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Hughes Kettner Grandmeister 36


lespaul1964

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At rehearsal yesterday (first after a gig) I turned on my amp and the patches from my processor were working fine. When I switched to the amp generated tones I got zilch. Then switched back to the processor generated patches, immediately heard a scratch and the sound went dead. HK has something called TSL to protect the tubes, all the TSL lights were on. The manual says that it is either a blown fuse that has to be,repaired by a tech, or a tripped fuse. I live overseas and do not have Hughes Kettner authorized repair techs here. Anyone had the same problem? Is there a way to reset a fuse? Or a way to change one without a tech around? The amp is three or four months old.

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Ugh. Digital electronics effects in a tube amp. That alone spells trouble. Heat from tubes can easily overheat SS components and when you have High voltage tube components along with low voltage components you always have risk of spikes affecting the low voltage components,

 

 

Have you tried it without the Midi pedals and just the guitar, amp and speaker with the correct impedance?

 

First thing I'd try is a factory reset. You have lights so you must have some power there. The login may have become corrupted some how.

 

8.3 Factory Reset

A factory reset is a seldom-needed feature. Nonetheless, please read these

instructions carefully to ensure you don’t accidentally delete your presets.

You can perform a factory reset by doing the following:

Press "Store" and "FX Access" simultaneously while powering the amp

up by using the Power/On switch. Both buttons will flash three times to

indicate the successful factory reset.

Caution: Please note that this procedure is a last-resort option. It will

reset all settings, including the 128 MIDI-switchable presets (chapter 2)

and the basic MIDI configuration (chapter 8.1).

 

It lists only one fuse in the manual which is theMains fuse, 120 volts 250 V / T 1.6 A L

 

 

If it was to go out you wouldn't have any lights at all because that's in line with the power cord.

If the amps is completely dead, check your wall outlet or any extension cords you have, Cheap

power strips are often made for lower current devices. This amp looks to draw at least 4 amps minimum.

The power fuse may be in the unit between the power switch and power cord or before the power transformer.

 

Do not change it with any other fuse then the one the amp is rated for.

If the first one blew there's usually a good reason. If a second one blows its definitely got a major issue.

don't go sticking another higher amp fuse in it just so you can watch the thing go up in smoke.

In fact I suggest you get it looked at by an authorized dealer. The second you crack a screw on it you void the warrantee.

 

If its only a few months old it should be under warrantee still and other then shipping it to a repair center it shouldn't cost anything to fix it.

If you contact them they may even send you a shipping label to send it in so it wont cost you anything.

Hopefully you haven't abused it sticking in the wrong impedance cabs or used the wrong connecting devices and cables.

If you did then you may know what you did when they diagnose it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I had a Fender Deluxe 90 come into my shop. Although it is not a tube amp, it did have a digital effects board in series with the signal.

 

Fender is famous for doing things on the cheap and in this case it was the 5volt power supply which consisted of a voltage regulator and a power resistor. Because of the minimal power rating on the resistor it heated up to the point of destabilizing the solder connection which effectively turned off the effects board and blocked the signal from passing through the amplifier.

 

I could tell the power amp section of the unit was still working because I could hear some noise in the speaker when it was turned on.

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