on this page. If you really needed to, you could turn an orchestra instrument into, say, a synth bass or synth lead sound with just a little experimentation. Try that with your typical orchestral sample library! The “Mix” window is where, as you might have guessed, the mixing is done. It features 16 part channels, 4 return channels for overall effects processing, and a master channel for your final master bus processing. Each part channel features pan, solo, mute and volume controls. They also include the previously mentioned insert slots (5) and returns (4). This was fun to play around with, but I typically prefer to use my DAW's own processing plug-ins. Still, their inclusion is a bonus. In The Orchestra Pit So what does all of this mean? It means that IK have released an orchestral collection that’s fun to play and sounds great. Running it and opening the first instrument was a treat. I’m not an orchestral composer, but I found myself inspired to attempt some orchestration for my own personal enjoyment. I’ll leave the heavy-duty composing to Mr. Zimmer and Mr. Elfman, but it was still lots of fun! My only real complaint about Miroslav Philharmonik 2 was the pain involved in downloading it. There are 16 download packages in the full version. Each part is about 4.2GB uncompressed. I have a fairly fast connection, but the downloads kept timing out and it ultimately took me several days to download all 16 parts. On the flip side, each packet installs separately, so you can begin playing the instruments from the very first download. Kudos to IK on the forethought there. Oh, and did I mention it’s fun to play? The keyswitching works well and lets you, for example, go from a nice legato string section to a pizzicato without missing a beat. The instruments are as realistic as I’ve ever heard, and respond well to typical MIDI controllers when you want to wring loads of emotion out of their tones. The Bottom Line Miroslav Philharmonik 2 plays on a field with several big players. Spitfire Audio, Vienna Instruments, and EastWest are just a few of the “big boys” for cinematic orchestration. Even Native Instruments has joined the game with their Emotive Strings, Session Strings and Session Brass libraries (all separate packages). MP2 can easily evoke images of epic movies on the silver screen and can do this at a fraction of the cost ($399) of some of the others…and to my ears, they sit comfortably between Albion (Spitfire) and Symphonic Orchestra (EastWest) for playability and sound quality. It also sounds great when used in popular music. So, if you’re looking to put an orchestral sample library in your hands without killing your wallet, I’d suggest you seriously consider Miroslav Philharmonik 2. I think you’ll be glad you did. I know I am. But wait - there’s more! As of this writing, IK Multimedia announced the addition of a new instrument to be included with MP2 (and free to registered owners of MP2 who don’t have it yet) - a Concert Harp. This 3GB instrument is stereo, going from left to right up the strings. It can be played plucked or glissando and includes 4 glissando instruments and different playing styles. This is a stellar addition to the MP2 collection, and being free is certainly a plus! Resources IK Multimedia Miroslav Philharmonik 2 Orchestral Sample Library ($499.99 MSRP, $399.99-$499.99 "street" for the downloadable version, $529.99 "street" for the boxed version with USB drive) IK Multimedia's product web page You can purchase IK Multimedia's Miroslav Philharmonik 2 Orchestral Sample Library from: Sweetwater (downloadable version / boxed version with USB drive) B&H Photo Video (downloadable version) Musician's Friend (download version) Guitar Center (downloadable version) ________________________________________ Matthew Mann (Editor, Studio-One Expert) graduated Berklee College of Music with a Master Certificate, Music Production. Matt has been in bands and run studios for over a decade. He had a 3 year stint as a Sales Associate at GC Pro and has more recently been working in technical writing. As the picture shows, Matt rarely takes himself too seriously.
  10. The Best Phaser Pedal: A Replete Buying Guide by Bobby Kittleberger (adapted by TEAM HC) The best phaser pedal, if you go by popularity, might be the MXR Phase 90. If you agree, then I’ve just confirmed your preference and saved you some time. Otherwise, here’s a complete list of what we’ll recommend and review: Best Phaser Pedal List Boss PH -3 Phase Shifter MXR Phase 90 Red Witch Analog Deluxe Moon Phaser DigiTech SP-7 Stereo Phaser Empress Effects Phaser DOD Phasor 201 MXR Phase 100 Ibanez Tone-Lok PH7 Keeley Phase 24 TC Electronic Helix Phaser We’ve chosen these phaser pedals because of reputation, features, and sound quality (without regard to price). Because there are fewer phasers on the market, price is less of a concern and not our focus. Whether or not it’s wise to go with one of the more expensive options, truly depends on your situation and playing style; we’ll talk more about that later. But before we get there, I’ll go techie about what the phaser effect actually is and what makes one good or bad. What is a phaser pedal? A phaser, in its most basic form, is an electronic sound processor, or a filter, which takes an input (your guitar) and outputs a “wet” signal that’s characterized by a waveform made up of peaks and troughs. If you go to the Wikipedia page, the image they use (the blue one) is typically how the waveform is represented. Further, you can hear the ebb and flow of the effect when you listen to it, thus the peaks and troughs descriptor becomes obvious. Here’s how it works. How a phaser pedal actually works - First, you play something on your guitar - perhaps, something “phaser-friendly.” The intro riff for “The Warmth” by Incubus will do nicely: …go numb, but there’s a cold wind coming from… Upon entering the pedal the signal splits into two parts: The first is treated with an all-pass filter or a “stage.” The other is left “dry” or unchanged The original signal (from your guitar) gets divided into two parts. For the signal that flows into the all-pass filter, there can be any number of stages, as shown in the following diagram: The all-pass filter diagram for phasers, showing number of stages. At the end of the signal, where the two paths are rejoined, the frequencies that are out of phase (created by the all-pass filters) meet with the in-phase signal, which creates the effect output. By changing the mix, or the ratio of in-phase signal to out-of-phase signal, you can alter the effect's intensity. Speed or “rate” is the primary control involved with any phaser pedal, which you might notice is the only control on the Phase 90: A lonely speed knob on the MXR Phase 90. | Flickr Commons Image courtesy of Roadside Guitars In fact, it’s not uncommon for phaser pedals to be limited to a speed knob and nothing else. This doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a low-quality pedal; other controls might include a level, wet/dry mix, or a depth knob. These are common characteristics of other modulation effects as well. What about the number of filters? The number of all-pass filters in a phaser circuit will vary widely. In analog phaser pedals, you’ll typically have less than eight, while digital versions can simulate a much larger number of stages. The correlation between the sound of the phaser and these stages can be mathematically defined as n/2, where n is equal to the number of stages in a circuit. This means that a phaser pedal with eight stages would pass through the circuit once and produce four troughs. Digital phasers will often allow you to dial in the simulated number of stages via a control knob, like the Boss Phase Shifter: Digital phaser pedals like the Boss PH-3 often allow you to dial in a simulated number of stages. Does the “analog is better than digital” rule still apply? In a word (and in my opinion), no. The “analog is better” rule applies to many guitar pedals, particularly delay because of the authenticity associated with the early tape delays. Phaser pedals are a bit different because the effect is more often associated with the digitized music era. Furthermore, digital phaser pedals will usually offer more customization options, while analog phasers are often limited to just a speed or rate knob. Take the EHX Phase Shifter, for example: The EHX Small Stone phaser pedal with a rate knob and color switch. It’s a decent-sounding pedal but has only one control option aside from the color switch. That’s not to say there aren’t analog phaser pedals out there that give you more control (we’ll cover several), but they’re not the norm, and are often more expensive than their digital counterparts. In total, I’d offer four general reasons for tolerating, or even preferring, digital phasers: More control options Sound quality is comparable to analog (in most cases) Popular in the “digital age” Often have tempo (tap) control options (like the PH-3) How much should I spend for a good phaser pedal? Like I said, we’re not discriminating against phaser pedals based on price. However, your specific situation and musical leanings should inform and determine what kind of phaser pedal you buy. Let’s give our dilemma some context. The PH-3 is usually around $100, while some of the other boutique and analog phasers go up to $200 and above. Because the phaser pedal is such a common and standardized effect, those who would consider themselves “casual” users should avoid going too much over the $100 mark. I suppose you could be “phaser pedal poor.” | Flickr Commons Image via Fritz Ahlefeldt On the other hand, someone who expects to use the phaser pedal a lot, making it an integral part of their sound, would be justified in spending $200 and beyond. However for most musicians, a phaser will be useful only in certain situations. While it’s a great effect to own, it’s not worth over-spending if you aren’t planning on using it a lot. Let’s jump in with some of the obvious choices first: 1. Boss PH-3 Phase Shifter: $105 We’ve already covered a lot about the PH-3, the most notable being its ability to simulate different stages. Here’s a full list of control options: Rate Depth Res (resonance) Stage Selector (with additional FALL, RISE and STEP modes) Expression pedal support Tempo setting ability The RISE and FALL modes create a type of uni-directional phase effect, where you hear the sound going up over and over again or down over and over again, instead of the traditional sweeping pattern. Here are a few settings from the PH-3’s manual: Settings and suggestions for the Boss PH-3 from Roland’s official Boss effects guidebook. | Image via Roland You can set the tempo via the tap functionality or use an expression pedal for real-time control of the unit’s speed. Here’s a list of additional, compatible devices: AC Adapter (PSA Series) $24 Expression Pedal (Roland EV-5) $67 Footswitch (FS-5U) $29 Like most Boss pedals, this one comes with a five-year warranty and weighs less than a pound. It’s also compatible with bass guitars. The Boss PH-3 picks up the “Great for Bass” tag. | Image via Roland This is the go-to phaser pedal. The sound quality is exceptional and they give you the equivalent of a phaser Swiss army knife, all for $105 in a little green box. Further, it’s an updated version of the Boss Super Phaser (PH-2), which Mike Einziger owns two of. Need I say more? Mike Einziger loves Boss phaser pedals enough to buy two of each. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Stage Simulation / Expression Pedal Support / Tap Tempo ____________________________________________________________________________________ 2. MRX Phase 90: $80 MXR was founded in 1972 and furnished the Phase 90 shortly thereafter in 1974. The trademark is now owned by Jim Dunlop. Since buying the rights to MXR’s brand, Dunlop has released three different versions of the Phase 90: Original “script logo” version Block logo (primary) version with 9V adapter option and LED indicator EVH (Eddie Van Halen) signature model When MXR originally produced the pedal, there was no LED indicator or power option - you had to use a battery. Maybe that’s why they went bankrupt before being bought by Dunlop; it’s got to be tough to sell pedals without those features. The Current MXR Phase 90 Today’s version of the pedal is still fairly basic, with only a speed knob and the engage button. Here’s a quick look from the owner’s manual: Sample settings for one knob? | Image via Jim Dunlop I can’t help but find it a bit comical that they include a list of sample settings where the last one is labeled YOUR SETTING with a blank white circle. So yes, it’s simple, but the analog circuits give off a warmth and richness to the tone which has been used on a number of recordings over the years. Some of the most notable artists include the following: Eddie Van Halen (of course) Jerry Cantrell Slash (Saul Hudson) At one point, Slash used the script version (a Jim Dunlop reissue) of the Phase 90, which can be seen on his board via the guitar.com rig diagram: A shot of Slash’s pedalboard back in 2011. | Image via Guitar.com In Moshcam’s interview of Ace (Slash’s guitar tech) that Slash uses the effect only in a few situations. Ace showing us Slash’s pedalboard and the MXR Phase 90. It also looks as though Slash has abandoned the script logo reissue in favor of the generic “block” logo version. What does it sound like? Jim Dunlop’s “formal” demo video is fantastic, and does a great job of presenting and exploring the pedal’s sound and tonal spectrum. You can really hear the warmth in the peaks and troughs. There’s also a clear and distinct “swooshing” sound that you can hear through the thickness of the effect. It’s a basic modulation tone, but it’s done right and at $70, it’s easily one of your best and most straightforward choices. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Speed Knob / Analog Circuitry ____________________________________________________________________________________ 3. Red Witch Analog Deluxe Moon Phaser: $230 While it’s pricey, the Moon Phaser from Red Witch does give you some added control to an analog phaser pedal by mixing a typical phase effect with a type of tremolo. Allow me to decrypt the oddly-named control knobs: Velocity (phase speed) Trajectory (depth or wave form shape) Cosmology (six-way switch - three different phasers, two tremophase modes and one for just tremolo) So a more accurate way to describe this pedal would be a two-in-one phaser and tremolo pedal, which the is calling “tremophase.”If you go to the Moon Phaser’s home page, you can actually control the pedal knobs and sample all the sounds. You can demo all the pedal’s functionality on the Red Witch website. | Image via Red Witch Other Features The pedal supports stereo use with a second output and gifts you with a true bypass circuit, which you’d expect at the high price tag. But should I spend this much? There are some features here that you don’t get elsewhere. If they’re high on your list of “must-haves” they might make the $230 worth it. Here’s what should really matter to you when it comes to this pedal: 1: True bypass Many phaser pedals don’t come with true bypass, which is a hallmark of most boutique guitar pedals. If this is high on your priority list, the Moon Phaser is one of just a few options that will satisfy. 2: Analog with more control Again, I can’t tell a significant difference between the analog and digital phasers. If you can, and you want the added control, it might be Moon Phaser or bust. 3: The tremolo add-in The tremolo add-in is a part of the cost increase, simply because Red Witch can market it as a two-in-one unit. If that aspect doesn’t interest you, the high price tag starts to look especially gloomy. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Tremolo add-in / Analog Circuitry / True bypass ____________________________________________________________________________________ 4. DigiTech SP-7 Stereo Phaser: $230 The setup here is similar to that of the PH-3: a digital phaser with three controls and a total of seven phaser types. The controls are: Speed Depth Modify The depth knob is essentially a wet control, allowing you to adjust the mix between the effect and clean signal. The Modify knob has different functionalities depending on what phaser type you’ve selected. Here’s a shot of the modify knob controls for each one, per the user manual: Knob functionality chart for the DigiTech SP-7. | Image via DigiTech Those types include the following: 2 Stage and 4 Stage 10 Stage Modern Boutique Envelope Dynamic Number 1: 2 Stage and 4 Stage The 2 Stage setting is really subtle, more ideal for faint melody and rhythm playing than anything else. In fact, there’s little motion in either the 2 or 4 Stage setting. They both sound vintage and subtle. Number 2: Modern The modern knob is basically the 4 Stage type with more defined sweeps, similar to what you hear on a lot of Incubus tracks. Number 3: Boutique This mode is a vintage mimic, similar to the Phase 90. Cuts and sweeps are more intense, though can still be mellowed out by the rate knob and feedback control. Number 4: 10 Stage Ten Stage is a heavy phaser effect with deep sweeps. More depth means that the feedback from the Modify knob becomes a lot more pronounced. Turning the Modify knob up almost give it a tremolo-like quality. Number 5: Envelope Envelope adds a sweep effect over what sounds like a wah pedal locked in the middle position. The Modify knob controls the sensitivity of the sweeps. Number 6: Dynamic This mode is similar to the 10 Stage sound, though in this case you have control over the sensitivity. To my ear, the difference wasn’t terribly significant, especially during routine, melodic picking patterns. The sensitivity control shows through a bit more on rhythmic strumming patterns. Other Features DigiTech throws in true bypass and stereo outputs to sweeten the deal. If it’s between this and the PH-3, I’d say go with the PH-3 for a few bucks less unless you’re really crazy about a few extra modes you get with the SP-7. Here’s a full list technical specs, including battery life and I/O summary, straight from DigiTech’s website: InputSeparate Left and Right ¼” Unbalanced (Tip-Sleeve) Input Impedance 1 MOhms (stereo), 500 kOhms (mono) -- Effect on Output Separate Left and Right ¼” Unbalanced (Tip-Sleeve) Output Impedance 1 kOhm -- effect on Controls Speed, Depth, Modify, and Effect Type knobs Switches On/Off foot switch Power Supply 9 VDC, 630mW consumption, 70mA draw Battery Type Single 9 VDC Battery Life 5.25 hours Power Supply 120 VAC, 60 Hz Adapter: PS200R - 120 (US and Canada) Power Supply 100 VAC, 50/60 Hz Adapter: PS200R - 100 (Japan) Power Supply 230 VAC, 50 Hz Adapter: PS200R - 230 (Europe) Power Supply 240 VAC, 50 Hz Adapter: PS200R - 240 (UK) Dimensions 3.5″ Width x 5.5″ Length x 2.25″ Height Unit Weight 1.3 lbs ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Seven different phaser modes / Analog circuitry / True bypass ____________________________________________________________________________________ 5. Empress Effects Phaser: $350 Before we get into the gory details of all the different sounds this pedal is capable of, let’s take a look at the highlight reel. Our favorite features include: All-analog circuitry that’s controlled by a digital microprocessor (best of both worlds) Expression, MIDI, and external audio controllable Eight selectable waveforms Tap tempo It is one of the most expensive phaser pedals I’ve seen at $350. Power Input Voltage 9 - 18 V DC (Negative tip) Power Input Connector 2.1 mm barrel connector (Negative tip) Power Consumption ~120 mA Enclosure Material Die Cast Aluminum Input connector 1/4″ Jack Output connector 1/4″ Jack However, I'd conclude that the price is justified when you consider its capabilities. The biggest selling point would have to be the analog circuit that’s digitally controlled, which makes room for all the control, unique tones, and tap tempo inclusion. This is also one of the few phaser pedals where I could really hear the analog circuits making a big difference. It just sounds better, more warm and sleek than the others on this list. The Eight Waveforms If you look on the front of the pedal (right beneath the bypass and tap switches), you can see details on all eight waveforms: Detail of the waveforms and modes for the Empress phaser. | Image via Empress Effects You get a predictable blend control for adjusting the overall wet/dry mix of whatever effect you’re using, a stage selector (2, 3 or 4 stages), and a gain knob. The Mode Switch If you look at the top, right-hand side of the pedal, you’ll see a mode switch with three options: The mode switch options on the Empress phaser. | Image via Empress Effects Tap Knob (speed/ratio) Auto The Tap and Knob options (predictably) allow you to control the tempo of the pedal by using either the tap button or the speed knob, which is also pictured above. Auto mode reacts to your picking pattern, which is one of the unique ways to use this pedal. Whenever you pick a note, the phase peak will run until you hit the string again at which point it will drop down and then start back over. It’s like an Auto Wah, expect with a phaser swirl. There’s an additional switch to control resonance with the following options: Little None Lots Empress even throws in a convenient control for setting the functionality of an expression pedal, should you choose to use one. Square Wave Mode While the tonal scope of this pedal is far too wide to address here (check the Empress homepage for demos and sound clips), I do want to mention the square wave mode. Square wave mode can be selected by turning the waveform knob to either the seventh or eighth spot. The square waveforms on the Empress phaser are numbers seven and eight on the waveform knob. | Image via Empress Effects This causes the phase sweep to go into a hard stop before beginning again, thus you get a square wave shape instead of the typical series of parabolas. The result is an almost delay-like phaser sound that can be controlled by the tap tempo. You can hear it at about 5:45 of the .They aptly describe it as a “percussive” sound, due to its rhythmic and delay-like quality. While there are plenty of more conventional sounds to be sampled here, I liked the square waveform because it’s a unique, yet useful mode that you wouldn’t expect to find in a phaser pedal. I’m also a bit of a delay junkie. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Eight waveforms / Tons of control / True bypass / Knob, tap or auto mode ____________________________________________________________________________________ 6. DOD Phasor 201 Analog: $50 I’ve always appreciated the old DOD pedals, like the envelope filter and EQ boxes they used to make. The Phasor 201 is a newer generation model from DOD (now a DigiTech-affiliated brand) and a handsome alternative to the more expensive options on this list. It’s similar to the Phase 90 in setup. Dimensions 4.68” x 2.63”x 2.25” (L x W x H) Weight ~0.62 lbs. / 0.281 kgs. Input (1) ¼” Instrument Input/Impedance 470k Ohm Output (1) ¼” Instrument Chassis All Metal Power Supply 9V Alkaline Dry Battery; PS0913DC power supply Analog circuitry and the lone speed knob make an appearance here, but for $30 less than the MXR Phase 90. In , Matt Calder makes the observation that the pedal is highly usable at all speed points, which I would agree with. Even with the knob cranked or dropped all the way down, the phaser effect produced is warm and doesn’t sound too hectic or overtly warbled. It’s a simple, low-cost solution, perhaps ideal for someone who uses a phaser sparingly or only in a few spots of a set list. DOD throws in true bypass as a nice bonus. The 201 or the Phase 90? To be honest, I can’t tell a bit of difference between the two in terms of sound quality. They’re both analog with one speed control, so technically-speaking there should not be a lot of discrepancy. It’s possible that DOD is just willing to take a smaller profit margin than MXR, which would make sense, considering MXR’s long-standing popularity and the success of the Phase 90. My bet is that it’s like the generic brand of acetaminophen compared to Tylenol; they both accomplish the exact same thing with the same level of effectiveness. Yet, one costs less. If you want a low-cost, basic phaser to use here and there, the 201 will do just fine and you’ll save $30. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Speed knob / Analog / True bypass ____________________________________________________________________________________ 7. MXR M-107 Phase 100: $120 The “big brother” of the Phase 90 also happens to be far less popular. It’s intended to make up for the lack of control the Phase 90 offers, which is done by adding an intensity knob next to the familiar speed control. The intensity knob is a four-position rotary switch, allowing you to select four different waveforms. Here are a few sample settings from the manual: Setting recommendations from the Phase 100 manual. | Image via Jim Dunlop Notice there’s no empty white circle for “your setting.” Good move, Dunlop. The circles you see on the pedal itself represent the depth of modulation, while the arrow represents the width of sweep frequency: Circles equal depth and arrows equal width. | Image via Jim Dunlop The amount of flexibility this creates is surprisingly broad. You can go from deep warbling effects to smooth peaks and cuts, none of which can be as clearly defined in the Phase 90. The thicker circles can almost give off a vibrato effect if you turn the speed up, similar to what you can achieve on the Empress and Red Witch phasers. This or the Phase 90? The Phase 100 is middle ground between the Phase 90/DOD 201 and the Empress/Red Witch boutique phasers. If you’re happy with a speed knob and don’t envy the more advanced controls, don’t bother with the Phase 100. On the other hand, if you like the detail and flexibility of the more expensive phaser pedals but don’t want to unload $200 or $300, the Phase 100 could be a nice compromise at $120. A Couple FYIs From what I can tell, the Phase 100 is not true bypass and is run off digital processors instead of analog circuits. I wasn’t able to find any information one way or the other. No true bypass No analog circuit (all digital) What that usually means is that they’ve gone with the less popular of each variable, non-true bypass and digital signal processing. While these aren’t deal-breakers (at least not for me) they might be a disappointment, especially when all you really get (compared to the Phase 90) is the four intensity knob modes. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Intensity selector / Speed knob ____________________________________________________________________________________ 8. Ibanez Tone-Lok PH7: $70 The main problem I have reviewing these Ibanez pedals is that Ibanez no longer makes the Ton Lok series. In fact, they’ve been off the formal market for a long time, having survived on used sales. That said, though, you can still get your hands on them easily via Amazon, eBay, Reverb or even Musician's Friend in some cases. Let’s start with the basics first. For controls, you have the following four knobs: Speed Depth Feedback Level There's also a mode switch simply marked “1 and 2.” Without being able to consult a manual, the difference between these two modes seems to be one of effect depth or thickness, where mode two is just a much heavier phaser, almost like an added wet/dry mix knob or an additional stage. In the first mode, most of the controls have a more subtle impact and don’t change the signal drastically from one extreme to the other. You can dial in the typical classic phase or the warbling effects, depending on how you’ve set the speed and depth. The Locking Controls The most popular trademark of the Ton Lok pedal series is what they’re named after. If you press down any of the control knobs, they actually drop into the pedal and lock into place, meaning you can set your dials and then keep them from getting bumped or moved. The PH7 knobs locked into position. | Image via Skifmusic.ru While I like these pedals for the price (they’ve always been decently affordable) the knob-lock feature has always seemed a bit gimmicky to me. Perhaps the knobs on my other pedals just don’t change on their own. Is that a real problem? I guess it depends on who you ask. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Locking controls / Two phaser modes ____________________________________________________________________________________ 9. Keeley Phase 24: $180 From Robert Keeley himself: “The Keeley phaser is for players that like delicate nuances.” The Phase 24 is a boutique-style analog pedal that uses two JFET transistors to create two and four-stage phasing. Keeley is able to market the pedal as a “nuanced” phaser, primarily because of how subtle it is in the two-stage mode. It’s meant to steer away from the heaviness that often comes with modulation effects and replace it with a more airy and ambient tone. The guts of the Keeley Phase 24, exposing the dual FET transistors. | Image via Keeley You have three ways to adjust the pedal: The stage switch (2-stage or 4-stage selector) Depth control Rate control The depth control knob is a bit deceptively named, since it controls the pedal's wet/dry mix. Hiking the rate knob, particularly in the 4-stage mode, is reminiscent of the Phase 90, in as much as it provides a lot more warmth and definition. The Phase 24 picture on Robert Keeley’s website. | Image via Keeley Using the two-stage mode with the two knobs at 12 o’clock definitely embellishes the “nuanced” aspect of this pedal as it can, at times, be difficult to discern whether you’re hearing the phaser effect at all. Personally, I find this to be a fantastic feature. A lot of times my clean tone just needs something and I find myself falling back on a digital phase effect to add some thickness. And while not all other phasers are “over-saturated,” it’s nice to see one that’s made specifically for people who want to use a phaser in this manner. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: 2 and 4 Stage Phaser / Analog / True Bypass ____________________________________________________________________________________ 10: TC Electronic Helix Phaser: $120 While the Helix is capable of subtlety, it’s a far more dynamic phaser than the Keeley offering. There are no stages listed, but you do have three modes to choose from: Vintage TonePrint Smooth Vintage mode is the most nuanced, which reminds me of the analog sounds of the Phase 90 and the Keeley 24. Bumping up the mix and feedback knobs creates a deeper and more intense effect. The feedback knob in particular is more sensitive than what you typically see on other phaser pedals. TonePrint mode allows you to control the pedal from the TonePrint app or engage the settings that you have stored to the pedal (more on that below). Smooth was my personal favorite. In this third mode, the depth you get from each peak almost has a flanger-like quality, which can be heard even with the knob at a lower depth setting. This is gives the Helix a unique phaser tone, before you even get to the Tone Print shaping features. TonePrint Enabled TonePrint is an interface built by TC Electronic that allows you to manipulate the tone and settings of your pedal from a computer program that’s PC, Mac and iOS compatible. The main selling point of TonePrint is input from a number of popular guitar players, allowing you to use “their” tones. Among them are John Petrucci, Paul Gilbert, and Devin Townsend. While the idea isn’t bad, the outcome gives off more of a marketing scent than any kind of practical usefulness. The TonePrint interface allows you to connect your pedal via USB to a tone-shaping application. | Image via TC Electronic Plus, I think there is such a thing as too many options. TonePrint is another level of control over your settings which allows you to, in a sense, control what the knobs on your pedal actually do. Here’s a lengthy video of the interface if you want to checkout the details: It’s unique, for sure. Yet, I haven’t ever felt like I needed more control over a phaser pedal with four knobs and three different modes. So, I wouldn’t rate the value of this pedal based on TonePrint. I’d be more interested in it with a delay or distortion pedal. On the phaser, it’s a cool feature, but one that I think most players would be unlikely to use all that often. Since the Helix pedal itself is so good, the TonePrint additive is a moot point. A couple other features worth noting are true bypass and stereo I/O. ____________________________________________________________________________________ FEATURES: Unique and usable tone / TonePrint enables / True bypass ____________________________________________________________________________________ Bands and guitar players that use these phaser pedals At some point the phaser went from being an Eddie Van Halen classic sound, to a favorite of guys like Einziger and Marcos Curiel. There’s nothing “vintage” about those dudes. Today, the effect is most often used as a way to decorate short guitar fills and melody lines. And while you may hear the sound on an album, it doesn’t always mean that the guitarist goes around with a phaser on their pedalboard. In many cases, a phaser effect will be added in production. But, for pedalboard inspiration, here are a few guys that keep (or used to keep) a phaser with plenty of velcro: Deftones’ Stephen Carpenter Stephen Carpenter drops an MXR EVH Phase 90 near the end of a complex pedal circuit: Part of Stephen Carpenter’s pedalboard from 2011. | Image via Guitar.com Carpenter eventually switched out his entire pedalboard for a patch system, which you can see in Premier Guitar’s rig rundown: Stephen Carpenter’s patch system that replaced the full, analog pedalboard. | Image via Premier Guitar So he no longer travels with a full complement of pedals like you see in the diagram, favoring instead to have everything patched in. Radiohead’s Jonny Greenwood Back in 1997, near Radiohead’s heyday, guitarist Jonny Greenwood ran an EHX Small Stone analog phaser pedal at the front of a second pedalboard. Jonny Greenwood’s second pedalboard back in 1997. | Image via Guitar.com The many Radiohead sounds come from a variety of sources, though Jonny’s guitars and gear have remained relatively unchanged through the years. In the diagram, the Small Stone phaser is the first stop for his guitar’s signal. Foo Fighters’ Dave Grohl Back in 2000, Dave Grohl used an MXR Phase 90 on a simple pedalboard which went straight into an amp selector. A look at Dave Grohl’s fairly simple pedalboard from 2000. | Image via Guitar.com Not much has changed as you can still spot his phaser, old Boss delay, and Whirlwind A/B selector. Grohl’s board has remained relatively unchanged over the years. | Image via PMTOnline He’s not known for heavy effects use or for making many changes to his rig. Perhaps he’s learned from the guy he used to play drums for. Where to place a phaser pedal in your effects chain Let’s chat about phaser pedal placement: Before we look at conventions, we should first understand that there are no “rules” when it comes to your effects chain. There are best practices and good advice (which I’ll give you), but there’s never a set-in-stone method. Now, our conventional wisdom: The phaser, which is classified as a modulation effect, is typically placed near the back of effects pedal chains, close to the amplifier. In this example from Boss, the Flanger serves as the de facto modulation box, representing phasers and chorus pedals as well: Boss places modulation effects (phasers) near the back of the chain, but before delay. | Image via BossUS Personally, I would move the Compressor, EQ ,and Noise Suppressor to the back of the line, with a chain that looks like this: AMP / Noise / EQ / Comp. / Delay / Modulation / Distortion / Wah / GUITAR This of course assumes a typical guitar - pedal - amp rig diagram and doesn’t take into account the possibility of a rack-mounted processor, dual signal chains, and effects loops. The phaser effect (and modulation in general) is subtle enough to fit anywhere on your board. Keep it behind the distortion and wah. Otherwise, I wouldn’t worry. Phaser Pedal Settings and Best Practices We’ve already seen a few settings examples from the manuals. I’d like to post a few more ideas to help establish some phaser pedal settings conventions and best practices. Let’s start by revisiting the MXR Phase 90: On most of the analog phasers we can simply cut speed back for a more classic vibe. I would add that low speed settings are also good for a subtle covering over just about any melodic run. Here’s another look at the settings we listed earlier for the Boss Phase Shifter: Vintage settings here show a low stage count (4) and a high depth knob with a variable (to taste) rate settings. I’d still advise keeping the rate low, since the faster speeds tend to sound overtly chaotic on most phasers. Let’s look at the quick-start settings for the Empress phaser: Quick start settings for the Empress phaser. | Image via Empress Effects You might call these the “garden-variety” settings for the Empress phaser. It’s going to be a classic-style phase, with speed and width both moved past 12 o’clock. Here’s a shot of the sample settings for the Phase 100 from MXR: The Phase 100 gives us a variety of ways to utilize speed at low, medium, and high settings. As always, phaser pedal settings are a matter of taste. However, these can give you some places to start and help direct you towards helpful conventions. Phase Pedal Use: Considerations before you buy In a lot of situations, your use for a phaser will be limited unless you just really like the phaser sound. As I’ve explained, a lot of modern guitar players use it as a subtle additive, particularly when the note-count of a lick is low. Having an effect makes simpler melodies seem more full and interesting. Otherwise, it’s not an effect that you’ll likely use for long stretches. Before you decide how much money you want to spend, it would be wise to think about how and when you might actually use a phaser. If it’s the typical "here and there," you’re better off not spending too much - go with one of the phaser pedals under (or near) $100. If you plan to use it all the time, a heftier investment like the Empress or Red Witch offering might be in the cards. Just plan ahead so you don’t end up with a $300 investment that, for the most part, collects dust on your pedalboard. Your Thoughts Do you have thoughts about our best phaser pedal list? How about inclusions or exclusions? Let us know what you think about it in this thread at Harmony Central Could you use more gear help? Producing “great tone” is a worthy pursuit, but not always an obvious one. We all own a unique collection of gear that seems to sound different all the time. That’s normal, but still something we need to learn to deal with. We need to learn our gear. If you want to access some resources that will help dealing with a specific tonal pursuit, piece of gear or other questions related to your rig, I’d recommend giving Guitar Tricks 14-day free trial a test run - there’s no obligation and you have nothing to lose - except two free weeks of one of the most comprehensive and thorough guitar education websites in existence. For a full rundown of the membership benefits and plenty of screenshots, checkout Guitar Chalk's Guitar Tricks review. Resources Jim Dunlop. Jim Dunlop USA. Web. 22 Mar. 2016. <http://www.jimdunlop.com/files/manuals/M101_man_WEB.pdf>. “MXR.” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 22 Mar. 2016. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MXR>. “MXR Phase 90.” Wikipedia. Wikimedia Foundation, n.d. Web. 22 Mar. 2016. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MXR_Phase_90#cite_note-2>. “Deluxe Moon Phaser.” Deluxe Moon Phaser. Red Witch Pedals, n.d. Web. 22 Mar. 2016. <http://www.redwitchpedals.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=22>. “Hardwire SP-7 Stereo Phase Owner’s Manual.” STEREO PHASER (2008): n. pag. Harmanpro.com. DigiTech. Web. 22 Mar. 2016. <http://rdn.harmanpro.com/product_documents/documents/284_1349992803/SP-7_Manual_5024341-B_original.pdf>. “Phaser.” Empress Effects. Empress Effects Inc., n.d. Web. 23 Mar. 2016. <http://empresseffects.com/products/phaser>. “DigiTech Phasor/201 (2013).” DigiTech Guitar Effects. DigiTech, n.d. Web. 23 Mar. 2016. <http://digitech.com/en-US/products/phasor-201-2013#artists>. “Jonny Greenwood’s Rig.” The King of Gear. N.p., n.d. Web. 29 Mar. 2016. <http://thekingofgear.com/jonny>. “How To Sound Like Dave Grohl: Gear Guide & Tips.” PMT Online. Professional Music Technology, 18 Nov. 2014. Web. 29 Mar. 2016. <http://www.pmtonline.co.uk/blog/2014/11/18/how-to-sound-like-dave-grohl-gear-guide-tips/>. Taylor, Phil. “History of Delay.” Effectrode. N.p., 06 Jan. 2011. Web. 31 Mar. 2016. <http://www.effectrode.com/echorec-3/history-of-delay/>. Stafford, Sadie. “Music in the Digital Age.” The Elon Journal of Undergraduate Research in Communications • Vol. 1, No. 2 • Fall 2010 Music in the Digital Age: The Emergence of Digital Music and Its Repercussions on the Music Industry (n.d.): n. pag. Elon. Web. 31 Mar. 2016. <http://www.elon.edu/docs/e-web/academics/communications/research/vol1no2/09staffordejfall10.pdf>. “Dunlop Blog » MXR 40th Anniversary: A Short History.” Dunlop Blog MXR 40th Anniversary A Short History Comments. Jim Dunlop USA, 5 Mar. 2014. Web. 31 Mar. 2016. <http://www.jimdunlop.com/blog/mxr-40th-anniversary-a-short-history/>. Flickr Commons Image Courtesy of Aaron H. Warren To Buy Phaser Pedals Go To: B & H Pro Audio Sweetwater Musician's Friend Guitar Center If you enjoyed this article - you might enjoy How To Develop Better Tremolo Picking Used with the express written permission of Guitar Chalk "This is a syndicated version of a best phaser pedal roundup, originally published on Guitar Chalk." __________________________________________________________________ Bobby Kittleberger is Guitar Chalk's founder, CEO and a staff writer for Guitar Tricks. You can hit him up on Twitter or shoot him an email to get in touch.
  11. Imogen Heap Interview Hands-On MIDI - Literally by The MIDI Association (presented by Team HC) Tell us briefly about yourself - I write, sing, play various instruments, program drums etc, edit, mix and produce my own work in my home studio or wherever a project takes me. I'm now fully independent, with no management, publishing or label! It feels amazing to be completely untethered. Over the last five years I've been developing with a team of now eight people, a gestural performance system around wireless gloves. We call the system Mi.Mu. To reach inside the technology of the computer and sculpt music. Changing the way creatively we think about sound both at the writing and performance end of the spectrum, and closer engagement with the audience. I tend to make things where I find gaps in my life, workflow or business. Songs, gloves and recently imagining a Fair Trade Music industry I call Mycelia. What was your first encounter with MIDI? A sound module in the cupboard at the music school I went to. In there was an Atari with Notator, and the sounds I played were off of this device… but I actually have no idea what it was but it was hooked up via MIDI! I was 12, this was back in 1990. How do you use MIDI today? I use it mainly when mapping my gloves into Ableton Live. Choosing the MIDI channel and note or cc, I can automate anything within the program, wirelessly and fluidly. For example, simply panning a sound from left to right, by moving my arm left to right. Or gaining the length of a reverb by One Finger Point, to the top right 'corner' of the space before me. How has MIDI allowed you to do what you do? The [MIDI] standard is one of the few where, because of its elegance and simplicity, it has been adopted across the industry and so making it possible to try out all manner of weird and wonderful applications. It just works. We just need someone to sort out wireless a bit better now so we don't have to have all those darned MIDI cables! Anything else you'd like to add? Just to say thank you! Reprinted with the express written permission of The MIDI Association __________________________________________ THE MIDI ASSOCIATION (TMA) The community of people who work, play and create with MIDI The MIDI Association’s mission is to nurture an inclusive global community of people who create music and art with MIDI. The www.MIDI.org website is the central repository of information about anything related to MIDI technology, from classic legacy gear to next- gen protocols on the horizon.
  12. Team HC

    Dead Content

    BOSS BR-800 Digital Recorder Some multi-track recorders are simply timeless ... by Adam Harkus (adapted by Team HC) My brief history of the stand-alone multitrack recorder My first multi-track recorder, way back in the mid-90s was a cassette-based TASCAM 4-track Porta05 ministudio. Cassette tape had its limitations, primarily the degradation of the tape itself after numerous takes, but it was what we had. Then in 2000, along came the Zip-disk based Boss BR-8 with much more storage space, 24-bit digital quality, but you still needed to switch disks - which were, at the time, becoming increasingly hard to find (a 100MB disk held about three songs). Nevertheless, with a decent external drum machine/keyboard I was able to put together tracks with which I was fairly happy. Now a BOSS convert, I purchased its successor, the Compact Flash card-based Boss BR-600 almost immediately, on its release in 2007. I fell in love...it was around half the size of the BR-8, with sleek rubber buttons that reminded me of my ZX Spectrum 48k back in the day, and a rather fetching champagne colour. It featured much larger, quieter and easier (and cheaper) to obtain storage, USB connectivity (to save songs to your PC), twin built-in condenser mics to quickly capture ideas, but most exciting of all, a built-in drum machine! BOSS really hit it out of the park with BR-600, and I spent a lot of my time happily recording with it, making the most out the great-sounding COSM vocal and guitar amp models (in particular the guitar-to-bass patch, which provided hours of fun). Then I got distracted for a while within the frustrating, latency-plagued world of DAWs (Digital Audio Workstation) and dedicated USB audio interfaces. In the end I could never get a DAW working in my setup to satisfactory standard (see the link opposite for more details). I continued to record with the BR-600 until, in 2010, along came the follow-up and what I still use today: the BOSS BR-800 Digital Recorder. First impressions As I'd come to expect from BOSS, the BOSS BR-800 appeared to improve on its predecessor. The internal mics had been upgraded, in place of Compact Flash we finally had SD Card storage, the interface had been cleaned up, the rubber buttons replaced with much more modern touch-screen style layout, and the screen enlarged. The new hardware was slightly bigger than the BR-600, but it was advertised to include many new features, most importantly of which was the ability to function as a USB audio interface for the first time in the BR series. BOSS BR-800 Sketch Recording Unlike the BR-600, we now have a dedicated button "Song Sketch." One press and you're into the recording mode of your choice. I set this up to record with the internal mics, and it's become an invaluable alternative to using a dedicated PCM recorder. Even now the BR-800's internal mics far surpass any mobile phone for recording band rehearsals / gigs etc., although for rough ideas I still tend to find my phone as it's quicker and easier. BOSS BR-800 as a practice tool With its ability to function as a USB interface, the BOSS BR-800 has become a mainstay of my home practice setup. With no need for a guitar amp and effects pedals, I simply have the BR-800 and my PC connected to the same set of desktop monitors. I play back tracks from YouTube or Windows Media player for example, while the guitar sounds come from the BR-800's excellent COSM models. While you'll never get the response or dynamics of a valve amp at full tilt in this setup, for practicing at lower volumes the tones you can get out of the BR-800 are much better than just a compromise, in fact, you'll have access to a wider range of tones than you would through one amp anyway. To make things even easier you also have the option of setting up your own user patches for clean, crunch, lead, acoustic, vocals, bass, etc and recalling them instantly. BOSS's rejection of the stand-alone multitrack format As I delved deeper into the BR-800's features, I got to the point of editing some drum tracks for my latest song, only to find, almost unbelievably, that the BR-800 doesn't include drum track editing! I took a step back, read the manual and went on-line only to have it confirmed, Not only that, but track editing has also been greatly dumbed down. I must admit I was starting to feel ripped off by now, especially given the $570.00 (£399) price tag (at the time) and the fact that the above features were all included in the BR-600. Sure, the mics were great, as was the song sketch, I liked the 'EZ REC' feature which gave you defaults, suggestions and made things easier to set up. But what I had here now was a costly sketch pad, I couldn't use the limited drums for complete songs (unlike the BR-600), in fact the lack of editing features made the song creation process a lot more clunky. To use the BR-800 effectively, I was forced into going back to the latency-ridden world of DAWs. The BR-800 represents, sadly, BOSS's rejection of the stand-alone multitrack format. The BOSS BR-800 as a USB audio interface I researched DAWs again, settling on Ableton Live which seemed the most natural to work with. This would give me all the editing options I needed. For drums I went for ToonTrack EZ-Drummer, a million times better-sounding and more flexible than any BOSS BR series recorder in any case. And then I integrated the BOSS BR-800 into the setup. A lightbulb moment! What I now had was essentially the best of all worlds. Editing, drums, general song project management and data storage were handled by the best tool for the job, a DAW on my PC. Whereas monitoring, including all the fantastic COSM vocal and guitar effects were handled, latency free, on the BR-800. I was close before with DAWs, but had always used dedicated USB audio interfaces without vocal/guitar amp modelling, I'd messed about with DAW effects plug-ins but quickly found out that latency reared its ugly head the more effects you applied to the monitor send. No such problems with the BOSS BR-800. (Rear View) Connections - (Side View) The Competition Zoom R8 - Similar spec to the BOSS BR-800, although it does include editing features that the BOSS lacks. Zoom's amp modelling has always been impressive. BOSS GT-001 - Billed as a desktop GT-100 Guitar Multi-Effects, but this tidy unit has a mic input enabling it to approach the BR-800's functionality. Lacks internal mics and a dedicated vocal processor though. TASCAM DP-32-SD - TASCAM's latest Portastudio Flagship has all the features you could ever want, but can it match the Zoom or BOSS amp sims ? Bargain price. Conclusion Way back in 2010, BOSS, in the BR-800 Digital Recorder, provided me with a tool, a solution. To this day I still use it for practice, capturing ideas and performances, but mostly as the ideal USB audio interface to monitor and record latency-free processed vocal and guitar tracks for my music. The COSM vocal and amp models never fail to impress, both in their sounds and their flexibility. To end though, even though the era of the stand-alone "portastudio" style recording interface is in its twilight, in six years I've never felt the need to upgrade. The BOSS BR-800 just lets me get on with the job of making music, and I can't give a better recommendation than that. Resources Official Website - www.bossus.com Videos - "Everything's Alright". Adam Harkus song produced on his BOSS BR-800 BOSS BR-800 Demos by Alex Hutchings, a guitarist who regularly demos BOSS gear, here's some of his vids on the BR-800. Very entertaining and inspiring. Part 1 - Part 2 - BOSS Official BR-800 Video - To Purchase - From Sweetwater From B&H Photo-Video-Pro Audio From Musician's Friend From Guitar Center ____________________________________________________________ Adam Harkus is a Harmony Central community member and a guitarist, singer/songwriter and producer with over 25 years experience. He likes to provide detailed, hands-on reviews of products, instruments and equipment in hopes to inspire people to make better music. Visit Adam at his Hub Page
  13. The Baskin-Robbins Effect Dampens Enthusiasm At NAMM Product Proliferation makes it harder for any individual flavor to have a material impact by Brian Majeski PERHAPS THE MOST commonly asked question at the NAMM show is, "Have you seen any really hot products?" In years past, whenever you asked the question, you'd get a list of "must see" items. These days, however, it's more often greeted with a shrug, a pause, or perhaps a non-committal answer like, "nothing amazing, but I saw a few cool guitars, I like the brand x tuner, and brand Z is offering a decent new keyboard." Do these diffident replies indicate that industry R&D teams are falling down on the job? Have we become so accustomed to revolutionary technologies like smartphones and Bluetooth that we don't impress easily? Or is something else at work here? We don't think deficient R&D efforts are the problem. Manufacturers in every segment of the industry continue to refine and advance designs and production methods, resulting in the highest level of product value in history. A seriously jaded public could have something to do with it. There is a pronounced tendency to take for granted remarkable technologies that were inconceivable only a few years ago, like the passenger who comes unglued because of a balky Wi-Fi connection on the airplane. We suspect that the primary cause of this apparent enthusiasm deficit has more to do with product proliferation than mediocre designs and cranky customers. In recent years, growth in the number of distinct products or "SKUs" has far outstripped the growth in music products sales. Simple math dictates that stable industry sales volume, spread over more products, means that every individual product brings in less revenue. Think of it like Baskin-Robbins Ice Cream: When you expand from serving just vanilla and chocolate to offering 31 flavors, it becomes harder for any individual flavor to have a material impact on gross sales. The music industry has had a similarly dramatic increase in SKU, with the same outcome: individual SKUs are less significant. In the 1950s, Fender Electric Instruments offered just four guitar models in four finishes. When Fred McCord, a leading Dallas retailer, told a Music Trades reporter in 1955 that his Stratocaster sales were "taking off," he was referring to a single guitar. Today, the Fender product line includes dozens of models in hundreds of finishes and hardware configurations. Ask a dealer about his Stratocaster business, and he's likely to respond, "Which kind of Strat? American? Mexican? Custom Shop? Standard? Squier?" In the 1990s, a musician who wanted to set up a digital recording studio had no choice but to buy an Alesis ADAT. The same musician today can chose among dozens of different software and hardware alternatives to create a similar studio. The proliferation of models has also extended into traditional products. An aspiring student saxophonist looking to buy a step-up horn once had only French and Japanese alternatives to choose from. Now they also have access to a raft of high-quality "boutique" instruments from Taiwan. Is this model proliferation due to consumer demand for products tailored to their specific needs? Or is it because improved production techniques have made shorter production runs economically viable? It's a little bit like asking which came first, the chicken or the egg. We don't have the answer. What we know is that the combination of consumers wanting it "their way," and what are referred to as "mass-customization production techniques" has definitely accelerated SKU proliferation. This trend is not unique to the music products industry. America's favorite cookie, the Oreo, is now available in at least 16 distinct variants and dozens of different packaging configurations. Or consider automobiles. When the U.S. car and light truck market stood at approximately 9 million units in 1966, one model, the Chevrolet Impala, accounted for 28% of all sales, or 2.5 million units. Last year, the car and truck market hit 17 million units, and the top-selling model was the Ford F Series pick-up, with a comparatively paltry 720,000 unit sold. Whether this trend is good or bad depends on who you ask. Those on the sales end of the business no doubt think it's great. A wider product offering makes it easier to respond to customer needs and close sales. If you're on the production or operations side of the business, you're probably less enthusiastic. More SKUs mean more complexity, a higher probability of error, and reduced efficiency. For retailers, more SKUs increase the challenge of inventory management. Whatever your opinion, the product proliferation trend is more likely to speed up than slow down in the coming years. A more varied product offering makes it possible to better meet the needs of the buying public. The downside is perhaps a more subdued response to new product introductions. Used with the express written permission of MUSIC TRADES MAGAZINE ____________________________________________________ Brian T. Majeski is the Editor for The Music Trades Magazine, one of the longest-running trade publications in the world. The Majeski family has owned The Music Trades Magazine for 87 years and Brian has been the editor for over 34 years. For more info on The Music Trades Magazine, please go to: www.themusictrades.com
  14. How to Buy the Right Guitar or Bass Strap It’s not as simple as you might think… By Cori Gordon Many guitarists think of straps as being pretty much all the same, but that’s definitely not true. There are significant differences, and choosing the right strap can mean the difference between a comfortable night of playing and sore shoulders—or even worse, a broken guitar as it falls to the floor. Also, a strap complements the look of not just the guitar, but the artist. There are so many different types of straps on the market that choosing the right one can be overwhelming, because there are so many different prices, manufacturers, styles, and materials. So your first task is to figure out what will suit your needs best, and that will cut down on the number of options so you can make a more informed choice. GUITAR AND BASS STRAP TYPES There are three main types of straps, based on the materials they use. Leather straps are probably the most popular and stylish straps, with the widest range of sizes, styles, and colors. They’re also similar to a pair of shoes, because if you take care of them properly, they become more comfortable the longer you wear them in. The most popular leather strap styles resemble suede, cowhide, or snakeskin. Leather straps are also fairly easy to customize, and you can often find them with monograms, rivets, metal buckles, etc. Suede straps tend to be less expensive on average than leather straps, and although they may take up a little less space than leather straps when stored, they still form a fairly large roll. Comfortable and durable, the basic models are between 56 to 62 inches long, and 2.5 to 3 inches wide. To prevent fraying, they’re typically made of two pieces of suede leather, stitched around the edges although more expensive versions may have thick padding sewn on the inside. Nylon straps are the most affordable variety, but they’re also dependable and you can store them easily, as they don’t take up much space. For these reasons, they’re quite popular. There are two main varieties. Basic models are typically 56 inches long, 2 inches wide, and have triangular-shaped leather ends. These are fine for light-to-moderate use, but be aware the leather ends will wear out fairly rapidly if you use the guitar a lot. More upscale models are made of higher-end nylon and polyester, and the ends are either made of a tough plastic or heavy-duty leather. These also tend to be 56 inches long, and you can find variations like built-in strap locks, padding stitched into the fabric, and novel designs. OTHER CONSIDERATIONS Style. Of course, you have to make sure that the strap matches your playing style. If you’re playing in a cover band that does pop songs, you probably don’t want a strap that’s covered with skulls giving people the finger. Note that reviews of style-oreiented straps aren’t as meaningful as reviews of the companies making them, because a strap that might look great to you might not be to someone else’s tastes—but you do want to make sure a strap is well-built and dependable. Practicality. If practicality is paramount, go for something lightweight—like straps with leather ends and cotton, where the cotton keeps the strap from sliding around as you move. As opposed to choosing a strap for style, here’s where you do want to pay attention to what reviews say about practicality. Importance. Don’t let straps be an afterthought—they’re as important as any other guitar accessory and in some ways even more so, because they are the gatekeepers of your guitar’s safety. If the strap ends fly off the guitar’s end pins, you’re in trouble unless you have fast reflexes. And finally, don’t just take the first strap you find. Do some research, try out different types of straps, ask other musicians for their opinions, and research different brands to see whose products fit your needs the best. Choose your strap wisely, and your guitar will have a friend for life. Reprinted with the express written permission of Levy's Leather RESOURCES: Related Articles: Essential Electric Guitar Accessories Essential Electric Bass Accessories ___________________________________ Cori Gordon is an Editor who also handles Marketing at Levy's Leathers Acoustic Guitar Straps.
  15. Exploring Guitar Arpeggios—The Upper Register Outside The First Few Frets ... by Bobby Kittleberger (adapted by TEAM HC) Typically, we learn our first chords near the bottom of the fretboard. This is where the CAGED system is the most functional, allowing us to take advantage of open notes and simple chord composition. It’s home plate for most beginner guitar players, where they learn basic chords before moving onto more difficult topics. What can become problematic though, is when there’s no attempt to develop a comfort-level outside of those first few frets. It might just be really familiar to you. You then find yourself playing there all the time. This can confine your abilities and make your chord progressions one-dimensional. What’s the worse part? It can become dreadfully boring. Take the open E major chord, for example: The formal E major requires that we camp out on the 2nd fret. With this chord, we have three open notes and nothing moves past the second fret. In this lesson, we’ll show you how to move basic chords up the fretboard to the higher register. Aside from variety and avoiding what you might consider boring chords, learning to move chords up the fretboard has a few notable benefits: It gives chords a more clear and chime-like tone-quality. It gives you more dynamic sounding chord progressions. It gives you the ability to meld your rhythm playing into lead playing with melodic patterns. It’s about getting chords to a place where you can do more with them. That’s why moving them up the fretboard is our first step. From there, we’ll break up our chords and show you how to develop melodic guitar arpeggio patterns using those chords, instead of relying on the low, open chord sequences you already know. First, let’s look at some theory that will allow us to break from chords rooted on the lower frets. Staying in Key and the G, C and D Progression All common chord progressions have a bass line and a key that are layered in this order: KEY - BASS LINE - CHORD PROGRESSION The key and bass line are both prioritized over your guitar’s chord progression in a structural sense. So, in order to move your chord progression more freely, perhaps even break ranks with it entirely to write some lead parts, we need to break it back down to the bass line and then the key. This is so we can establish song structure. Write everything out in the following order, to aid memorization: Jot down this song structure hierarchy so you can remember how to prioritize chord progressions when writing music. We choose our song structure in that order: Key Bass Line Chord Progression By default, the chord progression matches the bass line. However, what we’re looking to do is move past the chord progression and meld our rhythm work with some lead guitar melody. That means we can “assume” the bass line. In other words, we’re no longer responsible for carrying the bass line note-for-note or chord-for-chord. Assume that you have a bass player or rhythm guitarist who is handling this progression. Maybe this guy: Let your bass player handle the bulk of the chord progression. | Flickr Commons Image Courtesy of bjko Once we understand that we aren’t locked into the chord progression, we can begin to break that progression down and move it up the fretboard. Let’s go back to our example bass line: G - C - Em - D On a tab sheet, the corresponding progression might come out something like this: E|--------0-----B|--3--1--0--3--G|--0--0--0--2--D|--0--2--2--0--A|--x--3--2-----E|--3-----0----- Now, we need to relocate the progression. Start by isolating the root notes of each chord in your tab: E|--------0-----B|--3--1--0--3--G|--0--0--0--2--D|--0--2--2--0--A|--x--3--2-----E|--3-----0----- This gives us the notes for our bass line. G - C - Em - D While ignoring the intervals (notes) of each chord, find a spot for each root note on the higher portion of the fretboard. For example, another G note occurs on the fifth string at the 10th fret: E|------B|------G|------D|------A|--10--E|------ We can then move the C: E|------B|------G|------D|--10--A|------E|------ The E: E|-----B|-----G|--9--D|-----A|-----E|----- And the D: E|------B|------G|------D|------A|------E|--10-- Now, our bass line looks like this: E|-----------------B|-----------------G|----------9------D|------10---------A|--10-------------E|-------------10-- Keep in mind, this is just one option. For each note, there are multiple locations throughout the entire fretboard. Take the root G for example. Every blue note highlighted here is a G. We can see that a G note can be found at multiple locations on the fretboard. What this means (theoretically) is that we could compile a G chord with a root note at any of these locations. The one’s I’ve chosen on the tab are merely options and not exact requirements. Building a New Chord Progression and Arpeggio You should also observe that the G note at the 10th fret on the fifth string is perhaps the most optimal for building a chord on the higher register. Using the same diagram, let’s remove all the other G notes and build our new chord. We take the root G at the 10th fret and add three intervals to build our chord. Building a chord is a two step process: Establish the root note Add your intervals In this case, I’ve added three intervals to our root G: Perfect Fifth Octave Major 3rd In the diagram, you can see that the second note in that sequence is marked with an “R”, meaning it matches the root note at the 10th fret. What I want to do now is make the original root note (the one at the 10th fret) optional. Remember, we said earlier that the bass line is assumed, which means you can play any portion of your chord and still be in key without having that low root note included. Going forward, be aware that this is usually the case. If you’d rather see all this in tabs, here’s the arpeggio version: E|-------------------B|---------------12--G|-----------12------D|-------12----------A|-(10)--------------E|------------------- The parenthesis around the root indicates that it’s a ghost note. Now that we have an arpeggiated G chord, let’s work on our C chord. Recall our new bass line: E|-----------------B|-----------------G|----------9------D|------10---------A|--10-------------E|-------------10-- The root C we’ll use, is on the fourth string at the 10th fret. While there are a few different ways you can build out a C chord from here, let’s go with the most intuitive options. Add the following intervals: Perfect 5th Octave Adding these two intervals in relation to our root note would give us the following pattern: Another possible G chord voicing on the higher register. We can now arpeggiate this line and add it to our previous tab sheet: E|------------------------------B|--------------12----------13--G|----------12----------12------D|------12----------10----------A|--10--------------------------E|------------------------------ Now that you probably get the system and the procedure, let’s finish out the tab with our Em and D chord, then work on mixing it up and improvising a little. E|------------------------------------0--------------B|--------------12----------13-----8-----------------G|----------12----------12------9----------------11--D|------12----------10-----------------------12------A|--10-----------------------------------------------E|---------------------------------------10---------- This is our completed tab for a higher register version of our original chord progression. I’ll go ahead and provide the standard notation as well: 1. Straight Line Arpeggio We’ll now learn to use this pattern more freely and creatively. Remember, we’re in the key of G and we are taking on more of a lead guitar role, which means as long as we stay in the right key, we don’t necessarily need to adhere to the entire chord progression. For starters, we’ll break this down by removing some of the lower root notes and staggering the intervals: 2. Staggered Arpeggio without Root Notes Once again, the root notes (despite the fact that they’re much higher than before) are assumed and not played. You can also adapt the pattern to include the root notes, staggering each chord in the same manner. 3. Staggered Arpeggio with Root Notes This is also an ideal finger-picking pattern, where you would tackle the root notes at the 10th and 9th frets with your thumb and use your other fingers to pick through the intervals in an alternating pattern. All three of these patterns are going to sound more melodic and unique than what you would get if you were to simply strum through the chord progression on the lower frets. It’s much more interesting and musical than just strumming along with a bass line. In this case, we’re actually doing something with the chords we’re given, which is our true task as guitar players. Our playing should be melodic and colorful, like a good 1950s ad campaign. Flickr Commons Image Courtesy of classic film In other words, we want to really add something to the bass line. This is a good way to make it happen. Open Notes and the E, A and B Progression Another common chord progression you’ll see is the E, A, and B pattern. The three chords are often played this way: E|--0--0--0--B|--0--2--0--G|--1--2--4--D|--2--2--4--A|--2--0--2--E|--0-------- This entire progression is locked into the bottom of the fretboard, relying on a number of open notes. However, we aren’t necessarily trying to avoid open notes. We’re just trying to avoid the tired, boring, open-chord strumming routine. In this case, we’ll re-purpose most of those same open notes, while moving the fretted intervals to the higher register. For starters, let’s find some workable root notes on the higher register of the fretboard. Remember, we’re looking for E, A, and B. I’ll add the root notes and the chord shapes together since we’ve already seen the process of breaking up a chord’s root note and intervals. Here’s what I came up with: E|--0--0--0--B|--0--0--0--G|--9--9--8--D|-----7--9--A|-----------E|----------- In this example, I don’t have any notes that are lower than the A on the fourth string. Instead, I’ve used root notes planted on the third and fourth strings and utilized the high B and E notes, which are easily accessible via the first and second open strings. From here, we can build our arpeggios in the same manner: 1. Straight Line 2. Staggered Arpeggios without Root Notes 3. Staggered Arpeggios with Root Notes With so few notes, we’re a bit limited in terms of how we’re able to arrange the arpeggio, though it is possible to add more notes or thicken it up. The idea is to show you that you can be as minimal with them as you’d like. However, if it just needs a little something extra, there are primarily two ways you can add lower notes back into the shape. Guitar Arpeggios Thickening Method #1: Use the Deep Root Note Just as we’ve built chords higher, we can build them lower in the same manner. Here’s what I mean: Take the E note at the 9th fret: E|-----B|-----G|--9--D|-----A|-----E|----- In our example, we add intervals above it, using the open B and E strings. E|--------0--B|-----0-----G|--9--------D|-----------A|-----------E|----------- But, we can do the same thing in the other direction, if we take the notes that would be included in the full version of the chord. E|--------------B|--------------G|--9-----------D|-----9--------A|--------7-----E|-----------0-- Any of these notes can be used to accent your arpeggio during the E-chord phase of the progression. For example, you could just add the low, open E. E|-----------0--B|--------0-----G|-----9--------D|--------------A|--------------E|--0----------- Were you to do the same thing with the A and B chords, the shape would probably look something like this: E|-----------0--------------0--------------0--B|--------0--------------0--------------0-----G|-----9--------------9--------------8--------D|-----------------7--------------9-----------A|--------------0-----------------------------E|--0--------------------------7-------------- There’s plenty of flexibility as you write your arpeggios to experiment with different combinations and arrangements of notes. Since you’ve got the process down, you can now focus on improvising and learning how to write arpeggio patterns that sound melodic. What I’d like to do now is help you hone your ability to memorize these patterns. But first, let’s take a look at the process we’ve established for writing them: Choose a key to play in. Choose a chord progression within that key. Move the root notes of each chord to the higher register of the fretboard. Build out the intervals for each chord. Arpeggiate the note sequences. Simple, right? Let’s get into some improvisation technique. Improvising Arpeggio Patterns Up to this point we’ve been learning structure. And that’s a good thing. It’s what we should be doing before trying to tackle the artistic side of any musical topic. But now that we have the structure in place, how do we engage our creative energy when it comes to arpeggios on the guitar? First, we need to identify the areas where creativity is most directly applicable: Melody Harmony Tone For a guitar player, these are the three places where we have the most breathing room and creative input. As Christopher Walken once said, “Really explore the space.” Flickr Commons Image Courtesy of clappstar So how do we explore the space that these areas afford? First, we look back at our structural components: Key Chord Progression Bass Line Rhythm (unless you’re coming up with it) When improvising anything on the guitar, it’s crucial to start by knowing exactly where you’re at and what will work for you on the fretboard. From here, you can make educated decisions about melody, harmony, and tone. So, we’ll first come up with some structural scenarios that will allow us to develop our guitar arpeggios in a proper, theoretically-sensitive context. Scenario #1: The Open G Run (easy) Key: G Bass Line: G Chords: Gmaj Effects Options This run is simple, so we can add a little reverb and some light delay to an otherwise clean amp signal. I used what I’m calling the “Garden Variety Digital Delay” from my post on Line 6 DL4 Delay settings. The Garden Variety Digital Delay Model Add whatever reverb you have on your amp, setting the dial to around three or four. In the sound samples below, I added a phaser effect as well. As far as EQ goes, I’d advise trying something with a little more low end, so that the higher notes don’t sound too shrill or piercing. For now, we’ll just start with the tab and get used to the pattern: Tab and Standard Notation Making Changes To add your own creative flair to this piece, first separate the melody line from the low G note. This means that everything happening on the second string (plus the short run in the third measure) can be considered a melodic line. Let’s look at that pattern in a tab sheet by itself: E|----------------------------------------------B|--8--7--5--3-------------13--12--10--8--7--8--G|---------------------12-----------------------D|------------------9---------------------------A|----------------------------------------------E|---------------------------------------------- This is the melody line that the tab follows, with all of the root G notes removed. Now, we have essentially two different options: We can just add some new notes by taking wild guesses about what would sound right. We can add new notes based on a scale sequence. We’ll cover the process of both tactics. #1: Add New Notes by Taking Wild Guesses This is probably one of the most popular methods of improvisation and not an entirely bad one. And perhaps it’s more accurate to call them “educated guesses,” since guitar players are usually aware of the key they’re playing in and will try to add notes based on some kind of interval sequence. To implement that tactic here, we’d simply examine the pattern that is established and look to extend it. Look at the first portion of the tab: E|--------------B|--8--7--5--3--G|--------------D|--------------A|--------------E|-------------- It stands to reason that if we can drop from seven to five, we can move up from eight to 10 to 12. To test our theory, let’s walk down the pattern, then back, adding our new notes on the way up: E|-------------------------------B|--8--7--5--3--5--7--8--10--12--G|-------------------------------D|-------------------------------A|-------------------------------E|------------------------------- If it sounds like a fit, you can use the new pattern (I’ve highlighted it in red). From here, you can add your root G notes back in and do the same thing to the second half of the tab: #2: Add New Notes Based on a Scale Sequence What you’ll probably find is that after you’ve spent some time studying guitar scales and intervals, you’ll notice that when you add notes by “guessing” you’ll intuitively gravitate towards notes that match the key or scale that you’re playing in. In other words, you start to feel things out without having really memorized a particular chord. However, it’s still necessary and useful to be intentional about identifying a scale and then using it to build our arpeggios. So this time, we’ll build our pattern, not by hopeful guessing, but by identifying a scale that fits within our key and provides a grid for our improvisation. Remember to identify the key first. If you recall, we’re in the key of G: Thus, the G major scale would be an ideal choice: G MAJOR SCALE KEY SIGNATURE: G - A - B - C - D - E - F♯ Let’s go ahead and identify these notes on the fretboard, via the second string: Locate where the notes of the G major scale fall on the second string. What you should notice is that this run is really similar to the pattern we came up with earlier. In fact, there’s no real difference, aside perhaps from the order of the notes. But, this is one way that you could have gotten there. And since we know the scale shape a little better at this point, let’s stack the notes closer together, using the high E string in addition to the B. Here’s where the notes will fall: Our G major scale looks more like a scale with all seven notes now stacked through out the high E and B strings. Keep in mind that even if these notes aren’t in the same order, they’re still in the same key. That means, when you’re improvising or building arpeggios, they’re all fair game. Let’s try some patterns with just these notes: At the end of the tab, we break from our original grouping of notes just slightly to resolve on the high G. Adding the Effects Remember the effects we mentioned earlier? Let’s actually add those into the pattern. First, let’s listen to it with a metronome and a clean amp signal: Sound Bite - Not bad, but not particularly interesting. Let’s try the same thing with a phase effect added. We used a model of the MXR Phase 90 here: Sound Bite - That’s a little better, but it still needs something. Let’s try and throw in a tempo-sensitive delay from our Line 6 DL4 and see what we get: Sound Bite - If you ask me, that is much better than our previous two recordings. And it highlights the beauty of the electric guitar, in that you can come up with melodic arpeggio patterns that aren’t complicated and still make them sound really nice. This patterns adds flavor and variety without deviating from the notes we put together via the G major scale. Outlining the Process This is what we’ll do for our next couple examples: We’ll identify and decide what key we want to play in. We’ll extract a scale sequence from that key. We’ll base our arpeggiated pattern on that scale. We’ll add effects and manipulate tone to polish and add color to our notes. Since we’ve already covered the process, I’ll go more quickly through the next two scenarios. Let’s move into something a little more challenging. Scenario #2: Descending in the Key of E Major (moderate) Key: E Bass Line: E - C♯ - B - A Chords: Emaj - C♯min - Bsus (open form) - Amaj Effects Options We’ll keep the delay we used in the previous pattern, but drop the phaser in favor of a touch of chorus. Here are a few pedals that might fit the bill: Line 6 DL4 Boss CE-5 Chorus Ensemble Fender FRV-1 63 Reverb Now, if you don’t have these pedals it’s not a problem. In fact, the effects sections of these posts don’t have to be followed to the letter, or at all. But, I don’t believe I’m giving you complete instruction if I don’t tell you how I would “finish off” and polish these shapes with some good effects choices. Again, we’ll get to the sound samples at the bottom. Scale Sequence and Tabs We’ve already said we’re in the key of E major, so let’s go ahead and look at the sequence of the E major scale: E MAJOR SCALE KEY SIGNATURE: E - F♯ - G♯ - A - B - C♯ - D♯ Now, we need to plot those notes on our scale diagram, just like before: Notes from the E major scale plotted on the third and fourth strings. Every note of the E major scale is accounted for and some more than once. We can use this pattern to easily improvise some higher register arpeggios. Tabs and Standard Notation Every single note in this pattern is straight from the E major scale. We haven’t deviated from that scale at all. In fact, we’ve even managed to loosely match the chords from our bass line and progression, E - C♯ - B - A. At the end of the pattern, we drop back to the low E and add harmonics on the high E and B strings to finish things out. However, even that doesn’t deviate from the original scale pattern. Adding the Effects I used the same delay as before, along with a slight tremolo and reverb from the amp model. I’ll give you the finished product up front: Sound Bite - The final result is a rich, full, and engaging melody that climbs down the chord progression with a consistent ringing of the high B and E strings. It’s a great way to flavor an acoustic progression for a more mellow tune in the key of E major. Scenario #3: Key of D major Key: D Bass Line: D - G - A Chords: Dmaj - Gmaj - Amaj Effects Options For this pattern, we’ll use a similar amp model and stick with the effects combination used in the previous scenario. Scale Sequence and Tabs To stay in the key of D, we’ll look at the pitch sequence for the D major scale: D MAJOR SCALE KEY SIGNATURE: D - E - F♯ - G - A - B - C♯ Once again, we can plot our scale near the middle of the fretboard: If we plot the scale pitches on these three strings, we have several ideal chord opportunities As you might have noticed, all our root notes are open notes - D, G, and A. We can use these notes to easily build our chords using different combinations. Here’s a run that I came up with: From here, I added the delay and a little modulation with a chorus effect. I also slowed the tempo down to about 80bmp so each note can be clearly heard. Sound Bite - When to Use Arpeggios Depending on your genre, melodic guitar arpeggios are often more malleable and easier to use then the “traditional” guitar solo. It’s also more subtle, which is useful in today’s musical context where electric guitars have become far more subtle than in decades past. Use arpeggios on the higher register when a solo is overkill. You can also use them when you’re looking for a less intrusive, melodic additive or when a certain portion of a song (version, chorus etc.) needs a little something extra. They can also fit in well when there’s an absence of a dominant melody, like vocals or piano. Those are places where guitar can often fill in without sounding overly messy. More on Effects Use Since effects can be such a significant part of the equation, let’s see if we can’t get specific about what works and what doesn’t. As I’ve already mentioned, this tactic is best employed to offer subtle accent and flavor. It’s less ideal when the guitar is the dominant foreground instrument. Now, of course, these are generalizations and not rules. Still, in the spirit of subtlety, I would focus on these effects primarily when employing this tactic: Delay Tremolo Chorus Phaser Reverb These are all what we would consider modulation or timing effects. Mixing and matching these with higher guitar arpeggios will give you an ethereal and chime-like tone that works well with those higher notes. My favorite combination is a short delay with a slow phase effect, which is what we used in our first example. Your usage will obviously depend on your situation, your pedalboard, and what effects you have available to work with. I would advise getting some sort of effect onto these patterns in most cases. Used with the express written permission of Guitar Chalk __________________________________________________________________ Bobby Kittleberger is Guitar Chalk's founder, CEO and a staff writer for Guitar Tricks. You can hit him up on Twitter or shoot him an email to get in touch.
  16. Three Fun Guitar Fingerpicking Patterns Beginners to Pros, Here's How To Spice Up Your Songs by Maile Proctor (adapted by Team HC) Whether you just started guitar lessons or you’ve been playing for a while, guitar fingerpicking patterns can spice up your playing! Teacher Kirk R. teaches you three guitar fingerpicking patterns to add to your guitar-playing toolbox… If you’ve mastered all of the left-hand chord shapes, adding some right-hand flair will help you keep things interesting. If you’re still working on your first couple of chords, or maybe haven’t gotten that far yet, using some guitar fingerpicking patterns is a great way to impress your friends. There’s an almost unlimited number of ways to pick a chord with your right hand, so covering all the possibilities would take forever! Let’s keep things simple and go over a few of the basic guitar fingerpicking patterns. “Boom-Chick” Guitar Fingerpicking Let’s start with what I call a “boom-chick” pattern. You may also see it called “boom-chuck,” or something else entirely, and you may also see slightly different right-hand techniques with the same name. The pattern starts with a bass note that you play with your thumb, followed by a group of higher notes. Most of the time, this will be a group of three notes, and you will use your index finger, middle finger, and ring finger. This pattern can also vary and have fewer notes, or you can add a fourth note with your thumb, but this makes the pattern a bit more difficult. This sort of pattern is especially useful in songs with a waltz-like feel, or any other songs in ¾ time. In those cases, the pattern works best with your thumb playing on the first beat of each measure, followed by two chords on the second and third beats. The easiest version of this pattern in 4/4 or another duple meter, is a thumb note on beats one and three while the fingers play the chord on beats two and four. As an exercise to develop this pattern, start by using your thumb on the open E bass string, and your index, middle, and ring fingers on the G, B, and E strings, respectively. You can use this open picking pattern anywhere that calls for an E minor chord, and give your left hand a break to turn a page, scratch your head, or whatever else it’s been too busy playing chords to do. Check out the basic patterns here, as well as some of the possible variations. Travis Picking Travis picking is one of the most popular categories of guitar fingerpicking. It’s named after the great country guitar player Merle Travis. If you’re not a country fan, don’t let that throw you off; if you don’t know who he is, make sure you check this guy out. Despite being named after , the term Travis picking has a slightly more narrow definition than the patterns that Merle used in his playing. In general, Merle only used his thumb and the index finger of his right hand, which is the easiest way to approach Travis Picking.Start by playing with your thumb and index finger at the same time, with at least two strings between the ones that you’re playing (i.e. play the fourth and first strings). After that, play your thumb on a higher string, and then your index finger on the next string. After that, move back to the outer strings and play with your thumb, followed by your index finger, and finally, another thumb note before repeating the pattern. ————————————- –2—————–2————— ————–2———————- ———-2—————-2——– –0————–0—————— ————————————- It may look a little confusing written down, but once you start to feel it under your hand, it makes a lot more sense. When I play patterns like this, I try to remind myself that I wasn’t blessed with athletic hands like Merle Travis. While I can play the whole pattern with just my thumb and index finger, using my middle finger on the highest note makes it more comfortable to play for an extended time. It also opens up a few more options, which I’ve demonstrated in the video below. Arpeggio Guitar Fingerpicking Arpeggio means playing the notes of a chord, one after another, moving in the same direction. For that reason, I will call these types of guitar fingerpicking patterns the arpeggio patterns. To start, set your hand up the same way you would for the “boom-chick” pattern, and start playing with just your thumb. Next, rather than playing the three fingers together, as we did before, we’ll play them in ascending order: index first, followed by the middle, and finally the ring finger. This basic pattern is really useful in the right type of song, and it’s easy to expand to fit different chords or time signatures. In fact, back in 1812, a famous guitarist published a list of 120 different versions of this type of pattern, all using only C and G7. The easiest ways to switch it up is to simply do it backward, starting with the highest note, or start with the thumb, and then play only the fingers in reverse order. Playing the original pattern, followed by the middle and then index fingers also make for a pleasant sound. Try changing the rhythm up in the middle of the arpeggio. Here’s a few options that you can try out yourself: The easiest way to switch it up is to simply do it backward, starting with the highest note, or start with your thumb, and then play only your fingers in reverse order. Playing the original pattern, followed by the middle and then index fingers also makes for a pleasant sound. Try changing the rhythm up in the middle of the arpeggio. Here’s a few options that you can try out yourself: As you can tell from the videos, once you’re comfortable with a few of the patterns, it’s easy to do impressive improvisations without having to think about scales, mode, or anything besides basic chord progressions. These guitar fingerpicking patterns are great if you’re ready to get more variety out of the chords you’ve been using. Try Add some spice to your songs by trying these patterns with songs you already know. If you have questions, ask your teacher or let us know in the comments below! Have fun, and get those right-hand fingers moving! Used with the express written permission of takelessons.com Take Lessons to learn Guitar ______________________________________________ Post Author: Kirk R. Kirk is a classical, bass, and acoustic guitar instructor in Denver, CO. He earned a bachelor’s of music in Guitar performance at The College-Conservatory of Music in Cincinnati and he is currently pursuing a masters degree in performance. Learn more about Kirk here! Image courtesy Kmeron
  17. 3 Simple Steps to Build the Perfect Drum Practice Routine by Alan S. You have to practice drums if you want to improve, but how can you make your practice time more productive? Here, Rosendale NY drum instructor Alan S. shares his strategy to help you create an effective drum practice routine… Progress does not always happen in a straight line. During my years playing drums, I’ve been through periods of quick improvement, as well as darker times of actually getting worse. I’ve also been through phases of staying at the same level: In my case, instead of a straight line, my progress looked more like a zig zig. After going in and out of these phases, I realized what I need to do to keep improving. I figured out a way to keep my practice time well balanced, simple but consistent, and most importantly, fun and fulfilling! To illustrate this, let’s compare a drum practice routine with a well-balanced meal… Building a Drum Practice Routine Vegetables You know vegetables are full of vitamins and nutrients, and you should eat them because they are good for you. Even though they’re not as desirable to eat as say, a slice of chocolate cake, you should still eat them to get the nutrients you need. With drumming, I like to think of the vegetables as the fundamentals. These are things like drum rudiments, site reading, and four-way coordination. Choose two to three of these vegetables to add to your plate, or drum practice routine. Although these things may seem tedious, doing them every day will keep your technique in check, and these skills will come out (sometimes unexpectedly) in everything else you do on the drums. Pick two or three of these “vegetables” to add to your practice routine: 7 Essential Drum Rudiments 8 Sight Reading Practice Tips for Drummers 11 Drum Exercises for Speed, Independence, and Control Protein Next, you’ll need to add some protein. In an average meal, proteins include things like fish, steak, pork, eggs, or tofu. When it comes to drum practice, your protein is the practice component with the most substance. What exactly do I mean by this? Well, unlike the vegetables, the protein is something that’s part of the big picture of what you want to accomplish on the drum set. I consider working towards goals such as learning the beat to a song, transcribing, or learning a famous drum solo to be proteins. Choose two out of three to fulfill your protein portion. Not sure which “proteins” to add to your drum practice? Here are some great ideas: Snare Drum Practice 15 Fun Drum Fills 16th-Note Drum Fills for Beginners Dessert Last but not least, everybody’s’ favorite: dessert. Translation for drummers: improvise! Never heard of improvising? Well, here’s a quick definition: “To create or perform spontaneously or without preparation”. In other words, let go of any constraints and let your mind and body explore the drum set freely. As you get better at improvising, you can start improvising over certain ostinato (repeated) patterns or exotic time signatures. Remember, if you don’t behave during dinner, you won’t get any dessert! Save the best for last: work on these things once you have completed the protein and vegetable portions of your drum practice: 3 Simple Steps to Create Powerful Drum Fills How to Develop Your Own Unique Drum Style 6 Easy Steps to Create Your Own Drum Cover Beginner Drum Tips For each food group, use the same set of exercises every day for a week, then switch to a different (slightly more advanced) set of exercises. If you get stuck, don’t fret. Try picking a slightly less challenging exercise, and master that. Learning drums takes time; patience and humility are key! Don’t expect to get better overnight. Increase your level gradually, step by step. It might not seem like you’re improving after a week or two, but that’s just because it’s a gradual process. After a few months, you’ll look back and be amazed at how far you’ve come! Used with the express written permission of takelessons.com Take Lessons to learn Drums __________________________________________________ Post Author: Alan S. Alan S. teaches drum lessons in Rosendale, NY. With a degree in jazz performance, he specializes in jazz, rock, Latin, fun, drum n’ bass, hip hop, Motown and pop drumming styles. Learn more about Alan here! Image courtesy Darrell Miller
  18. Professional Groove Production Station, or Just Another Toy? by Matthew Mann What It Is Circuit is more than just a drum box or controller. It features 4 different drum parts at any given time plus two different synthesizer modules. Each of the synth modules are derived from Novation’s own MiniNova. They’re also polyphonic (6 notes each) as opposed to monophonic, which was a nice surprise from a machine this size. Additionally, it features 32 RGB-backlit, velocity-sensitive pads for grid-based step sequencing with plenty of visual feedback. There are also real-time effects which can be tweaked live or recorded as part of a pattern/song. The drums themselves can be selected from dozens of different patches based on the best electronic drum sounds and then tweaked to sit perfectly in your track. What’s more, you can assign drum or synth sounds to a pattern and then change a sound from one pattern to the next for tons of variety in your song productions. We’ll get into that more in-depth later. Pandora’s Box Circuit ships in a nice box that includes a getting started guide, power supply (including adapters for other parts of the world), a USB cable for connecting to your computer, and some odd-looking 1/8” to MIDI breakout cables that plug into Circuit – allowing Circuit to control or be controlled by external MIDI gear. I’ve said before that a lot of initial impressions are down to presentation. I think Novation got it right here. I was pleased as soon as I took Circuit out of its box (which was sturdy and pretty nice in itself). Aside from the very nice packaging and additional goodies found in the box, the unit itself is very sturdy and has a gum rubberized surface that feels nice to the touch. It also minimizes the potential for it slipping out of sweaty hands. One thing to note: If you’re using Circuit with its built-in speaker, you need to set it on a flat surface (or on your legs with a gap between). The speaker is in the middle of Circuit’s underside and it’s easy to accidentally cover it and not be able to hear it. If you're planning to plug into the 1/4” outputs or use headphones in the 1/8” headphone jack, then it’s a non-issue. I just had to mention it because this box was born to be taken with you for composing on-the-go. Let’s take a look at Circuit’s layout. Black Betty Circuit measures in at 9.45” (240mm) wide x 7.87” (200mm) deep x 1.38” (35mm) high and weighs around 2 pounds, so it’s very easy to toss in a backpack and head to the beach or the park for some composing and beat-making fun. The layout is very intuitive. It starts with a volume knob at the top left. Next come 8 encoders that are surprisingly chunky feeling. These knobs do a lot depending on what function button is selected. There’s also a small LED just below each encoder that gets brighter the higher the value of that parameter is set. To the right of the encoders is a slightly larger knob labeled Filter. It is what it says it is: A filter. It filters the entire output of Circuit as either a Low Pass Filter (all the way to the left) or a High Pass Filter (all the way to the right). The main section of Circuit is the 4 x 8 grid of pads. Each pad is velocity sensitive and has an RGB light behind it. This is cool because you can see relative velocities on each pad. Additionally, different colors mean different things, so the visual feedback is great. I have to admit that the colors seem a bit extreme (at least the choice of colors), but they certainly get attention! To the left and right of the pads are function buttons that give you lots of options (especially combined with the SHIFT button). On the left side you can find the Scale, Note and Velocity buttons for step recording functions. Below them are Gate, Nudge and Length buttons for patterns functions. On the right side, you have the Patterns, Mixer, FX, Record and Play buttons. Again, each of these major function buttons has additional functions that are accessed by using SHIFT. There are 2 final rows of buttons on Circuit just below the rotary encoders and above the grid pads. The first row includes: Octave Up and Down buttons, Tempo, Swing, Clear, Duplicate, Save and Session…as well as the Shift button. Below this row are the “track” buttons. Let’s dig in to the different tracks and what they do. Initiate Sequence The sequencer in Circuit has 32 session locations for saving your projects. Each session contains 6 tracks (2 synths and 4 drum tracks). Each track has 8 pattern locations. This means each synth and drum part can have up to 8 variations. Do the math and you’ll see there is room for lots of musical options. There’s also an Auto-quantize Notes to Steps function and the ability to record automation to 6 events per step. Velocity and gate can be recorded and edited on a per-step basis. You can also duplicate steps, patterns and sessions in order to develop longer songs. Additionally, the sequencer includes a swing function so you can adjust the groove and “lay back” on it as much as your track needs. Synth You Asked The synths in Circuit sound excellent. Any experience with Novation’s Nova line of synths will tell you that. The sounds are seriously made for electronic dance music and have character by the bucket full. Each synth has a sidechain attached, which is controlled by Drum 1. This is handy for getting that “bounce” between your kick and bass or for getting some nice choppy pads. The sidechain contains 7 types of sidechain effect as well as the ability to turn it off completely. The top 16 pads are the ‘keyboard’ for inputting or playing notes and the bottom 16 are the steps of the sequence. In expanded view, you have access to all 32 pads as keys. This ‘keyboard’ allows the selection of different scales for experimenting in different keys. Above these pads are buttons for selecting the part to work with. For example, there are two buttons for each synth…one for selecting the synth patch (of which there are 64) and one for selecting the sidechain effect for that synth. Synth 1’s keys are color-coded in purple and Synth 2’s keys are in green. This shows great foresight, since this should help minimize accidental editing of the wrong synth when in the heat of programming. The bottom 2 rows of pads are the number of steps in the sequence (except in expanded view). There are 16 steps for patterns, but this can be edited for longer synth patterns. There are two ways to record in Circuit – real time or in step mode. Real time requires use of the Record button and step recording works as soon as the Play button is activated. The sounds are of the dance ilk and should provide plenty of options for Trance, Techno, Dubstep and numerous other electronic styles. Also, the rotary encoders become parameter adjustments for the synths. This is limited, but cool in that it allows you to edit basic parameters like filters and resonance. Novation calls them Macros and, as a rule, they follow a standard format as follows: • Macros 1 & 2: Oscillator Parameters • Macros 3 & 4: Envelope Parameters • Macros 5 & 6: Filter Parameters • Macros 7 & 8: Modulation & FX Parameters There are exceptions to this layout for certain synth patches, and Novation calls them Macros because they can control up to 4 parameters with one knob, so the best thing to do is just choose a patch and play with the knobs to see what they do. At the time of this writing, a Max for Live and stand-alone patch editor has become available for Circuit courtesy of Isotonik Studios (https://isotonikstudios.com/novation-x-isotonik/novation-circuit-editor). Patches can now be tweaked, saved as a single patch, saved as a bank of patches, uploaded to Circuit, or saved on your hard drive for later use. Hum Drum The drums in Circuit reside in the last 4 tracks. Clicking on Drum 1 or Drum 2 will bring up the bass drum and snare tracks at the same time. The first two rows of pads are the steps for the bass drum and the second two rows are for the snare drum (orange). Selecting the last two tracks (yellow) brings up the closed and open hi-hats by default. Although there are only four drums at any given time, the drum sounds for the individual tracks can change from pattern to pattern. Changing from a snare to, say, a clap from one pattern to the next can result in tracks that sound like there’s much more going on than there really is. This is where creative thought really comes in handy. The drum sounds are very usable and endlessly tweakable with pitch, decay, distortion, and filtering and effects to make them sit the way they should in a track. They feature everything from standard 808 and 909 sounds, to cheesy 8-bit blips and hits, to massive distorted anthemic monster drums. One of the coolest things about this setup is that parameter tweaks can be recorded with the pattern. For example, one of the most famous sounds from the 80’s was Prince’s use of the pitch knob on the Linn LM-1’s snare and stick sounds. This sound is most obvious in songs like”1999” and “Let’s Go Crazy” where the pitch modulates up and down and gives the track exciting movement beyond what was previously thought possible. It could even record these pitch movements. Well, Circuit can do this, too! You can sweep the pitch or filter or add effects in real time and record those movements into the pattern – giving the producer some fantastic options for unique sound. Butterfly Effects There are two send effects included in Circuit – Reverb and Delay. Neither of these effects is mind-boggling, but both are certainly useable. Each effect has several presets from which to choose (16 delay/8 reverb). The selected preset is backlit in white while the rest are dim. The send levels for each effect are controlled by the rotary encoders. Select a reverb patch and the encoders become send levels for reverb to each instrument – select a delay and suddenly the snare bounces all over the place. I like that you can send effects to each element of the drums rather than treating the whole kit. If I want a slightly roomy kit overall, I adjust the reverb for each instrument to taste. If I only want delay on the hi-hats or on the snare, I add the appropriate amount to those tracks only. As mentioned before, activating the RECORD button allows automation of the send levels for pattern-level clip effects. This is very cool because you could add a delay to the last open hi-hat of a pattern if you want or add reverb swells to the front of a pattern. Imagination is the only real limiting factor here. Play With It I could go on and on about all the features of this little beast, but I won’t. The real question is “Why do I want/need it?” The day Circuit arrived on my doorstep, my kids and I were home and we opened up the box. As soon as I turned it on, my 7 year old daughter’s face lit up almost as brightly as Circuit. She loved the colors (eyes rolling) and liked the sounds coming from Circuit as we tested each demo session…BUT…the magic really started while I was studiously reading the manual. My daughter asked me how to make sound. I selected a blank session and from there a blank pattern and showed her how to select a sound for each track and how to add steps in the pattern sequencer. A mere 10 minutes later, she had created a full track with drums, a squelchy, 303-style bass part, and a melody. A few minutes later and, with a little help from “Dad” and the manual, she had duplicated the patterns and made alternate versions of those patterns. Further exploration and she had chained the patterns together and had a full track – complete with effects and filters tastefully recorded into the patterns. Did I mention she’s only 7? The one thing I was surprised to find is that there are no bags or cases on offer to protect Circuit. It seems like an oversight to me since it’s obviously meant to be portable. Circuit is well built (as I mentioned before), but not indestructible. I really hope Novation comes up with a bag specifically for Circuit (or even a little case similar to the one the Roland PG200 came in), but there’s nothing at the moment, so it’s up to you to protect your investment yourself. One thing I almost forgot to mention is that Circuit can be used as a MIDI controller. Connected via MIDI to a hardware or software synth, it can play parts from its sequencer and control those synths. The MIDI data in a sequence can also be recorded into a DAW for further manipulation and assignment to a soft synth (or hardware). The one thing to note is that the MIDI notes for all tracks are recorded onto one MIDI track in your DAW unless you turn off the other parts and record them one at a time. There may be a way to assign different MIDI channels to the parts to separate them in your DAW, but I didn’t discover how to do this. Novation Circuit Editor from Isotonik Studios: Isotonik Studios, in collaboration with Novation, have released the free Novation Circuit Editor. This software package adds much flexibility to Circuit in the form of a full-fledged patch editor/librarian. While the user guide provides minimal information on its use, connecting Circuit to the software yields a window filled with editable parameters for the 2 synths built into Circuit. The layout is very logical and lends itself to experimentation. There are sections for assigning parameters to each macro control as well as sections for the synth engine controls and the modulation matrix. All parameters are available in separate tabs for each synth. The cool thing is that there are so many parameters available, that old school synth design (including synthetic drums) can be done on the screen. Remember when I talked about creative ways to add more drums to your production? Well, this is one of those ways. Create additional drums with Synth 1 and Synth 2 and save them in Circuit. Then, they can be stored in the pattern. Additionally, patches can be changed in Circuit, but they are still saved with the pattern, so new patches can be saved over original patches, but those original patches are still there….in any patterns already created. If you’re thinking of getting Circuit, make sure you get this application! It’s currently available in Max for Live and standalone version. It’s also available for Windows, Mac and Linux. The Bottom Line Don’t misunderstand, I’m not saying Circuit is a toy for kids. And with a list price sitting at around $449 and a street price around $349, it’s not something I would run out and buy for a kid (although the build quality was certainly rugged enough). The sound quality is very good. I found that most of the patches were inspiring and led me down creative pathways. I never felt like this was a toy in build or in sound quality. What I am saying, however, is if a 7 year old can create entire tracks on Circuit, then anyone can. Music creation is immediate and fun. The addition of MIDI I/O means you can integrate it into your studio and control outboard MIDI gear or sync Circuit to your DAW. Speaking of the computer – Circuit is not chained to it. Yes, you can record your MIDI tracks from Circuit to your DAW. Yes, you can use an outboard controller or DAW to control the sounds in Circuit. But, no, you do not need to have your computer handy to use Circuit. While Circuit comes with a 12V DC power supply (a feature that some companies have made an optional accessory for their controllers lately), it also runs on 6 x AA batteries. That means you can take Circuit to the park…or the zoo. That means you can take Circuit to a coffee shop or a museum. That means you can introduce Circuit to your friends at a party and Circuit will have plenty to say. I have to admit that I’m not a huge fan of groove boxes. I had drum machines back in the 80’s that worked in similar fashion - with pattern creation and duplication and chaining to make songs, but I typically prefer to program drum tracks in linear fashion in my DAW. With that said, I have had a lot of fun with Circuit. It’s been quite some time since I really thought about composition from a completely loop-based standpoint. And I didn’t have to troll through thousands of samples and loops on a computer screen. Circuit took me down some rabbit holes that I wouldn’t have ever thought about on my own. I may not have created what I intended to when I sat down with Circuit, but I ended up with the pieces that were nonetheless fun and interesting. My eyes have been opened to this grid-based music thing and, if Novation offers me Circuit for a good price (finger’s crossed), my kids and I will have lots more fun creating tunes in the future. Resources Novation Circuit ($449.99 MSRP, $329.99 "street") Novation Circuit product web page Novation Circuit Editor from Isotonik Studios You can purchase Novation Circuit from Sweetwater B&H Musician's Friend Guitar Center __________________________________________________ Matthew Mann (Editor, Studio-One Expert) graduated Berklee College of Music with a Master Certificate, Music Production. Matt has been in bands and run studios for over a decade. He had a 3 year stint as a Sales Associate at GC Pro and has more recently been working in technical writing. As the picture shows, Matt rarely takes himself too seriously.
  19. Guitar Chord Progression Theory — with Screencast by Bobby Kittleberger Understanding chord progression theory is more difficult than memorizing chords. Fair enough? I’d like to think so. Yet, chord progression theory can bring clarity and help make chord memorization much easier, if you take the time to learn it. Besides, you want to become a better music theorist, right? The good news: We can improve our chord vocabulary in the process of becoming better students of our instrument. We’ll do that by learning the basics of chord progression theory within a guitar context. To help us do so, this content is available in two parts: Textbook-Style Article (what you’re reading now) Premium Screencast Walkthrough The article is free of charge, as is all of our blog content. For screencast information, see the end of this article. Chords that Share the Same Key Guitar scale theory shows us that chords are grouped based on particular keys. In other words, every chord you play has its own key. For example, the key of E major has its own grouping of chords that fall within that key. They include the following: I ii iii IV V vi vii Emaj F#min G#min Amaj Bmaj C#min D#dim Emaj7 F#min7 G#min7 Amaj7 B7 C#min7 D#m7b5 From the chart below you can begin to identify different chord groupings which form what we would consider “common” guitar chord progressions: While this list is not comprehensive, the source does a good job of pooling easily recognized chord progressions from the key of E major. Common chord progressions within the key of E major:I – IV – V E – A – B I – vi – IV – V E – C#m – A – B ii – V – I F#m7 – B7 – Emaj7 Source: guitar-chords.org.uk Even if you’ve only spent a small amount of time with the guitar, you’ve likely played through the E, A, and B progression. The other two progressions listed, though slightly more advanced, are also easily recognizable. As we begin to see chords as members of a key, we can start memorizing common chord progressions and even learn to identify their keys on the fly. Further, we’ve established that part of the reason most chord progressions fit together is because all chords within that progression share the same key. And that key comes from a corresponding scale where, instead of single notes, you’re dealing with full chords where each chord’s root note represents a scale degree (more on that later). "Many chord progressions fit together (resonate) because they share a common key. However, not all chord progressions need to contain only chords that are found within the same key. Take the E, G and A progression, for example. Though this progression is commonly used, the G chord is not found within the listing of chords in the key of E major. Thus, as a guitar player, you can use chord progression keys as a starting point, but you need not rigidly adhere to them. Just note that many of the common chord progressions you’ll hear are drawn entirely out of a shared key. This is how an entire song can have its own key. It’s simply derived from the chord combination and resolving note. For example, if a song sounds resolved on the E note, and three of the four chords used are found in the key of E major, then it’s a safe bet to say that that song is in the key of E (more on resolving notes later). Lining Up Chords by the Root Note We need to couple our understanding of a chord’s key with some basic chord composition. Specifically, we’ll learn to identify a chord’s root note. There are several ways to explain root notes (also called the tonic) in plain English. We’ll look at two of them: The Root Position: Building on the Bass Note Tertian Harmonic Theory This sounds frightfully complex, but it’s not as difficult as it sounds. Let’s begin with a simple bass note. Learning to Identify the Bass Note of a Chord When a chord is in the root position, we understand a chord’s root note to be the lowest note in the chord. In other words, a chord is most often named after and represented by the lowest bass note. Thus, when you have a stack of vertical notes, as in the following tab, it’s reasonable to default to viewing the lowest of those notes as the root or “tonic” of the chord. Most of the time you’ll be right. This is probably the easiest and most straightforward way to understand root notes. However, it’s not always the case that you can simply look at the lowest note and find the chord’s tonic. If we consider the theory behind triads and inversions, it’ll become clear that we need to be more thorough. Briefly, let’s define a triad: Triads are chords made up of three notes stacked in third intervals. Because of these intervals, the order of notes in a triad can vary. For example, you can have three distinct arrangements of triadic chords, which are formally called voicings: Root Position First Inversion Second Inversion When a chord is arranged in either a first or second inversion, the lowest note in the chord no longer represents the root of that chord. Consider the following sheet: For all three chords, the notes are actually the same (C, E, and G). However, the root C is only the lowest note in the arrangement marked “Root Position.” Tertian harmonic theory can also be helpful when it comes to understanding this concept. Tertian Harmony and Triads In his book, Twentieth-Century Music Theory and Practice, Edward Pearsall gives Tertian harmony a lean, digestible definition: "A harmony consisting of thirds." And where have we seen this before? Right. The most ideal example of this is a triad. Pearsall continues: "Tertian chords include triads and sevenths But do not always function according to tonal protocol." In other words, there can be instances where you’ll have Tertian harmony but, without strictly triadic chords present. Yet in most cases, a triad will be the primary instance of Tertian harmony that you’ll need to be away of. Thus, it’s essentially the theoretical grid-work behind triadic chords. Recall our three triadic chord arrangements from earlier: Root Position First Inversion Second Inversion And if we translate each note: Root Position: C – E – G 1st Inversion: E – G – C 2nd Inversion: G – C – E Remember our diagram? These notes are a perfect match. In all three cases, the root of the chord is the C note but, in only one case is the C note the lowest in the chord. If there is a case where you need to find your root note and it’s not the lowest note in the chord, chances are that this is the theoretical concept you’re dealing with. The “Ghost” Note Another instance where the lowest note in a chord is not the root, is when you have a ghost or optional note. Take the following F chord: I’ve seen the F chord played this way pretty regularly, but that lowest note is a C and not an F. If we’re not careful, we’ll assume that note to be the chord’s root and mistakenly call it a C chord. The actual root note is the F on the fourth string. If you want to make things easier to visualize, simply add a ghost note – the F on the sixth string – which can be found at the first fret. In both tablature and sheet music, ghost notes are indicated by adding parenthesis on either side of the note. Omitting (or including) these notes does not impact any of the musical properties of your chord. It can just be a helpful tool to identify the tonic. Organizing your Roots and Building Chord Progressions We now know why chords are given a letter value and are able to quickly identify their root notes. Once we know the roots of our chords, it’s time to start forming progressions. If you’re a beginner, learning this for the first time, it’s crucial to write your progressions as simply as possible. My advice is to use your roots to build a raw bass line first. For example, let’s say we want to write a song in the key of G. To begin, look up the chords that fall within the key of G major: I ii iii IV V vi vii Gmaj Amin Bmin Cmaj Dmaj Emin F#dim Gmaj7 Amin7 Bmin7 Cmaj7 D7 Emin7 F#m7b5 Right away we can identify a number of workable progressions, the most obvious of which is G, C and D. Of course, yours could be more complex (different) but, we’ll use this as a simplistic example. Play through those root notes on your guitar. Start with a tab like this: E|-----------B|-----------G|-----------D|-----------A|-----3--5--E|--3-------- The root notes become the foundation of the chord progression you’re going to build. Now, let’s take a look at some options for making your own creative adjustments: Using open chords Power chords Minor chords Adding intervals (seventh chords for example) Rearranging the chords Introducing new chords into the progression These adjustments can be made at your discretion. You’ve done the work of finding a group of chords that you know will work together and you’ve written a bass line that will act as a foundation you can build on. While there’s no set approach from here on out, try asking yourself the following questions: Where would a minor chord sound good in this progression? Is it too short or slow? Do I need to add another chord? Would the chords create a better progression if they were arranged differently? Where should I intentionally use open, power, or barre chords? There are plenty of different directions you could go when forming a chord progression out of a bass line. So don’t get so caught up in process that your creative ideas go unimplemented. How do you “resolve” a chord progression? In music theory, the term resolve refers to the (somewhat) subjective idea of rest or stability. More specifically, resolve or “resolution” occurs when a note or chord moves from dissonance (an unstable or tense sound) to consonance (a sound with a stable sense of finality). Think of how you feel at the end of a song when it sounds “finished.” That’s what most musicians consider a resolving bass line or chord progression that brings the user to a sense of completion, allowing them to exhale and to know the song (or segment of a song) is over. It’s a necessary part of both creating and relieving tension within a piece of music. So, how do we make sure that our chord progression resolves and ends in consonance? The answer is simple: We go back to our root note. Fred Sokolow explains the key of a song and resolving, this way: A song’s key is a like a home base. Leaving the home base (the tonic chord, e.g., a C chord in the key of C) creates tension, and that tension is resolved when you return to the home base. The tonic chord often begins and ends the chorus. It’s always the chord that resolves the tune, the chord on which you end the song. Let’s say you have a song based on the chord progression we came up with in the key of G, playing through G, C, and D. For the sake of argument, let’s say the progression goes through the following tab: E|--------------B|--3--1--3--1--G|--0--0--2--0--D|--0--2--0--2--A|--x--3-----3--E|--3----------- This is our progression but, it’s not going to sound resolved if we stop on the C. It’ll leave the listener hanging. Besides, that’s probably not your instinct. What does your instinct tell you to do? “Go back to G.” This is a case where it’s best to listen to your ear and avoid over-thinking the process. You know that the progression is in the key of G, so make sure to start and finish the segment on the corresponding G chord. E|-----------------B|--3--1--3--1--3--G|--0--0--2--0--0--D|--0--2--0--2--0--A|--x--3-----3--x--E|--3-----------3-- As a side note, this is often where you’ll have what’s called a “walk-down” where you’ll hear several quick chords that decline into the resolving chord. In our G, C, and D example, a walk-down to the G might look something like this: E|--------------B|--1--1--2--3--G|--0--0--2--0--D|--2--x--2--0--A|--3--2--0--x--E|-----------3-- The root notes highlighted in red show the descending pattern ending in the root G. This is just a chord progression construction strategy that makes the resolving chord that much more explicit and final. Progressions Based on a Seven Note Scale So we know that every chord has a root, a key, and we know how to use those two properties to build bass lines which we can turn into a detailed progression. We even know a little bit about creating tension and resolving those progressions. However, we can also build our progressions out of a seven-note diatonic guitar scale, basing our arrangement on the seven scale degrees. Take the C major scale for example: C – D – E – F – G – A – B You can easily switch out a different scale, something like the E major if you prefer. Use of the C major scale is merely to provide a simple example, so feel free to substitute your scale of choice. In this case, we’re going to extract our root notes for each chord from the progression of notes in the C major scale by identifying and understanding each scale degree. How to Learn Scale Degrees The degrees of a scale are descriptors given to each note within that scale, going from left to right – one octave to the next. Those degrees are as follows: Tonic – Supertonic – Mediant – Subdominant – Dominant – Submediant – Leading Tone Thus, C would be your Tonic, D your Supertonic, E the Mediant, and it would continue in that order. But, how do we get from this to the roman numeral chord progressions we see in websites, books, and other music theory resources? We’ve all seen them: What do they mean? Those roman numerals are assigned to each degree and are used to more briefly and quickly indicate them, as opposed to writing them out. Once we match numerals with scale degrees, we can use the common chord progression diagram to create chord progressions directly from that scale. How to Use the Chord Progression Diagram The first thing we need to do is substitute our scale degrees for the proper roman numerals. So, this… Tonic – Supertonic – Mediant – Subdominant – Dominant – Submediant – Leading Tone becomes this: I – ii – iii – IV – V – vi – vii° Now we can introduce our circle diagram. To generate chord progressions, start with the root note, which is the I right before the arrow pointing to ANY. By following the chart we draw up a progression, step-by-step, that will adhere to the musical leanings of the C major scale. It involves no guesswork whatsoever. Here are the steps: Start at I and choose ANY second numeral. I’m going to vi From vi choose either ii or IV I choose IV From IV choose either V or vii° I choose V V resolves back to I which means our progression is complete. We have: I – vi – IV – V If we plug that back into our scale degrees, we get the following root notes for the chords in our progression: C – A – F – G. So now we have a bass line for our chord progression, we can apply the same creative variances that I mentioned earlier: Using open chords Power chords Minor chords Adding intervals (seventh chords for example) Rearranging the chords Introducing new chords into the progression Using this system, the line I – vi – IV – V can represent a chord progression in any key that simply adheres to the indicated scale degrees. It’s an easy way to write chord progressions without actually having to identify the exact chords you’ll want to use. Instead, we let the diagram do the heavy lifting for us, then we add our own creative touch. Why This Works For some, it might seem strange to come up with chord progressions this way. You might think, “How will I know that it sounds good?” The reason this works is that chord progressions, especially within a particular genre of music, are almost always highly reused. In other words, there aren’t a lot of them and they typically just get recycled through different songs. It’s the rhythm and melody that provide most of the variety in music. So, agonizing over chord progression arrangement isn’t necessary to write a fantastic-sounding piece of music. We can use theory elements like the chord progression diagram to come up with progressions quickly, giving us to the aspects of music that afford more creative engagement. Have thoughts or questions? You can get in touch via email, or you can hit us up via Twitter and Facebook. Works Cited Mathematics and Music: Composition, Perception and Performance: by James S. Walker and Gary W. Don | Google Books GuitarChords.org.uk: guitar-chords.org.uk Slide Guitar for the Rock Guitarist: by Fred Sokolow | Google Books Twentieth-Century Music Theory and Practice: by Edward Pearsall | Google Books Mini Music Guides: Piano Chord Dictionary: by Alfred Music | Google Books Graphics Courtesy of FreePik.com Flickr Commons Image Courtesy of Kmeron Used with the express written permission of Guitar Chalk __________________________________________________________________ Bobby Kittleberger is Guitar Chalk's founder, CEO and a staff writer for Guitar Tricks. You can hit him up on Twitter or shoot him an email to get in touch. _______________________________________________________________ Chord Progression Theory Screencast Walkthrough Learn the chord progression theory that most directly applies to the guitar. The screencast walkthrough includes roughly 55 minutes of instructional, classroom-style content. This can be purchased via our online store. One-Time Fee: $19 COURSE INCLUDES: Video Presentation: A screencast with verbal and visual explanation. Audio Presentation: Discussion that expands on the article. Lesson Outline: Downloadable PDF of screencast outline, ideal for review or for teaching content to others. WHAT IT COVERS: How and why chord progressions fit together. How to group chords and resolve progressions. How to always know what key you’re playing in. How to know what chords are in a key. How to scales and chord progressions are connected. How to use the chord progression diagram. Screencast Preview DOWNLOAD FULL How is the video course delivered? Instantly. Your class is delivered immediately after purchase via email. What is the format? Lessons are given via video broadcast of a classroom-style presentation. _______________________________
  20. The foundation of most songs is vocals - so set up your vocal chain right By Ken Lewis (founder, AudioSchoolOnline.com) I’ve been very fortunate to have recorded and mixed some of the most brilliant singers on the planet over the past 20+ years. But while a great vocal is forever, technology changes constantly. Vocal mixing techniques have evolved radically in the age of DAWs and plug-ins, and the techniques I and other engineers use have adapted accordingly. This article will get you started, and provide the “meat and potatoes” basics of vocal mixing by describing the vocal chain. WHAT IS THE VOCAL CHAIN? When mixing any given vocal, I typically use compression, EQ, and De-Essing as my core treatments. Then I’ll add effects—or not—depending on the needs of the song. COMPRESSION – WHEN, HOW, WHY? Compression controls dynamics, and lessens the need for fader automation, so your vocal never gets too loud above the music or sinks too low into it. Start with a ratio of 2:1 or 4:1, medium to fast attack time, and a medium to fast release. While observing the compressor’s gain reduction meter (as opposed to monitoring the input or output), lower the compressor’s threshold until you see very little to no gain reduction when the vocalist is singing softer, while making sure that the compressor isn’t clamping down too hard on the most powerful notes—you don’t want to end up with the loud parts quiet and the soft parts loud. A compressor’s gain reduction meter indicates how much compression is being applied by showing how many dB of gain reduction was applied to the signal Put the compressor first in your vocal chain unless the voice is really muddy or bass heavy. That way any equalization will affect the compressed sound; compression after EQ will “undo” some of the effects of equalization. However, note that bass frequencies can really push a compressor—so if you plan to remove some of that low end or muddiness, you might EQ first and then compress. EQ – LESS IS USUALLY MORE First time I saw a real Pultec EQ, I thought “this must sound horrible, it barely has any knobs.” Then I learned. Usually you don’t need a 6-band parametric EQ to sculpt a voice. You’re looking for the frequencies that bring out the enunciation and clarity in a voice—often in the 2k-5k range. High frequencies will help with clarity, but I find that lower mids are important for the perceived size of the voice. Use a tight notch on a parametric EQ to locate and remove real trouble spots, then enhance the voice making it present, clear, and big! Don’t overdo it, a little often goes a long way. DE-ESSING, YOUR SECRET WEAPON Proper use of de-essing often separates an unlistenable vocal from a professionally polished voice, canceling out the “sibilance” or “esss” sounds. If you hear S’s and T’s that feel like they are cutting through your ear drums, you need a de-esser. Try affecting only frequencies from 6k and higher. Set your detection to reduce and control your sibilance, but be careful. If you overdue it, you will make the singer sound like they have a lisp. De-essing acts very much like frequency-selective compression to reduce only “s” sounds Usually I place the de-esser last in the vocal chain because compression and limiting tend to increase the loudness of your sibilance. However, if I’m mixing a voice that is noticeably too essey before I treat it, I’ll knock it down first with a de-esser and possibly still add another de-esser at the end of the vocal chain if compression has brought the sibilance too far in front. EFFECTS – TASTE IS EVERYTHING Effects are the crutch and Achilles heel of inexperienced mixers. Don’t overdo it, but hey, if the song calls for a big washy reverb, go for it! Effects help you place the voice into the space and mood you’re trying to create. Keeping a voice dry or very slightly effected will bring the voice to the front of your speakers and keep it clear. As you increase reverb, delay, chorus and other effects, you push the voice into the world you are creating. Reverb can create an environment for vocals that gives a sense of acoustic space as well as context Be careful that you can still understand every lyric as you process the lead vocal. If you want a more dramatic / cinematic / moody vocal, you’ll often reach for longer reverbs, stereo delays, etc. If you think you might be doing too much, it's a good idea to walk away for 15 minutes, clear your head, take a break, and listen again with fresh ears. This simple practice can often uncover any flaws in the mix that you may have overlooked. THE VOCAL CHAIN CHECKLIST Remember that it takes time and experience to master these techniques. If mixing was easy, I would have been out of a job years ago. If you’re inexperienced, make a mental checklist of your vocal sound. Can I understand each lyric? Is the voice clear and present? Are my effects washing out the voice or enhancing it? Do the esses and t’s hurt my ears? Am I de-essing too much? Does the voice ever overpower the music? (sound like karaoke?) Does the voice ever disappear too far into the music? Remember that people connect with a song through a great vocal performance and lyrics. Make sure you are enhancing these and that what you do supports the vocals, the performance, and the expressiveness—all of those will matter much more to the listener than what plug-ins you used. Vocal mixing can be frustrating, but stick with it and practice. Even the experts were beginners at one time, but they became experts through practice, experience, and being sensitive to the needs of the artist. If you want to delve deeper into pop and urban lead vocal mixing, I’ve created a complete online lesson that expands on the general information given here. ____________________________________________________ Ken Lewis’s credits as a producer/songwriter/mix engineer/musician include 76 gold and 78 platinum albums and singles, as well as 60 #1 hits. His client list consists of artists like Kanye West, Alicia Keys, Bruno Mars, Ariana Grande, Eminem, Fun, Mariah Cary, John Legend, David Byrne, Lana Del Rey, and many more. ____________________________________________________ Ken founded AudioSchoolOnline.com to teach others the art of making records. The site offers video tutorials on vocals, mixing, production, amp sims, keyboards, and various other topics. There’s also a blog, the opportunity to sign up for a newsletter announcing new lessons, the option to create lesson bundles, and more.
  21. Perils of Traveling with Your Guitar by George Dunbar Traveling with a guitar can be a nightmare - trust us, we know. There’s a whole plethora of things that could go wrong; the headstock could break, strings may snap and, in the case of Bryan Adams, staff may just decide to write all over it. The most common causes of damage to your guitar are: Maltreatment during loading and unloading the plane. From a slight bump to an almighty drop, your guitar could be in grave danger. The glue or woodwork of the guitar may become damaged due to the massive amount of pressure and low temperatures in the cargo hold. Your guitar may be damaged on the conveyer belt whilst been put on or taken off the plane. To add to your troubles, airlines often don’t highlight their rules regarding instruments on board the craft. This leads to the all important question, where do you store your beloved Gibson or Fender? On your knee? In the hold? In its own seat? Well fear no more. Here’s our comprehensive guide to the rules and regulations regarding instruments on board Europe’s major airlines. Used with the express written permission of The Flight Case Company ___________________________________________ George Dunbar is a specialist in the protection of audio visual equipment and works for The Flight Case Company. A passionate guitarist with over 15 years of playing experience, he strives to find the very best solutions for the transportation of musical equipment. When he's not in the office he can be found sky diving, marathon running and volunteering abroad. Learn more about George’s work here.
  22. Improve Your Guitar Tone Without Buying New Gear — Want better guitar tone without spending hundreds of dollars on new gear? Guitar teacher Ben M. shares how you can use the settings already on your electric guitar to drastically improve your sound… — by Ben M. When it comes to the electric guitar, players can be relentlessly dedicated to achieving the perfect guitar tone. Guitar tone (also called guitar sound) is most simply defined as the sound your guitar produces. Guitar tone can be compared to a painting; it is a masterpiece that results from blending different colors together. In this case your colors are bass, treble, mids, your amplifier, and any effects a guitarist may use. Guitarists pride themselves on their tone because it is what sets them apart as an artist and gives them their own unique sound. But don’t be fooled by this brief definition, guitar players can spend countless hours, days, and even weeks carefully sculpting their ideal tone. However, the good news is that guitar tone is in fact 100% personal and every player, no matter how experienced, has the ability to dial in great guitar tone without spending a fortune on fancy gear (though it is important to have the essentials). This article focuses on simple ways to improve your tone by simply using all the built-in features your electric guitar already has. First Steps to Improve Your Guitar Tone When beginning to work on improving your tone it is important to ask yourself a few basic questions: – What aspects of my current tone do I like? – What aspects do I dislike? (too dark, too bright, etc) – Based on my playing style and genre, what aspects of my playing do I want to highlight in my tone (for example: sparkling chords, thick power chords, or clear solo bends) After analyzing what you’ve discovered, set a goal. Maybe you are trying to imitate your favorite guitar idol’s tone or want to focus on creating your own sound. Regardless of what your goal is, an important thing to keep in mind (especially for beginners) is to always start with what you have. How to Use Your Guitar Tone Settings While many players may rush to their local music store and walk out with a handful of effects pedals or even a new amp, most players tend to forget one of the most basic aspects of their guitar’s anatomy; the pickup selector switch and the tone and volume control knobs. Below is a quick breakdown of an electric guitar’s tone settings: Pickup Selector Switch Selects which pickup is active on your guitar. Most guitars have three switch positions; some guitars like Fender Stratocasters have five. Bridge Pickup (farthest down): bright, sparkling sound, lots of treble Middle Position: warm and shimmery sound, high mids Neck Pickup (farthest up): full and rounded sound, more bass Volume Control Controls the master volume of your guitar, or the amount of signal that will come out of your amplifier. Tone Control Controls the brightness or darkness of your guitar’s sound by adding or reducing the amount of bass/treble in the signal. Bass = darker tone with lots of low end. Treble = brighter tone with lots of high end and sparkle. How to Adjust Your Guitar Knobs for Better Guitar Tone Now that we have established the basics, let’s focus on learning how to use the guitar knobs. Players of all levels continue to leave their controls dialed up to 10 all the time, restricting them from loads of undiscovered tone possibilities. To make a comparison, that’s like buying a sports car and only driving it only in first gear. A simple concept that can really help develop a guitar player’s control over their tone is getting into the habit of setting your tones with the volume and tone controls below their maximum levels. When you dial in your tone with the knobs at 10, you have limited adjustment options. Only being able to turn down the knobs will typically make your sound muddy. By giving the controls room to expand, you have an array of possibilities if your tone needs adjusting. Below are common ways to use your guitar controls and bring up your guitar playing IQ. Guitar Knob Techniques Basic Boost: The volume knob can act as a boost which can take your guitar from clean sounds for rhythm playing to dirty overdrive tones for soloing. When playing a song keep your volume knob at 6 or 7 when playing chords or verse parts and when it’s time to deliver a rockin’ solo roll up the volume to 10 and you will not only hear a boost of gain (overdrive) but also a volume lift over any other instruments in the song. Signal Clean Up: Perhaps your tone is too distorted and you want to reduce the harshness and clean up the signal without changing your amp/effects settings. Simply roll off the volume knob on your guitar a bit and the signal will clean up rather effectively. Buzz Killer: How many players have cringed at the level of buzz coming out of your amp? Guitar buzz is commonly caused by poor grounding in your guitar’s electronics and usually requires repairing. But as a quick fix, turning down the volume knob until the hum is quelled can make your guitar sound more pleasing to the ear. Set Polisher: If you are in a band, always turn the volume knob down while on stage in between songs to avoid buzz. This makes your set seem much more polished and professional. Volume Sweller: A more advanced technique with the volume knob is called swelling. Play a chord or note with the volume knob off and gently roll it back (many players use their pinky on the side of the knob) to let the sound pass through again. Experiment rolling up the knob fast or slow and see what happens. This takes practice but can produce awesome sounds when used while playing. Guitar Tone Control Techniques Tone Warmer: Keeping the tone knob around 9 or 10 is best for warm tones like Led Zeppelin or Jimi Hendrix type sounds. This means the guitar signal has lots of treble making the high ends of the signal sparkle. Tone Darkening: Roll back the tone knob for darker sounding tones like Sunshine of Your Love by Cream or the wholesome solo tone from American Woman by The Guess Who. This setting brings out the bass or low end in the signal. Onboard Wah-Wah: A more advanced tip with tone control is using the tone knob as an onboard wah-wah effect. In essence a wah-wah pedal is just a giant tone control adding treble when pressed down and adding bass when pulled back. You can emulate this effect by playing a chord or note and twisting the tone control rapidly, or slowly, from its maximum level to minimum level (much like volume swelling.) This requires practice and technique but you can get great wah-wah sounds without buying the pedal itself. After reading this article, hopefully you can understand why improving your guitar tone is vital to developing as a player and that there are endless sonic possibilities at your disposal already. Experiment with some of the techniques from this article and find what kind of sounds are most pleasing to your ear. Mastering a guitar’s controls, like playing the guitar itself, takes time so be persistent. Having a solid understanding of the most basic tone tools will not only boost your guitar playing IQ, but also push you in the direction of guitar tone paradise. Used with the express written permission of takelessons.com Take Lessons to learn Guitar _______________________________________________ Author: Ben M. is a student at Saint Joseph’s University and has nearly 10 years of guitar playing experience. He specializes in beginner and intermediate guitar playing, blues guitar, and guitar repair. Learn more about Ben here!
  23. Editor's note: We feel the issue being raised in this editorial by Paul White is of crucial importance to the music industry, so it is being is reprinted with the express written consent of our friends at Sound on Sound magazine. For more information on Sound on Sound, including access to their free articles and subscription rates, please visit www.soundonsound.com. by Paul White Ever since audio recording was invented the recordings themselves have been tied to a physical format that, despite its physical failings, has given us some kind of psychological reassurance in the longevity of those recordings. Obviously, those formats have changed over the 120 years or so that have elapsed since the technology was first explored, evolving through wax cylinders, shellac discs, magnetic wire recorders, vinyl discs, magnetic tape and finally into optical discs such as the audio CD. What these formats had in common was that they all included a mechanical component that rotated, but more importantly, they were formats specifically designed for the storage of audio. Now it looks like the audio CD is likely to be the last audio-specific format — and that market has been in decline for some time following the so-called download revolution. It seems as though even the ability to produce our own CDs at home is under threat. Clearly companies such as Apple have an agenda in trying to push us towards their own music download paradigm as they’ve now dropped optical disc player/writers from virtually all their new machines, but at least you can still buy an external USB optical drive if you still want to burn a CD — for now, anyway! Over the past few years, various companies have been dropping out of the optical drive manufacturing market and it looks as though the world leader in optical drive manufacture, Taiyo Yuden, will cease production later in 2015. We should ask ourselves what this means for audio, as once the audio CD slips into obscurity, for the first time in the history of recording, audio will have no dedicated format of its own. Sure, you can save audio as WAV files or MP3s onto generic data devices either on local storage or somebody’s cloud, but many of my clients still want to take away a CD they can hold in their hand. Audio is important, so doesn’t it deserve a format that can be used to archive it in a way that can be replayed by future generations? We all know how fickle the computer market is: it doesn’t seem to care about much other than its own profit margins, and formats and standards can be consigned to history in the blink of a board meeting. In the continual battle to force users to upgrade, concerns over long-term data preservation seem to have been brushed aside — and now that our last true audio format, the audio CD, faces extinction, any future audio will exist only as generic data with all the perils that entails. Does that worry me in any way? Yup! Used with the express written permission of Sound on Sound ________________________________________________ Paul White is the Editor in Chief at Sound On Sound Magazine, headquartered in the United Kingdom. He has also written technical articles about studio recording for various other magazines, and was first published professionally in 1984. As an electronics engineer and musician turned technical writer, he says: "My specialty is thinking outside the box...and then forgetting where I put the box!"
  24. by Christian Wissmuller Lee Oskar - Harmonicas Breaking Barriers Harmonica players within pop and rock music are often a somewhat anonymous bunch, so far as "name recognition" by the general public goes. Unfair, no doubt, but - generally speaking — true. I'm not talking about singers who also "play harmonica" occasionally (apologies to Mick Jagger, Steven Tyler, Rober Plant, Shakira, Rivers Cuomo, et cetera), but about actual, accomplished harmonicists. A select few practitioners of the instrument, however, have managed to achieve widespread recognition for their talents and achievements, including (among others) the likes of Magic Dick, John Poper, and Lee Oskar. Oskar initially gained real fame as the founding member of War, Eric Burdon's first significant post-Animals project, with his virtuosic playing becoming a signature element of the band's sound. Solo projects and other collaborations have kept him in demand as a player and recording artist through to the present day. In 1983, Oskar launched Lee Oskar Harmonicas (LOH), offering instruments in a variety of tunings and applicable to any number of styles. 2015 has seen a number of significant developments at the company and MMR recently sat down with Lee to get the story ... "The Music Is The Music" There's a lot going on over at Lee Oskar Enterprises these days. Let's start by talking about the new Quick Start Kits. Lee Oskar: The main catalyst behind the Lee Oskar Quick Start Kits was to help musicians of all kinds, styles and genres better understand the broad capabilities of the harmonica as a versitile instrument and to make it easy and natural for them to incorporate harmonicas into their music to embrace their artisitry and variety. While Lee Oskar harmonicas have been on the market for more than 30 years, for many years the harmonica has been primarily associated with blues and folks music. Musicians who fell in love with these styles would pick up a harmonica to play, and frequently would choose a Lee Oskar Harmonica because of its quality. Because people do not typically hear harmonica playing in other kinds of genres, they often do not realize that harmonica playing can belong in any kind of music. I don't think instruments have anything to do with genres. The music is the music. With our Lee Oskar Harmonica Quick Start system, we are trying to break these outdated images and barriers. So, we have created a product to promote our products, which are the LOH Quick Start Kits and our educational website, which supports the Lee Oskar Quick Guide system. We are marketing our LOH Quick Start Kits to musicians of all kinds, including guitar and ukulele players, singer-songwriters, and other kinds of instrumentalists in the future, as well as the general public. Through our website we help people see that it's just easy to play a major diatonic as it is for other tunings which create all kinds of music. The new site, leeoskarquickguide.com, also provides a wealth of resources for players — video tutorials, troubleshooting and maintenance tips, charts, and so on. When did the site launch and how long did it take to prepare? The LOH Quick Guide website was developed in 2012, and has been evolving ever since to make it as informative and user-friendly as possible. We have set this up as an educational website, separate from Lee Oskar Harmonicas. This site is mirrored in different languages, so that musicians from many countries can benefit from these resources, geared for different kinds of instrumentalists. Can you talk a bit about your online educational community, as well? How can folks register, what benefits do they receive? Our online educational community currently includes a few thousand people registered from the USA and other countries such as the UK, France, Italy, and Canada. Slowly but surely, we are building out our site for all territories where LOH are distributed. We have a very easy registration process, which simply asks for basic information and allows you to choose a username and password. By creating an online profile, you gain more access to the educational tools that have been created. Once you're logged in, you can pick and choose from various educational resources we offer that are geared for guitar, ukulele and piano players. In the future, we will also connect other instruments with the harmonica, providing easy-to-follow instructions. We encourage people to check back with us from time to time as we add new resources to the website on a regular basis. You've been working with Tombo for over 30 years now. What is the present-day arrangement between Lee Oskar Harmonicas and Tombo Mfg. of Japan? What's your current U.S. and International distribution network? Tombo is a world-class manufactuerer that has survived four generations of making harmonicas. They are very dedicated to manufacturing the best harmonicas in the world with their superb quality and expertise. I had first connected with the Mano family in the late '70s, a few years prior to launching LOH in 1983. We had many collaborative meetings in Japan, and discussed different ideas and designs. We came to an agreement, (all by handshake) to set up manufacturing of Lee Oskar Harmonicas. We've had a very rewarding relationship for 33 years. I am very honored to have done business with them for all these years creating our top quality harmonicas, which has earned me a place in their long family history of making harps. Lee Oskar enterprises is the exclusive distributor for Tombo in America. As for our current distribution network, we designate in each country a different distributor, including: KMC Music, a division of Jam in the USA, whichs sells to various distributors: B &J, another division of Jam in Canada: Bryer Music in Argentina: and various distributors in Europe which are listed on the website. Our policy is that we support our distributors only and do not sell directly to retail stores or to consumers. Our distributors sell to retail stores. Any other new or upcoming products on the horizon that you'd like to talk about? We are continuously thinking about different spins on products to promote our products. We are planning on coming out with a beautiful, innovative design for a new chromatic harmonica later this year. In addition, we are going to introduce Lee Oskar Tremolo harps with double reeds, which we are very excited about since Tombo makes the world's best tremolo harmonicas. What are your expectations for the remainder of 2015 — both for LOH and the industry, as a whole? My vision is that I see the market growing, with the music world using harmonicas more and more as people grow in their understanding of how the various tunings work so beautifully for differnent genres of music. With our marketing campaigns, we feel like we are going to get those seeds flowering, leading to a greater market share. On the whole, I see the musical world coming back to using acoustic instruments like harmonic and guitar, now with more and more singer-songwriters producing beautiful songs and music using banjos, harmonica, and guitar. This is an excellent time right now, when a product like ours can step it up and create better music. MMR Reprinted with the express written permission of MMR Magazine (Musical Merchandise Review) ____________________________________________ Christian Wissmuller is an editor and journalist with substantial experience in all aspects of both print and online media. Focus on music/musicians (entertainment), musical instruments (MI) industry, and music education. Considerable freelance portfolio including traditional news reporting (daily and weekly newspapers), as well as one-off annual corporate publications (Zildjian Z-Time), website copywriting, and video game copywriting (Guitar Hero and Guitar Hero II). He is the Executive Editor for Timeless Communications for Musical Merchandise Review (MMR), School Band and Orchestra (SBO), Choral Director (CD), JAZZed, Music Parents America (MPA), and College Search Guide.
  25. “World’s Biggest Audition” Searches for Vocalists for New Project featuring Stewart Copeland and Brian Hardgroove It’s not every day you get to audition for a superstar rhythm section, but that’s exactly what’s happening with the World’s Biggest Audition project that involves Harmony Central and WholeWorldBand.com. Joined by Grammy-winning guitarist Larry Mitchell, the new project Audio Rhythm Theory, featuring Police drummer Stewart Copeland and Public Enemy bassist/bandleader Brian Hardgroove, is on a search for vocalists from around the world—and relying on the internet to find them. Vocalists can audition on video by singing to tracks uploaded by Audio Rhythm Theory to WholeWorldBand.com, the online music video creation platform. To participate, simply download the free Whole World Band app from wholeworldband.com or from the Apple App Store. Meanwhile, Hardgroove’s Signature Forum right here on HarmonyCentral.com will be the epicenter for tracking the audition, by collecting all the final videos and Hardgroove’s commentary in one place. Part of this project’s object is to go beyond English-speaking singers and rappers, and the only practical way to do that is via the internet. The audition runs through December 31, 2015, with a presentation planned for the Winter NAMM (National Association of Music Merchants) show in Anaheim, California in January 2016. It’s all very exciting, and a little scary, to be working on the net “without a net.” Nothing like this has ever been tried before, and we have no idea what to expect. So who knows? Fame and fortune might be awaiting you with an exciting new musical project. All you need to do is show Stewart and Brian what you can do—so, what are you waiting for? Go to wholeworldband.com, and upload your audition. About the Participants Stewart Copeland has spent three decades as a rock star, acclaimed film score writer, and composer in the disparate worlds of opera, ballet, world music and chamber music. Stewart formed The Police in 1977 by recruiting Sting and Andy Summers, and also spent twenty years as a successful film and TV composer working for the likes of Francis Ford Coppola on Rumblefish and Oliver Stone on Wall Street. Awards include The Chevalier of the Order of Arts & Letters (France), five Grammys, and induction into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. (Photo credit: Maria Shriver) Record producer and multi-instrumentalist Hardgroove is on hiatus from the legendary hip-hop group Public Enemy. His productions include the extraordinary talents of Chuck D (Public Enemy), Steven Tyler & Joe Perry (Aerosmith), Burning Spear, Marc Anthony, Supertramp and The Fine Arts Militia. Hardgroove’s most cherished works to date are his production of two of China’s premier punk rock bands, Demerit and Brain Failure, as well as the forthcoming solo record from Fred Schneider of the B52’s. (Photo credit: Nisalaonline.com) Larry Mitchell is a Grammy award-winning producer, engineer and performer who has toured the world playing guitar with well-known artists including Tracy Chapman, Billy Squier, Ric Ocasek and Miguel Bosé. In his original compositions, Larry weaves guitar textures that showcase his virtuosity as a solo artist and ensemble player. WholeWorldBand is an easy-to-use free app for iPhone, iPad, Windows, and MacOS computers that allows musicians and fans around the world to create and share collaborative music videos. Musicians using the platform include Ronnie Wood (Rolling Stones), Stewart Copeland (The Police), Within Temptation, David Gray, Michael Bublé, Phil Manzanera (Roxy Music), Taylor Hawkins (Foo Fighters), and many more. www.wholeworldband.com Audio specialist Sennheiser, the project’s primary sponsor, is one of the world’s leading manufacturers of headphones, microphones and wireless transmission systems. Based in Wedemark near Hanover, Germany, Sennheiser operates its own production facilities in Germany, Ireland and the USA and is active in more than 50 countries. Sennheiser is a family-owned company that was founded in 1945 and which today has 2,700 employees around the world that share a passion for audio technology. In 2014, the Sennheiser Group had sales totalling €635 million. www.sennheiser.com _______________________________________________________________ HERE'S HOW TO AUDITION Harmony Central Official Participation Thread ________________________________________________________ Additional Press: http://www.billboard.com/articles/news/6706837/public-enemy-brian-hardgroove-worlds-biggest-audition _______________________________________________________ Sponsors:
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