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Everything posted by KevinTJH

  1. Okay, I've been convinced not to touch the fretboard anymore, though I may throw on some Red wood stain that I have leftover from another build. Would 1 can of this Polyurethane spray suffice as the protective coat for the Acrylic? Also, what is the best tip for masking off the frets as I will be hydro dipping the entire neck too? I did buy some waterproof masking tape for this as well.
  2. Thanks, Phil! Would the undercoat primer over the fretboard essentially make it the same texture as the rest of the guitar sprayed with the same primer? Doing a quick Google Search has come up with results stating that it's okay to spray Polyurethane over Acrylic Paint or any paint (apparently). I've finished 3 guitars so far with Nitrocellulose (2x full cans per guitar), but I'm looking to try something different with this build.
  3. If it's too good to be true, it probably is. "Each customer can only buy one product at a time. Thank you for your cooperation." Which music store in the world ever says that?!
  4. I'm looking at picking up a DIY kit from Pitbull Guitars and then hydro dipping the entire thing. I've never done this before (go easy on my ignorance!) so I'm hoping to get some advice from the more experienced folks. Something like this: First of all, I'm going to pre-face this thread by mentioning that this is strictly for my own fun so it's more about aesthetics than actual quality tone. Out of curiosity, how much does painting the fretboard affect the overall tone? Rather than masking off the fretboard, I figured it might be interesting to hydro dip the rosewood fretboard as well. The darker coloured wood may separate itself a little more from the rest of the guitar, which might look cool. This means that primer will also have to be sprayed over the fretboard. Please tell me what your thoughts are on me following this process (I've included links to specific products in case they're not suitable): Spraying an 1-2 layers of Undercoat paint on the entire instrument including the fretboard: (https://www.bunnings.com.au/british-paints-310g-spray-easy-gloss-cherry-red_p1580878 OR https://www.bunnings.com.au/british-paints-310g-spray-easy-universal-primer_p1580873) Hydro dipping with Acrylic Paints. Though the entire guitar will be submerged in water so not sure how that will turn out. I'm assuming it would take over a week to fully dry? Spraying Polyeurathane over the whole instrument, sanding in between coats - How many cans will I need? (https://www.bunnings.com.au/cabot-s-300g-gloss-exterior-clear-spraypack_p1520270) Wetsanding to 1200-1500 grit Sanding metal frets to remove finish Hand-rubbing in some guitar polish If you guys think this could work then I'll get started right away. Any input on this project would be much appreciated!
  5. It looks like it's a no-go with that as it's a Soapbar sized. I have to find a specific "Musicman replacement size". I'm having trouble figuring out if those listed are Active or Passive humbuckers as neither of those keywords are in the descriptions! I'd assume they're all Active by default right?
  6. Any particular model you'd recommend? This one looks pretty badass, and would be in my budget: https://www.seymourduncan.com/pickup/nyc-bass-bridge-5-strg-3?__uuid_ref=5dc20cac99c41?__uuid_ref=5dc20cac99c7d
  7. I'm working on an air-brush painting project 5-string bass guitar with this kit: https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/guitars/pit-bull-guitars-mmb-5-electric-bass-guitar-kit/ With the amount of effort going into this project, I don't want to settle for the cheap Chinese stock pickups. What are some of my options out there for a 5-string Passive Humbucker that would be a perfect replacement pickup for this bass (no additional routing required)? I've seen some of the Aguila pickups selling for more than the entire bass kit, so I suppose my budget would be below that. Not looking for something extremely top end, just something better than the stock. Just another additional question, what sort of pots do these bass guitars use if I wanted to upgrade the electronics? I've got a couple of CTS 500K and 250K pots lying around from previous guitar projects, do the same pots work on basses? Thanks in advance!
  8. Looks like this is a much smaller issue than I thought. Thanks so much guys!
  9. It's a top loader. I'll be using an aftermarket pickguard and I will still need to drill the holes so I may align the pickguard according to the neck fitting.
  10. The neck has not been screwed in yet. Is it as simple as this video? Now that I have a rough idea about the gap, would it make sense for me to shove something on the side first before screwing in the neck? What if I shoved a guitar pick of the same thickness inside? I suppose a guitar pick could technically last forever in there since it's plastic.
  11. Hey guys, So I'm about 3/4 the way of natural satin finishing a zebrawood Telecaster kit (pre-drilled holes) when I started to notice a heartbreaking issue. When I got this Telecaster body and neck, the neck didn't fit in the pocket so I sanded down the sides of the pocket as evenly possible and neck now fits very snuggly. All hardware was purchased from GuitarFetish. I put the bridge on to test the string alignment and my OCD was shooting through the roof. I'll let the photos speak for themselves. However, in the last photo with the card, when I change the neck angle by just a hair (shoving a card in the pocket), it seems to improve on the alignment of the strings slightly: So what is the issue here? Neck angle? Bridge holes drilled incorrectly? Or both? As I only have the most basic household tools available, how can I fix this? Assuming it's really more the issue of the neck angle, what is the best way to screw in the neck? Would it be possible to use a little bit of wood glue just to hold the neck in place at the angle I want, then flip it over to screw in properly? On a side note, I might as well ask another question - When I screwed the bridge on, the screws didn't feel as tight as I'd hoped, what can I add into the holes to ensure a tighter grip on the body? Thanks in advance!
  12. That is a very valid question as it differs from each individual. To me, it’s overall length (being able to fit as a plane carry-on) and lightweight (as a bonus). It’s pretty important to me that the guitar “feels” like a normal guitar as much as possible, that’s why I never took much of an interest from Steinberg’s and Hofner’s travel guitar. I would prefer the standard 24.75 and 25.5 scale length as I mostly play in lower tunings. The “perfect” travel guitar for me would be one that has all the usual curves and contours of your standard guitar, while having all the areas that your forearm wouldn’t notice, cut off. That’s why I’m pretty keen to mod a guitar kit. I also think it’ll be a fun little project! I travel a bit for very short periods at a time so I want something convenient. My expensive leather hardcases get too much of a beating every time they come with me. PS: I got the Vox Amplug 2 and it’s amazing. I’ve also got an iRig 2 for the digital amps I run on my iPad.
  13. Will do! It probably won't be for a while though, but I probably will if I get stuck along the way too. "Not as elegant"? I think mine will probably be more on the tacky-side, but I don't mind the home-made look at all. Yes, you are right about the description. I should definitely bring it to their attention because it's rather misleading.
  14. I have been wanting a full-scale travel-electric guitar for some time but I have never come across one that really ticks all the boxes for me. I got a some inspiration from these: [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/maxresdefault_zpsuuxijqdm.jpg"}[/img2] [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/nGlX.03_tcd_blk_front_detail_jpg_zpsxxjwmaaa.jpg"}[/img2] So I was wondering if I could potentially build one myself from modifying an existing DIY guitar kit with limited wood-working tools? I'm also thinking of adding a little handle on the body for the fun of it. [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"https:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/download_zpsr3jwayci.jpeg"}[/img2] Due to my relationship with a particular supplier, I can get these DIY kits at cost price. I would like to challenge myself at getting this done with a budget of $50 to spend additional on top of the guitar kit. The 2 options I'm considering are either the Tele or Strat kit: https://kookaburramusictree.com/coll...e-no-soldering https://kookaburramusictree.com/coll...al-tuner-picks For the Tele kit, I was thinking of cutting the body straight down (including through the metal plate) just after the volume knob since I do not care about the tone knob at all. Then, glue on a small block of wood to fill the bottom. I will re-drill a new hole for the jack. If I could get this done cheaply enough, I may even make a spare as a backup. This guitar will solely be for practicing while I'm traveling so it doesn't have to sound top notch. What are your thoughts, guys? How cheaply could you make a practical travel guitar like this?
  15. Thanks, Garthman. I don't feel proud about being content with this repair job but it'll have to do for this occasion I suppose.
  16. Wow! I didn't mean to start a huge debate from my humble quest for opinions. I'm so sorry, guys! Apologies for the late response as I have been out and about for the whole of December.
  17. Waaaaait. This is only a temporary fix?!? What will happen if I don't do anything about it? Would a permanent fix mean pulling off the entire bridge and re-glueing it? Are there any other alternatives to this? Would having glue squirted underneath make the difference of making this a permanent fix? As in, could I potentially make a putty out of wood dust and wood glue and apply it with a credit card or so? I'll be masking off the surrounding area of course. That's correct. I'm not bothered about the black circle dots at all. It's merely just filling those gaps. If you look closely, there are not just gaps between the bridge and soundboard, there are also gaps where the bridge wood has split a little as well.
  18. I own a gorgeous mid-high end Guild 12-string guitar in mint condition but it has had the unfortunate fate of a lifted bridge. I took the guitar to my trusted guitar tech that I have been seeing for years and he reassured me that drilling 2 screws into the bridge would fix the problem straight away as he didn't recommend pulling out the entire bridge and re-glueing it. And so, he did just that. When I let the strings ring out and put weight on the bridge, there is no tonal change so I'm rather confident that there is absolutely no movement on the bridge anymore. It's really just more of a cosmetic issue at this stage. I picked up some wood putty from my local hardware store but wanted to get some opinions and advice first before risking damaging this guitar. Look forward to the input of some of you experts! Thanks in advance!
  19. That's actually spot on with what the band is. I ended up getting the Yamaha MG16 (not the XU version though, which as far as I know, is only missing the digital effects), which is also quite a bit cheaper. At this moment in time, I'm not to worry about vocal mics, guitar/bass mics, and drum mics as the main PA will be looking after that. It's more just getting the 2 different mixes (as you mentioned) for the In-ear monitoring. Are AUX SEND's only Mono, while PHONES are stereo? I probably need to do more research myself anyway, but thought I'd ask first. What do GROUP OUT's do? After rehearsing today, I found the band to actually be super tight since we have a good drummer who played really well with that click-track mix I did. I don't think we would really need anything too complex at this stage, so the stage wedges would suffice as fallbacks for now.
  20. In this case, I must've picked up the wrong product. However, I can still return this mixer for a different one. Would the MG12 do the trick then? It essentially has 2x AUX SEND's and 2x GROUP OUT (though I haven't researched enough as to what those are) https://www.storedj.com.au/yamaha-mg12-12-input-mixer?gclid=CjwKCAjwgabeBRBuEiwACD4R5icaZfLZp7urJ0WHfc1c9DdDPrNaBAdE0f2z2hsaGatmZTqJYVc00RoCZM0QAvD_BwE Or the MG16, which essentially has 4x AUX SEND's. Though it seems a bit excessive to get a mixer of that capacity simply for the purpose of In-Ear monitoring. https://www.bigmusicshop.com.au/yamaha-mg16-16-channel-mixer.html Another question is, are AUX SEND's meant to be stereo too? I tested mine out and for some odd reason, it only comes out on one side of my earphones. This is probably a very silly question to ask, but would the main PA be fed through one side of the MONITOR OUT or STEREO OUT? For some odd reason the STEREO OUT sounds a little lacking in volume and bass in comparison to the MONITOR OUT. That sounds like a sweet setup! Just googled your mixer and that's way over my budget at this stage unfortunately.
  21. Just picked up these 2. I'm thinking the iPad (with the track) could be just fed through one of the Inputs. [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/CDAEACE5-5566-4BCC-A7E7-08DCBACFB5EC_zpsgbkewyo8.jpg"}[/img2] In terms of Outputs, here are my thought: - Drummer will get PHONES - his Earphones (Stereo) - The other 4 members (including myself) will get the MONITOR OUT - Mono (1 side only) > Behringer Headphone Amp > 4x Earphones - The PA guy/main PA mixer for the venue will get the STEREO OUT - Mono (1 side only) > Main Mixer In this case, only the drummer will get the Stereo Track (clicktrack + backing track), the remaining 4 band members and the Stage Monitors will only get the Mono track. Would this work?
  22. Do you think the Behringer Xenyx 1002 (as above) would do the trick? I mean all I would really need is to feed the Click-track and Backing track to the drummer's In-Ears, and the Backing track to the stage monitors simultaneously... If the drummer plays in time, that should ideally carry forward with the rest of the band (assuming we're not absolutely rubbish at our instruments). Okay, one more question to yet another solution: [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/81xBZh9k7LL._SX522__zpsw8acsvgp.jpg"}[/img2] [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/71D6D69NpjL._SL1500__zpshe288yim.jpg"}[/img2] [img2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","src":"http:\/\/i1189.photobucket.com\/albums\/z437\/KevinTJH\/61f3qetcu5L._SL1500__zpsapgtq85n.jpg"}[/img2] What if I did a chain like: iPad > Behringer Input > The Headphone Outputs are split into 2 (2 musicians each) - One of the Headphone Outputs will get the Stereo Breakout Cable (The one with backing track to go to Stage Monitors, and the one with the Click-track will just be unused). Would this work?? On top of that, would adding something like this over this setup make it wireless for everyone? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Headphones-Transmitter-Receiver-Stereo-Music-Audio-Adapter-Wireless-Bluetooth/232944638910?epid=15024312058&hash=item363c951bbe:rk:1:pf:0
  23. Thanks so much for your reply, Phil. Don't mean to trouble you at all, but is there any chance you could specify what products, in particular, I would need to get to pull this off? I've been watching lots of tutorials on IEM for bands that recommend getting Headphone Amplifiers with multiple inputs. That's good and all, but how would we have the backing track (without the click) to play simultaneously on the stage monitors? Let's just assume that the PA System/Mixing Desk is located in its common spot, on the opposite side of the room from the stage. How should we go about doing this? I am also absolutely frustrated that the only Headphone Amplifiers I can find are 4-channel ones (we have 5 members including myself): https://www.rubbermonkey.com.au/Musi...Headphone-Amps Otherwise, it goes on to 8-channels and up, which are costly. I'm assuming I will need this too right? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C..._EEOByb4W8FY2C Alternatively, would this be the simple solution? I have used a Mixer before but I've never really done much with it. I really don't quite understand how this works so please correct me if I'm wrong with this assumption: 1) I would be using a Y-splitter (white & red) to 1/8 lead to go into the IN on the 2-TRACK Inputs to play my hard-panned backing&click track from my audio device 2) The Drummer would then have his stereo earphones plugged into the 1/4 PHONES Input above the LINE IN 5/6. 3) A separate cable would be plugged into the R Output on the CTRL ROOM OUT (this is assuming I have the backing track hard panned to the Right). 4) The PHONES/CONTROL ROOM knob controls the volume of both the Drummers earphones and what will be fed into the Soundguy's mixing desk. Is this correct?
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