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Intonation Refresher...I aparently need one.


JacieFB

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I've mentioned a couple of times lately that one of my P-basses won't intonate well. Here's what I got:

 

2001 MIA P-bass

Older (no slots for the saddle piece screws that set the height) bridge.

Currently strung with SS flats.

 

A, D, & G strings intonate perfectly.

 

E string...not so much. Everything is sharp except my open E and the harmonic @ the 12th fret. It's worse the farther up the fretboard you get.

 

First off, let me ask the question...am I doing it wrong? Everything being sharp, I understand that I should tighten the screw that adjusts the saddle position. In other words...move the saddle back towards the bridge away from the nut. Is this correct? I've got that thing cranked pretty far back and so far it's done nothing. :mad:

 

Is this some sort of fret issue, perhaps?

 

Helps!

 

:D

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you *MAY* need the neck shimmed. i had this problem with my first bass on the G string. no matter how i adjusted the saddle (up all the way to back all the way) it was still sharp at the 12th fret and very noticeable. it was quite annoying. took it to get looked at after kindness suggested so and the dude said the neck needed to be shimmed. $20 later it was spot on and ready to go.

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you *MAY* need the neck shimmed. i had this problem with my first bass on the G string. no matter how i adjusted the saddle (up all the way to back all the way) it was still sharp at the 12th fret and very noticeable. it was quite annoying. took it to get looked at after kindness suggested so and the dude said the neck needed to be shimmed. $20 later it was spot on and ready to go.

 

 

 

That's exactly what's happening to my E-string...by the time you get to the 15th fret, it's +20. :freak:

 

Ugly. :(

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IEverything is sharp except my open E and the harmonic @ the 12th fret. It's worse the farther up the fretboard you get.


I should tighten the screw that adjusts the saddle position. In other words...move the saddle back towards the bridge away from the nut. Is this correct?

 

 

You have answered your own question. If it it all the way back and you are still sharp, you need a different gauge string or you need to move the bridge.

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The 12th fret harmonic will of course be in tune if the open string is in tune. Why? Because it's a freely vibrating string for it's entire length, splitting the fundamental in 2, and the fundamental is the open string in tune.

 

However, the 12th fret fretted, that's a different story. That's a truly fretted note, with the subsequent scale length between the fret and the bridge saddle, including intonation adjustment.

 

Fretted and in-tune harmonic should be the same.

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Certain things can be accomplished with a ruler. If the distance from the 0 fret (or nut) to the 12th is at all shorter than from the bridge saddle to the 12th fret, you do NOT need to either shim the neck or move the bridge.

 

Beware of doing more to your instrument than need be done.

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