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Looking for a sub amp


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I've not got much money to spend really because I dont earn very much but i'm in need of a sub amp. I've been searching the net and found two I can just about afford, they're the peavey cs4080 and crown xls5000.I really cant afford anymore than

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I run it stereo with an EV PX-2181 on each channel, got great bass output.

 

The one bad thing(or good thing) about that amp is that you can't go below a 4 ohm load stereo but those Crowns put out about 2000 watts bridged don't they?

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I just did a search for Matrix amplifier reviews and its a mix of half and half. Some people say they've had them last years but the bad thing is a hell of a lot of people say they've used them and had them fail and quite a few people have said that the amps have fried theirs subs and tops so i'm gonna give Matrix a miss for definate.

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Hmm depends if you've read about the new or older matrix models. They went bust a few years ago and the brand name was bought out by Andy, he then redesigned all the amps and has just recently launched some new models.

 

But fair enough, I'm happy with my collection anyway and that Peavey is 24kg - That alone means i wouldn't ever consider it!

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Yeah they do, but a sound technician I know has told me in the past to trust only 20hz-20khz specs and especially ones with FTC next to it whatever that means.

 

 

Bull-crap.

 

Look for the 1kHz spec, RMS or continuous, and 1%THD is a good real world indicator of practical output power. The 20kHz spec has nothing to do with reality and the often slightly lower output power is due to the rising output impedance losses. For subs, this never ever comes into play. Even for full range it doesn't matter since the HF portion of the signal is almost always less than 10% of the total power.

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I asked him about it and he said to me that full bandwidth specs are better to go by and that its better to go with amplifiers that have a lower THD rating too, like an amp that has an output of 1,200 watts per channel at 0.3%THD is capable of giving the speakers that power with less distortion than an amp thats rated at 1,200 watts per channel at 1.0%THD. He also said that full bandwidth specs are better for subs seeing as subs dont operate at 1khz so the 1khz rating doesn't give as accurate an idea of output as the 20hz-20khz rating.

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Rob,

 

Save yourself any headaches and go with the 4080.. They put out a lot of power and pull very little AC doing it. I have been using them for a few years now, pushed them hard in direct sunlight, and they keep going, going, going.. kinda like the engergizer bunny.. ha, ha... Never had a problem and running 2000 watts per box. Just my 2 centavos.

 

B. Holt

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I asked him about it and he said to me that full bandwidth specs are better to go by and that its better to go with amplifiers that have a lower THD rating too, like an amp that has an output of 1,200 watts per channel at 0.3%THD is capable of giving the speakers that power with less distortion than an amp thats rated at 1,200 watts per channel at 1.0%THD. He also said that full bandwidth specs are better for subs seeing as subs dont operate at 1khz so the 1khz rating doesn't give as accurate an idea of output as the 20hz-20khz rating.

 

 

Since I design these products, I probably have just a little bit better perspective than your buddy does.

 

Your buddy does not understand amp specs. Period.

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Since I design these products, I probably have just a little bit better perspective than your buddy does.


Your buddy does not understand amp specs. Period.

 

 

Whats with the attitude? You're talking to me like i'm a piece of dog poo. Nevermind, i'll take my questions somewhere else in future. Bye.

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Whats with the attitude? You're talking to me like i'm a piece of dog poo. Nevermind, i'll take my questions somewhere else in future. Bye.

 

 

You are looking for a sub amp. The 20kHz spec (or anything over 100Hz for that matter) is useless. The slight dropoff off power occurs primarily at frequencies above 5-10kHz due to technical reasons related to amp design. The 1kHz spec. is most accurate from 20Hz to 10kHz which is the band that you are interested in.

 

This is what I told you first, you came back again that your buddy said the 20-20kHz spec is what you should look at. I say he doesn't know what he is talking about. Don't like this advice... tough {censored}. Go elsewhere wher perhaps you will get agreement even if it's bad info.

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