where02190

Well you can't because you cannot play 24 bit files from your ipod, except through itunes. If yu try to play them from the ipod in stand alone 9read not connected to the computer and playing through itunes) the ipod will lock up and require a hard reboot. 1) Do u have iTunes on ur studio pc/mac? All Mac here. 2) What's T2? Mackie Tracktion T2, sorry. 3) How do you connect your iPod to your car stereo - through tape convertor? FM car dock. However this has nothing to do with the issue, it does it if you are simply listening through headphones also.

I posted this in the Mac forum, but since it's not a frequently visited forum, I thought it might be helpful posted here. I discovered this one by sheer accident. Exporting unmastered mixes from my DAW (T2) to iTunes for subsequent transfer to the iPod to check in the car. I accidentally exported them as 24 bit/44.1k .wav files rather than 16 bit, however iTunes was most happy to play them, and the iPod most happy to as well, however only through iTunes. When I connected the iPod in the car and attempted to play the files, the iPod locked up and needed to be hard reset. replaced them with 16 bit versions and all was well. Go figure. What I find strange is that, when connected to my computer, the files can be played from the iPod fine. Apparantly while iTunes is capable of understanding the 24 bit format, the iPod in stand alone mode is not.

You can easily match mics when buying them. Plug both into a console you can solo with headphones. Set the mics exactly next to eachother. they don't even need to be on stands, you can lay them on a table or chair, so long as the mics are side by side, even touching. Pan both mics center, and put one out of phase. What you hear is the difference in the two mics. Find a pair that you hear nothing, or very close to it, and you've got a well matched pair.

I'd say try to increase your budget a bit and get a used AKG C414B-ULS. they go for $400-500, and are awesome. If I had to pick one mic forever, that would be it.

I personally love the NT5's for overheads- they are "big" sounding without being overbearing. One mans gold is another's tin, personally I wouldn't (and didn't) take the gift of an NT-5 or it's stereo cousin the NT-4. I beta tested them, and they sounded so aweful I sent them back for another set, thinking they had to be defective, but alas the replacement ones sounded exactly the same through a variety of mic pres and converters, thin and brittle, with nothing usable below 100hz, and painfully bright between 2.5-8k, so much so they hurt to listen to even at low volumes. Check to see if the Oktavias are russian or chinese made. If they are the russian ones, buy every last one, that's a steal, and they are incredible mics. If they are the chinese ones, while still a good price, don't expect them to be that fantastic. In either case, listen to every one before buying. Oktavias weak point is quality control. Some will sound remarkably better than others. If you're looking to get a pair, use this simple trick to check for a decently matched set. Plug two into a console, put the mics side by side, even on a table or whatever is fine, but so they are physically touching, and the front of the mics are perfectly lined up. Now, with gains set identical, solo both mics, and flip the phase on one. Ideally, you should now hear nothing. The less you hear, the better they are matched.

Originally posted by MrKnobs Then it's a very big deal that can be fixed with two fifty cent resistors or an $3 attenuator cord from Radio Shack. Terry D. Sure if you don't care about the quality of the audio.

iTunes. Good and free.

Regarding -10dB vs +4dB: This is just not a big deal from your perspective. The only thing that makes it a big deal in this case (if indeed this is what your problem is) is that you have a signal mismatch between the output of your AudioBuddy and the input of your computer soundcard. And the reson why the poster has a mismatch is because the pre out is +4 while the soundcard in is -10. It is a very big deal, it is the "deal". With a +4dbu input sensitivity soundcard there is no issue.

Any upgrade is going to be better than a stock computer soundcard that is -10dbV sensitivity. At least you won't be overloading the input to the converters with your preamps +4dbu output level.

Or less formally(and incorrectly), could mean 'unbalanced'. Not necessarily. Many pro units that are balanced i/o also have switchable sensitivity, but switching the sensitivity doesn't change the balanced circuit to unbalanced.

and input's an input Do a search on +4dbu vs -10dbV, and you'll learn quickly this is absolutely false.

Be sure you're plugged into the line input of your sound card rather than the mic input, of course. Consumer audio card line inputs are typically -10dbV, the output of the Audiobuddy is +4dbu. Consumer sound cards cannot handle +4dbu levels, they will overload and distort.

+4/-10 refers to input sensitivity. Consumer devices, like home stereos, your sound card, etc, have a -10dbV sensitivity, whereas pro gear will either be switchable or be +4dbu. the difference between the two is about 11db, pretty significant. If your preamp, which you're already running pretty hot, has a +4 output, and you plug it into that -10 soundcard, it's going to overload the inputs of the soundcard, redline your software meters, and drive into digital clipping at the converters.

It's going into the line-in of my soundcard. As in cheezy stock computer sound card with 1/8" trs connections? Sounds to me like you are plugging in a +4 output from your audio buddy into a -10 input on your cheesey sound card. There's nothing wrong with your Audiobuddy, you're overloading the input to your soundcard. You can either get a +4/-10 converter like this one from Ebtech, or get a better ADDA interface with +4 i/o, like this one from M-Audio.

Originally posted by d0zerz I'm recording a Deluxe reverb (22W combo) with a sm57 into an audiobuddy. OK and then what is the Audiobuddy plugged into? I'm guessing an AD input that is either set to the wrong sensitivity or is a mic not line level input. We need more info on your setup.

Unless the light is defective, which is unlikely that it would be and stuck on, something, an aux, a subgroup, is solo'd. It's not just for channel solo, it's for all the solos. Possibly one solo is stuck but you can't tell. Go through and hit every solo button a couple times and make sure they are all (channels, subgroups, aux's, etc.) in the up position.

It's a fine line between feeling human and being out of the pocket.