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Everything posted by Belva

  1. It's kinda like riding a motorcycle. Once you get to 100, you be rollin'! 20 more mph ain't gonna seem faster, yer goin' fast already.
  2. WRG, Nice find! And yes I suffer from PRS (Pack Rat Syndrome)
  3. Yeah WRG, finding a use for stuff many people would throw away is rewarding. Even my high tech redneck taper jig for the table saw is made from a scrap that started life as a tailgate on a utility trailer. I'm turning that into a boat trailer, won't need it.
  4. I decided to nickname this Scrapola because it's literally all scraps Had some left over 1/2" Baltic birch which became the top, bottom and baffle. The rest is some 1/2" ACX left from various other projects. I'd never done a slant cab with a "TV" front so I got some practice. The amp is an old Samick AG10 I got for, IIRC, a buck at a yard sale. Had a torn speaker. I also had a 10 Fender Special Design speaker I got when I put a Tone Tubby in a friend's Super champ XD. The handle and cab corners came from the Samick. Speaker cloth? Yup, a scrap. Even the truck bed liner was left over from a project I did awhile back. I ran out and it could use another coat. But this was an exercise, so I really don't care. The amp only draws 26 watts, so an xtra battery and a power inverter in my truck means this will be a dandy camp amp. Doesn't sound great, but it also doesn't sound bad with a bit of tweaking on my processor.
  5. WTF is it doing so close to a base board heater?
  6. Been there, done that. With the 24&3/4 conversion neck I found using the 25.5 measurements from StewMac and moving the hole placement 1/16" toward the nut puts the bridge purty close. I actually have two of these necks and I'll measure from the saddle/s to the 12th fret on the one in use to verify position. This is another reason for considering the cut off Tele bridge. You can move them saddles a country mile!
  7. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Schaller-Non...-/331434402036 This looks interesting. Not string thru, but that doesn't HAVE to be. I don't understand why rollers on a non trem bridge, but I don't see them causing any problems. The string spacing adjustability is different. I suspect initial setup headaches, but once that's done I don't see anything other than the usual intonation tweaks over the course of it's life. Ain't exactly cheap either
  8. Something else I'm considering is a cut off Tele type bridge. I've used the Wilkinson full Tele bridge and it's a good product without spending a bundle. I've yet to get wood (DON'T GO THERE!!!) let alone drill holes, so I'm open to all string spacing possibilities. Hmmm, maybe mod an astray to fit on the top? A bit of careful cutting, bending an filing..............
  9. What's out there? I want a HT Strat bridge with vintage string spacing and string thru. I'm thinking of another scratch build Strat. I'm starting here before I go shopping. Wood will prolly be hollow Honduran with a maple cap for my Honduran/RW, USACG, 24&3/4 conversion neck. Looking to put sc size humbuckers in. Two of 'em, bridge and neck. I have a 10K and a 6K GFS and I do like the way they sound. Will the body be shaped like a Strat? Don't know yet.
  10. This is a jig I made for attaching the cleats for the backs and baffles. I used more of the 'teenager on Viagra' fir, so it should last awhile. I cut the rabbet 1&3/16 by 7/8 deep to give plenty of room. When I attach the 1/2" baffles and backs to the cleats that will leave 11/16" setback. Should be plenty to keep the latches from snagging on stuff. Plus I measured the distance from the edge to the baffle on my Peavey Bandit and came up with 3/4". Should work in the front and rear (DON'T GO THERE, VOLTAN!!).
  11. I had to make a block so the toggle clamp would work with the xtra thickness of the 2X, but the end result will be much faster with more accurate results. Now I gotta move the clamps on the other side. BTW I spent nada on this jig as I have scrap wood, had pieces of an old solid core door and have/had the toggle clamps. I don't throw nuttin' away. I'll get a pic of the back side of this to show the shelf bracket keeping the 2 pieces square. Oh and I use a butt load of wood glue on all of my projects.
  12. This is my high tech red neck pocket hole clamping/squaring jig. found and fixt problem with it as seen. More details; I found the toggle clamps have to be closer to the corner otherwise the pieces would migrate. I also found that it would be handy to have a stop to butt the pieces up against. I have an old piece of 2X6 fir that's harder than a teenager OD'ed on Viagra, so I squared up a piece and installed it nice and square.
  13. 11&7/8". Why? 12" seems to be a sweet spot tone wise. I settled on 1/8" less because I can get 4 equal pieces out of a 4X8 sheet of cab grade birch ply. Gotta account for the saw blade width or 'kerf'. 1/8" shorter doesn't matter, at least that's what my GF tells me.
  14. I've tried brush on bedliner which is stanky stuff. The speaker cab coating is roughly the same price and is latex. I may try the spray on route later if this turns into a money maker. Cost isn't cheap as I'm using all cab grade or Baltic birch plywood. My experience is that shop grade ply will work IF you don't get a piece with voids. When you get that, the speaker vibration will make the void/s delaminate into a mess. And yes, I've used the Rustoleum spray and it gets spendy! Liquid with the right tip for my spray gun would work. http://www.speakerhardware.com/duratex-roller-grade.php You can get this straight from the manufacturer. With my bidness license I prolly can get about a 15% price break buying in quantity. And later get a hopper gun to apply it mainly for speed of manufacture
  15. The cab build itself, with the pocket hole joinery, took about 2 hours. I'll be making more jigs for my next build/s which will be square. I'll be able to produce 4 as fast as one, so about 3 hours total time. I also think I'm gonna use 4 toggle type latches to make the builds faster and easier for the removable back. I'm also not crazy about the strength of the briefcase style latches. This method requires too much custom fitting and adjustment to make production feasible. Overall it sounds good and there is a notable difference between open and closed back. BTW the finish is Duratech speaker cab coating. A bit spendy, but cheaper than tolex, specially when you add in labor cost. I also won't be adding speakers. Customers can install their own.
  16. This is where the rubber hits the road; removable back.
  17. Pics of my latest project. I've since tightened up the cloth. I went with pocket screws and glue with 4 screws per corner. Yes, overkill, but it's 'fall off the back of the truck' strong.
  18. ~http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...switchLEDs.png Ran into signal degradation so I tried this wiring diag. Now I'm getting nothing until I turn on the 'verb. Then the amp comes to life. Nothing outa the channel select. Both LED's are working so I have to double check everything and proceed from there. I used DPDT ON/ON switches. Could that be the problem? Do I need ON/OFF?
  19. Now it's apart for paint. I elected to use primer and truck bed liner as I have 'em for the f100 project. The screw above the wire is now welded in place for grounds. I know it's redundant, but it'll be easier to wire and make switch replacement easier down the road.
  20. I knew I ad a piece of 1/4 ply to make a bottom; found it Gut shot
  21. I've been too busy for DIY projects lately, so I've been harassing the guys @ OJ and PP. Got this amp a few years back. Speaker cloth covered with blue latex paint and the baffle was broken. Had my amp tech fix it, needed every op amp and a few resistors. I now have about what it's worth into it. This thing sounds great! So I'm making it a new footswitch. I used some scrap 16 guage. You can see my high tech redneck shear and fence. I made sides outa scrap 2X4 ripped to 5/8" thick. Little work with the band saw, close enough for the girls I go out with. I decided to go ahead and source some real Carling switches and a proper stereo cord. It's cheaper to buy the built up cord and whack one end off than it is to make my own. I'm even gonna use some flathead brass wood screws to make it purty. For finish I'm just gonna use a rust converter to make it black and paint the sides and bottom (1/8" hardboard, yet to be bought) with some black latex I have. I even got some LED's from Radio Shack rated @ 12V forward with 980 ohm resistors built in. I measured 30mV from the switch jack so they should work fine. Hooked one up to an existing foot switch and the light is about right. BTW that's actually where I got my voltage measurement
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