Members cannibal animal Posted June 11, 2007 Members Share Posted June 11, 2007 I've been wanting to mod my Dunlop CRYBABY 95Q with a "vocal" mod, enhanced sweep, and perhaps adjusting the delay on the auto shut off (I'm not sure if you can adjust the time and make it shorter) and true bypass. As for the vocal sounding mod and the sweep mod, I understand I need to replace a few resistors or whatever. What the problem is, my wah has an SMD board and was deemed un-moddable. Any help or suggestions? Pics: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members mikeldtl Posted June 11, 2007 Members Share Posted June 11, 2007 Tiiiiiiiiinnnnnnyyy desoldering braid and tweezers. Lots of patience....It's not impossible but a royal pain in the ass, I was going to fiddle with my Bad Monkey and when I got through the trouble of getting it apart, I saw it was all SMD. I sighed and put it back together...... You also may consider making your own board? I know there are some good wah circuits around, maybe instead of going through the trouble of modding you could just gut it for the shell and build what you want.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members LordOVchaoS Posted June 11, 2007 Members Share Posted June 11, 2007 SMD is such a pain in the ass to work with that it's not worth the effort! My suggestion would be to sell yours here or on ebay and pick up a slightly older one that isn't SMD. I just modded a crybaby 2 weeks ago and not only was it easy as all hell the results were well worth the effort! Not worth messing with SMD electronics though Also, the mods on the internet will do you no good at all with that pedal, it's laid out completely different than the older ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Quarter Posted June 11, 2007 Members Share Posted June 11, 2007 SMD's are a pain to work with, but it can be done.I used to do a lot of chip modding on the first series of AMD's Athlon slot A's, they used the ultra tiny 603 package. To work with SMD resistors and caps, a temp adjustable soldering station is recommended with a SMD tip. The tip is notched in the middle so you can heat each side of the SMD at the same time. In a pinch, you can notch a wide chisel tip to work too. If you still want to give it a try, I'd recommend taking an old sound / video card, etc and practice your technique first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members datstrat Posted June 13, 2007 Members Share Posted June 13, 2007 Actually, once you get in the swing of things... you may find that SMT is easier and quicker to work on than traditional through hole. It's just a matter of getting the technique down. I believe in many respects SMT is much easier to deal with. Looking at that particular board it looks like the is lots of spare "real estate", allowing good access to the various components for removal/modification. I say go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members dirk-hendrik Posted June 13, 2007 Members Share Posted June 13, 2007 I've had this one on my bench a while ago? Why exactly doe you want to TB-it? This wah doesnt have anything in common with the normal crybabies from a tonesuck perspective as it as an input resistance of about a meg (out of memory). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members kazper Posted June 13, 2007 Members Share Posted June 13, 2007 SM stuff is ok as long as you have the equipment to work with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members philbo Posted June 14, 2007 Members Share Posted June 14, 2007 I agree SMD is way easier than through-hole parts... if your close-up vision is good. It's hard to generalize about - - there are SMD parts that are very simple to work with, and others that are smaller than pepper grains, which you can almost not see.... (for example, they now have resistors that are 0.010 x 0.020"). You need a couple good sets of tweezers, and 2 soldering irons with very small tips, and very small diameter solder (0.010 or 0.015" diameter) to efficiently work with 2-lead SMD devices. To de-solder:You need to heat both sides at once, and quickly get the part moved off the copper pads while the solder is melted on both sides. To clean up:Use braid (and maybe a dab of paste flux) to completely remove the solder from one pad. To install a different part:Hold the part with the tweezer, and heat the side of the part that is sitting on the uncleaned side (where there is still solder). Don't dwell for more than 1 or 2 seconds - - if it doesn't melt immediately, stop & try adding flux. Once that side is anchored, solder the other side. Chips are more difficult. For these, if you don't have special tools, the only good way to do it is to wick all the solder off of every pin as much as possible, then use a dental pick & microscope. Heat each pin and pry it up off the pad, being careful not to pry unless the solder that's left is melted, and being careful not to bend the pin more than 3 or 4 thousandths of an inch. Even with these precautions, the odds that the chip will survive are about 1 in 5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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