Floyd Rose Radius issues/questions

[JnBroadbent]

My Jackson has been playing like dick lately so I'm getting it setup tomorrow so I decided to really clean it so I took it apart. It had a shim under the A-B string (none under either E)

 

It has an OFR (FRT-300 Gold)

 

My RR24 has a compound radius (14" to 16" I believe)

 

Now I thought an OFR was had an 10" radius.

 

The shim creates a smaller or 'more round' radius causing the A-B strings to be higher off the fretboard then the E's which are oddly enough the ones that 'fret out' or get fret buzz the first (if I'm lowering the OFR via studs)

 

So I'm guessing I should I take it out and put shims under the two E's creating a flatter radius?

 

You'd figure I just let the gutiar tech take care of it but I'm quite interested myself. I'll make sure he knows what's up before I hand it over.

 

EDIT: The OFR that's on it is not the original Floyd that came on it. That's a Korean made OFR (Made under Floyd rose specs, but cheaper, on most high end LTD/Edwards and Import Jacksons, looks the exact same but no made in germany stamp on base plate)

[starsnuffer]

Just shim it until it works. The radius should match the radius at the 24th (or 22nd) fret pretty closely. Keep in mind you want to go off the radius UNDER the strings, not over. Obviously the thicker strings will seem higher on the top.

 

I'm fairly sure the bridge itself is flat, the saddles are just different heights. Just take them all off and line them up next to eachother so you can see for yourself.

 

-W

[JnBroadbent]

 

Just shim it until it works. The radius should match the radius at the 24th (or 22nd) fret pretty closely. Keep in mind you want to go off the radius UNDER the strings, not over. Obviously the thicker strings will seem higher on the top. I'm fairly sure the bridge itself is flat, the saddles are just different heights. Just take them all off and line them up next to eachother so you can see for yourself. -W

 

 

Well each saddle is different (E's, A/B's, D/G's) and it IS 10" radius.

 

I found this though

 

This is an easy guide to shimming your Original Floyd Rose saddles to get a close match to your fretboard radius. This way you can dial it in very fast to get very close to a perfect match for best action. Note: Unless your guitar has a 10" non-compound fretboard radius, you will need to shim your floyd saddles if you want good action. This is because the ORIGINAL Floyd bridge radius = 10". You can buy .2mm shims that fit Floyd saddles on the internet in packs of 6 or 12. Just do a google search. To find out how many .2 mm shims to add to each string saddle, see below (note that the D and G strings get no shim): Fingerboard Radius (at bridge) / E strings # shims / A and B strings # shims 10" / 0 / 0 12" / 1 / 0 14" / 2 / 1 16" / 2 / 1 18" / 3 / 1 You can also make your own shims out of coke soda cans (cut out of the coke can skin, which is about .1mm thick) or you can use copper shielding tape (that you shield your guitar with.) If you do either of these, you should measure the thickness with a micrometer. You can also cut up feeler gages to get your appropriate thickness. Here is a table of thickness to add to each string: Fingerboard Radius (at bridge) / E strings / A and B strings 10" / none / none 12" / .2 mm / .1 mm 14" / .4 mm / .2 mm 16" / .5 mm / .2 mm 18" / .6 mm / .2 mm For Warmoth compound necks, use the 18" row for radius at bridge to find out what to add. For some other compound neck, you'll need to estimate or calculate your fretboard radius at the bridge ( the radius flattens as you get closer to the bridge for a compound neck.)

 

[trendkill1168]

That is correct....you probably have a compound radius neck which is 10 degrees at the nut and 16 degrees at the last fret. A standard Floyd locking nut is 10 degrees so you will be fine there but at the bridge you are going to want to shim both E strings with 2 shims and the A & B strings with 1 shim. You definately don't need a shim under the A, D, G, & B strings otherwise it is going to make the radius under 10 degrees which will really create problems at the upper frets.

[JnBroadbent]

 

That is correct....you probably have a compound radius neck which is 10 degrees at the nut and 16 degrees at the last fret. A standard Floyd locking nut is 10 degrees so you will be fine there but at the bridge you are going to want to shim both E strings with 2 shims and the A & B strings with 1 shim. You definately don't need a shim under the A, D, G, & B strings otherwise it is going to make the radius under 10 degrees which will really create problems at the upper frets.

 

 

I wish I found it out earlier.

 

Dude, I had a {censored}ing shim under A through B on a 16" board towards on the upper frets. I thought it was pretty badass too, I can't wait to get this bitch going.