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replacement speaker


samson3382

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noob here. I have an older SWR 1X15 8 ohms 200 watts. im getting a genz benz GBE 1200 soon and i was considering getting a replacement 15 inch speaker for the SWR cab to run in combination with either a 2X10 or 4X10. I was looking at the Kappalite 3015 LF, BEYMA 15G40, CIARE 15NDH-4, things of that nature. Is that SWR cab worth it? Will it work or more importantly sound good?:wave:

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OK so i did my best to get the internal dimensions of the SWR cab. 16.75 deep X 21 wide X 18.5 tall. came up with 3.76584 cubic feet. sounds about right. The port is a slot the width of the cab below the speaker, 21 X 2. 42 square inches, or .0291666 square ft.

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3.7 sounds like the outside dimensions. In that case the internal dimensions are probably closer to 2.8 or 3.0ish.

 

While the tuning is probably a bit low I'd think at that volume a Kappalite 3015 would be better than a 3015LF.

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thanks a bunch for the help BTW. is a there 4 ohm options available? as i am getting the genz benz GBE1200 soon and it goes down to two ohms, (1000@4, 1200@2) i was hoping to find a 4 ohm speaker. but would I even notice the 100 watt difference? can't imagine i would. if I went with an 8 ohm 15, would my other cab have to be 8 ohms? this amp has an ohm setting switch, would it be safe/recomended to run it @ 2.66 ohms in the 2 ohm setting? sorry lots of ?s there

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You don't want to use a 4 ohm speaker in that box with 1000 watts. You will run out of X-max, even with the internal HPF on the GBE-1200 and risk damaging the speaker from exceeding it's mechanical limits.

 

If you were to be stuck with a 4 ohm single 15 speaker, I would recommend running the amp in the 2 ohm position which reduces the 4 ohm rating to roughly 750 watts which would be safer but still runs the risk of exceeding Xmax by quite a margin at say 35 Hz.

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:thu:Awsome. Just ordered the Dayton PF385-8I (8ohms). For now (well once i get the benz & the dayton hopefully middle of next week) I'll be running that with my existing benz 2X10XB (8ohms 250 watts) so it'll be running 500 watts to each cab. I'll have to keep an ear on the genz of course. I eventually want some serious knock down tone & power so I'll probably need to upgrade from the genz2X10. I think I'm just gonna need more surface area than the 2X10 I already have can offer even with its own speaker upgrade. I'm considering a nice 4X10 to go with the dayton/SWR+GBE1200 once some of this is paid off. Any suggestions @this point?

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Man why would you buy that Dayton when you could have a 3015 instead? Ugh.

 

It's almost the same price, inferior, and weighs a metric {censored} ton. Oh and it wants more space than a 3015 too.

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well should i cancel and switch? (i play a 5 string if that matters, I use the low b for effect in most songs) a little voice inside says heavier is better and it handles 50 watts more, 10 Hz lower, but i can ignore that cause thats why I'm here, for advice. it was another suggestion earlier in the thread, a little cheaper, but i like to buy once....

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well should i cancel and switch? (i play a 5 string if that matters, I use the low b for effect in most songs) a little voice inside says heavier is better and it handles 50 watts more, 10 Hz lower, but i can ignore that cause thats why I'm here, for advice. it was another suggestion earlier in the thread, a little cheaper, but i like to buy once....

 

 

 

The Kappalite 3015 and 3015LF are the best. The LF can handle significantly more power, but has a nastier midrange breakup if run full range. In comparison, the 3015 sounds better run full range, but is limited in output versus the 3015LF. Either does a lot of damage for a 1x15.

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The Kappalite 3015 and 3015LF are the best. The LF can handle significantly more power, but has a nastier midrange breakup if run full range. In comparison, the 3015 sounds better run full range, but is limited in output versus the 3015LF. Either does a lot of damage for a 1x15.

 

 

sounds like apples and oranges....i play some funk slap and some reggae warm bass and stuff in between, so is there one i should avoid? In MOST situations i won't need all the power i'll have but there is times where it will come in handy, i just like knowing i could carry the house if i had too.

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sounds like apples and oranges....i play some funk slap and some reggae warm bass and stuff in between, so is there one i should avoid? In MOST situations i won't need all the power i'll have but there is times where it will come in handy, i just like knowing i could carry the house if i had too.

 

 

I use a 3015LF in combination with a really nice 6 inch midrange driver as my primary cabinet. I've used the 3015 with one as well. In those applications, you always want the LF because you have another driver covering the high mids and above. However, without the midrange driver I think the non-LF sounds best, but only marginally. Even still, the LF will give you more output. I guess, if pressed, I'd pick the LF.

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Given the likely internal volume of the cab, combined with its lack of a midrange driver, you will get more mileage out of a 3015 imho.

 

And it weighs like 1/4th what the Dayton driver weighs, and is a lot louder (almost 6db more sensitive for most of the range).

 

The main number to look out for for the 5-string is 60hz - and a 3015 in a 3cf enclosure will go to like 122db @ 60hz with a proper tuning.

 

If my math is correct your cab is tuned to around 58hz, so you should be well served with a 3015 vs. a 3015Lf.

 

The GBE1200's internal 40-ish hz high pass filter should keep the driver very safe as long as you don't crank the deep knob (which lowers this rolloff frequency down to as low as 30hz I believe).

 

If you put a 3015LF in that cab it's going to not sound great in the upper end of the spectrum and while it will take more abuse on the low end, it will not be appreciably louder at any point (due to the cabinet tuning frequency and size).

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I use a 3015LF in combination with a really nice 6 inch midrange driver as my primary cabinet. I've used the 3015 with one as well. In those applications, you always want the LF because you have another driver covering the high mids and above. However, without the midrange driver I think the non-LF sounds best, but only marginally. Even still, the LF will give you more output. I guess, if pressed, I'd pick the LF.

 

 

definetly going with either 3015LF or 3015. i will use it with my 2X10 for now or a whole new 4X10 eventually, and i just had the idea of adding a second completely different 2X10. (so a 1x15 8ohm+2X10 8ohm+2X10 8ohm. would be a funky lookin rig) so would that cover my mids-highs... or would there be a bit of a frequency gap if i went with the LF?

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Kindness, am I wrong about the tuning? It looks to me like a 3015LF in 3cf box @ 58hz is basically pointless. It'll add a little more 30-50hz power handling but not much output (if any).

 

Here's what the maxspl graph looks like comparitively in winisd, assuming my guess of 58hz and 3 cubic feet internal is right:

 

3015-vs-lf.jpg

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Check your max. spl charts. If they are based on thermal limits, they're off; as bass players we aren't running sine waves into the cabinets. The real limit is going to be the displacement, for which the LF is king.

 

I'd show you in WinISD, but I'm on my bberry.

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