What's with the Badass II bridge?

[bigredone]

I just got my Dimarzio Ultimate Jazz pups and Badass II bridge for my MIM Jazz bass in the mail today and was all ready to start rippin and snippin, then read the package "it is essential that a professional repairperson file the saddles to precisely fit each string & calibrate the note harmonics" There's no other info...

What kind of {censored} is that? Anybody know about this? What do you have to do take a round file and notch out the saddle for each string or somethin?

[chris-dax]

I just got my Dimarzio Ultimate Jazz pups and Badass II bridge for my MIM Jazz bass in the mail today and was all ready to start rippin and snippin, then read the package "it is essential that a professional repairperson file the saddles to precisely fit each string & calibrate the note harmonics" There's no other info... What kind of {censored} is that? Anybody know about this? What do you have to do take a round file and notch out the saddle for each string or somethin?

 

No - some people do notch the saddles and some don't. I'd skip it and see if you have any problem with string slippage. If you do, then you can notch the saddle...but it's simple...no biggy at all. There must be a how-to on the web somewhere....

 

I'd get a small tri-corner file...pretty fine...just make a couple of stokes..like maybe 1/8 inch deep v notch....

 

I have a BAII on my mim jazz and didn't notch it at all....works great. Actually after a couple of years the strings made a small groove all by themselves.

 

Regarding the "note harmonics" - If you don't know how to do a set up ask somebody to teach you. You need to know how to do this...again it's pretty straight forward and simple...just takes going through it once or twice to get the hang of it...

 

good luck...hope you like the BA.....

 

ps - I also installed a set of DiM Ultra Jazz on that bad boy...love 'em...c-d

[mamberg]

If you can, upgrade to the Badass III, you get two sets of saddles, both grooved and ungrooved, so it is much easier and straightforward to install.

 

The grooved saddles have a series of grooves in them, so I guess you choose the one that is in the correct position when you are stringing up.

 

I bought a Badass II, and had the same thought when I saw that it didn't have any grooves. I had a thread about this a few weeks ago, and about 1/2 of the replies said that they didn't groove the saddles. I think the best solution would be to make a small groove at the back 'corner' of the saddles, where the string turns to go down to the bottom. That would hold the strings in place, and you would still intonate from the front edge of the saddle.

 

I have been having trouble with the internet retailer that I bought mine from, and haven't been able to complete my install. I will post back in the original thread if they ever come through for me, or when I give up on them.

[Grumpy_Polecat]

This is kind of a Luthierie 101 question.

 

First off, it is simpler (i.e. less expensive) for the manufacturer to say 'get this professionally installed' than it is to offer support and warranty claims for all the botched attempts made by end users. It's much the same as what you see on many many other products, "for best results, use only genuine BrandX parts," even though we all know that BrandX and BrandY brake fluid are exactly the same thing, in differently labeled bottles.

 

With that out of the way, yes, it is true that one should slot their saddles to the same amount as the string gauge. It is not true that it is absolutely necessary and it is not true that one cannot do it themselves and without special, expensive tools.

 

But there are certain reasons why a Gibson Les Paul costs so much more than the knock-off versions, including some of the Epiphone models: Quality of materials and workmanship. Same goes for Sonor drums vs. any others. The list goes on and on.

 

Many times on getting a new instrument one finds it needs a lot of 'stroking' by a professional. It may be true that a cheap guitar can be made to play as well as the more expensive one, and for a lower cost, but there's a value in being able to use it 'right out of the box'.

 

At a bear minimum however, it is absolutely necessary for a guitar to be set-up after a bridge swap. Just no two ways about it. This is easily done, and requires trial and error even when done by a pro. (just a little less of it... experience pays in time saved.) Usually all that's needed is a screwdriver and an allen wrench (a tiny one!). These tools can be gotten at any hardware store.

 

The technique for doing this has been gone over several times, and probably is in the HCBF FAQ forum.

 

As for the slots, there is a valid reason for there being some amount of relief for the strings. The slots help to locate the strings correctly, one to the next, they keep the strings in their places, and also help them transmit tone to the wood. Too much of a slot is as bad as too little.

 

There are special files available that are specifically gauged the same as strings. The best results will come from their use, but they a reasonable job can be done (taking a LOT more time!) with more ordinary tools. The most important thing to remember is it's impossible to put material BACK once its filed away. So a 'little at a time' approach is imperative.

 

It's best to get the 'hobby' set of files a store like Radio Shack, and just work with them until it comes out right. Anything in the hardware store will probably be far too big. But in the case of basses, these won't be as useful as the special ones.

 

This can be VERY painstaking though. Put the string on, une it up, take it off, file a bit more, repeat. Over and over and over. It makes the cost of the special files worthwhile in pretty short order.

 

Which brings us back to the professional. You should be able to get that properly installed for around $50-75. Stew-mac has a basic set for under $50.

 

You'll have to make the choice of spending the money and having the tools for the future, spending the money and getting the job done by someone else, or dealing with the lack of perfection that doing nothing will cause.

 

Hope this helps.