Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted May 15, 2006 Moderators Share Posted May 15, 2006 I know a few of you out there have had these. Warmoth specify a hard finish for maple necks for warranty purposes. Anybody just used tung oil and had no problems? Anybody use tung oil and had problems? Wipe on poly....is thats olvent based or water based? Any other finishes easy to apply at home? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members guitarcapo Posted May 15, 2006 Members Share Posted May 15, 2006 Flake shellac dissolved in alchohol. wipe on. let dry. rub with 0000 steel wool. Best neck finish on the planet. Yea. it's a quilt maple neck. WTF is your problem with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted May 15, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 15, 2006 Hmmm, that is nice, did it change the wood colour slightly? I'd like to give the new maple a slightly vintagey look as its going on a 16 year old guitar. But that is nice, hehe shellac, the old finishes. And does that constitute a hard finish by Warmoth terms? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Stirt Posted May 15, 2006 Members Share Posted May 15, 2006 Warmoth does warranty the neck as long as you build enough Shellac up for decent protection. Shellac isn't a very durable finish. Tru-oil works well for a wipe on. Any Poly-urethane finish is good. Lacquers are good. Tung oil is a broad term usually indicating bad news for necks. Most don't harden up or don't harden up enough to protect the neck against moisture. Some are hydroscopic, actually drawing moisture into the neck out of the air. That's handy for wood. Gregg-Warmoth Guitar Products Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Ratae Corieltauvorum Posted May 15, 2006 Author Moderators Share Posted May 15, 2006 Originally posted by Stirt Warmoth does warranty the neck as long as you build enough Shellac up for decent protection. Shellac isn't a very durable finish. Tru-oil works well for a wipe on. Any Poly-urethane finish is good.Lacquers are good.Tung oil is a broad term usually indicating bad news for necks. Most don't harden up or don't harden up enough to protect the neck against moisture. Some are hydroscopic, actually drawing moisture into the neck out of the air. That's handy for wood.Gregg-Warmoth Guitar Products Aaaah Gregg old chap, problem is here in UK we dont have wipe on, apart from a Behlen Wipe on Urethane which is water based. Is your wipe on in the US solvent based? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Stirt Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Aaaah Gregg old chap, problem is here in UK we dont have wipe on, apart from a Behlen Wipe on Urethane which is water based. Is your wipe on in the US solvent based? Hey, who you calling old and chapped?! ....(kidding) Yes, it's mostly solvent based here though we still have brands of water based product trying to be as good. So the UK is not Solvent friendly or just wipe-onless? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 1, 2006 Share Posted June 1, 2006 Minwax wipe-on poly works great. Two or three coats is plenty enough to provide protection without affecting tone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Prages Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 I left both of my Warmoth necks completely raw...warranty be damned. One of them is 3 1/2 years old and the other is about 2. So far, I've had no problems out of either of them, other than the usual staining on the fretboard of unfinished maple necks. Knock on wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GTM Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Originally posted by GuitslingerTim Minwax wipe-on poly works great. Two or three coats is plenty enough to provide protection without affecting tone. I second that. I used it also on my Warmoth neck and I couldn't believe how easy it was and how good the results were. The neck looks pro. I put on about 4-5 coats. Goes on very easy, drys fast! I wouldn't expect that a water based finish is going to be durable or provide a good wood seal. It certainly won't darken the wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members satannica Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Originally posted by Stirt So the UK is not Solvent friendly or just wipe-onless? The UK is fairly restrictive when it comes to solvents. We had a big problem with solvent abuse here in the 80s/90s which means it is a problem to get. Some stuff you can get in the States you can't get here without some sort of chemical licencing. I can finish myself, but am interested to see what wipe ons are available. Things like Danish oil and Tiggy oil seem to be readily available, but they all work off of water-based oils rather than solvents. The Behlen Urethene I thought was garbage. It seemed to give the wood a real uneven tint. I finished an old shelf with it and it didn't do a great job at all. Tung oil is even not a very easy thing to get, at least in a pure form. Though check out the little hobby stores as they usually have things like alcohol and shellac for very not expensive prices, though I'll warn you to do all this in a well ventilated area. I did my first finish in my garage. When I got done, I went outside and felt like I was gonna collapse then and there! J. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members BootRoots Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Originally posted by Prages I left both of my Warmoth necks completely raw...warranty be damned. Ooooh, livin on the edge man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members lkbong Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Originally posted by GuitslingerTim Minwax wipe-on poly works great. Two or three coats is plenty enough to provide protection without affecting tone. I third it. Applies thin and easy to work with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members GTM Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Originally posted by satannica The Behlen Urethene I thought was garbage. It seemed to give the wood a real uneven tint. I finished an old shelf with it and it didn't do a great job at all.J. If I remember correctly even with the Minwax wipe-on, you had to use a primer/sealer first. If you used the Behlen and didn't use a primer/sealer I would expect you'd see an uneven tint (if that was the case). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Members Mac_C Posted June 1, 2006 Members Share Posted June 1, 2006 Ernie Ball Music Man used Birchwood-Casey Tru-Oil and Tru-Wax. You can go to their website and find out exactly what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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