Members Mr.Soul Posted June 29, 2010 Members Share Posted June 29, 2010 Hey, I need to remove a cracked (destroyed) bridge of an acoustic. I know pretty much how to get it off, but as its something I've never done before, even if I've seen other people do it, I just want some feedback from you guys. Anything I should NOT do or good tips that will make the process easier? Its been screwed in and glued to the top of the guitar. The screws came off beautifully but I'm somewhat wary of the bridge itself. Thanks! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 29, 2010 Members Share Posted June 29, 2010 Screws? Before you take the old one off measure accurately the location of the saddle slot - both ends from the nut or the 12th fret. Position the new one based on the slot - they may not be the same size. Protect the top of the guitar with some sort of heat resistant material - I simply cut out a bridge shaped hole in the middle of a piece of cardboard and wrapped in a couple of layers of aluminum foil. Put that around the bridge and gently apply heat - I use an industrial heat shrink gun with a nozzle that lets me focus the heat right on the bridge. I have two thin putty knives that I start working in from each side - assuming it was glued on with "normal" glues (hide, AR) it should pop off easily. If somebody used something weird (like epoxy, CA, gorilla glue...) you might get a lot of tear out of the spruce. You didn't ask about installing the new one, but a couple of tricks. Make sure every bit of the old glue is out of there (unless hide and you are gluing with hide). The tops of most "flat tops" are not truely flat - shape the bottom of your new bridge by putting sandpaper on the top and rubbing the bottom of the new blank on it. Unless you have exactly the same pin hole spacing, plug the holes in the top and bridgeplate with wood dowels - make them flush with the bottom of the bridge plate. Make a really good set of cauls for both the inside and the bridge itself and use three deep c-clamps to apply nice even pressure. Drill and ream the pinholes, make a new saddle, and enjoy. edit to add http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Luthier/Technique/Guitar/Bridges/ReglueBr/regluebr1.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mr.Soul Posted June 29, 2010 Author Members Share Posted June 29, 2010 You mentioned "weird glue". I was planning on using Gorrilla wood glue, is that a bad idea? I assumed since it was wood grade it would be fine, thats why I bought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Freeman Keller Posted June 29, 2010 Members Share Posted June 29, 2010 You mentioned "weird glue". I was planning on using Gorrilla wood glue, is that a bad idea? I assumed since it was wood grade it would be fine, thats why I bought it. I have no experience with Gorrill glue for guitar making - however I have used it for hard to glue things. It expands terribly and will squeeze out of the joint and probably be a mess to clean up. The usual glues used in instrument work are reversable for exactly the reason you are doing this project - sometimes you need to take the joint back apart. The very best is hot hide, but most of us don't want the hassle at home. Second is AR or "yellow" glue, with Titebond the common brand. It is very easy to clean up the squeeze out with either of those - just use a damp rag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.