Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 I'm embarrassed that I have to ask this, but here goes: I have a Hamer Cruise bass, which has the normal three pots (knobs). I'm assuming two are volume and one is tone. Which is which? Referring to the picture below, am I right in thinking that the pot marked 3, is the volume for the pickup nearest the nut, the pot marked 2 is the volume for the pickup nearest the bridge, and the pot marked 1 is the tone? Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 Correct! Nice bass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Thumper Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 Correct! Nice bass. With a 2Tek bridge, no less. Nice bass, indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Author Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 Thanks Kindness . It is actually much nicer than that photo makes it look. I'm about to re-string a bass for the first time. I'll hopefully have no surprises... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 I'll be here if you need help. And just for fun, here are my three pre-mods: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Author Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 ^ Very nice indeed! I'll be here if you need help. Thanks very much. I assume I can safely cut the strings if they're too long - just like a regular guitar? (Sorry for even more lame questions). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 You want to thread the strings through the bridge from the back side and pull them through the bridge. Pull the ends of the strings up past the tuner posts and cut each string approximately 3-4" past the post. Then thread the cut end of each string into the hole in the center of each post, bend it over and start wrapping the string on the post by turning the tuning keys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 I'll be here if you need help. And just for fun, here are my three pre-mods: What the {censored} is this {censored}? You have more than one Lakland and more than one Hamer? Go {censored} yourself, pal. C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 What can I say, I like the locally made basses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Author Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 OK. Re-strung with no surprises. Thanks for the help - particularly the 3-4" rule . Now, I can hear (and is confirmed with a tuner) that the intonation is out on the E and the A string. The octaves are sharp. Am I right in thinking that this would be adjusted by the one screw on the bottom of each bridge piece (the one that would effectively vary the length of the resonant part of the string)? I can see that every adjustment of this would alter the tuning drastically, so would be quite a bit of trial and error. Any gems of wisdom for me? I won't alter anything 'till I hear from you guys . It's good to know you guys are there . Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 The first thing you want to check/set is the relief of the neck - the forward/back bow. You can see where it is currently by depressing the E string at the first and last frets and looking around the 9th fret to see how much clearance there is between the bottom of the string and the top of the 9th fret. You want there to be some space between the two, but not much. In most cases, if the fret work is well done, you want it to be no more than the thickness of a business card. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 Intonation is easy. Fret the note at the 12th fret, then play an open note, and if there's a difference between the two notes, adjust:-if the fretted note is sharp relative to the open note, move the saddle back-if the fretted note is flat, move the saddle forward. A little adjustment can go a long way. After you get the notes to match, play a harmonic at the 12th fret and see if it's in tune as well; if it's off make the same adjustments you did before, but only to a teensy, weensy, WEENSY bit. Voila.C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 The first thing you want to check/set is the relief of the neck - the forward/back bow. You can see where it is currently by depressing the E string at the first and last frets and looking around the 9th fret to see how much clearance there is between the bottom of the string and the top of the 9th fret. You want there to be some space between the two, but not much. In most cases, if the fret work is well done, you want it to be no more than the thickness of a business card. Does it smell in there? This advice, while solid and accurate, is completely full of {censored}. Kinda. C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 If the relief is not where it should be, you will need to adjust the truss rod. You do this by opening the truss rod cover on the headstock by the nut and using the truss rod adjustment tool (or other socket that fits) to increase or decrease the relief. The nut on the truss rod tightens and loosens like any normal threaded nut, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Tighten the truss rod to decrease the forward bow. Loosen the truss rod to increase the forward bow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 If the relief is not where it should be, you will need to adjust the truss rod. You do this by opening the truss rod cover on the headstock by the nut and using the truss rod adjustment tool (or other socket that fits) to increase or decrease the relief. The nut on the truss rod tightens and loosens like any normal threaded nut, righty-tighty, lefty-loosey. Tighten the truss rod to decrease the forward bow. Loosen the truss rod to increase the forward bow. Don't use a drill with a bit driver for this step. Trust me.C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 Does it smell in there? This advice, while solid and accurate, is completely full of {censored}. Kinda. C7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 Don't use a drill with a bit driver for this step. Trust me.C7 Hahahaha! No you shouldn't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Author Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 The first thing you want to check/set is the relief of the neck - the forward/back bow. You can see where it is currently by depressing the E string at the first and last frets and looking around the 9th fret to see how much clearance there is between the bottom of the string and the top of the 9th fret. You want there to be some space between the two, but not much. In most cases, if the fret work is well done, you want it to be no more than the thickness of a business card. mmm, the clearance is nearly the width of the string! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 After the relief is set, you need to set the heights of the bridge saddles. You want to follow the radius of the neck and slightly decrease the string heights as you move from E to G. Medium action is achieved when the E string is depressed at the first fret and the distance between the top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the E string is approximately 100-110 thousandths of an inch and decreasing across the strings to about 80-90 thousandths of an inch on the G string. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 mmm, the clearance is nearly the width of the string! Okay, this is a major adjustment and needs to be handled slowly. Remove the truss rod cover and tighten the nut until it is "finger tight." Let me know whether it was already finger tight or if it was totally loose in the neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Crescent Seven Posted June 27, 2007 Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 That was intended to be an obvious crack... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 That was intended to be an obvious crack... Don't make me put together another three post smackdown, bee-otch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Author Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 Okay, this is a major adjustment and needs to be handled slowly. Remove the truss rod cover and tighten the nut until it is "finger tight." Let me know whether it was already finger tight or if it was totally loose in the neck. mmm, seem to be at a flying stop with this one. I don't have a truss rod tool, and I can't see there's any way I'd get any kind of socket I have in there . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members English Posted June 27, 2007 Author Members Share Posted June 27, 2007 I obviously can't move the strings out of the way to get to it because it'll alter the tension on the neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Kindness Posted June 27, 2007 Moderators Share Posted June 27, 2007 mmm, seem to be at a flying stop with this one. I don't have a truss rod tool, and I can't see there's any way I'd get any kind of socket I have in there . Okay, that is a problem. Contact Hamer and get one. You need it. customerservice@hamerguitars.com Give them the serial number and they will know what tool you need. If you run into a problem with them, let me know. I'm sure I can get you what you need one way or another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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